russ_britt1
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Posts posted by russ_britt1
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No, the metal hood for this lens is round. But you can also use the older pro shade which is square. Copies of the metal shade appear on e-bay a lot, I bought one about a year ago pretty cheap, I think I paid less than $20. The Hassey shade will run closer to $100 used.The pro shade is a bit bulky for candids but works great if using tripod. The SWC is a great camera, I use mine a lot for candids, preset to ten feet and a barebulb flash.
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Fill flash is best done on a camera that will sync. with flash at any shutter speed. I don`t think you can do that with your Bronica. But you let the flash control your f-stop and the ambient light control you shutter speed ,untill you get the blance of flash/ambient light you want.
Example if flash output gives f8 at ten feet and you subject is ten feet away your fstop is f8. You then take a ambient reading at f8 and see what shutter speed you get. If the ambient reading calls for 1/60 of a second then f8 at 1/60 will balance the flash and ambient light at ten feet. If you want more ambient light in the picture you use a slower shutter speed and stop the lens down a stop. if you want more flash use a faster shutter speed.This is not as hard as it sounds.
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A tripod and sharp film and good exposure are all important. I have made 60X40 prints from my Hasselblad,same neg size.
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If you know what you want you can`t beat e-bay for prices,as you pay what you want. But you need to really know what you are buying as many of the sellers don`t know what they are selling.
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I see them on e-bay sometimes.
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I would send it to Hasselblad in New Jersey for correct repairs.It look brand new.
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Ernst is the man! I took a class with him in the early 80s. He knows Hasseys ,he was their tech director.
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Get a NC2 and a hand held meter.
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45is best unless you are shooting 645 backs and need to rotate.
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They made the CM....you can lock the mirror if you want ,or even use ground glass if you want.What could you not do with a CM? The Super wide was made for this one lens......?
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Sorry, I didn`t know what was going on when I answered....
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Is it a Hasselblad brand filter? If not the filter is the problem. I have never seen a loose Hassey filter on a Hassey lens.Please do not glue any thing to a Hassey lens.... well its your lens do it if you don1t care about it.
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By the way you won`t need a chair as you will be sitting on your subject while shooting head and sholder shots with a 80mm. I would be more worried about shooting distance than close focuse distance for portraits. I use a 150mm mainly for portraits, including full length shots! I only use a 80mm when on location and run out of space, or shooting large groups.The 150mm will give lots better result for portraits. The 120mm would be my second choice.
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The old non automatic 120 back would also shoot 220 film if you blocked the window with a rubber plug ,made just for this reason by hassey befor thet made 220 backs.
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Square is best!!!!!!!!!!1
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I about forgot I love square shooting ,not having to rotate the camera all of the time.
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The CM has user replacable focus screens. The C is supposed to be replaced by repair shops.The only service I have needed is light seals in the film backs. But my backs are about 25 years old or older.This can be user replaced I have been told ,but hassey lubes and checkes out the back at replacement. Hassey USA charged about $90 each a few years ago for this. The 645 problems I had was when the camera was about two years old!
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I started mith the 645 in 1975 I think ... anyway when it first came out. Used it for hobby, ..kept eating film transpot gears and batteries.Lost money on it and sold it, and went with Hassey a few years latter, no problems ,works great. A local professional of 60 years in business called me two weeks ago when his RB67 stopped right before a setting and I loaned him one of my Hasseys to use, he loves it. He uses RB in studio and a Mamiya 7 on location. I use Hassey for all shooting,studio and location. Never had a breakdown with it!
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I have five CT* lens, only one has a slow shutter below 1/30 of a second.All of the rest are fine.Check the slow speeds, if okay buy it.
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It depends on the lab you use. Millers turns around b&w or color usually in one day. They airborn them to them, and back. I live across the country from them and get prints back in 4 to 5 days,usually 4.Some labs are a lot slower.They do great work also....
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I carry a 283 converted to bare bulb with a batam power supply for small work. I have two metz 402 with power packs for work requiring more power. Of course studio lights for any thing else. I use a small dennis reggie bracket for the 283. A larger sanders bracket for the 402s. I just hand hold the 283 sometimes.
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I don`t use a superwide in the studio! Guys get real. I use a ELM usually with 150mm sometimes 120mm.
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As stated a Hassey would be much better in the studio, but using prefocuse with a wide lens will work great for candids.Of course the superwide makes a great street camera.Small, light, and quick.
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Faster film will show light leaks more. My hassey back never showed light leaks unless I shot 800 asa film.Had backs rebuilt problem gone.
Hasselblad 60mm
in Medium Format
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