zm

I read there are different versions of this lens (not just F vs. FE), for instance the later version has cemented rear

elements.

 

Is there a place that describes the different versions? How many versions did Zeiss make and most importantly how

do you tell them apart?

 

Thanks.

I'm looking for a good slide projector without breaking the bank. I've kind of

settled on a Leica for 35mm. I'd love to buy Hasselblad PCP80 and have an

opportunity to buy one for $1,200 but don't really want to spend that much

money. I shoot both 6x6 and 35mm and would like to appreciate the slides thru

a projector instead of scanning them and viewing on computer. I read the

experience of projecting slides is amazing, as I've never really seen it.

 

From what I've read so far the Leica P series projectors, (which there seem to

be many models over the years), have straight trays vs. RT series have the

Kodak type round carousal.

 

Are there differences in projection quality between RT vs. P series, provided

they both use the same lens (colorpan 90/2.5)? I don't want to suffer from

the "weakest link" syndrome.

 

I just recently started shooting with slide film so I don't already have many

slides.

 

I found an RT-300 (with the colorpan 90 lens) for what I think is a reasonable

price $300. I read it's not really a Leica design nor made by Leica, but if it

breaks I'm thinking it's easier to fix. Should I go for it, or hold out to

find something in a P series? I see a few of them on the famous auction site,

but they seem very old and I'm clueless with respect to how old the various

models are. I don't really want to get something that's older than about 10

years.

 

Thanks for any advice.

I recently shot some velvia 100F and was wowed by what I saw. I shoot both

film & digital (6x6 & DSLR). I'm not a pro, so I don't handle film/camera

daily much less a variety of films. I just shoot films I've learned to like

thru trial & error, which so far is primarily Fuji Reala & Pro160S. (Haven't

tried 160C).

 

I shoot mainly landscapes and my family, well my 2yr old daughter mostly :)

 

Is there a direct comparison somewhere with Astia 100F vs. Provia 100F vs.

Velvia 100F vs. Velvia 100 (non-F) - same scene, same camera, lens, exposure,

such that the only variable is the film used?

 

I've often wondered why the likes of Fuji & Kodak have never done such a

comparison. All their literature just describes in words the differences, but

a picture is worth a thousand words, why not SHOW the difference? This ain't

rocket science. I would imagine quite a number of people would benefit from

such direct comparisons.

 

I know I could do the camparison myself, just looking if it's already been

done elsewhere.

 

Thanks.

I have a similar problem with my S3Pro but a Metz 54MZ3 with a SCA-3402 module. I get the flashing red lightning bolt in the viewfinder; the camera tells the flash aperature, iso and lens focal length, but the trigger won't fire no matter what settings I use. P, A, S, M and the Metz on either A or M. All combinations yield same problem - shutter won't fire. I wish it work work on atleast A mode.

What are good ways to deal with wrinkles in a backdrop?

 

I recently started taking portraits. I have a white and black

backdrops made of linen and sometimes the wrinkles show up in the

photos, especially the white. I thought the light would wash it out

or if I had the subject some distance from the background, that the

wrinkles wouldn't show, but especially on the white, shadows show

where the wrinkles are. It's not hideous but would be improved

without the wrinkles showing.

 

The backdrop is folded up for storage, no other way to do it.

 

For white, should I put a light on the backdrop itself to over

expose it and wash out the wrinkles?

 

Thanks, Zoran.

I have both the 42204 and the 42215 Acute-matte D focusing screens.

The 42204 came with my 503CW kit I bought used (ebay) and the 42215

I bought used also. Both screens have the little two notches in the

lower left corner indicating they're the D version. The 42215 came

with the original box also.

 

The 42204 has uniform brightness across the entire screen and is

very bright (good). The 42215 does not have the same brightness as

the 42204. Only the microprism and slit image circles are as bright

as the 42204, the rest of it is noticibly dimmer. I've often

wondered, is this normal for the 42215?

 

I mostly use the 42215, but wish it was as bright as the 42204

throughout the entire screen.

 

Thanks.

Thanks guys, I ended up taking it to Silvano's. They're open til 4pm on saturdays now so it's a bit more convenient to get there for me.

Recently acquired a used XPAN. For the Torontonians on this board.

Does anyone know of a lab that can process and print XPAN in the

Toronto area, other than Silvano's? Silvano's is a good lab, but

their hours and location are not very convenient for me, and

$1.50cdn a print is a bit high for my liking.

 

I've seen the list of labs on the hasselblad website for Xpan labs,

but Silvano's was the only one on the list for Toronto.

 

I'm in North York so something in North York is preferred. Actually

any lab, XPAN or not, in North York on the caliber of Silvano's or

Pheonix (Markham) with decent prices would be good to hear about

also.

 

Zoran.

It came back to life! I took the battery out and back in a few times and now it seems to be back to normal. The battery is not loose or anything. Strange.

I have a Minolta Flash Meter V that I think is now broken - it won't

power on. I recently bought the 5 degree spot attachment and used

both a couple days ago. Seemed to work fine. I guess I had the meter

on for a while so it auto shut-off and when I went to use it again,

it wouldn't power on.

 

I thought the battery went dead, but even with a fresh battery,

still no signs of life out of it. Display is completely blank.

Doesn't seem to be powering on.

 

Anyone have any tips to try before I take it to Minolta for service?

I'm kinda dreading the repair, figure it'll cost a couple hundred

bucks atleast. It doesn't even get much use and it's certainly not

banged up or abused, never been dropped. All the buttons seem fine,

including the battery compartment and battery contacts.

 

Thanks, Zoran.

I'm conteplating swapping my CF 50mm for some version of the 903/905

SWC with the 38mm Biogon, but since it's not a SLR nor rangefinder

and the little detached viewfinder isn't coupled, I'm wondering how

do you focus this puppy?

 

Also, how's the viewfinder in terms of a tool for composition?

 

Thanks, Zoran.

First off, I'm not a pro photographer, just shoot for fun. Couple

years ago I bought myself a Blad so I shoot 6x6. I'm noticing when I

take the film to get processed and have proofs made, the proofs have

jpg filenames on them. Usually on the back or bottom. So it seems

the lab is scanning the neg and printing a digital jpg on some kind

of digital machine. Am I right about this?

 

I recently got married and our wedding photographer shot with both a

Blad and Canon 10D. The Canon 10D proofs are far superior to the

Blad ones and again the proofs from film are jpg's. The film jpg's

simply lack detail even in the relatively small 5x5 size. I'm quite

disappointed about this.

 

I'm guessing the machine wasn't tweaked properly and the 10D jpg

straight from the camera was better than the film scan jpgs produced

by the lab's machine.

 

I suppose the digital age has forced labs to do everything in

digital, but are the digital machines used in these labs better or

as good as the old fashioned optical print? I don't think the

digital age has gotten that good just yet, but perhaps I'm wrong.

 

Would the final print also be digitally scanned from film producing

a jpg in which case I should expect a poorer photo from film vs. the

10D image? I hope not. Or would it depend on the lab?

 

I'm going to pay a visit to the lab the photographer used and have a

chat with them. It doesn't seem right that the 10D shots would be

better than the film. I know the photographer used Kodak portra. Not

sure of film speed, either 160 or 400, but even 400 I would expect

to outperform the 10D.

 

Any insight on what/how the labs do the printing would help with my

discussions with the photographer. I've had an absolutly terrible

experience with him so far for other reasons, but I'd like our final

wedding prints to be printed as best as possible.

 

Thanks, Zoran.

I have a 503CW Blad and the QR66 (Dennis Reggie sp?) Stroboframe

flash bracket. I like the bracket except that it's so difficult to

mount to the blad. I use the supplied screw and screw it into one of

the tripod mounts with a nickle. It's quite a cumbersome chore.

Nothing but frustrating when you're in a hurry. I'm not a Pro, so I

don't do it daily, not even weekly, and I do NOT keep the blad

permanently attached to the QR66.

 

How could man engineer such an awkward contraption?

 

Is there a better way? Without adding weight to it all and it still

being solid and sturdy.

 

Would like to hear how others deal with this.

 

Thanks, Zoran.

Does anyone have experience with a B60 to 62mm filter adapter?

 

I know people are using B60 to 67mm filter adapters successfully

(minus the lens shade not fitting), but I'm wondering if a B60 to

62mm adapter (they do exist) with a 62mm filter will cause

vignetting with lenses like 50mm, 80mm, 180mm (my current lenses).

 

I want to start collecting some filters and want to know if I should

stay away from the B60 to 62mm adapter combination.

 

TIA, Zoran.