kevin_lee5

<p><br>

</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I have not been in this forum for ages and hope I post the question in the right place. I have a Nikon N2020 AF camera; everything works properly except for its ASA dial. </p>

<p >I can adjust the exposure compensation position from +2 to -2 in steps without problems. However, the ASA setting got stuck -- I pulled up the outer ring (without problem) and could not change the ASA setting; I could not rotate the pulled-up ring.</p>

<p >I removed the film rewind crank and a small retainer ring; then, I had the entire ASA dial assembly exposed. The ASA dial outer ring moved freely up and down, but I have no idea how to move forward at this point so that I can change the ASA settings.</p>

<p ><a id="yui_3_11_0_4_1383873489624_1191" href=" data-track="photo-click"><img src="http://l.yimg.com/g/images/spaceball.gif" alt="n2020_DSCN9952 (400x267)" width="314" height="259" border="0" data-defer-src="" /></a></p>

<p > </p>

<p ><a id="yui_3_11_0_4_1383873489624_1201" href=" data-track="photo-click"><img src="http://l.yimg.com/g/images/spaceball.gif" alt="n2020_DSCN9970 (400x267)" width="314" height="259" border="0" data-defer-src="" /></a></p>

<p ><a id="yui_3_11_0_4_1383873677261_953" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/kevinklee168/10734483114/" data-track="photo-click"><img src="http://l.yimg.com/g/images/spaceball.gif" alt="n2020_DSCN9981 (400x267)" width="314" height="259" border="0" data-defer-src="" /></a></p>

<p > </p>

<p >Any idea? All help will be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p > <br>

Thank you.<br>

<br />Kevin K. Lee</p>

<p >Max: It is the card. I had the same problem just like what you described when I used cheap regular/normal SD cards. I needed to wait a couple of seconds after 2 or 3 shots Then, I got a Sandisk Extreem III, problem was solved. I also used a Kingston elite pro (50X). Both cards allow me to continuously shoot without slowing me down. I have been using RAW+JPEG option.</p>

Not to muddy the water. There is another alternative: Bibble 4.9.8 (or later) by Bibble Labs. It reads .NEF file very well and its Noise Ninja is awesome. It also has a couple of canned B&W settings that give you instantaneous B&W conversion to popular B&W film types. However, its user interface has some room to improve. I think it is at same price range as Nikon NX and Photoshop Element. The best thing about them is that you can actually call their staff and ask technical/operational questions.

 

Cheers;

I have a Moskva-5 6x9; it is a coupled rangefinder. It had minor light leak around the ruby windows, after I fixed the leaks it works very well. The lens is sharp and a bit of warm. My only grip is that its viewfinder is *very* small.

 

Matt has one too: http://www.mattdentonphoto.com/cameras/moskva_5.html

 

It can also take 6x6 with a film mask.

Thanks for the help. I will get the batteries to test it out with my fingers corssed.

 

Charles: BTW, I don't find Matt having a such camera in his site.

I picked up a beautiful Petri ES Auto, Electronic Shutter, rangefinder camera

with 40mm f/1.7 lens. The only problems are (1) the battery compartment has

some minor corrosion and (2) the shutter does not fire. Before I buy any new

batteries (yes, I do know the type of battery I need), I?d like to know if its

shutter needs battery to operate? Anyone has any experience with it?

 

Thank you.

Change to a fully charged battery and give it a try.

 

It happened to my (film) N80 -- exactly like what you described (different camera and different lens). Then, I changed the battery; everything came back to normal.

 

Hope this works.

 

Kevin

If you can accept the meter being inside of the viewing prism; then, Kiev 88 or 88 CM can be options -- either one can be fitted with 6x6 or 6x4.5 film back. You can check them out here:

 

http://www.araxphoto.com/cameras/

 

and

 

http://www.kievusa.com/

 

Also you can look at eBay, but that can be a risky business, since Kiev is not a reliable camera. That is why the aforementioned vendors sell ?modified? Kiev cameras but you need to pay for it.

 

Cheers;

 

-- Kevin

I picked up an old screw mount 135mm f/2.8 lens (named Rexatar) recently. I

understand that this lens is post 1970 but I think you folks may be able to

help, since lots of people in this forum have repair experience.

 

The lens is extremely hazy. Since I got it almost free and nothing to loss, I

took it apart from the rear mount; then, I found one surface of the 2nd glass

element is very hazy/foggy (I don�t believe it is fungus but I could be

wrong). I have tried Kodak lens cleaning fluid, KALT lens cleaner, even 409

glass cleaner, and had no luck. When it is wet, the glass is clear. When it

is dry, the haziness comes back.

 

I am open to any experiment/suggestion. Thank you.

 

Kevin

I second Santiago's suggestion. Get an Argus C-3, the famous "brick." Or, get two; one for color and one for B&W. It uses 35mm (type 135) film that you can get and develop in Wal-Mart or any drug store. This will get you started. Words of warning: collecting and using vintage cameras is extremely addictive.

 

Cheers;

Jim:

 

Read this for yourself:

 

http://www.bobatkins.com/forums/index.php?forum=3&topic=7

 

Kevin

I like and enjoy the Wayne�s 2nd Sunday Camera show a lot ( http://www.showsandexpos.com/cswayne.htm )

 

The prices vary a lot depending on the dealers; some reasonable, some were totally out of whack. I got some bargains, such as a fully functional Nikon EM body for $15, Zorki 3M with J-8 lens for $40, a few M42 lenses from $10 to $15 a piece. But, there were times that I got nothing.

 

Enjoy!

There is a cheap and effective alternative posted in the the Russiancamera Photo Gallery:

 

http://www.beststuff.com/forum/read.php?f=26&i=3782&t=3782

 

Hope this helps

Just be *very* careful: high voltage may present, if the capacitors work.

Bill:

 

Re: " ...unless there is a lens that beats the 18-70 for not a ton more money. "

 

Sigma's new 17-70mm f2.8-4.5 looks pretty good on paper:

http://www.sigma-photo.co.jp/english/news/17_70_28_45_dc.htm

Not sure about the price. You may want to check it out!

 

Cheers;

I have been using similar one (f3.5- 5.6, XR version, 62mm filter size) on N80. It is great for vacation with family and samll kid(s), and if you don't need 8x10 pictures. Just my 2-cent.

My 2-cent:

 

A simple way to look at your question is to consider the camera+lens+tripod as a mechanical system. Your goal is to minimize the vibration of the entire system during the long exposure. To minimize the vibration, there are 2 ways: (1) increase the stiffness of the system, and/or (2) increase the system mass.

 

Due to your limited budget, you should pick one that has the fattest legs, and the legs can be locked very firmly; the leg brace also helps � to increase the stiffness. In addition, the bottom of the center column should have a hook so that you can place a weight (say, your backpack, or a balloon fill with sand/water, etc.) � to increase the mass.

 

Hope this helps

Bill:

 

Oleg: http://www.okvintagecamera.com/repair.html

 

Yuri: http://www.fedka.com/catalog/

 

Or, you can try Gary at:

 

Gary Camera Repair;

228 Hett Ave., Staten Island, NY 10306;

718-987-0278

 

Good luck.

 

Kevin

Simon:

 

This may help a little bit; but you need to ask your Chinese speaking friend to help. Basically, this Chinese article contains a couple of famous classic camera museums/collectors in Shanghai (with phone number):

http://www.sy916.net/sy916/showarticle.php?id=1261

 

Ask your friend to call them, who may be able to recommend stores in Beijing.

 

Another way is to look for: Zhang XK in this URL: http://www.beststuff.com/forum/list.php?f=21

 

Zhang is a classic camera/watch collector living in Beijing (his collection is amazing...). He should be able to point you to the right directions; especially on the vintage/classic camera stores in Beijing.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Kevin

I second Jon?s opinion. I have one, too. I used it with a Yashinon 50mm f1.7 and a Chinon 135mm f2.8 a couple months ago and they produced very satisfactory results. Indeed, I used the camera yesterday (11/20/05) in a local botanical garden with a Vivitar 200mm f3.5 (which I got for $10 in the 2nd Sunday Camera Show in Wayne, NJ last week).

 

My specimen came with a ?dead? meter. After I took the top case off, I found a very small piece of soft (rubber-ish) debris that blocked the meter movement. Having removed the debris, it works like a charm. The only gripe I have is that I wish it has a bright split focusing screen!

 

Cheers;

FM2 does not support TTL flash ? it means the lens setting and the light that the lens is ?seeing? are not passed to the flash; the flash will use its own The FM2 dedicated flash only has one added function (besides the trigger) ? when the flash is charged and ready, you will see a red LED lit up on the top of FM2 viewfinder.

 

Do a google search on your Minolta flash trigger voltage and compared that with a Nikon SB15/22 flash. If they are in the same ?range,? then it should be save to use it. But, your FM2 will NOT know if the flash is ready to fire. And, you have to set the flash (even with a Nikon flash) with proper f stop (with respect to the distance between camera and your object), and camera manually.

 

Hope this helps.

Fujifilm introduced Natura 1600 print film to go with its Natura S (24mm fixed, f1.9) point and shoot camera. I know the camera is only available in Japan; not sure about the film.

Mary:

 

Don?t freak out. I have a N80 myself and it is quite capable, if you have a good lens and external flash. I?d suggest you to get a Nikon SB-28 with a Sto-fen omni-bounce to eliminate hot spots. Fuji NPH (ISO 400) low-contrast print film is very nice for skin tone and they are less expensive than Kodak?s Portra.400.

 

Since you did not mention where (church, beach, etc.) the wedding will be, it would be hard to make a suggestion for the lens. Bear in mind that N80 only has one cross type auto-focus sensor in the center, in a dimly lit environment, your lens may hunt. I use N80 with Nikkor 24-85 3.5/4.5 AFS in a model workshop, it hunted in some conditions. You need to visit the actual place before hand to check out the light.

 

Not sure about FM3a; long time ago (>15 years), I used my FM2 with Kiron 28-105mm to shoot a wedding with a Soligor flash (I still have the set). I was guessing focus more than 50% of the time due to (1) slow lens and (2) dim room. Since I shot at f5.6 or f8, most of them turned out to be okay.

 

Forget about the TLR; it is just too slow for actions.

 

Just a thought.

 

Happy shooting film.

Gene, very nice pictures. I am curious that did you scan the prints or the negatives? What scanner did you use?

 

Thank you.

I think this is out your budget. There is a brand new film-based point-and-shoot super wide-angle camera introduced awhile ago by Fujifilm, called Natura S. It has 24mm lens and a super fast aperture at f1.9. It is only sold (~USD $320, I think) in Japan, thought. Fujifilm also introduced Natura 1600 color print film to go with the camera.

 

Imaging what you can do with 1600 and f1.9? Wow!

 

Cheers;