wannabe

I had the same thing...I experimented with different cameras, cards, reader, etc. Finally, I got a new computer...I am still using the same camera, cards, and card reader but the problem went away.

I solved my problem by getting a new computer. Everything else...the CF cards, readers, cameras remained the same but the problem disappeared.

I have both of these lenses and they share a EW-63 II with no problem...although the prime is in my bag most of the time and the zoom is left at home.

Thank you everyone for your responses! Bob & Andrew, you were both correct. I had the highlight tone priority enabled. (BTW, I LOVE this camera!)

How do I set my 40D to ISO3200 or H?

 

I read, re-read, then re-re-read my manual. I used the custom function to

expand the ISO, but I can only get to "H" ISO in the C1/C2/C3 modes. It is the

same as ISO 100. I can get down to ISO 200, then the camera goes to

ISO "Auto". I can get to ISO 100 only in the C1/C2/C3. Is this how the 40D

works or am I missing something?

 

Thanks in Advance!

I have mine on order at Adorama. I bypassed the 20d & 30d, but I am going for the 40D because I like to shoot sports. For gymnastics (indoor/no-flash), I am pushing H(3200) at 1/125 with a 50/1.4 and 85/1.8. I am lucky if 4%-5% of my shots are good. The NR software helps, but I am also limited by the 10D buffer ... I am constantly waiting for the camera to catch up.

 

For baseball and soccer, the 10D was fine in the bright outdoors until we started playing games at dusk. I will push to 800ISO, but anything higher is really noisy. The 6.5 fps would have helped me tonight to see if one of our boys really was out at 3rd. I got the shot just before and just after our boy slid into 3rd. (I thought he was safe.)

 

If it weren't for gymnastics and dusk games, I would have probably stick with my 10Ds and gotten the 70-200 2.8 instead. I'll wait for when my son starts playing baseball at night for that. I am not sure I am ready to bring out the heavy, huge white "cannon" at little league and U12 soccer yet. As it stands, I'm already known as the camera lady with the "tiny" little black 75-300.

Did anyone notice the link to the 40D at Bestpricecamera.com for only $799? What's the catch?

Where are you all preordering your 40D? I've been patiently waiting with my 10D for this moment! I just checked all my favorite websites to no avail.

Thanks Jon and Robin!

 

I am hoping that the culprit is the card reader since that is much cheaper to replace...although if the problem is the 10d, well, shuck, I may have to get that 5d, 30d, or whatever/whenever their replacements come out.

 

I just wanted to put this out there to see if it is common and/or to find out what it's called. I tried to search the previous postings, but I didn't know what keywords to search for.

Does anyone know what this is called and/or how I can fix it?

 

Lately I've been getting this more and more with my 4 year old 10D. I don't

even know how to describe it. But I get this in about 1 in 100 shots. I

never had this before and I take atleast a 1000-3000 shots a month.

 

I get this with any of my lenses and any of my compact flashes. Could it be

my card reader or camera? I just went back to my compact flash card and the

original photo is just fine.<div></div>

Hey Eric~Where did you send/take your lenses to get calibrated?

Thanks Greg,

 

I have the book by Glen Johnson and Bambi Cantrell. I love their work! That is part of the reason I have been contemplating the 70-200. It is interesting that you mention that the grain shows on screen but not in print. I have been very disappointed with a lot of my images because of the grain that I can't seem to avoid even at ISO100. I've been wondering if it is my monitors, but then again, I look at everyone else's images on the same monitor and it is tack sharp! I will assume it's my error and keep trying, but in the meantime, I will print more of my images to see the results.

Thanks Everyone!

 

Based on all responses, I have decided to keep practicing with my consumer 75-300. I spent the day with this lens at 135 or 200. Without the zooming thing to distract me, I found myself concentrating more on focusing. I have gotten some fairly sharp pictures (to use Jim's words.) Yes, there is a large factor of user error here for me. In the handful of weddings I shot, I was able to get close enough that my 85/1.8 should be long enough for now. If not, I will use my feet or creativity to get the shot.

Do you do weddings without a 70-200?

 

I have a 50/1.4, 50/1.8, 85/1.8, and 17-40/4.0 I use for side jobs along with

two 10Ds, a 580ex, and a 550ex. I use a consumer 75-300 non IS for my kids

outdoor sports but it is no longer as impressive now that I've seen what

primes can do.

 

Because I usually kill 2 birds with one stone and buy photography equipment I

can use for both my side jobs and for my kids, IF most wedding photographers

live without the extremely HUGE and conspicuous 70-200 (4.0, 2.8, 2.8IS) then

I would probably replace the 75-300 with another prime...100, 135, 200, 300.

(I still need to determine what focal length I use the most.) BUT, if the 70-

200 is a MUST have for weddings, then I'm just going to have to save up and go

for the 70-200 2.8IS. (Can you imagine whipping out this HUGE lens at soccer

for 6 and 7 year olds?)

 

Thanks in advance!

Robert, I just checked our weather forecast and you may get lucky and get some nice cloudy shade if the shot is some time this week...you may want to have an alternate site if it rains...it is raining as I type this. I'm not sure your 3 shots without flash will do you any good. I would stick with flash for all 6 shots.

Ditto to Mary. I like and have 4 Bryan Peterson books and 3 Scott Kelby Books. I carry at least one or two every day to read during lunch or whenever I can steal a moment to continuously learn more.

I have been using proshow gold for 3 years and I love it. Very easy to use with no learning curve. The only negative part for me is that for some reason, I need to turn off my virus protection when I'm ready to burn the dvd. If I leave on the virus protection, the dvd burn fails. Other than that, I love the recent enhancement that allows multiple layers along with the previous enhancement that allows you to visually splice your music. (It made vanilla "ice ice baby" go really smoothly into queen's "under pressure":)

I noticed that Sto-fen sells a green omni bouncer. Does this work the same as "gel"ing the flash? Anyone try it?

Mark--Interesting. where can you get an IR filter for a flash? Is it a gel thing?

Thanks for the responses! (I figured that body doesn't matter, but I had to try anyway)

 

Unfortunately, I can't quite afford the 1.2/1.0 nor could I afford the ff body just yet. (But I'm still waiting anxiously to see what Canon is releasing soon.)

 

I've been also studying all the other gymnastics shots and noticing that unless the venue has pretty good lighting, no one else stops that full twisting layout too often either. I guess I'll just keep practicing and experimenting.

 

Thanks!

Would the same lens (50/1.4) on a different body let in more/less light?

 

I'm shooting low light no flash gymnastics. I have a 50/1.4 and 85/1.8. It

doesn't get that much faster than that...i think.

 

The other day, I shot at 3200 iso, 1.4, and got only 1/500 shutter speed at

best. It's not enough to stop the full twisting layout. Would a different

body to stop the action with these lenses?

I shot "Gymnastics in Paradise" but not nearly as well lit as Alex's. Alex--what body, lens, iso, noise reduction software, etc. are you using? I am assuming no flash.

Thanks Everyone for the input!

 

(Sorry for the delayed response. I spent an extended weekend on the Big Island of Hawaii where I didn't have internet or cell phone signal. It was great!)

 

I didn't make any purchase yet. I inquired with the castleman website to see if he was willing to share some of his knowledge or to vote on his favorite gymnastics shooting lens.

 

I'll be haunting these forums more and practicing at the gym while the girls practice. I'll also be following all the past posts of noise reduction debates. Noise Ninja and Noiseware are looking good to me right now...

 

Anyway, I just wanted to say Thanks!

Hi Rainer,

 

Thanks for the fast response!

 

If the Sigma 30/1.4 HSM is for crop bodies only, do you get "true" 30? or is it 48 with the 1.6 crop factor? Because on my 10D, a 28/1.8 would give me about a 45, right?

 

If I do get the 28/1.8 lens, for an upcoming group shot, I will probably have my 17-40 on one 10D with the 550ex and the 28/1.8 on the other 10D with the 580ex. I'm probably going at f/11 for both bodies.

 

Thanks,

Janis

I'm thinking of getting the 28/1.8 for my 10D mainly for my daughter's

gymnastics (low light no flash) Depending on the event/location, I plan to

keep either the 28/1.8, 50/1.4, or 85/1.8 on 2 bodies and shoot hopefully

without choking myself too much. Has anyone else tried this or got good

results with something else? I really need the faster lens since the 10Ds are

so grainy at ISOs 800 and above. Should I go for the 28/1.8 with the extended

canon rebate? Or should I wait, save money for a year or so and go for the 24-

70/2.8 and a better body that can handle the higher ISOs as 2.8?

 

p.s. I do side jobs just to support this lens lust habit and was hoping to

justify the 28/1.8 purchase by using it for group shots, birthday parties,

weddings as 2nd shooter, etc.