final cut cafe

With regard to the Bogen background holder hooks, would I need cross-bars for muslin? I see on B&H under accessories for this item it lists cross-bars for paper backdrops only.

I have a spare bedroom I would like to convert into a studio for hobby and

experimentation purposes. I already have one black muslin backdrop and am

planning on getting more. I've seen on B&H studio lighting supports that include

a cross-bar and two light stands. I would like to have a cross-bar that supports

multiple muslins, but is mounted from the ceiling. So there would be no light

stands on the ground. Does such a boom/pole exist?

 

Thanks!

ok so I just found out elcocolor.com has a Durst Theta 76. Is that supposed to be better

than the Epsilon? I see we are moving down the Greek alphabet.

So why are Lambda and Lightjet prints considered superior to Frontier prints if the Lambda/Lightjet prints at a lower dpi than the Frontier?

I'm mostly concerned with the quality of the print at 254dpi. In the past I have used Ezprints and they take files at 300dpi. Are prints made on a Durst Epsilon at 254dpi inferior to Frontier prints at 300dpi?

254ppi? Why? All my files are saved at 300. What will happen if I change my files to 254 in Photoshop?

Thanks for the advice! I checked them out and their pricing seems very low. How is their quality and reliability? do you know if the ship large prints rolled up or flat? Their website says they use a Durst Epsilon. How different is this from a Durst Lambda?

I have some panoramic I would like to have printed on Kodak Metallic paper. I have found several labs

online that print on this paper, but my search for a lab that does panoramic on this paper has proven

difficult. I would like to print 12x48, 16x48 or even 19x72. Does anybody have any lab recomendations

that will print my panoramic on metallic paper, possibly by charging by the square foot?

hmm... I think I'm doing it a harder way. I'm working on each individual picture in

Lightroom, then exporting as TIFFs. This worked fine except for one night shot that had

multiple color-temperatures in the same scene and areas of near darkness.

 

With lightroom, I can save a Preset so remembering is not an issue. But creating 3 smaller

panos sounds like a great solution! Thanks! I'm excited again! i've been out of photography

for nearly 2 years and Lightroom has brought me back into it.

I have large panoramic images stitched and I would like to work on them in Lightroom because I have

some presets in there that I like and don't know how to replicate in Photoshop. When I try to import the

images into Lightroom, I get an error saying the images are too large. I did a little search and found out

Lightroom has a 10,000 pixel (width OR height) limitation. One of my images is 25,000 pixels in length.

Is there any way to get around this Lightroom limitation? Or, is there a way to transfer settings from a

Lightroom Preset to Photoshop CS2?

Alec,

 

Yes in deed, noise reduction was at 25. Is this good or bad?

ok problem solved! What I was doing is viewing the images in Lightroom, then opening the

RAW files up directly in Autopano and creating my panoramic. Then opening the big image

in Photoshop. With that workflow, I was seeing the hot pixels. I tried exporting from

Lightroom TIFFs and they all look clean! So I will send those TIFFs into Autopano.

sorry, I didn't read your entire response before I wrote my previous comments. I am in fact

viewing RAW images in Lightroom, then a TIFF in Photoshop. How can I keep the image

"mapped out" and export to TIFF or JPEG?

Yes, I did use a long exposure of 4 seconds, but I don't understand why they are not visible

in Adobe Lightroom. Well, they are while the image is loading, but after that the view is

clear at 1:1 without any hot pixels. The same image in Photoshop shows them at 100%.

How noticeable are hot pixels when printed on a Frontier or Lightjet system?

Thanks everyone for your comments. Everywhere I read (here and elsewhere), I seem to get

conflicting information. At Panoguide.com they write how Inkjet prints much quicker than

photographics prints. (http://www.panoguide.com/howto/display/printing.jsp) look at

bottom under "Durability of Inkjet Prints."

I have an image I wish to print, but at 100% view in Photoshop CS2, I see red and blue pixels scattered

throughout the image. When I load the exact same image in Adobe Lightroom, I only see those pixels for

the first two seconds while the image is loading, then they disappear. They don't disappear in

Photoshop, even if I move around in the picture.

 

Why is it I am seeing these pixels in Photoshop but not in Lightroom? Will these pixels be visible in my

final print?

I enjoy shooting landscapes and cityscapes at dusk or night where my only light source is the light from

buildings or street lamps. In the past I have always had enlargements made on Fuji Frontier systems.

Now I am planning on making some very large enlargements I wish to sell. I have heard that LightJet is

the grown-up Frontier. But then I've also been hearing about Giclee with pigmented inks. I have found a

lab that does both at similar pricing (pictureelement.com). They use an Epson 9800 with K3 pigmented

inks. Their LightJet prints com on either Pearl, Gloss or Fuji-Flex Polyester Supergloss paper.

 

When you have a print displayed on your wall, what is the visual difference between a LightJet print and

a Giclee print? Does one look more like a photograph and the other more like a painting? Does one offer

greater tonal range?

EZprints.com uses Fuji Crystal Archive paper on panoramic prints and they over 12" wide

prints. Does my file have enough resolution to be printed at 12x36 @ 300 dpi?

I have been using ArcSoft Panorama Maker 4 to stitch my panoramas together and I have been very

pleased with the results of the software thus far. I haven't printed anything outputted by this version of

the software, though I have printed numerous panoramas stitched in the older version 3.5 of the

software.

 

I just noticed that my images are outputted at 200dpi. I have opened my images in Photoshop and

confirmed there that they are 200dpi images.

 

How will this affect image quality when making prints on 300dpi printers? It's been about 2 years since I

last printed a panoramic print and I don't remember if I did anything in photoshop to convert my images

from 200 to 300dpi. What is the best workflow in Photoshop CS2 or Adobe Lightroom to make my

images [more than] suitable for printers that request 300dpi images?

 

The image I am testing out now is 10,020x3272@200dpi saved in uncompressed TIFF format.

I'm quite excited about my recent purchase of a Panasonic DMC-LX2. It should

arrive early next week. I was wondering if anyone knew of an underwater case for

the LX2?

Nels, do you know a reputable online source for purchasing the LX2 that has it in stock?

According to this site: http://panasonic.co.jp/pavc/global/lumix/lx2/specifications.html

 

the LX2 supports both SD, SDHC and MMC cards.

Thanks for your thoughts, Nels. I think I will hang on to my dSLR and purchase the LX2 as a travel/portable suplement. I plan to do mostly JPEG shooting with the LX2. Does the LX2 support regular SD cards? I want to use the Sandisk Extreme II 2GB SD card with it. I've been trying to buy it but everyone seems to have it on back-order today. The only guys who have it are on eBay and are shipping from Hong Kong. I live the US and want to buy it from here so that it comes with the USA warranty.

Vandit, I should add to my last message that I would be shooting in JPEG.

Vandit, thanks for post your review! You mention noise is not a problem with some post-processing. Lets say I take pictures to be printed at 4x6. At what point (and ISO) on those relatively small prints should I expect to see unpleasing noise with the LX1 or LX2 without any post-processing?