daniel_fusion

<p>@Thanks for the nice pictures!<br>

On ebay # 42846678 a Canon OD F-1 is offered for 1.200 € until 16.08.2009.</p>

@Lindy,

 

>>"...what the green paint body and 3 or 4 green paint lenses you've mentioned would typically cost?..."

 

have a look at e-bay or leica auctions. Perhaps you've never seen such high priced photo staff before.

 

It's a small market only for very rich and spleeny collectors and has nothing to do with real photography.

 

Regards

 

Hans-Bernd

There were never made any green FD-lenses. I think that's the greatest aesthetic mistake of the olive F-1.

 

If I was thinking of a green camera, I would prefer Leica-R4 green safari with the green lenses 28, 50 and 180mm or even green Leica-M3, M4 or a new green M6-TTL from Hongkong. Of course the old green M-lenses are very rare and expensive, while really bought and used by militaries.

Of course it is possible using L-lenses on FtB. But you must turn the lenses out of automatic BEFORE fitting them to a FtB or old F.

The problem of focus must have other reasons.

Karl,

forget the IWKOO hood, it must be so wide open for 21mm, that it seems to me quite useless.

@Kelvin,

 

try to get an elder 28mm Leica metal finder, I like the black one more than the chrome.

 

I'm mot very happy with view-finders, changes between the separate viewfinders on top of the M and the finder inside takes too much time often.

 

When curently using the 28mm-Summicron, a very fine lens indeed, I would better think of a 0.58 M.

 

Hans-Bernd

Try f.e. http://www.hksupplies.com/product/product1.cfm

Neither 'Börlienor' nor 'Hämbörga', it should be "Bernhardiner", the nice small swiss dogs, which might rescue you from crevasses with the help of their little barrels of gin.

 

;-))

 

But did you know what former chancellor Konrad Adenauer answered when USSR secretary general Chruschtschow asked him, if he knew the two best politicians: "Ich kenne-dy!"

I have read, that there have been some late IIIg built with M-bajonet: Leica Pocket Book, Laney/Puts.

So Leitz has done this job in the fifties, but if they will do it nowadays? You might ask them, but be seated comfortable when listening to the price ;-))

No AE-1, AL-1, AV-1, A-1, T-70,T-50, T-90 or any electronic stuff, because electronic parts of FD-system have become too old.

Take a mechanical FtBn, AT-1 or even a F-1 (no prof. equipment!) but only in best condition. Never think of T-60 again!

Strange kind of humour, I don't like it.

Combine the best of both lenses and have a look at the Summicron 2,0 - 50 collapsible.

The Super-Angulon 4,0-21 stops down (right to left) in the opposite direction than any Leitz/Leica lens because it was designed and built by Schneider/Kreuznach. Leitz couldn't manufacture themself a Super-Angulon at that time, but they needed something in opposite to the Zeiss/Contax 21mm.

I like my two M-135s. When passing through streets and looking for details or nice portraits the goggled 2,8 is wonderful, though ist big and heavy. But on journeys I prefer my Tele-Elmar 4,0 - 135. Changing lenses is easier and it is a better team together with 21 and 35. If you need better framing, ever thought of using the new viewfinder magnifier M 1.25x? Very useful - even on a M3.

I don't like the sparate viewfinder for 21mm too.

Have you ever thought of a "goggled" Super Angulon 21/3,4? Design Tom Abrahamsson, conversion made by Reinhold Mueller, Toronto, Canada [fax 416-467-7447]. Conversion is also available on the 21/2,8.

Have a look at Hans Pahlen's Leica M-site.

 

Regards

@Peter,

Summicron 90/4.0?

Never heard before! Summicron stands always for 2.0 at 28, 35, 50 and 90mm.

Regards

@Dough,

I prefer my Summicron 50. At f 1.2 I remark less contrast and sharpness at my Canon FD 50 1.2L.

The Summicron 50 2.0 is very small and handsome, even collapsible.

With my Leica Ms I am not missing 1.2 because with Leica M I use 1/15 sec. instead of 1/60 with Canon FtB.

I have made hundreds of color-slides with both lenses.

If you compare directly - same picture, same situation etc. - you will prefer the Leica lens soon, too because of better colours and more details.

Hi TT Koh,

Megatron Euro-MASTER II is very fine, especially for light measuring, but a Leica Metrawatt MR-4 is quicker and more handsome.

Try to get this last version, the elder ones might have become incorrectly.

My favorite wird M lenses are

1. summicron 2,0 - 35 with goggles for M3

2. super-agulon 4,0 - 21, very handsome and using 39mm filter.

@Bino,

 

my second trial for the Guide Numbler Tables of Canon Speedlite 299T, instructions p.24:

 

 

G.htm

 

 

G. NO. (Manual Full ft.)

 

 

I S O 25 50 64 100 200 400 1000

 

f

 

 

28mm 41 58 65 82 116 164 259

 

 

35mm 49 69 78 98 138 196 310

 

 

85mm 65 92 104 131 185 262 414

 

 

G. NO. (Manual 1/16) = G. NO. (Manual Full) ./.4

 

 

Better? Try to get the numbers straight upon another.

 

Regards

@Bino,

 

1. here are the Guide Numbler Tables of Canon Speedlite 299T, instructions p.24:

 

G.htm

 

G. NO. (Manual Full ft.)

 

ISO 25 50 64 100 200 400 1000

f

28mm 41 58 65 82 116 164 259

35mm 49 69 78 98 138 196 310

85mm 65 92 104 131 185 262 414

 

G. NO. (Manual 1/16) = G. NO. (Manual Full) ./.4

 

These Guide Number Tables have been printed on stickers adhering to the flash. They have been available for ft. and m. but only for manual full flash. A quarter of manual full flash will be manual 1/16 flash.

 

2. Instrucions p. 14

Program Mode

this mode can be used with cameras which have a shutter-priority or program AE mode. Used in either of these modes, when the shutter button is pressed halfway, the 299T will emit near-infrared rays which bounce off the subject and are measured by the sensor. An aperture is then automatically selected according to the shooting distance and reflectivity of the subject.

 

p.16

In the Program Mode

1. When using FD lenses, make sure that the lens is set to the "A" mark. (This is not necessary with AC lenses).

2. Turn the main switch ON and set the mode selector to "PROGRAM".

3. Make sure the pilot lamp lights up. The "flash" mark in the viewfinder will come on at the same time as the pilot lamp. The shutter speed will automatically switch to each camera's X-sync speed.

 

The respective cameras' X-sync speeds are as follows:

T90 1/90 sec. (in the manual mode 1/250 sec.)

T80, T70 and F-1 1/90 sec.

T50 and A-series cameras 1/60 sec.

 

4. Compose the picture and focus the subject.

5. Press the shutter button halfway to activate the viewfinder information display.

...

6.If there are no warnings, press the shutter button all the way to take the picture.

7. Turn the main switch OFF when flash photography is finished.

 

 

Perhaps that will help you. Sometimes there are T299 instructions offered at e**y.

 

Regards

@Charles,

try to rent or borrow a Noctilux first. If you like the pictures you have taken and not only the status of possession than buy it.

Never discuss with the supervisors at Heathrow or L.A., especially when arriving from overseas!

Avoid high-speed film or buy and develope it inside the country you are visiting, I know that's sometimes impossible.

Try to get acquainted with local photographers by internet, perhaps they might help you getting your rolls developed.

If more digital equipment will be used, the last film-photographers will be forced having their rolls x-rayed without any discussions or might using digi-cams too.

Freedom of choice is one thing, but the urgency for public safety the other.

@Robert,

ask Fotomechanik - Kielgas, Baumstrasse 19, 30171 Hannover

Telefon: 0511 - 814699, Fax: 0511 - 819936

E-Mail: post@fotomechanik-kielgas.de

 

Claus-W.Reinhardt ( Fotomechanik Kielgas ) knows a lot of leica cameras and lenses. He might help you.

Why not a FD 1,2 L ? I think it is the best of all.