paul a. roid
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Posts posted by paul a. roid
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<p>thanks! that's what I thought, it looks just like the Kobalux... weird is that there is no brand name or serial number. anyways, I just tried it out with my M8 and it seems like a decent lens for what it is.</p>
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<p>hello all,<br>
a friend of mine gave me this 28mm f3.5 thread mount lens, which is unbranded - would one of you know what brand this is? Kobalux maybe?<br>
thanks in advance!<br>
Markus<br>
<img src="http://www.markushartel.com/Lens.jpg" alt="" /></p>
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<p>EEF is the best paper out there. period.</p>
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the new M-mount CV 21 f4 is significantly sharper than the screwmount version. I did a quick test at BH photo with the 21
f4.5 Biogon and find that the M mount CV is almost as good and significantly smaller and lighter.
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<i>I do hope Sigma or somebody can produce a digital equivalent of a Canonet G-III
QL17: big sensor, good fast lens, compact, full manual control, reasonably priced.
Theoretically, the Foveon sensor appeals to me. But the DP-1 does not look like the
real deal. Maximum aperture of f/4, bad noise above ISO 200, and that much
money?!</i>
<p>
<i>I've recently found the formerly very reliable dpreviews reviews not to be of the
caliber they used to be.</i>
<p>
they have slammed the GRD before and didn't consider it to what is is... a
photographer's camera catering to the original GR with a tiny sensor...
<p>
all things considered, smallish camera designs need to compromise something,
unfortunately... My main thing is street photography and I have used everything you
guys can imagine, Leicas, Canon EOS Elan/10D/5D, or a Rolleiflex on occasion and
the Ricoh GRD for a year and a half.
<p>
I also shot a Canonet QL17 for a while and not everything is candy, either. The
aperture and shutter controls are cluttered around the lens and are way too finicky
for serious work. The meter doesn't do more than ISO 800 (which doesn't matter to
me, since I can ignore it) - while the lens is fast it, lacks in the contrast department,
but I'm not bashing this sweet 30 year old cam from the yesteryears.
<p>
The GRD was a great deal to me, since it was the only small digital camera with
dedicated controls, just like a "big" camera. I've taken great shots during the past
1.5 years with it - mind you, I'm not a bokeh creeper nor a pixel peeper, even
though the results count and I'm not excluding good post-processing. The GRD did
good and I still have it.
<p>
Needless to say, I anticipated the DP1 ever since it was announced and finally got
my hands on it by the end of April. f4? seems to suck initially, but working the
streets I want to zone focus and f4 gives me sufficient depth-of-field for focusing
error to begin with. check.
<p>
autofocus on the DP1 is yucky, maybe worse than on the Ricoh, so I don't use it
with the DP1. The DP1's manual focus with its dedicated wheel beats Ricoh's snap
mode and is still not on par with a manual lens (I also use a Leica, but hell I'm not
spending 5k on a crippled M8) and I'm used to guessing the distance. The DP1 has
a focus wheel with distance indicator. check.
<p>
DP1's lens is ace, sharp, virtually no distortion, vignetting at f4 is negligible <p>
The DP1's image quality is outstanding at any given ISO in decent light - yes, I have
to shoot RAW in order to achieve the best image quality and it slows the camera
down. same with GRD. or shoot film. check.
<p>
In all honesty I used the GRD w/ jpg from day 2, since the RAW writing speeds were
so slow. The truth is that the GRD sensor/processing barely benefits from RAW. jpg
is faster here and I'm getting great results. period. check.
<p>
The ultimate gratitude -and grain of salt at the same time- is shooting the DP1 in
RAW mode (even more so than with a Bayer sensor, believe me). the grain of salt:
you'll need to process your images on your computer with Sigma Photo Pro, which
is obviously perfected for the Foveon sensor, but will take it's sweet time, even on a
fast computer (I'm using a 2x2.33GHz Mac), but the results will blow your mind.<p>
At first, you'll see the thumbnails in SPP and be surprised - low ISO images look
ace, but anything above 200 will make you ask "wtf!?" saturation sucks, sharpness
sucks - but once the Sigma software pulls it plugs on the RAW files, gets in gear,
and works its magic with your optional manual settings... the images don't look like
anything I've seen before from a pocketable digital camera ever. this thing is on par
with a crop DSLR from one generation ago (say EOS 10D). let alone scans from a
Canonet. check for image quality. uncheck for worflow.
<p>
just my 2c from a street photographer's view
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<p>I did a little tutorial <a href="http://www.markushartel.com/tutorials/photoshop/
nondestructive-dodgeburn.html">on non-destructive dodging/burning</a></p>
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I replaced the original screen in a 3.5E with a Beattie screen - wow! what a difference.
the image gets about 2 stops brighter!
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<p>check out <a href="http://www.hybridphoto.com/forums/showthread.php?
t=36">ChartThrob</a></p>
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thanks!<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mhartel/414829196/" title="Photo
Sharing"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/146/414829196_71ee56652a_o.jpg"
width="700" height="486" alt="Eastern" /></a><p>Leica M4 . 28mm C/V . Tri-X @1600 in
Diafine
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<img src="http://www.markushartel.com/blog/eastern.jpg" border="2"/><p>M4 . 28mm
C/V . Tri-X @1600 in Diafine
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mhartel/410803764/" title="Photo Sharing"><img
src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/177/410803764_9a4c51ecb3_o.jpg" width="700"
height="469" alt="34th&7th (Macy's Sport)" /></a><p>Leica M4 . 28mm C/V . Tri-X
@1600 in Diafine
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for caucasian skin the yellow should be 5%-10% higher than the magenta value, cyan should
<br>be 1/3 of the average of m&y. black should show in shadow areas only.<p>
asian skin naturally has higher y values and black skin can have more m, c and k
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it doesn't look like a flash was used at all... the image is desaturated, a vignette added (can
<br>also be done in ACR), for the rich blacks overlay or multiply a contrasty b/w version in a
<br>new layer...
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Adorama Rentals $200/day
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read the confessions of a camera addict..
<p>gearhead heaven... I think its a disease - I'm constantly selling gear to justify a new
purchase...</p>
<p>within the past few years I went trough two EOS 10D's and then caught the
rangefinder fever.<br>
After experimenting with a Bessa R I got an M6 TTL with a whole bunch of lenses
from<br />
15mm to 90mm. The highlight of geardom was a 90mm 'cron that I kept for 10 days
only.</p>
<p>I used the M6 with a 35 'cron and a 28 C/V the most, but felt that I need a medium
format camera<br />
and opted for a Rolleiflex, sure enough I upgraded it with a Beattie screen and
eventually sold it<br />
on ebay. The MF bug stuck with me for a while and I got a Mamiya 6 - it broke down
within<br />
two days and I rented a Mamiya 7 for a weekend - great cam, but its not for me. To
fill the Lomo <br />
spirit I used a Holga for a while, but ended up converting the lens for a digicam<br /
>
<br />
back to the M6 and a couple of point-and-shoots (Epson Stylus Epic & Canon
ML), I also used<br />
(and still own) a Canon AE-1 and a Horizon 202.<br />
<br />
Finally an affordable full frame digital became available with the EOS 5D and I
thought "I'm done" <br />
and got rid of the M6 (duh). A few months in I "needed" a portable digital
camera and invested in <br />
a Ricoh GR-D, which is great....<br />
<br />
Just recently I acquired a beautiful M4. That's it. I'm done... for real. yeah right..
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convert the photo to >Image > Mode> 8bit
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the 511px jpg is not much to work with, but here ya go...<br>
my attempt is always to <i>improve</i> not to <i>alter</i> the image<p>
1.) Shadow/Higlight filter to reveal higlight detail<br>
2.) Selective Color to push blacks<br>
3.) Contrast curve / mask out whites<br>
4.) lens blur on bg (mask out couple)<br>
5.) fill highlight over couple & curve to adjust tones<br>
6.) vignette image (curve &mask)<br>
7.) slight contrast curve on couple<br>
8.) highpass sharpen<br>
9.) tone highlights towards yellow (using blue curve)<div></div>
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the 50 1.4 is good for tight portraits (~80mm on the 30D)<p>
Sigma 24-70 2.8 is great, but huge & heavy and the AF motor is noisy/grinding - its the
<br>most flexible lens of the bunch<p>
I never used the Sigma 30 1.4, but the focal length is close to a normal 50mm - I'd go <br>
for it for its speed, if I needed it
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the Adorama adapter is of great quality @$49.95 - contact me if you want to buy mine (used)
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it sounds like you have a profile issue - the HP 8750 prints very accurate in color and
stellar<br>
in b/w. I usually keep my images in Adobe RGB and in CS2 let "printer determine colors"
<br>then I set the paper type and choose "Adobe RGB"
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any newer machine will outperform your laptop, but for OS/X and PS on a Mac, I'd strongly
<br>suggest 2GB of RAM. The OS needs room to "breathe" and PS is very memory hunrgy
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w/nw Pic of the Week # 36
in Leica and Rangefinders
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