e._r._averitt

<p>Just a thought, if this will be used a backup camera, then buy a refurbished 7d or 50d, directly from Canon USA.</p>

<p>Using the Canon Loyalty program, I just received a refurbished 7d <strong>for</strong> $1094.21(tax and s/h charges not included). I did have to trade in my broken EOS Elan IIe($304.79 credit).</p>

<p>Just wished that canon had a loyalty program for my broken 24-85mm!</p>

<p>Billy, and one more that I have used in the past;</p>

<p>http://www.rentglass.com/shop.aspx?type=Canon</p>

<p>EOS 3</p><p><br></p><p>Just ran an expired roll of Reala through it. Pictures came out perfect, love the ECF and 45 auto focusing points.</p><p><br></p><p>Odd thing is that after each shot, I kept chimping for the missing histogram, and the "memory card" only held 36 shots!</p>

<p>OP, for your 10d, have you thought about the Sigma 17-70mm f2.8-4.5?</p>

<p>link to photozone review </p>

<p>http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/312-sigma-af-17-70mm-f28-45-dc-macro-test-report--review</p>

<p>OP, just a sample of what this lens can do, 20d, 70-200l f4, at 200mm<br>

YMMV<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/4503048&size=lg</p>

<p>Another vote <strong>for </strong>ECF!</p>

<p>How many EOS 3's were sold compared to 1v's or 7e/7ne's to 7's? ECF was the finale straw that convinced me to retire my aging Pentax Spotmatic F, and jump ship to Canon.</p>

<p>For Canon, where is my EOS 3d, with ECF? My grandchildren and a digital ECF SLR camera, truly, a match made in Canon EOS heaven!</p>

<p>For Harry, if all is not in focus, perhaps a DOF problem, just increase your aperture.</p>

<p>Kevin, what Steve is referring to is a 645e with a Rapid Wind Grip, GN401. This grip required 2 strokes to advance the film and cock the shutter. I don't have this accessory, and to date, have no problems with the built in crank. I also have 3 120 inserts, no problems with any of them either.</p>

<p>JDM, nice EOS 650 picture, but it is missing it's 50mm Mark 1 lens!</p>

<p>My 1987 Mark 1 is still in use today. Hats off to Canon, for having the foresight, for 1986 glass to be still with us today, and has survived film, to be quite useful in the digital age of 2010.</p>

<p>Canon BG-E7 grip can only be used on the 7D camera. At this time, no other current cameras are compatible with it.</p>

<p>Stephen- everything in my 645E viewfinder is quite visible, even with the rubber shade fully extended. 100% of viewfinder is seen, meaning that the entire viewfinder's image is surrounded by a black mass, on all 4 sides. The image is much larger than the similar image in my Honeywell Pentax Spotmatic F, but both look the same, a black mask surrounding the image.</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9780679-lg.jpg" alt="" width="250" height="179" /></p>

<p>Jim- 645E has built in -5 to +5 dioptic adjustment ring, eyeglasses are not needed, and yes, I do wear glasses full time.<br>

<img src="file:///C:/DOCUME~1/RAYAVE~1/LOCALS~1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png" alt="" /></p>

<p>Stephen, there could be something wrong with the your viewfinder.</p>

<p>You should be able to see the Shutter LED's on the left side of the viewfinder, while looking at the central part of the viewfinder. I do have to eyeball slightly to the left side in order to read the shutter speeds, but, they can still be seen while focusing in the central part of the viewfinder. Without looking directly at them, I can see them flashing from either over exposure, or for LT exposure. I can also tell which group is lit up( bottom, central, and upper) without looking directly at them.</p>

<p>Hope this helps,</p>

<p>E. R. Averitt</p>

<p>Another vote for Kodak Portra VC 400, plus a tripod.</p>

<p>You might also experiment with some exposure bracketing too. Take extra rolls of film, and all of your lenses.</p>

<p>Do practice in the same light before your shoot, this will able you to become more familiar with you setup. Try to keep f stops greater than f5.6, will allow more objects in your photo to be in focus.</p>

<p>Hello Dan, welcome to the EOS forum.</p>

<p>Any of the Canon (EX models) speedlites should work. Some are not in production, and like the D60, may not be up to snuff, as the newer ones are, but they will still be very functional.</p>

<p>Some older models are, 220ex, 380ex, 420ex, 550ex, 430ex, and the 580ex.</p>

<p>Macro- rings? I think William is referring to screw in magnification filters, ie. 52mm for your 50mm.</p>

<p>If you need wide angle, there are many choices available. A wide angle for crop cameras should be wider than 20mm.</p>

 

<p>Ash, look for the mk1 version, mine (a 1988, date code UC502) is still working great!<br /> Mk1 does not have a plastic mount, and it's build quality is much better too. A friend of mine was able to locate one on Craig"s List for a next to nothing price. His is older than mine, a pristine 1988 copy. Your milage may very, pristine examples are getting hard to come by.</p>

<p>Hello Raid;<br>

Which Mamiya do you have?<br>

I have a 645e. On page 9, Mamiya 645e Instructions , there are instructions to remove and attach the film advance crank.<br>

"With the flat part, having a White Index Line on top, line the Crank up against its mounting plate on the side of the body and turn clockwise and then counter-clockwise."<br>

Hope this helps, E. R.</p>

<p>Songsten, the greater the focal length, the tighter the frame shot can be made.<br /> Example here is a 20d, 70-200l f4, ISO 100, 1/250, F4.0, @200mm lens setting, built in flash on.</p>

<p><img src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/RAYAVE%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg" alt="" /><br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/4503048&size=md</p>

<p>Maria,<br /> BTW, off subject, but great (home page) web sight!</p>

<p>Maria, have you tried using an off-camera shoe cord, or the Speedlight Transmitter ST-E2? Does the problem still exist?<br>

If this is your only flash, then it might be a good time to buy another one for backup, or to use in a multiple light setup. A spare flash would also allow you to continue to shoot, if one fails, or is being repaired.</p>

Thanks for the heads up!

 

But I just put mine in my bank two days ago. Just my luck. If I had known, then I would of held on to it a while longer, hope others are more fortunate than me. As they say,"easy come, easy go"

24-85mm f3.5-4.5 USM, others will chip in with different opinions.

 

One advantage of the 24-85mm is in the usage of 67mm filters (same size as my 70-200mm f4L). Another is lighter weight than the 28-135mm IS (380g vs 540g). Also cost, with the money saved on the 24-85mm(compared to the 28-135mm), will allow you to purchase the Canon 50mmf1.8. My copy of this lens has, while not a "L" class lens, has had pretty good IQ on my crop body cameras.

How about a 1.0x or a 1.2x tele converter, with built in IS?

Anthony, 1V

 

At the Canon USA site, they have only one film camera still listed! There are no other choices, but the 1V. IMHO,

this is the last chance for a new EOS film body.

Whoops, another typo.

 

Meant to type "camera or card", just spend the last 2 days with IKE.

No problem with the camera are card. This will be an operator /end user error. For your type of shooting style,

you will need a Canon 1d Mark III.

 

Stats from Canon are;

 

JPEG: approx. 110 frames (Large/Fine, at standard level 8 compression setting)

RAW: approx. 30 frames

RAW+JPEG: approx. 22 frames (Large/Fine)

Jeff,

 

If this lens is for a short time or very limited use, have you thought of renting one or two? Last year on my trip to Big Bend Park, I needed a lens(10-22mm) to shoot the canyons and scenic vistas. Cost on a 1 to 2 week rental will not set you back to much. Plus it gave me time to evaluate my needs, before spending a lot of money on exotic Canon glass(16-35L,etc.), that I would seldom use.