photographicsafaris
-
Posts
479 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by photographicsafaris
-
-
http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00LxjX
I wrote my thoughts on one I brought, I think originally a Vivitar, that I got for peanuts. Its
great for working on the go. I just pop a card in once I have finished shooting and carry on
shooting to the next card.
However for a multi night trip away I would strongly lean towards a laptop such as the new
little macbooks. An alternative is the Asus eeepc with an external harddrive, but I feel that
this is emerging technology and you may as well wait for one with a bigger internal flash
hard drive and cheap price that can run some useful programs.
As for the Epsom and Canon storage devices, I cant help feeling that this is a good chunk
of cash towards a small laptop that has so many other benefits.
So unless you can get one cheap, head for the macbook route as it will give you email
skype and editing facilities. You could even string together a slide show in imovie, post it
to facebook and have your images criticised by friends and family before you get home.
My former business partner (photography) swore by the burn to DVD direct devices
Cheers G
-
Hi Mark
<br>Portraits... theres a good reason why the most used camera for wedding
photographers is the 5D. Essentially it is THE portrait camera.
<p>
<br>Canon 5d + 24-105 lens =$2750 new
<br>Canon 85 f1.8 = $430
<br>Canon 70-200 f2.8 is $1900
<br>3 x 4gb Sandisk ultra II 4GB cards $100
<br>Canon 550ex speedlight $200
<p>
Now that leans on your budget but more realistically addresses your needs
<br>If you can, get the 70-200 second hand, or even the 5D second hand from a
numptee "upgrading" the longest standing DSLR which has earned many photographers
their living...
<br>It will fall into your budget.
<p>You will need a tripod, buy a lightweight expensive one, it is worth it.
<br>This is an ideal high quality starter point
<p>
Cheers G
-
A> Robert, where specifically are you going it makes a difference?
B> What photographs are you aiming to come back with.
C> What animals are you interested in?
There are many different options around, but there is a classic shot of a photographer
cursing, because a Lion killed a zebra right in front of his car... he had a 500mm lens and
it was no use for that once in a life time opportunity. Whereas the 100-400 would have
been ideal.
For a much more detailed answer, feel free to email me personally
Cheers G
-
ISO 12800 (in 3 Mpixels) but none the less this would prove useful were you to need it.
<p>
The short lived F50 has been upgraded, with a very similar camera,
<p>
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0801/08012407fujif100fd.asp
<p>
Essentially:
<br>A very different lens, finally a sweeping landscape to long portrait lens.
<br>More capable ISO which will hopefully give a less noisy image than the F50, and more in line with
the F30
<br>The Flash has moved quite a bit, hopefully also more powerful in real world situations;a weakness
of the F50.
<br>The Battery remains the same, as does the screen at 2.7 inches
<br>There seems to be some confusion as to what modes it will have, as long as they stick with
manual I will be happy.
<p>
I have still not brought a compact Digital camera for myself yet, but narrowing it down quite rapidly
between this, and the Panasonic Lumix LX2 (or LX3 when it comes out)
I believe that I may have finally found my compact camera. I diddnt want the G9 or anything of that ilk,
because they are too big. I wanted a high quality pocket camera with full manual and suitable
underwater housing. Oh and it must be a bit of a tough camera and able to last being chucked around.
<br>The high ISO was always good, but the noise free image is what I am after and Fuji look to have a
winner in this market place.
<br>I also have a weary eye on the Olympus SW range, though I am not very fond of the image quality
from thae 45degree mirror lens design, these are supremely durable, but have no creative side (manual
control) which is more important to me.
<p>
The Fuji's negative side:
<br>A slower than previous lens, f3.3 wide, not f2.8
<br>Fuji still havent figured out that we do want RAW or at least Tiff.
<br>I miss that loooong battery life
<br>Whilst it doesnt bother me, a few will moan that there still isnt a viewfinder.
<br>Maybe they'll update the E900 (just after I buy the F100!).
<p>
Cheers G
-
My two pence.
<br>Midday sun Somewhere near the lower tropics. Hence very strong sun.
<p>
<br>Obviously polarised. No discernable Neutral density graduate filter.
<br>I think that this is a Long lens, possibly 300-400mm
<br>With a reasonable aperture of about f11-16.
<br>High shutterspeed to freeze movement.
<br>Probably centre weighted metering orientated towards the sand, and not Evaluative.
<br>Probably AV mode.
<br>ISO 100 maximum.
<br>Centre third of a landscape shot cropped.
<P>
I would like to think that this was shot with an XPan with 90mm lens, but probably not. If
so same settings but with Provia 100F slide film.
<p>
Cheers G
-
"YXTM C5DS" Batterygrip arrived today 7 days later, not bad service from Hong Kong
<p>
I was struck with just how much detail has been put into the generic grip. First impression
that has stayed with me, to give you an indication of the level of detail:
<p>
I found myself looking at the two buttons on the rear of the battery grip for Ae lock and
focus point selection button. One was considerably larger than the other, I thought thats
odd, then looked at my 5D and for the first time in two years noticed that the Ae lock
button is larger than the focus point selection button.
<p>
Well wrapped around the base and front of the grip there is a non slip rubberised finish,
not 100% the same as the 5D, the dimples seem to be a fraction smaller, its almost
unnoticeable but close as damn it... I found that this grip was very encouraging and sure.
<p>
On the end of the battery grip sort of through the door, there is a plastic spring loaded
detent that is designed to accomodate a mains lead attached to a battery for running off
the mains. Nice touch.
<p>
There is the port for storing the camera battery door hinge with a neoprene deadener to
prevent noise... just like the canon one.
<p>
The Battery door shuts securely and gives a feeling of confidence, on this subject, I got
two BP511 batteries thrown into the deal, and they are partially charged. They fit into a
tray which slides into the grip apparently you can expect 1100 shots with 50% falsh used (!
on a 5D?) in cold weather. You also get an AA battery holder, that according to the specs
will take 0 pictures in cold weather (!- Honesty wow) These battery holders do not feel
very strong, just merely adequate, so I will take a mental note not to stand on them empty!
<p>
On this topic, you get glossy A3 sheet of several language instructions, which doesnt
identify the red front clear cover but goes into detail about many uninteresting things.
<p>
I checked and the camera works with only one battery in the holder, and it doesnt matter
if is the front or rear compartment what this means to battery drain I have no idea.
<p>
The Shutter release button has a very distinct autofocus/fire seperation, much more so
than the EOS 5D, infact very much like the lower end canons (EOS rebel G/300 etc) Whilst I
dont personally find this perfect as it doesnt give a smooth transition to capturing images
at low light it is more than acceptable. Cold gloved hands will prefer it, so good to have
the two options.
<p>
The shutter speed wheel feels cheap and nasty. It does its job noisily and with very distinct
clicks. Likewise the on/off switch for the battery grip controls is a simple slide affair with
no detents, so it simply swivels around toa stop with no click. These in no way hinder the
performance.
<br>The grip also comes with an electrical connection protector plate, good touch to
prevent shorting when stored with batteries off the camera.
<p>
The Battery grips comes in an "imitation Canon" box, held in place with a formed plastic
holder, none of this Canon origami cardboard!
<p>
<p>
Negative coments,
<p>
The grip is sort of squareish, quite unlike the Minolta ergonomic marvels! But still very
hand holdable. The base is 70mm wide. and I guess this is canons design fault! They could
have improved.
<p>
The Tripod thread is about 1/2 a cm off centre towards the shutter button, not the end of
the world for me, but some may not be happy if their bracket is set up a certain way... drill
another hole. In fact with my bracket, this is a good thing.
<p>
The metal pin for the hand strap at the base of the camera grip looks like it may be a
potential weak point as I can see it extending beyond the groove where the strap threads
through, this is obviously made from several peices of plastic, so I dont know if this is a
true statement. But it does not flex when enthusiastically testing it...
<p>
I have no idea what the clear red lens in the front of the grip is for, and I havent seen it
light up, it also doesnt appear to have an led inside, so may be cosmetic.
<p>
The only connector to the camera is the screw thread and some tight alignment through
the battery port, but this is in keeping with the 10D grip, and not as secure as the EOS
1NRS (sort of) permenant built in grip. This is a canon fault not the grip's!
<p>
Being a pedantic git, I measured the distance from the centre of the set button in the
aperture (back) wheel to the edge of the batterygrip to compare it with the same distance
to the edge of the camera grip (over the memory door) as this is where the ergonomics of
Canon really come into play. When you rotate from Landscape to portrait, the controls
should fall exactly to place....
<br>They dont.
<p>
Well I cant coment on the original battery grip, but with this generic grip, in landscape
mode the horizontal distance from the centre of the set button to the edge of the hand
grip is 55mm.
<br>Now rotating to portrait this increases to 80mm. With a flash bracket, this makes it a
bit further away again.
<br>(My EOS 1NRS has 55mm in landscape and 70mm in portrait)
So people with smaller hands (or thumbs) may find this inconvenient.
<p>
<p>
Overall opinion: I've saved over 100 quid and got two free batteries, and I am damn happy
for it! I have wanted the portrait grip, as a greater percentage of my shots are in portrait,
so iam now happy that my job got a bit easier.
<br>Its really great to come across a good product at a bargain price. I will update this if I
come across any observations negative or otherwise.
<p>
Cheers G
-
Michael, thanks, I forgot that...
Michael, its the Crumpler bag called Brians Hot tub.
Frank, when you travel to someones home 45 miles away to shoot a portrait session you
dont fully know what you are going to have to take pictures of, and under what conditions,
hence taking a variety of gear.
What I have discovered is that if say i am just going to go to an heretpology park (Eg at
port Lymnph) i would take a smaller bag with the 5d, 100macro and my Mr14ex.
However I also find that it is good to have all your gear in an easy to grab in one ventilated
place, when the interior zip up compartment is locked up for storage purposes without
worrying about fungus.
I have fallen off my scrambler with the pack on, as I was photographing other bikers, and
somehow despite bent handle bars (600cc Yamaha tenere = hard fall) my gear was fine,
my helmet fine only my pride damaged.
No it is not terribly sensible to carry 20Kg's on your back on a motorcycle, but by the same
token motorcycling is not sensible either. I find that the saddlebags on my road bike get
filled with necessities, like lunch camping gear and clothes. For my overland trip I will be
getting a pelican topbox (less gear)
I have no problems with chiropractors, they on the whole seem to be great people, but I
have always carried my fair share around and will not be giving them any money in my
lifetime
I agree that life would be great with one camera one lens, but the 28-300 doesnt cut it for
me. If I did own a leica system I would struggle with my wildlife shots, and the macro
side...
My point was that there are times when you do want to cart around alot of gear, and for
those times I was singing the praises of my camera bag after 2 years of abuse I am
amazed at how much more you can fit in there!
People dont really take the crumpler bags seriously but they really are class.
-
Danny, my take on it is having at least one of the right fast lenses is absolutely
fundamental to wedding photography.
<p>
Ideally I would take three lenses to a wedding, 35 f1.4L- 50 f1.4- 85 1.8 or 135 f2
<br>Alternatively the 16-35 f2.8 instead of the 35 f1.4.
<br>I only own one of these lenses! Hence I compromise
<p>
I use the 17-40 f4, 28-70 f2.8, 100 f2.8 macro, a 50mm 1.4 and a 70-200 f4 (which I
rarely use during or after dusk.) I need faster on the long end urgently wide end can wait,
cos I use the larger depth of field.
<p>
I brought the macro thinking that it would do me fine for both macro and portrait, but in
truth I will buy a faster lens anyway, probably a 135 f2 this would be (just) more important
to me than the 70-200 f2.8 (because I have the f4)
<p>
Cheers G
-
That she has chosen to go Digital has no bearing upon your contract.
Its not as though film is obsolete. She has a contract (and duty of care) to be able to
reprint the pictures as long as the contract states. If she wishes to destroy them, then she
is in breach.
I would thank them for the offer of $700 to buy, but state that it is too expensive for you
at this point, would they consider $100? If they are threatening to destroy them, you shall
be contacting a solicitor regarding breach of contract.
I agree with may of the point above, both pro and con the sale of the negs, however I
stand behind it not being your problem that she has changed medium.
Good luck G
-
Suzanne I have sent you a personal question email seperately, but on this topic;
<p>
Having this kind of question fired at you should not make you think about it. The bride is
looking for surety that she will not have to run around looking for a photographer at the
last minute. I think her request for your back up plan is reasonable.
<p>
OR she could be one of those brides that you really wont benefit from and would be better
off turning her down.
<p>
On the Negative (Digital RAW) front make copies of RAW's and give these to the bride, with
restrictions alowing you to retain copyright for commercial gain and also for your
marketing purposes. Then if she wants copies outside of you she will have to get someone
to do the job properly.
<br>This covers another of her "security" concerns.
<p>
I feel that she may have chosen you because you were cheaper than the other
photographer, this may be because your price did not include negs.
<br>As for working out the cost of your negs. calculate how much youve made from your
best wedding.
<br>Because potentially this is what it is worth.
<p>
Cheers G
<p>
P.S. Steffi; chin up.
-
So many people offering your their sympathy and support, great community here.
<p>
What on earth caused you to lick your lens contacts? I struggle to comprehend the chain of
events leading to this, I mean what had you done prior to resorting to licking your camera
gear?
<p>
Imagine if you will, its all going pear shaped, at a jewish (highly strung emotional)
wedding, the photographer just lost about 5grands worth of camera gear and starts
licking the lens contacts... did he try bashing them first, or try swapping various batteries
around?
<br>With an abundance of vodka whisky or brandy around, not to mention tequila or gin
with lemons. The photographer undoes his camera gear then starts licking his lenses...
<p>
Man I would love to have seen that, Hee hee hee
<p>
Seriously YOU NEED the weather resistance of 1Ds cameras and you probably need to
spend some time looking after the gear that provides you with a living (prohibitive
maintainance)
<p>
What is it that they say? You wont live long enough to learn from your own mistakes, you
need to learn from the mistakes of others.
<p>
Cheers G
-
I am shooting the next wedding in a (rented) kilt, spurrun and scottish suit (I'm male).
Should be good for a laugh. Anything to get guests smiling.
I feel you have to be smart, as far as women go, 2 golden rules; dont look better than the
bride and dont match the brides maids.
Two pro wedding shooters I know (1 male, 1 female) both wore trousers and did not look
smart, I dont approve. Maybe they look like photographers so get away with it because
they are obviously not part of the guest list.
Cheers G
-
Depends what flash you are using.
with a 550ex, just setting the flash into manual mode disposes of the preflash, so that
should do the trick. You may want to consider setting it to second curtain sync on flash,
not on camera, as with the 550ex, the Canon 5D doesnt want to control the flash
curtain....
You could also try flash exposure lock, waiting for your main to recharge before second
firing.
Basically you will always have two exposure if you are using ettl flash exposure, asopposed
to Attl, or manual.
Cheers G
-
You know I resized it to 45mb and 510 wide.... what gives?
<p>
Anyway, to continue There are 5 main features to this bag that make it stound out from
the crowd.
<p>1> Such as its waterproofness, I use mine on my motorbike and can attest to its
never yet having got my camera gear wet, and I have ridden through alot of rain (never
with the bag through a storm yet) But also hiked around and up Mt Snowdon for three
days without a drop of water ingress and Wales is wet.
<p>2>The fact that taking it off to open it you dont have to lie the part against your
back, on the ground is great, particularly in Africa with the paper thorns, which you always
overlook, and those four sided star thorns. This is a god send. Also the back padding is an
inch thick, very breathable and has an air channel, Ideal for when you run up Mt Longanot
with all your gear, it efficiently reduces perspiration.
In short the Rucksac is very comfortable, long lasting and the ergonomics are great.
<p>3>The external straps to accommodate other bags, one on the shoulder is ideal for a
small bag to hold a point and shoot camera, for quick snaps, Currently I put my wifes little
Nikon P2 inside a tamrac bag there (this however is not waterproof as I discovered on
Snowdon) Then there is the side straps for the tripod, one leg through the top strap and
all three legs through the bottom strap.
On a Motor bike I strap the two tripods across the back seat and put my mono pod in the
bag loops with no external attachments of locks and as yet it has not fallen through or
given me any problems at all.
Lastly I have a film holder to accommodate two extra films on the bottom of one of the
shoulder strap.
<p>4> The ability to use it as an all in one Digital Camera bag complete with 17 inch
Laptop*
<p>5>Oh and the best feature, it can swallow all your gear and be taken out of the bag
to have a breathable holder for your camera equipment without the worries of stuffiness
and lack of ventilation, I find this inner bag feature indispensable.
<p>
As a side note here, I find the 70-200 a much better lens for walking through the bush in
Africa than the 100-400, but obviously the 100-400 is better when you are in a vehicle.
<br>On these walks, such as my favourite two day walkies in Tsavo East I only take the
70-200f4 lens with one body.
<p>If you need wider; whatever you are photographing is way too close, and you should
already be climbing a tree, if its too far away you are safe to be climbing out the tree.
<p>
Thats it all packed in, but note that EOS1Nrs is the same size as an EOS 1D series digital
full size camera, But I doubt you would be able to get 2 1D sized bodies in... Well I couldnt
afford 2 anyway!
<p>
When putting it all back, with the Cokin filter holder underneath the 28-70 lens I noticed
that there was already 2 rolls of film here I had forgotten about. I usually scatter two rolls
of film under the 50mm lens (top right corner) and two more next to the 100macro lens.
That gives me 6 rolls of film inside the bag, as well as 2 in the bodies 2 on the strap, and
then I carry another 10 in a lead film pouch seperately.
<p>
There is a pocket on the back that has nothing in it, and this is where my passport, tickets
and paperback book go. There is still room in the bottom rear pocket for a bunch more AA
batteries and also in the side pocket for a four more films but I usually dont put films on
the outside of the bag in case they get squished.
<p>
So here is a picture of my camera bag with all the gear in it and zipped up inside the
second bag.
-
Let me start by concluding: I am in awe of this bag, and after two years of use it has become more
useful.
<p>
This is a list of gear together with a photograph of how much stuff goes into the bag. My main use for
"Brians Hottub" is predominantly for the transport of the majority of my gear on my person either on
my mortorbike when going to weddings or portrait sessions or as my Airline carry on bag. When they
give me hassle with weight allowances, I just put the large body and lens around my neck, put another
body and lens into a "duty free" plastic bag and job done... I will never understand airline luggage
allowances!
<br>The tripod travels in the hold. When flying I choose between my 70-200f4 and the 100-400, as I
normally cant justify carrying both.
<p>
<br>List of gear in the Bag:
<br>Canon EOS 1Nrs
<br>Canon EOS 3
<br>Canon EOS 5D
<br>Canon 17-40 f4L
<br>Canon 28-70 f2.8L
<br>Canon 70-200 f4L or 100-400L with lens hoods
<br>Canon 50 f1.4
<br>Canon 100 f2.8 Macro
<br>Canon 1.4x extender
<br>Canon remote release
<br>3x BP511 batteries
<br>Canon LC4 wireless release with adapter for EOS 5D & 3
<br>Canon 550ex flat under 70-200 lens
<br>Canon 550ex folded
<br>Canon Flash foot
<br>Quantum battery pack with battery adapter
<br>Flash bracket with off camera flash cord Home made
<br>Portraflash 5in1 reflector
<br>Portraflash umbrella silver/white
<br>Portfraflash swivel mount umbrella head
<br>Omni bounce flash diffuser
<br>Hotshoe spirit level
<br>4x AA spare batteries
<br>1 CR5 spare battery
<br>Cokin P series mount
<br>Cokin Graduate Neutral density filter
<br>Step up rings 67-72, & 72-77
<br>Moose 77mm Warm Circular polariser
<br>Manfrotto Tripod and 141 head
<br>Manfrotto Super clamp
<br>Generic ball head
<br>1Gb Compact flash High speed
<br>2GB Microdrive
<br>4Gb Compact flash slow speed
<br>20Gb Premier (Vivitar) Portable media player/ photo storage (can also record video and store for
flights also has radio)
<br>-----------------------------------
<br>Total Weight: 18kg (39lbs)
<p>
And what does it all look like spread out?<P>
<center><img src=http://www.photo.net/bboard/uploaded-file?bboard_upload_id=41113984></center>
-
As a MAC fan this galls to say, but they are taking the piss!
Sure its beautiful and designed as a second and back up to an iMac or a Mac Pro. The one
that you take ot the office and use for presentations, in this regard not a bad idea...
But for more than the cost of a macbook? what are they nuts.
Good to see prudent use of future technology, but this is Asus eee PC territory all the way,
with an external drive or a handful of 16GB SD cards.
Cheers G
-
Snow on Christmas eve??? in ENGLAND Where are you getting this "snow" from?
<p>
If there is Snow, it opens up huge potential for bouncing off the snow outside, it could be
interesting.
<p>
It sounds like your budget is restricted, equipment-wise
<p>
I would suggest that you recruit and practice with at least one assistant (holding) a
reflector, then reflecting the on camera flash off a portable reflector, then the other
bouncing off a larger umbrella on a tripod.
<p>
Use the reflector to "aim" the light for the target, use the Umbrella for the best ambient
fill, set oppostite anything that could bounce the light.
<br>Use a slower shutter speed to capture as much ambient as possible then rely upon
the flash for the fill and freeze.
<p>
Use fast lenses, that are financially viable for you.
-
You have to hand it to Nikon with their D3 and a few of their lenses:
<p>
However the D3 doesnt have dust reduction, what were Nikon thinking? Oh and its lacking
a bunch of professional pixels:
<br>Roll on the D4
<p>
The 14-24, 105VR macro, 200-400 and 1.7 extender are hall marks of Nikon's influence
as a manufacturer who listens to and develops to their clients needs.
<p>
Sony too are making some major competitve inroads into the market. They have a point to
prove, and off the back of the Minolta platform with Zeiss lenses their first full-frame is
set to be quite something.
<p>
Cheers G
-
Throwing in some extra coments here, the Dynax 9 is a bulletproof camera, and Sony will
eventually have a full frame sensor. So buying one now could be a great idea, as their
vaule may actually go up.
It comes with a top shutter speed of 1/12000th and also has an integrated flash...
Neither Canon nor Nikon has achieved this level. Plus nobody makes a hand grip quite like
the Minolta Dynax9, its an ergonomic wonder.
enjoy. G
-
Keep the Mamiya 7
-
There is no benefit to you buying this lens in the UK. If you insist on spending forex,
rather buy it in USA, where it is much cheaper.
To you, irrespective of where you (being in India) are buying it, if you have an issue you
will have problems experiencing after sales support because the warranty for labour will
only be honored for service in the country of origin.
The manufactures warranty will be valid for parts only but no Indian store will send it off
to Canon for you, they will charge a fee.
Maybe consider buying from one of the ebay HongKong stores on ebay.com or ebay.co.uk
and have them send it to the UK. As at least here you MAY experience good service with
low prices.
G
-
Hi John,
<p>
If you can sneek in a battery grip, get the PB-E2, and not the PB-E1. You will appreciate it
immensley, particularly if you buy the expensive NiMh batteries.
<p>
I am just re-reporting regarding the Autofocus as it really did surprise me alot.
<p>
With an f2.8 lens the EOS 3 came into its own acheiving quicker focus lock, or rather
snapping into focus when using the centre spot. Whereas the EOS 5D was mildly slower.
<p>
I also realised that when focusing, if you focus the lens over anything verticle there wasnt
much difference between the EOS3 and 5D, but over a horizontal line the EOS 3 focused
much quicker... I guess it comes down to reading the manual.
<p>
I will stand behind my observation that the Autofocus system in testing is more accurate
with the 5D than the EOS 3 but I am happier with the EOS3's focusing in real life situations.
<p>
Again I was surprised. If you hang on a while the 5D prices will come down, or even get
the Mk2 version but to be honest with you, considering that your wife comes from a Nikon
camp, I would be seriously tempted by that Nikon D3 and a F6.... at this stage in the
game.
<p>
I crossed over from a Nikon F4 to an EOS 3 when I was going to upgrade to the F5, and
have not looked back, as Canon were deffinetly ahead in the game. I borrowed an F5 and
shot a roll of film, then borrowed an EOS3 and shot another roll of film. I couldnt believe
the difference, so many more shots in focus, I guess it was proof in the pudding
<br>I have been very happy, with only one niggling doubt, I wish I could use my lenses on
my Nikon FM2, that would make me a very happy man.
<p>
Oh and of course if I could have film back to accomodate 250 shot bulk film like the f4 has
and also imprint the data between the leaders for each shot on the EOS 3... but that day
has passed, and I never brought that back for the F4 anyway!
<p>
Cheers G
-
Thanks for the responses.
<p>
The reference to f4 and f5.6 was to the lenses that I used for them, They were 300 f4 and
a 70-200 f4 with 1.4 extender, Hence needing something faster, but maybe shorter.
<p>
As I said the 200 f1.8 (or f2) is the answer, but unaffordable.
<p>Yes I still push E200 to ISO 800 and am happy with the results, in fact last time I was
in the Mara, I think I was the only person photographing a leopard with film, every one
looked over when they heard the EOS 3 rewinding!
<p>
Alan, happy to take you to Lions, Yep you would have to fork out for the flights and
accommodation. But hey you have both the 300 f2.8 and a 500 f4... That is what they were
concieved to be doing. Perhaps you would be interested in joining for a walkies up kili in
2010 - plenty of time to train (wallet and legs)?
<br>I have found that at one particular campsite we have had Lions swatting the shadows
on the sides of the tents at night, at another I've had crocodiles lying against the sides of
the tent sharing your warmth...
<br>So on those occasional rare instances distance is not an issue, however at 05:00hrs
light is.
<p>
The other reason is I tend to end up around a campfire with a bunch of tourists and festive
Samburu, and currently the only lens I use is the 50mm 1.4, so was looking for something
I could use here, needs to be fast. Oh and also for those weddings
<p>
I would not for this purpose be adding on a 1.4 extender. I am sort of fixed on the 135L
but I will get an 85 1.8 to see how it goes, as it represents about 5% of the time I would
use it, it doesnt makes sense to throw cash its way.
<p>
I am not a fan of 1.6 crop sensors, I have found that you loose the depth of field through
aperture, its a dirty argument so I'll stay away from it. Suffice to say that I will stick with
the 5D and film bodies.
<p>
As for enjoying the moment, I only put the camera down when its time to run like hell for
the nearest tree!
<p>
Another toy that I want to put to good use is a remote trigger for close up night shots,
such as where they bait leopards (I know a few great places) like with a 17mm lens near a
sheeps carcass up a tree!
<p>
Cheers G
-
Marc,
<br>Primarily, because of the chosen charateristics of each lens's focal length. The three
you have mentioned are actually excellent lenses (except the 400's speed) and almost have
a single specific purpose
<p>Each focal length has a desired effect upon the picture in addition to these qualities
below:
<br>Current price compared to the zoom, or faster lens
<br>Future resale value
<br>Dust ingress over time
<br>Quality
<p>
Ironically I sold my two 300mm prime, when I brought the 100-400 zoom which is very
very good, because I wasnt using them enough to justify holding onto them (f4 and f2.8
Sigma's) HAd I forked out 3000 quid might be a different story.
<br>Having said that I want the 135L f2. I would use it with the 1.4x to get a 200 f2.8
lens, additionally I want an 85mm f1.8 yet I have a 28-70L, the 100macro, 70-200 f4 and
a 100-400L covering this range with some fast apertures, f2.8.
<p>
Having a zoom can be viewed two ways, in a pinch it gets you out of a bind if you cant get
closer or further away, you can at least get that shot.
<br>On the other hand, having a prime forces you to move a bit and possibly think about
things more maybe leading to getting a better angle, because you are forced to find a
different position
<p>
Its like golf, you could take an entire suite of 18 clubs, but to shoot your handicap, you
should be able to hit it regularly with only 5 clubs.
<br>On a safari, you could get away with the 200mm f2.8 and a 1.4x extender with a
28mm wide. But you'd want more choices because getting out the car to walk closer to
those lions....
<p>
Cheers G
Buy a Fuji E900 or F30? Which one?
in Mirrorless Digital Cameras
Posted
Hi all,
After a load of research I have come to the conclusion that I am going to buy one of these two cameras,
my first digital compact... Third choice was the Ricoh Gx100 but too expensive for what I would use it
for. I have no issues with the XD cards.
Please give me your opinions as to which of these two to get (new in 2008) for a compact go
everywhere camera? Fuji have recently released a load of them and are selling like hot cakes for 60-75
quid.
I have an EOS 5D and still use film including a 4x5 view camera, but want a camera for taking with me
everywhere. At the moment I am still using a Yashica Electro 35 for a "compact", so I want/need some
control and something that will fit into my jacket pocket. I would use it almost exclusively in Aperture
priority mode. So the little scene modes are of no use to me.
It would spend most of its life inside my jacket pocket, that way when I take wifey out to dinner, I can
take a camera with me without getting up-hill.
Quite frankly I am leaning towards the E900 because it has the pixel advantage and the ability to shoot
in RAW (slowly) and (eventually) convert to TIFF and it has full manual control.
I will be getting an underwater housing for the camera as well, because I want to phase out my Nikonos
V. This is a by the by note for anyone with an underwater opinion. (I would use it at ISO 100
underwater) The "negative" of the E900 is that I have to get the Ikelite housing but at least it goes down
to 60. But underwater I prefer shooting video
The saving grace of the F30 is its high ISO ability which has appeal and lithium battery. these are not
deal breakers. A long lasting camera is far more important to me.
Urgent help needed.
Thanks Graham