gilou

<p>All,<br>

For your info, I've contacted AMAZxN.FR (I'm French), And they accepted to refund me the value of these cards. They also said that they will stop selling these cards as few other users complain about the same issue. <br>

Next question is : What should I take to replace the transcend cards. (Sandisk/Lexar/Kingstone ...)?</p>

<p>Thanks and best regards Gilles.</p>

<p>Hi Larry,<br>

Originally I look on various forum to see what was recommended for the EOS7D in term of CF card. And I saw many times ... any card will do the job. just make sure that the speed of the cards is at least x133. <br>

That is the reason why i bought these ones. I didn't know that i would get such problem with them. I 'm gonna see to change them... <br>

Brgds gilles.</p>

 

<p>i found the solution here :<br>

<a href="http://davidnaylor.org/blog/2008/04/problem-and-solution-16gb-compact-flash/">http://davidnaylor.org/blog/2008/04/problem-and-solution-16gb-compact-flash/</a></p>

<p>but the problem is an old one and should have been fixed a long time ago with the new firmwares.<br>

I'm gonna see if a friend can give me a try with a 16Gb or 32 Gb card.<br>

Will keep you updated.<br>

I've the solution, but wanted to have your feedback... I know how to have really 16Gb, but I need to avoid any formating by the EOS7D.<br>

I've seen the previous post ... and me too .. i bought my cards on amazen.com !<br>

Brgds Gilles.</p>

<p>I've tested ... when properly formated, I can put More than 15.8Gb<br>

In fact I put the camera in Film Full HD 25p ... and it is quite quick to have xx Gb (about 1GB per 2 minutes.)<br>

Fake cards ? I don't think so. I'm gona ask a friend who got a 50D to test the Cards....<br>

I will check my S/N on the link provided and will tell you.<br>

Brgds Gilles.</p>

 

<p>Hi all,<br /> Few weeks ago i bought an EOS 7D. and I'm quite happy with it.<br /> few days ago I was surprised to see that my 16Gb car was full, considering that i only shoot less than 300 pictures in RAW or JPG or RAW+JPG.<br /> So I decided to format my 16gb Cf card (Transcend x133)... and the EOS7D says that the cad is 7.8Gb.<br /> I looked into the various forum and on the net i found that a guy got this kind of issue but with an EOS 30D ! He proposes a solution that works fine.... : Use a CF reader on your computer and a small software to format the CF card. <br /> Now I can see that I've 16Gb accessible for my shots .. but if I try to format this card with the 7D ... it transforms into a 8Gb CF card !<br /> In fact I've 2 cards (Transcend 16Gb 133x), and they react exactly the same...<br /> Are you aware of such issue ? In CLear i will have to delete the photos from my CF card ... but should avoid to format them with the canon - otherwise i will lose half of the capacity !<br /> Thanks for your feedback<br /> Brgds gilles.<br /> Note: My firmware is up-to-date (1.2.5).</p>

<p>All,<br>

I've received my EOS7D and finally I also ordered the 15-85mm.<br>

I need to do some more testing with this zoom - i did not test that much the zoom as from now.<br>

all i can say is that it is "quick/silent" to focus. regarding image quality , I also need to see the results either "direct output from the 7D" or " output from DDP using RAW corrections.."<br>

it is clear that the zoom is dark, but that is not a real issue from what i've seen. for me as for now the main limitation comes from the aperture on the 70-85mm range.<br>

On the other hand I've tested the 7D with my primes and my first impression is really that the 7D + 50mm f:1.4 is really incredible.<br>

I've also tested the 7D with my old 540EZ flash, and this works perfectly (in full manual mode obviously!)<br>

regarding macro, I will do my macro with the 50mm f:1.4 + extension rings. This works quite well.<br>

Will get back to you in few weeks ... If I change my mind on this zoom.</p>

<p>Thanks you for your help and support.</p>

<p>note:<br>

Brad, I do not plan to use anymore my film camera.... so the FF Lenses are not mandatory.<br>

Tom, I'have had bad experience with sigma lenses/Zooms (28-70 f2.8 and 70-300 .... ), So I do not want to go this way. additionnaly I understood that Canon did not give the focusing algorithm to 3rd party vendors such as Sigma, and this seems to be an issue in some specific cases.</p>

 

<p>Thanks David for the TIP.<br>

I will ask my friend a training ... on how to shoot in RAW.</p>

<p>I fully agree with you Larry,<br>

a 15-85mm f:4 would be a perfect zoom for a 7D.<br>

Yes David, I try a 550D and a 50D and was alredy really impressed with ISO... I was used to have 100iso films, now we can push up to 800 (even more) with absolutely no risk (like on your image). <br>

<strong>I think that I absolutely need to do some testing in-house and play with ISO.</strong> and see what happens with high apertures and DOF<br>

so my first step is to get the 7D. <br>

I will comeback with my tests.<br>

Best regards Gilles.</p>

 

<p>Hello Marcus, Philip,<br>

Here we are with the famous choice : 17-50 vs 15-85 <br>

Hi David , yes I've ssen (with one of my friend) what we can do with either DXO or DPP .... But unfortunatelly you cannot extend focal range or increase the aperture, so I still have to choose between range extension versus aperture.<br>

I will try to rent boths in order to decide if the range extension is really a pain for me - I know that it will be a difficult choice<br>

brgds Gilles</p>

 

<p>hi Herma,<br /> The 16-35 looks a very nice lens, however, its price and weight are important, additionally it is less versatile than the 17-50 f:2.8 for instance.<br /> Thanks Andy, Jay,<br /> In fact for this zoom I'm more interested by wide angle than really "long reach".<br /> as I take a lot of landscapes, the equivalent of 24mm (15mm with this zoom) is something important for me.<br /> Obviously I would prefer a fast lens... but this does not exist... My ideal lens for a Cropped sensor would be 15-70 ou 80mm f: 2.8 with a reasonable price and weight.... but I dream...<br /> On a full frame, the 24mm was fine, and the 50mm long enough for many of my shots.<br /> In fact for long reach I plan to either by a 135mm or the famous 70-200f4 IS.<br /> My choice is still not 100% clear, but the 15-85 looks has many plus for my type of use. I read many reviews; my only concern is the use of this zoom in interior shooting kids.<br /> Will I be obliged to put a flash ... or use my primes? (I'm not 100% certain than even with a 17-50mm f2.8, this will help a lot...)<br /> Best regards Gilles.</p>

<p>thanks Massimo, You raised the point I was scared about. In clear I've to do a choice:<br>

wider Zoom (15-85) or<br>

quicker Zoom (17-50 f:2.8)</p>

<p>Hello,</p>

<p>I plan to buy an EOS 7D.<br>

I’m the owner of old Canon EOS5 EOS1N …. And also a certain number of lenses.<br>

I own the 50mm f:1.4 / 35mm f2.0 / 24mmf2.8 as well as an Old Tamron 19-35mm f:3.5-4.5 + extension rings + Flash. I’ve sigma zoom, but they are “dead”/seems not working on EOS D bodies.<br>

I’ve tested few days ago a 550D with a 18-135mm, and must say that I was quite impressed by the combo … when stepped down of at least 2 stops. Obviously my primes were just better, especially at apertures that were unavailable on the ZOOM.</p>

<p>I essentially shoot kids, landscapes and a bit of macro (flowers …).<br>

Here is my question … I’m potentially looking for a zoom (trans standard) in order to travel lighter than I do and be more flexible than my 3 lenses.<br>

I’ve identified the</p>

<ul>

<li>15-85mm f:3.5-5.6 – this one is nice in term of focal length but image quality for landscape/ travelling photo ?</li>

<li>17-50mm f:2.8 – focal range less interesting, but potentially better image quality – price … (a bit too much).</li>

<li>17-40mm f:4 – one of my favorite choice for a full frame … but a bit short for a trans standard on crop sensor.</li>

<li>17-50mm f:2.8 tamron – Cheap… same versatility as the Canon 17-50 – but potential issue with focus</li>

<li>17-55mm Sigma – Cheap same versatility as the Canon 17-50- but potential issue with focus.</li>

</ul>

<p>For the moment … I look at the 15-85mm but I would like to have your thoughts.<br>

Thanks for your help.<br>

Brgds Gilles.</p>

Hi,

 

Roger, maybe that's the good approach. I was thinking of it.

I'm going to test that !

 

Peter, I scan in 16bit linear without any profile (RAW) - Minolta 5400 rev1 - then I open in photoshop and apply the profile.

 

Nigel : Film fuji Sensia 100 / Kodak Elitechrome 100 / ASTIA100

 

Brgds - gilles.

Hi all,

 

After hundreds of scans, and tens of target calibration, I still have color

shifts. The big point is that the color shift is not always the same across

the rolls (somtimes almost no color shift - somtimes heavy magenta colorcast).

I've seen that some of my slides rolls were much more encline to color shift.

 

So my question is : as I know that my profile is really good (Global dE < 0.4)

and knowing that I still have random color shifts over the various rolls, I'm

wondering if all this would not come from the developpement of the Slides

(chemistry).

 

If So, How do you solve the problem ?

do you take a photo of a white/gray/black target on each film ?

 

Thanks in advance for your support.

 

Best Regards. - gilles

Thanks Erik for the explanation,

 

I need to do some tests ...... to confirm your workflow.

 

Brgds -gilles.

Hi Erik,

 

I'm a bit lost here..... I read many times that the best scanning results were obtained scanning in 16bit Linear.

 

At the begining (one year ago) I was scanning in 16bit, but after many msg exchange on the forum (with mendel) I've change my scanning workflow and move to 16bit LIN. My understanding is that when we scan in 16bitlin, we just take the "pure raw data" from the scanner without any other hardware/software change. then you apply your profile that will compensate either the gamma (from 1.0 to 2.2) and the colors shifts.

 

I understand your point related to the fact that, if we scan in 16bit lin, the profile will have to compensate the 1.0 gamma.

On My side, I've done many tests (really a lot, I can tell you !) and I've observed that the quality of the profile was better when i scan in 16bit lin. When I said quality I mean "Max Min ad Average dE of the Profile". Now the result in the real world (on pictures) varies a lot.

 

For your info, I've used many Color management tools (XL profiler, LCMS, SCARSE, Monaco Profiler, ....). Finally, the best results are obtained with SCARSE and scanning in 16bit LIN. But that is only my opinion.

 

Could you please shows us an example that will make me change my process .... Scan something in 16bit Lin and apply a 16bit lin profile and in parallel, scan the same slide in 16bit and apply the 16bit profile, then we will be able to conclude on this major point !

 

What kind of software do you use to profile ?

 

Note: I read on your website that we should compensate the Colors and Master units in the DSU. How do you know How to change theses values ?

On My side, I always scan with everything set to normal. The profile compensate everything.

both are excellent....

I own a 5400 mk1 and I can tell you that B&W, negs and slide are outstanding.

I can warn you on the following things (on the 5400 mk1) :

 

1. profiling this machine is not simple (but is the same for all scanners I suppose) -

 

2. Depth of Field is really narrow .... So if you want slides in focus from edge to edge you should go with a NIKON or maybe the Multipro.

That is the reason why I develop my sildes in strips !

 

hope this will help

No. Don't use the Color Matching Feature.

Configure your DSU in 16bit Lin.

Scan and save your file. At this time your scan does not have any embbeded profile. When you open your file with photoshop, apply the Minolta linear profile (or your personnal profile) and convert to the working space you want (Adobe98 or Prophoto or Ektaspace).

hope it is clear.

 

Brgds -gilles.

here it is ....

here is the explanation .....

There was a problem with MAC .....

me tooooooooooooooooo.

Hi Jeff,

 

thank you for your very interresting contibution.

On My side i made a lot of calculation .... and my conclusion are that between Coc =0.035 and CoC=0.025 (for hyperfocal focus distance), the differnce is approximativelly of 1 STOP (what ever the focal distance is used).

In clear when Mys EOS5 or EOS1N Says that it requires f:5.6, I need to overide to f:8 in order to have everything clear from hyperfocal/2 up to infinite.

 

A Conservative approach would be to use a 1+1/3 or 1+0.5 Stop.

 

Brgds -Gilles.

Have had the same issue, but i've used my vacuum cleaner (instead opening the scanner !).

Of course be very carefull ..... and do not put the full nozzle of the vacuum inside the scanner.

On mine it works perfectly.

 

Now I've build a protection (thick paper/cardboard) in order to avoid dust to come into the scanner. My protection can be used either when scanning or not ! It tooks me few minutes to create it ! and this protection is on my scanner all the time.

 

Brgds -Gilles.

thank you all.

 

in the end I will take 15-20 Sensia and 10 Elite.

 

I will mix and will see...

 

Brgds -Gilles.

Richard,

 

I move from neg to slides for 2 main reasons. the first one is the color... With a slide you can always check what you are doing when scanning, and correct things if there is something wrong .... Which is not the case with negs. The second point is the grain. There is too much post processing in fine tuning tools in order to reduce the grain (to me).

 

On the other side, I agree with you the latitude of slides are really narrow, but I've a camera that never gives me bad things on this side (EOS1N). Sometimes when I'm not sure, I just bracket ....

 

For your info, I mainly use FUJI Reala (on my second body - EOS5). I like this film too.

 

Brgds -Gilles. http://gxiberras.free.fr

Hi Richard,

 

Yes I scan my slides .....

I was just asking .... and understand that you, you would stick to the Sensia.

 

Brgds-gilles