eric_rayboy

FWIW: I did a little experimenting with the Canon close-up lens:

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/2287546

 

Results with the 43mm were acceptable, but I never used it.

I have a 622 Super and I measured the voltage at 1.5 volts ... several times ... with an analog voltmeter. But ... it's your camera.

According to the Rollei FAQ here:

http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Village/3762/Rollei/part-2-2.html#Family%20questions%20and%20other%20comments

 

You must set the exposure compensation off zero on the minus side ... recommended at -1/3 stop (and set the ISO at -1/3 stop to match and compensate). Then the flash will fire.

Get a Fuji GA645W.

 

Yes, it's a 645, but I blew up scans from the EPSON 4870 to 24"x24" (squared off) with no problem. Big plus is it's unobtrusive and auto everything, so you can shoot from the hip, over your shoulder, behind you, etc. As a wide angle, it gets everything and it's all in focus.

 

And, used ones are so cheap on eBay that you can buy it and try it for a few hundred. Then keep it if you like it or sell it back ... and it will end up costing nothing.

 

My $.02.

Voltage listing is here:

 

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

Didn't your 4870 come with SilverFast? It makes scanning slides/neg's a lot simpler.

 

I use 4800, and select the film to get a "tailored" scan exposure. P'shop then allows me to tailor the final file for printing (on a 7600).

 

B/T/W: I did scan a few 6x7 B&W neg's (shot with Pan F+) at 9600. Large files. Can't say if they were improved, but I felt that having the "extra information" (even if it is extrapolated) was better since I could perform noise reduction and still retain very high definition.

If the seller has a lot of transactions ( > 100 ) with a nearly perfect feedback rating, selling similarly priced items, then the auction has a "green light." Otherwise, caveat emptor ...

Not enough depth of field. I'm one of those who likes things sharp from ... here to there ... f/2 may be nice for portraits, but this needs f/22.

 

Just my $.02.

Plus diopters do have a magnifying effect. I use a +2 on my 7ii.

 

The 6 and 7 use the same diopters.

 

However, it may not help with focusing the 150mm. Just rotate the focus ring to the focus point and DO NOT rock it back and forth. (NOTE: It has a fairly shallow depth of in-focus distance at wider apertures.)

OT: You may find that with a wide angle lens, a polarizing filter gives mixed results since the light from the center is usually a bit different from that coming from the edges.

Best to buy Pshop v6 on eBay (cheap) and upgrade to CS.

Use the included SilverFast (as a capture tool in Photoshop). Otherwise, the EPSON AI software will do what IT wants, not what YOU want.

Contact Mamiya for repair of the winding mechanism ... if parts are available.

There is one type of B&W film ... The one you like. Buy several and experiment. You'll settle in one or two that work for your kind of shooting.

 

Remember, you can always shoot a film one or two stops above or below its normal exposure and still make it work with push/pull processing and post-processing Photoshop. So, just be comfortable with what you're doing and SHOOT AWAY.

 

PS: I like Ilford Pan F+, ISO 50.

Sepia tone the shot ...

Impressa works, but VELVIA's the one ...

 

Use a fill flash. It won't hurt the brights, just fill in the darks.

If you REALLY read about flash, then you came across the concept of GUIDE NUMBER ... GN = (distance) times (f/ stop) for ISO 100 film. So, if your flash has GN = 110, you can use f/11 at 10' ... or f/22 at 5' ... or f/5.6 at 20'. Exposure time (in a dark room) is relatively unimportant.

 

If you use ISO 400 film, the "effective" guide number doubles.

I apologize if others stated this, but I just jumped to the bottom ...

 

IF YOU USE THE SAME TYPE LENSES AND GET THE SAME SHARPNESS IN THE NEGATIVE, then a 6x7 negative (which is about 5+ times the area of a 35mm negative) will give 2 to 3 times better quality on larger blowups (sharper, less grain, better fidelity, etc.). The reason is simply that it requires less magnification to achieve the same result.

There is ONE viewfinder for the 43mm AND the 50mm lenses. It is rectangular in shape.

 

There is a second viewfinder for the 150mm AND 210mm lenses. It is cylindrical in shape.

 

A used viewfinder of either configuration is usually worth from $100 up to maybe $200 (mint, like new). Check eBay.

With a 622 Super, you won't be traveling light. However, you will be able to illuminate nearly any situation.

 

Distance? GN = 200 = (f/ stop) times (distance) for ISO 100. ISO 400 doubles the GN, effectively up to 400. So, with ISO 400, f/2 goes out to 200 feet while f/8 goes out to 50 feet. Please note that the zoom head has varying GN's for the different zoom settings.

 

Since you'll probably use the 622 with "A" (automatic setting), the flash will only use a small portion of it's charge on any shot, allowing for faster recycling times.

Earlier bodies do not have letters ... just squares, I think. Later ones say AE and AEL. Later ones and 6MF have the improved light baffling.

This response is NOT a flame request:

 

If you're gonna scan slides (on a flat bed especially), then over-expose slide film a half to a full stop to lighten up the shadows, and under-expose negative film to lighten the dark areas in the neg's. This enables the scanner to achieve greater detail in the dark areas of the scans and can be compensated for in Photoshop.

eBay.

Try a "chest-pod" or a shoulder/trigger set-up (like a rifle stock).

Try the EPSON 4870 ... by far their best effort to date. I regularly scan 6x7 VELVIAs at 4800dpi and B&W's at 9600dpi. Make some huge prints on a 7600.

 

YMMV.