reynold

I received a new dial, ironically from the same seller [didn't realise it when I bought it]. I have since tried both without success. As a test I would install the dial but I could not move the pin. In fact the older one moves the pin slightly, Something is holding it back. I don't want to try too hard lest I chip it. Perhaps it's not seated properly? It's just the dial with no washers, no release button, but it should work, shouldn't it? The selector moves easily when I push with a wooden stick.

Thank you; I'm afraid you might be right. The height seems OK, although I would never swear by my measurement -- had to use a toothpick to get the height and then took the measurement with calipers and also by placing alongside a ruler. Caliper said 0.89 and against the ruler it looks close to approximating 0.8 of a mm. However when I checked the pin it is silvered and worn. So much for buying on EBay. I could cannibalise a non-functioning A1 but I prefer not to. Can one find third-party new parts as one can for the battery door?

I examined the connection between the pin and the two arms, and contact is only at the top15%. So it's not deeply embedded in the channel between the two arms. Is this normal? I've colored the tips where contact is made. Could this be the cause of the pin slipping out?

Thank you denny_rane. I will definitely try your method the next time!

Thanks cmuseum, I followed your advice and jigged the prong left and right and saw the selection change. The movement was a bit sticky at first but I kept working it so moving to the left is fine. At first I thought moving to the right was difficult but I don't think so once I had jigged it a few times. At the end of its travel to the right it seems to "drop" I'm assuming into a catch. I checked the bottom side of the AvTv dial -- there are three "posts"; I presume the one nearest the white mark on the top of the dial is the relevant post. Yes, mine has seen better days to judge from the appearance --it was a replacement I bought on Ebay after destroying the original in my attempt to get it off--but I think it should still work. I can look for another on Ebay but there is never any guarantee that what i buy will be any better. Unless there is a third -party product.

Thanks cmuseuem. I've made a copy and will study your last two letters. I may have bit off more than I can chew. The camera was a functional one but obviously not in best condition. If I can't put it back into working order it will become my study model -- acquiring more of those!

I am having trouble using this forum! I replied several weeks ago but obviously it didn't take. What I stated was that I removed the top of the A1 again and looked for the switch, which I think I saw. but I don't see how it could touch the two terminals. The switch was pointing at eleven o'clock and the terminals at 7 -- if I am looking at the correct parts. The switch was abutting a screw I think [or pillar/post.] I tried gently to move it but I could not and did not want to force it. /home/reynold/Desktop/A1%20-%20REPLACE%20BATTERY%20DOOR/SWITCH%20AF-TM/SWITCH_0006.JPG

I left a reply but it obviously didn't take. After I replaced the battery door I couldn't fire the camera but I could test the battery by depressing the tester. I tried removing and adjusting the two prongs several times and at some time the camera stopped working. Battery is not dead. Also, I could feel the prong catch as I moved it to the right but when I tried to move it back it seemed to have slipped out. It never stayed in position.

Half step forward and one step backwards: Well, I went back to my A1 which has been sitting on my desk for a year --the battery door replaced but the AT-AV dial not connected. I found the slot and got the notch closest to the white marker to slip between, and I can now turn the dial. I also have a black washer below the dial, which I think was there originally. However, if I turn to TV fully the AV-TV selector slips out of position. I don't know how to adjust this other than not to turn the dial fully. The other catch is that the camera now does not work!

Hi Dirk, I'm hoping you are till reading this post. I think I did what you wrote. I found the switch: it has two prongs as in a "u" and pushing it moved the AT display. I even got it to move with the AT selector. However, it then sticks. So I have a few questions: 1. The AE mode selector has three small protrusions evenly spaced. Am I correct to think that the middle one must fall between the two prongs? 2. The switch [two prongs] are at the base of the "well". Should they be higher, that is, did I somehow push it down?

My deepest apologies Dirk. I never received a notice that anyone had replied to my query. I had left the camera in its plight until today, and then I had the bright idea to search again on the web -- having forgotten that I had written to the forum! Will do as you have written. Thanks again for replying!

I was replacing the battery door on my A1 according to the You tube instructions in "Fix an Old Camera" series. I got the door on but when I went to test the camera if would not fire. Meanwhile I noticed that the Av-tv dial is loose. I can't move to Av successfully. I suspect that it is the source of the problem, namely a mechanical error. Has anyone any experience in re-installing the Av-Tv dial? Thanks for any help!

<p>Hi Flavio,<br> Yes, I know it's risky, but the camera was bought as a door stopper to be used for just such an action. IF [and that's a big one] I succeed to put it all back again <em><strong>and it works</strong></em>, that would be a day to ring the bells. Nonetheless I am learning a lot about the Canon Ae1, and I also intend to do all the necessary oiling just in case it works.<br> One thing I did discover was that there is a risk of putting excess oil because there are two slots through which the oil can reach the mirror.<br> Right now I am learning about all the parts and how they work when a photo is taken.<br> Thanks for your interest,<br> Reynold</p>

<p>Well, I'm glad to announce that I finally got the mirror cage off. After un-soldering the wires as instructed by the National Camera Repair I couldn't remove the cage and so I left it on my desk and would return for the odd jiggling. Success came when I used two thin strips of plastic cut from an old Visa card to lift the land over the LED pins. I don't think I broke or tore anything but time will tell. It was a good learning experience.<br> Reynold</p><div></div>

<p>Thank you Flavio. As I stated, when it comes to my precious A1s I may well follow Alan's and/or your suggestions.</p> <p>Reynold</p>

<p>Thanks Michael. Perhaps when I get to oiling my usable A1s I'll play safe and use the syringe, but on my practice dead AE1 I want to open it up. I have nothing to lose and lots to learn.</p> <p>Reynold</p>

<p>Truth is, Ben, I am an amateur and a dabbler, and getting more interested in the machinery than in their use. If there were courses on camera repair in my city I would take them, but there aren't.</p> <p>Reynold</p>

<p>Thank you Alan. I have used the syringe method with, I think, a positive result, but I just don't feel comfortable if I can't see what I am doing. That is why I want to do it the 'correct" way.<br> Your point is well taken -- if there had been a different way National would have described it. So in the coming weeks I will try to open up to the mirror cage. If nothing else it will be an exploration into the unknown for me! I'm hoping this exercise will guide me when I tackle the "good" cameras, or I'll chicken out and use the syringe.<br> Thanks again, Alan for your advice.</p> <p>Reynold</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice, but it doesn't answer my question on the need to remove the mirror cage completely. Besides, as I stated, I have too many FD cameras needing service.</p>

<p>Thanks JDM and Rick.<br> Good advice JDM about the minimal amount of lubricant. Also thanks Rick about the warning concerning different lubricants. Will clean and remove before re-lubricating.<br> I guess Rick, hope remains eternal, and I keep thinking that just maybe the camera can be "saved", and hence the original question: do I really have to remove the cage in order to lubricate its parts?<br> But as your reply reminded me, I have to remember why I first bought it: to practise on it.<br> <br />Reynold</p>

<p>Hi Mark and Gordon.<br> I replied to both of you but I obviously didn't hit the correct key, so here goes again. The camera I'm working on is a dud, so no harm in trying to open it up. Besides, I have so many FD cameras that I could never afford to have them all repaired. And how would I know if the repairman used the syringe method or opened up the camera and did a full job?</p> <p>Thanks Gordon for the links. I found the photo of the damper very useful as well as the link to the tops of the cameras.<br> Reynold</p> <p>Reynold</p>

<p>Thanks, JDM, but how could this be since the squeak suggests a dried-out part? Anyway, I want an excuse to go "into" the junk camera! But the correct way, of course.</p> <p>Reynold</p>

<p>Hi,<br> I want to oil the gear in the mirror assembly in a dead AE1 as practice. Also, I don't want to use the "quick" syringe method, which I have done on another camera.<br> According to the National Camera Repair notes I have to remove the <strong>front plate and mirror cage</strong>. Is this really necessary if I am only going to oil the gear and any other parts? In other words, instead of going from one extreme to another is there a middle way? I can understand removing the cage if I am going to replace parts, but just to oil and lube the components?<br> If push comes to shove I will attempt to unsolder all the wires as prescribed, but it seems a lot to do just to oil the gears in the mirror assembly. <br> Any advice will be gratefully received.<br> Thanks,<br> Reynold</p>

<p>Thanks Glen.<br> I charged the battery pack for 7.5 hours. No calculation here, just panic. Unfortunately when I plugged the charger into the pack I didn't really observe the light. I thought it went <strong>red</strong>, but when I went back after 4.5 hours it was <strong>flashing red</strong>. I didn't know if this meant it was charging, or the charging was complete. So I left it for 3 more hours and then unplugged it because I was afraid of overcharging. I asked a friend who has such a Canon charger and he said that the light should go <strong>green</strong>. I know this is what happens with my G3, but I didn't know if the old MA charger would do the same.<br> My friend thinks that with NimH, the batteries have a "memory" and will not fully re-charge until I run the batteries flat a few times. Next time I will be more observant when I start.<br> Even if the battery pack is half charged that should be 30 rolls, which is a lot for me.</p>