photographicsafaris

August 17, 2013

I have the GX1 with the Panasonic's diminutive 14mm f2.5, 20mm f1.7, Olympus 45mm f1.8 prime lenses.

This covers 28mm 40mm and 90mm focal length ranges. This is the smallest arrangement you can get to take quality pictures in an interchangeable lens system. With these lenses you can use any one of the panasonic or Olympus cameras. The New GX7 looks awesome

Oh and I also have the Olympus 9-18 zoom Which is fantastic

I also have the tiny 14-42mm x range zoom lens, which makes this a great all rounder for good light conditions. I rarely use it as I cant abide the power zoom thing! I prefer the the Olympus 42mm lens although not stabilised and not as sharp.

In the 300mm range there are options, but I dont think the system is geared towards telephoto options. The 100-300mm panasonic is awesome, slow but a pocket sized 600 f5.6 is unique. The Olympus 75mm f1.8 is also awesome.

http://www.four-thirds.org/en/microft/lens_chart.html They have a range of 42 lenses but only a handful of awesome glass.

I would look into the Go Pro hero 3 so much more versatility or the latest ruggedised camera not an interchangeable option

August 29, 2012

I ended up getting the 1Dmkiii - love it, I am a little peeved by the meagre 10 Mpixels, and have my sights on the 1Ds3 when I get some other things sorted out, to replace this 1D3, but resale values are poor so may keep it.

The files sizes above 16 mplxels are prohibitive and will require a new computer to adequately handle them. As it is I am frustrated with the filing of my digital files currently i have no idea how to manage 10 years shooting at 20 mpixels.

Found the Autofocus needs lots of playing with to understand, and then set up to a specific situation. Shooting in varying terrain, such as thick bush / long grass and then to open skies and birdlife, I would benefit from altering the focus system. in practical terms this was frustrating with three differing terrains a day, and changing on the hop. I can see how this camera was designed almost specifically for shooting sporting events such as the Olympics, where it could be set up differently for hurdlers, swimmers, high / long jumpers, and finally sprinters where you have lots of time to set it up at the event.

The 1Dx really does seem to be the canon piece de resistance for my personal forseable future needs. But professionally the Nikon D800 and forthcoming D4s or D5 set to eclipse Canon altogether, But I have no intention of storing those files!

August 14, 2012

Ok so Back after a successful Summit and thought I would update what worked and what diddnt for anyone else trying something similar. Utterly utterly awesome, and I will go back and do it again.

Apparently I am considerably fitter than I thought. Who knew! Not one little problem or issue, but I attribute that to acclimatising by camping for a week before hand in Kenya. everyone else flew in from sea level and suffered terribly!

The jury is still out as to whether Diamox is good for you or just reduces altitude sickness and causes general discomfort - Who knows, but everyone in our group stopped taking Diamox for the last 48 hours before summiting and felt better 6 hours after stopping treatment.

Go Pro HD2 is awesome - Just got to figure out your own way to charge the batteries (I successfully ish used the freeloader pro with globe trotter kit) The time lapse function is actually very very good. I used the LCD display for framing and switched it off after 3 seconds of recording lto conserve battery and just left it on a Gorilla pod on the floor as people walked past.

The Panasonic GX1 I kept in an ever ready case around my neck and then clipped to a D ring on my shoulder strap to take the strain(!) off my neck. I kept spare lenses in neoprene pouches on other D rings off my rucksac. By doing this I never had a problem

I took the 20mm 14mm and 9-18mm lenses, and wished I had the 45mm out there with me. next time I may even (begrudgingly because it would only be for about 4 shots) take the 45-200 as well

By far the most used combination was the 9-18mm lens and seconded with the 20mm lens. i did not find an occasion to use the 14mm with its 2.5 aperture other than the summit night (diddnt get anything worth keeping, too tired too cold too sleepy). and then on the summit itself, where I couldnt be bothered to take off gloves to change lenses. Mind you I dont have any regrets about using this lens either though!

the Olympus Mku 11 with its 35mm f2.8 lens is awesome, but I did not use it enough.

Luckily i lost the magnetic tripod mount adapters, in the Maasai mara before hand so did not take the tripod up the mountain. though i still want to.

I did use the poles and will do again, thought almost only for the downhllls

May 23, 2012

Watching with interest - I'm upgrading a 5D to either a 1Ds mkii or a 1D mkiii Dont know which.

I wouldnt go to the 5D iii as too much of a compromise as a compact camera, when there are much more compact system cameras for an everyday solution. and less of a compromise

May 23, 2012

I am in a similar boat and am looking for ideas too. I have the 100-400 and a 17-40 I am taking these two lenses to the Maasai mara, and only these two lenses with my canon gear - An EOS 1nRS and an EOS 5D

Now it has dawned on me that I could pretty much buy either an EOS 1Ds mkii or a 1D mk iii - instead of taking the 5D (I have used my 5D original for 5 previous trips) Which of these two (three) bodies would everyone take?

February 9, 2012

Absolutely not worth repairing the quoted minimum repair labour cost is more than the price of a USED EOS 3 in mint condition 2nd hand. It would barely be more than the insurance excess - but then you get a new Camera.

Bin it and buy a new second hand one... or two!

As for rugged - there is nothing that will resist a leaking battery.

December 27, 2011

use film.

December 10, 2011

The difference between these two boils down to your need to shoot wide open in lower light conditions. Effectively the depth of field in-focus is pretty much the same for both cameras beyond f6.3 ie everything in focus.

So if you shoot in low light, upgrade - if not stick with the f4.

The other difference is vignetting - they are both the same as each other in their respective wide open positions - just on the 16-35 it has pretty much been eradicated by f4.

If you shoot exclusively at f8 then its not money well spent

November 23, 2011

Guys thanks for the Responses.

Richard - have we met? You seem to know me and have hit the nail on the head that interview would appeal to me!

"Kilimanjaro - its predominantly uphill till you get to the top, then it all changes and is sort of down hill to the bottom!"

Tim - Very astute of you to have recognised my masterplan - Sheer will power mixed with a smattering of ignorance, and if that fails a miracle seems the most sensible idea.

Jos - funny how 10 years later I am still planning to take the exact same camera with me as a backup!

I am very appreciative of all the advice, I was however looking for specific advice from People who have climbed Kili previously - I am perfectly happy with handling my equipment...

And yes Porters are there by the dozen - Unlike Everest we dont take goats up, we have an abundance of willing hands - Hopefully we dont eat them, like the Himilayan Hikers eat their goat porters.

Can anyone clarify this, because I am not a squeemish eater, but I should imagine that eating the porters is likely to cause unrest.

The Choice of a Panasonic GF1 with 14, 20 and 45mm lenses together with the tripod can be seen in the attached photo - it is surprisingly small and suitably light.

I weighed My Old nikon FM2 with the 35mm f2 lens - 2.9lbs

The Panasonic GF1, 14mm f 2.5, 20mm f1.7, 14-42 zoom Timers, Polariser filter and lens shade including 2 batteries. - 2.9lbs

As for the Altitude thing I am comprehensively happy with the prospects and will proceed with the following Kiswahilli mission statement:

"Pole-pole; haraka, haraka heina baraka" which roughly means "Go slowly, dont hurry to your death" Having been raised in Kenya and travelled extensively throughout South and Eastern Kenya through my 20 years including driving past Kilimanjaro for 4 years between Nairobi and Cape Town, I am pperfectly happy with an extreme environment.

As for the clothing requirements - hitting the MOD surplus stores - if its good enough for a squaddie in Norway its more than sufficient for me everything will be old tech. Though I do plan to replace my old hiking boots with a newer pair.

On the training front 11 miles walk home (Yes yes at sea level) alternating, two and then three times a week should help me a bit.

Its a 6 night trip, so I should acclimatise in my own time.

Anyone? Any take on Alpine photography for the most desired lens / focal length?

Anyone? Should I focus on getting the 9-18mm (Equivalent to 18-36 in 35mm terms)?

Joseph - Sorry chap, but I really couldnt justify a compromise bridge camera - However I am thinking about poles - in my experience they are too serious and get in the way of the photography. But I am interested in a hiking pole/monopod which would be one of the tri pods legs - need to work on it.

Oh and I have already arranged the tour - no idea who its with though.<div></div>

November 22, 2011

Life long dream and "bucket list" moment... Taa daaa!

I am going to be climbing Mt Kilimanjaro

Excitement ramped up nearly as much as the outflow of cash from my bank account, and I am not adding it all up, just paying out cash lumps sums here and there its all too fiscally painful.

There are a few things that I am realising

1> I am not going to every add up how much this cost, and I really dont think that I can afford it given a 6 month timescale - yayy credit!

2> Its nearly 6 kilometers high - thats a very long way, and I am absolutely not fit enough to do it, and with working like a whipped slave to pay for it, dont really know how I will get fit enough... catch 22. (ignorance is bliss is my only option here)

3> and probably most key - I am daunted by the task of obtaining great pictures and documenting the trip, my 32 year ambition is coming to fruition and I want to do it justice. I first Saw Kili when i was 6, I remember that time and I have though about it nearly every single day since.

So I need mountaineer photographer's help please, cos I just dont want to cock it up - 6 months is too short a time to prepare.

I Shoot RAW and almost exclusively in Manual mode - I need to start using Aperture priority and exposure compensation for when I slow down as we get higher and I get thicker (think baboon with a calculator).

I have decided to take a GF1 with 14mm f2.5 and 20mm f1.7 lens and probably get and take the Oly 45 f1.8.

A tripod Velbon Luxfi awesome stuff - just need a smaller ball head. (manfrotto 484 rc2)

An intervalometer, if the brain still works it will be fun to play with it and get some long exposures.

I am looking for scenic shots with people in to emphasise the context any ideas gratefully received.

Polarising filter

Also an Olympus mju2 35mm f2.8 with 2 rolls of E200 and a couple of batteries

Three spare Batteries - its 7 days, I will save one specifically for the last nights walk

QUESTION 1>

Do I need the 45-200 for mountains, specifically this trip - will I have the energy to carry it or do I want anything wider? But that might end up as being a toss up between the 9-18 olympus or food for the next 6 months

I have a very respectable compliment of canon gear but this is an in-and-out job, no wildlife, if it were, I know that story backwards and it doesnt involve the Panasonic at all.

QUESTION 2>

Do I need to take an external flash - I have some off camera radio triggers which I would love to use, but dont know how practical it is. I had ambitions of off flash side lighting.

QUESTION 3>

What do I do to protect the camera from the condensation, in practical terms? if I keep it warm inside the tent at night I will do the ziplock bag trick, but when walking I would keep it outside my jacket so that is ambient temperature.

I did a snow hike last winter and I had a couple of freezing condensation moments. - What does every one do?

QUESTION 4>

Most seriously for the last push, that midnight departure, arrive at 06:30 (We have picked a month where the moon sets at 24:00 humphh) What focal length do I take?

Do I take the tripod?

Any suggestions as to what shots I can arrange for this particular section - I want to document it, and the best I can come up with is faces illuminated by their head torches with a blip of flash, manually exposing as quickly as possible on bulb, covering with a dark cloth and then long exposure once they have walked off... at 18500ft asl, hmmmm - i cant see that going well!

QUESTION 5>

and for the obligatory Uhuru shot (assuming I am not dead) anyone got an idea that is more that the typical posed group "we-did-it?" (I was going for a self portrait buck naked shot - but it wouldnt be pretty, technical or terribly smart, and nudity is illegal in Tanzania, but thats just me)

LASTLY

anyone anything to add about anything I would be grateful to hear.

Thanks

G

November 22, 2011

if you want to do Kenya / tanzania well use a company located in that country, anyone based outside that country is merely taking a commission.

In truth it depends what you really want, and the better quality companies have a marketing season where they travel to the states.

Budgets can be very varied from US $50 a day to US$700 a day per person and thats not the top tier by any stretch of the imagination. What you do get as you pay more is access to more privacy and comfort and an increasingly personal experience.

November 22, 2011

Get the 100-400 it basically is the Masaai mara lens. alternatively a 300mm prime makes a good compromise, If I were allowed only the one focal length it would be 300. the f4 with the 1.4 extender is still totally acceptable given most situations, and probably as good as the 100-400, with the same aperture.

I have shot with all three lenses and get frustrated with the fact I cant justify a selfish trip dedicated to photography when I can take all my gear and have to make a compromise.

Once the 70-200 f4 with a 1.4x

Once a 300 with the 1.4x

and now I am settled on the 100-400 (and I take the 1.4)

these are my observations of the 100-400 in practice:

http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00LiDj

Regretfully it would replace the 70-200 most of the time, and I say regretfully as the quality is simply not as good within the 70-200 range, but as good as or if not better when adding the 2x extender.

the benefit of the faster 2.8 lens is negated with the exception of a 25 minute window twice a day during sunrise and sunset unless its rainy season.

However this window is difficult to use as we are talking about getting out to the shooting experience at 06:30 so leaving camp to find game at 05:00 when youre not allowed to travel within the park...

If you do get an opportunity I throughly recommend the Talek gate area where most of the Big cat diary is filmed. you can also travel around "cough outside cough" the reserve before dawn in masaai land and then cross the talek into the reserve into the park at "cough 06:00 cough" your honor...

Never underestimate the 17-40 on the 5d either

February 11, 2011

The Nikon 200-400 was a big draw card for me to switch back to Nikon from Canon, however now Canon have the the equivalent, its only the 1.7 extender that separates these two brands, and that's not worth switching for

However given the likely cost, a 300 f2.8L with my 1.4x and a 2x extender would be a higher quality less versatile (probably cheeper) solution, also keeping my 100-400. But the 200-400 is a better safari lens.

Hats off to Canon for making this much needed lens - and the internal extender is a fantastic idea, particularly considering the lens is weather resistant and you can add an extender without exposing the sensor to dust - awesome versatility for practical use in the field

As anyone who uses an extender will tell you, this integration is a brilliant (though expensive) idea

February 11, 2011

If you have and are using a C220, and have an F4 with an F3 background, I would say that you dont need a D700 book, you need a Lightroom or Photoshop book. Because I doubt that there is much a D700 book can teach you that isnt already in the manual.

A DSLR has 4 variables - 1> Aperture, 2>Shutter speed and 3> ISO (which you should be familiar with) these dont change. 4> Jpeg processing.

Jpeg processing is kind of like shooting transparencies there is limited leeway once the picture has been taken and this is (designed to be) the final result. Negatives are kind of like RAW images - there are post processing opportunities to bring the most out of the image.

That is of course utterly incorrect from a technical point of view, but, I feel is a good way of explaining DSLR differences to film users. (Yes, the irony that the results from Transparency film are better than those from negative's is not wasted on me.)

November 22, 2010

I am in a similar boat, alot of your choice will only come after hands on with the individual cameras - I handled the EPL-1 and simply could not get along with it at all. I want the smallest form factor suitable and have headed down the GF1 road. I believe that the GF2 is possibly a better option for its higher resolution Video and smaller size.

I found that the Olympus focusing system was ludicrously slow, but did speed up with Panasonic lenses... and the panasonic was slightly slower with the Olympus lenses (but faster than the Olympus with panasonic lenses).

After that test I decided to get the small Olympus zoom lens for its compact size, as this is my primary requirement - compact camera for walking. Next on my list is the 20mm and then the 9-18 and 100-300.

For all the moaning about the GF2 I have no gripes and mostly use Manual mode - so I am catered for with a scroll wheel by the thumb. My real kicker was the lack of support for (electronic) cable release, and hence heading down the GF1 road (otherwise I would have gone for a GF2).

As I understand it the GF2 is not a replacement for the GF1 but a model step down, to be the precurser for a GF(3) a professional form.

The feel of the two cameras is strangely different, for such a similar design concept. Olympus one route, panasonic the other, one will come naturally to you. And I would go with that one.

I was comprehensively put off with the Sony NEX range and their utterly ludicrous touch screen interface - it is designed for point and shoot auto mode only, and the benefit of that tiny body negated by their larger lenses. 5 minutes being frustrated was sufficient for me to realise that it wasnt for me and is not a photographic tool.

I did not go for the Samsung NX100 (though tempted) as I thought that there was more support for the Micro 4/3rds range and nothing long and stabilised, and most likely would be going forward too. However this was my third choice.

I am fairly confident that we will be seeing a FUJI in the micro 4/3rds model line up too in the near future, now that will be special.

Image quality wise I shoot RAW and process in Aperture (mac's equivalent of lightroom) so there is little to be said for the benefits of Olympus's better Jpeg processing, and high ISO.

October 31, 2010

If I remember rightly, the FM3a is basically the FE2 but with the added benefit of more advanced (better) TTL auto flash exposure.

I have dusted off my old FE2 and FM2 and have hung onto the FM2 - awesome camera that!

So if youre going to shoot flash, get the FM3a, if not thats £60 towards a flashgun.

Thing to check is if the mirror stop rubber is in good condition or if it is starting to crumble, also the electrics, ie does it make the battery test whine and light come on. Does the shutter advance smoothly, or is it notchy.

Other than that its sophy's choice, but I would go for the FM3a

July 28, 2010

5D (I or II) and an 85mm f1.8

For weddings its all about faster lenses. The f4 (whilst a great lens) is not such a great option, rather head for an 85mm f1.8

Also Full frame is so much more useful for tight wedding shots when you need the wide angle. This is where the 35mm f1.4 comes into its own.

Cheers G

July 28, 2010

What display brightness setting are you using?

I had similar issues on a Macbook pro but it seemed to look fine with the setting at 3/4 and higher.

I then realised that the final print was perfect and I have learned to rely on the highlight and shadow control. The Canon's dynamic range handles everything else fine.

Sometimes you do need to keep an eye on the type of look you are going for, Aperture seems to exaggerate things to make them more obvious. I also dont find the black border helps with editing.

That aside I love the program and wouldnt use anything else.

June 13, 2010

Jamie sell it quickly.

I crossed from Nikon (F4 and FM2, Fe2 and Nikkormat) to an EOS 3 in '95 now I never managed to let anyone part me from the FM2 and three lenses, 50mm 1.8 35mm f2 and a Tamron 24mm f2.8.

Now 15 years later I am looking at my 5D, 100-400 50, 70-200, 100 macro, 28-70 and 17-40, 2 speedlights, an EOS3, 1nRS and thinking I really liked photographing elephants on foot with my Nikon FM2 and I want a Digital version, or at least that input, nikon gear is so practically manual, as to being more artistic, in the same way that you handle a paint brush, you turn the aperture ring. Canon miss that.

Sad to say, coming from a Canon user to admit that their input is more attentive to user detail.

So to save you financial remorse, sell it now. Or at least remember that Nikon is miles off Canon Video quality, its their only saving grace at the moment.

May 29, 2010

Hi Jitendra,

Personally I dont believe all the postings about good and bad lenses, I feel that they are the same; its the users that have the issues - Here is my personal observation of the lens.

http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00LiDj

Its nearly 3 years later and I am still using this lens for 90% of my wildlife work, in fact I like it even more.

I still have not had any issues with dust, something that i thought would be a problem. Anyone considering this lens should do some research into using it specifically the Image stabiliser, which takes a few seconds to warm up, and how to shoot with a long lens.

May 29, 2010

Hi Jitendra,

Personally I dont believe all the postings about good and bad lenses, I feel that they are the same; its the users that have the issues - Here is my personal observation of the lens.

http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00LiDj

Its nearly 3 years later and I am still using this lens for 90% of my wildlife work, in fact I like it even more.

I still have not had any issues with dust, something that i thought would be a problem. Anyone considering this lens should do some research into using it specifically the Image stabiliser, which takes a few seconds to warm up, and how to shoot with a long lens.

May 8, 2010

As with many others I am in a similar position and until recently my solution has been a Film camera with a single focal length lens Nikon FM2 with 24mm lens

I have been playing around and keeping tabs on the Micro 4/3rds. As yet they dont have a fast wide prime in their focal length of 11 or 12, this would be a deal breaker for me.

What I noticed is that the Panasonic lenses focus significantly faster than the Olympus lenses on either Olympus or Panasonic bodies. I did not particularly get along with the Olympus bodies and will definitely go down the route of the GF-1 Whilst i really like the folding Olympus zoom lens for its compactness I found it to be terribly disappointing when compared to the much larger Panasonic zoom lens.

It would be easy to sink a small fortune into the 4/3rds systems particularly as they launch new lenses.

I would not sell my full frame gear for this but use it extensively as a travel option where it will find a very useful niche and occupy about 60% of my photography.

Cheers G

December 13, 2009

I shoot 4 weddings a year with about 3 rolls of film per wedding; from which I usually end up with 6 images that really challenge the digital ones. About 85% of my shots are Digital.

As for all the bull regarding the hassle of film processing... clearly whoever wrote this doesnt shoot film. You hand it in, pay and walk away smiling.

I dont shoot commercially, but I do get paid to shoot my weddings and offer a very personal service. I would feel I had short changed a client if I were not to give them some film as well as the Digital extravaganza.

Additionally it becomes a completely different spin on backups, as whatever is crashing your ultra reliable digital camera is very unlikely to affect your film camera.

Kodak E100G - Stunning low light bounced flash images awesome flattering tangible skin tones - and projected are in a class of their own something that Digital cannot touch. Dragged images (when they work) are so full of life, whereas Digitally they loose that oomph.

Kodak Portra 800 - An alternative for lower light work. I will not dispute that Digital definitely has the upper hand in High ISO work, and the likes of the D700 being twice as good as film, but this one has a certain saturated feel provided you get the metering right. (I cant be bothered [now] to learn the Fuji press 1600)

Kodak Portra 160nc - For no effort whatsoever this film produces the best portraits imaginable. No post processing necessary, and gorgeous tonality. The VC is also awesome if you want to spice things up and go for a pastel effect.

Fuji Delta 1600 - With what you are getting from Digital and converted to B&W there is little reason to mention this, as anyone can recreate the grainy effect - but film has a certain dimensional edge, and a hand processed B&W print takes allot of beating. Its a mood thing

I would never feel confident if I had to shoot a whole wedding with film, I need the security of seeing the results.

My primary requirement of film, is Projected images, the NC sort of came to me as my back up alongside the two faster negative films and though I dislike Negative film, these have stuck.

Lastly I have a 5x4 field camera that I occasionally break out. The resultant images are magnificent and blow away anything else.

I guess its a case of the right medium for the right subject. Plus changing to film forces you to think, which is a good thing right?

December 6, 2009

Try playing around with the panasonic GF-1 it would appear to be a similar in principle to the FM2/FE2/FM3a but in the digital arena.

Yes they have not yet gotten a sufficient number of lenses yet - its a young system, but will use all your existing lenses too.

Plus its small really small - just remember you multiply the focal length by 2 to get equivalent to your current system.

G

November 19, 2009

Having owned the 300 f4 IS I can comprehensively stand behind it as a most impressive optic.

I owned the 300 f2.8 sigma as well as the sigma 300 f4 at the same time. Whilst I appreciate that the Canon 300 f2.8 is in an entirely different category, the Sigma f4 APO hsm was the best value for money, and the 300 f4 canon was the best quality of all I owned.

Doing it again, I would go for the Sigma 300 f4, it still amazes me the quality it produced, at a fraction of the canon price. But the canon is compatible with the 1.4 extender, making it more versatile, yet of the two I would choose the Sigma. However you enter the territory of that SIgma 120-300 f2.8 and It would have to be this that I would choose, together with the dedicated Sigma 1.4 extender.

However truth be told I now only own the 100-400L Canon it is an amazing lens, covering a similar range to the 300 f4IS and on occasions that I have a need for it I do use the 1.4 extender with really great results.

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