vivid light photography

I second the recommendation for the Nikon 24-85 f2.8-4.0 AFD for just about everything. This was my first lens with my D100 and after using it on a D200 and now D300 it's ever better. Mine is very sharp from 45mm to 85mm. Even after purchasing several other lenses (50mm f1.4 AFD, 60mm f2.8 AFD, 85mm f1.4 AFD, 80-200 f2.8 AFD) it still gets used about 80% of the time. I even tried the 35-80mm f2.8 AFS and the new 24-80mm f2.8 AFS and other than wide open at the 24mm focal length my 24-85mm was sharper. Yes sharper; at least from a subjective point of view. And now with being able to fine tune adjust the focus per lens on my D300 it seems even sharper at +8 adjustment. I would not hesitate for the price going for this lens. Great value and even though it's not a "Pro" lens the build quality has seemed pretty good to me. I've owned mine for 5 years with no problems. Knock on wood.

I've been using a Nikon SB-800 with the Photoflex Small LiteDome Q39 for several years. I use it mainly outside for fill light or key light when needed. My issue has been that I usally need to fire at 100% to get my aperature to f5.6 but recently started using an 85mm f1.4 AFD to for sharper images and better shallow DOF. At 2.8 or lower I can reduce the output to 1/2 or 1/4 but then my challenge still is balancing the background if it's to bright out. I recently bought the Medium size for headshot use with my Profoto Compact 600's but tryed it with my SB-800's outside and found that I get a slightly better shadow edge with no noticable light falloff compaired to the small softbox. It works nice for a couple or family of four or less. I like to always use a small or medium softbox even if I turn it way down so I get decent catch lights. I find it easier to control then a reflector.

Ok. The first issue I mentioned were I had a completely black image is possible a fluke. I actually looked at the image after downloading and it was during my sons baseball game and not my daughters soccer. There is a very very slight lightness in the upper right corner, otherwise it is totally black. I do remember while shooting I had one of the kids walk passed me so close that he blacked out my viewfinder while I was shooting. This may be what happened even though I tried to reproduce it with my hand and I still got some exposure. Maybe the exposure was locked and just as he walked in front of me the shutter fired before the exposure readjusted. I do remember now he was so close I thought he may have hit my lens but I felt nothing.

 

The other issue during a shoot several days later was a blinking "err" message on my LCD with a locked shutter release until I turned the camera off and then on as well as removed the lens and put back on. The image was recorded and the shutter didn't jam but just wouldn't fire again. I wasn't able to reproduce it afterwards with any of my five lenses and it never happened up to that point. My battery was about 1/3 charged and I was firing two pocket wizard slaved flashes with a pocket wizard transmitter on the hotshoe. Since then I've cleaned the lens contacts and mounts on both my camera and lenses with pec pads and eclipse fluid. I also cleaned the battery contacts on both the camera and all four batteries I use. Each battery when fully charged indicates so with the battery check and each indicates that it is new. I used the first three with my D200 before I sold it since I needed them. Now I just rotate them. I'm hoping this was just a one time electronic interuption or glitch and not a future shutter mechanism problem. I've had to send both my D100 and D200 in for service in the past and don't really like doing so.

 

Thanks for the responses and more are welcome.

I have a D300 that was purchased new in March and have noticed a couple of odd

things recently. The other day I was shooting my daughters soccer with an 80-200

AFD lens in Continuouis focus and 6FPS speed. After one burst of shoots I

noticed later while previewing that one was frame was totally black. Not just

underexposed but black. Frame number and exif data was there. Also, no error

messages in the lcd and camera didn't lock up. I thought no problem, maybe just

a minor one time glitch while the file was being written or something like that. We

are dealing with complex electronic gagets here.

 

But yesterday while shooting Church Confirmation Photo's during a paid photo

shoot my camera all of a sudden locked up and would not fire. I was using my 24-

85 AFD lens with autofocus and manual metering. The image displayed but was

slightly overexposed or it seemed. I turned the camera off, removed the lens, put

the lens back on and turned the camera on. It happened again on the next shot.

So I did this again and everything worked fine for the remainder of the shoot I tried

to replicate this later at home but could not.

 

Has anyone else had this happen to there D300. I've shoot this camera with a

50mm f1.4 AFD, 85mm f1.4 AFD, 80-200 f2.8 AFD. 60mm f2.8 AFD micro, and 24-

85 f2.8-4.0 AFD with no problems until now. The lens mount isn't as tight as my

D200 was but the lenses do not move side to side any more than my D200 or

D100 did. I'm going to clean the lens contacts and bayount mounts on both the

camera and lenses with pec pads and eclipse fluid in hope that it's just oily or dirty

contacts but was looking for feedback from other D300 users with same or similer

issue.

 

Thanks.

I recently purchased a new D300 and notice that after sitting in my camera bag

for a couple days or more the rear command dial is just a little tighter to

rotate for the first click or two then it's ok from that point on. I think I

noticed this right out of the box as well but can't remember for sure. The

front command dial does not do this. I figure it may be the weather seal that

may just need to be worn in a little or something like that. Like I said it's

just a little tight; not bound up or anything. It's not a big deal since it

doesn't stay like that but am concerned it may be a issue that may become worse

over time.

 

Anyone else notice this on your D300? Thanks.

 

Thanks.

Has anyone tried just temporaily disabling their antivirus software while working on photos to see if that helps. I know that with Mcfee you can disable the realtime checks but still leave the email scan on. The realtime scan is alwaying checking everything you do and can use up a lot of memory.

Hello everyone,

 

I just purchased a used Nikon FE from Adorama supposably in excellent +

condition. It was my first camera purchased over 20 years ago. I ended up

selling it only after about two years of owning it for money and always

regreated it. I now shoot all digital with a D100 and D200 but wanted to

replace my first camera for nolstagic reasons and just play around with some

film again for fun. I've been told that I can use my current Nikon AFD leneses

with it but wanted to check first. My concern would be messing up the contacts

on my AFD lenses. Has anyone out there used AFD lenses with an older FE. What's

your experience. Thanks.

Thanks everyone for the feeback. Since it sounds like a relatively easy fix and a common problem I will be sending it back under warrenty. I can part with it for several weeks if needed since I just purchased the Nikon 85mm f1.4 for doing shooting my portraits both inside and outside.

I have a Nikon 80-200mm f2.8 AFD IF lens that I've owned for about three years

with a five year warrenty. Just recently I noticed the Auto/Manual switch

(rotating ring type) has a very small crack acrossed it next to the screw that

holds it in place. I've been the only owner and it's never been bumped,

dropped, etc. I'd like to send it back while it's still under warrenty but a

little nervious since it looks like they may have to really pull the lens apart

a lot to replace it. Has anyone else seen this problem on yours and what's your

experience with Nikon repair in regards to lenses. Is this an easy repair for

them or a complete disassembly. I really don't use the manual setting very

often and it's not falling off or anything but would like to get it fixed.

 

Thanks.

Michael,

 

I just discovered the same exact issue with my D200, Pocket Wizards, and Profoto 600 compacts. At 1/250th I get a darker edge at the top of my image. I discoverd this during a headshot shot and thought at first I was casting a shadow and played with my light position for over fifteen minutes. My customer was quickly loosing confindence in me. On a wim I tried 1/200th and everything was fine. I haven't looked into it yet but I believe it's my Pocket Wizards and not my lights. I think I rememeber now something about max shutter speed with them stated somewhere. Just the same I'm glad to understand now that it's not my camera and something I have to keep in mind. I haven't noticed this at all using my SB800's outside for fill with the Pocket Wizards.

I just recently purchased a new Nikon 85mm f1.4 AFD lens and noticed while

attaching it to my D200 the little platic window with the focal distance

markings moves side to side slightly in it's setting. For and aft its fine. Not

a big deal since I rarely if ever use it and it's not falling out or anything

but I looked at all my other Nikon lenses I own and they're all very tight and

don't move. The lens seams to be quite sharp although just slightly soft wide

open as expected but I'm on the fence whether to exhange it or not. Has anyone

else noticed this little plastic window being loose on one or more of you

lenses; Nikon or other? Call me picky but for $1100+ the lense should be close

to perfect IMO.

 

Thanks.

Thanks everyone for your responses. I know, I was asking several questions at once. The thing is I've been doing a lot of outdoor family shoots the last several years and find that I get my best results with my 80-200 f2.8 AFD. However, I usually end up using some amount of flash to get good subject/background exposure balance and also end up having to slow my shutter speed down to the point that the 200mm focal length is harder to control with camera shack even when using a tripod. I'm finding I'm loosing a lot of great expressions and shots fiddling with the tripod. I shoot with an SB800 with and without a small soft box and find myself having to us 1/1 full power more often than not to get my aperture up to 4.5-5.6 so this lens is at it's sharpest. If I shoot wide open then they go a little soft. So I was thinking maybe the 85mm f1.4 AFD to allow me to soften the background a little more and allow me to open up my aperture a little more and reduce the amount of flash power I need; as well as speed up my shutter speed. If I need to get close I'll just have to physically move in. When I shoot headshots or 3/4 shoots inside I can get away with my 80-200 because I use Profoto 600 compacts and get more light than I need and end up shooting between f5.6 and f9 with terrific result. But I'm considering the 85mm as an outdoor portrait lens to use instead of my 80-200.

 

Now the other issue I included in my first question was I had tried a 28-70mm f2.8 AFS overnight and did an apples to applies test on tripod of the two and found the my 24-85 better except wide open at f2.8 and I think the 28-70 sample I had was backfocsing slightly so I returned it. I purchased it because I really like the zoom capability of my 80-200 and thought if I had the same with the 28-70 it would give me some flexiblity when shooting it tighter conditions of I wanted to keep closer camera to subject distance.

 

Since I have a 50mm f1.4 I thought maybe if I purchased the 85mm f1.4 this would give me more options to shoot either with no flash or less flash and possibly hand held if needed and still have two useful focal lengths for either group shots, close up portrait, and in between.

 

I really would like both if I could get a good sample of the 28-70 but can't afford both right now. Also theirs the fact that the 24-70 AFS is comming out really soon but B&H is pricing at $1699.

I've been using my trusty 80-200mm AFD lens to take portraits for several years

now but find that when inside I don't always have room and at f2.8 it's a

little soft. I was considering getting the covited Nikon 85mm f1.4 AFD IF since

I've heard such good things about it. I have a 24-85mm f2.8-4 AFD that actually

is sharper than a 28-70mm f2.8 AFS lens I tried. I was also considering waiting

for the new 24-70 f2.8 AFS G lens that's soon to come out. Also I should

mention that I do have a 50mm f1.4 AFD that I can use inside when conditions

get tight or outside for group shots even though I tend to use the 80-200 and

24-85 more often.

 

Who has used the Nikon 85mm f1.4 AFD and what is your opinion. I like the 24-70

range for use in getting candids of kids and adults as well as a wedding lens

but I don't need to spend $1600 on another lens that's not going to give me

much more than my current 24-85. However, the 85 f1.4 in theory should allow me

to shoot faster with available light and use less fill flash; right?

 

Another question. Would I expect the depth of field at 2.8 to be the same on

the 85mm f1.4 as I would on my 80-200 f2.8 at 80mm? I would expect the 85mm at

2.8 to be sharper then the 80-200. Whats your experience and opinion.

 

Thanks.

Thanks for the quick responses gentlemen. I do post process my images about 99% of the time; something I've been doing with my D100 since I purchased it. So once I'm done with post processing my D200 images I'm mostly pleased but I guess I thought I'd would see a bigger difference. Nice to know about the softer images are not a focus issue or vibration issue.

Sent them back to Profoto and they fix them up just fine. Now when I insert the power cord the rear control panel does not deflect. Not sure what they.

Just curious on anyone elses experience going from a D100 to a D200. I read all

the hype about exceptional image quality, build, etc. but am not seeing

exceptional image quality difference. Here is my experence. I notice that the

color rendition is more accurate on my D200, the auto focus is faster and

quiter, the metering is more accurate (especally with flash), and I like the

larger LCD. All welcome updates. However, I'm not seeing a huge difference in

image quality. Maybe my expectations are to high but the thing I notice between

my D100 vs. my D200 is that the D100 images look sharper out of the camera with

all the settings set the same(WB, normal contrast, no sharpening, etc.) I did a

test with the same lenses and shooting on a tripod at 1/100th of a second and

various apertures and like I said the D100 images look crisper. Although if I

add sharpening to both and include about twice the amount to the D200 images

they look about the same relative to sharpness. But here is were the D200

images are just a notch above. When I view at 100% or print 8x10 or larger I

can notice the D200 images look just a little better. My D200 images seem just

a little softer than my D100 out of the camera.

 

Now what got me concerned about my D200 images being less sharp out of the

camera then my D100 was the fact that I have this vibrating, solinoid sound

after the shutter closes and the mirror returns. You can feel it in the camera

body. Also notice this if I just press the DOF preview button as well. I was

thinking maybe this was introducing some unwanted vibration causing the images

to be just a bit less sharp than expected. On the otherhand its after the

shutter closes so it shouldn't but maybe when shooting at continuous high

speed. I've looked at two other D200's in stores and each does it to varying

degrees.

 

I like my D200 but was expecting more. Am I being unrealistic. Anyone else have

the same experence or thoughts?

 

Thanks.

I've tried both the 50mm f1.4 and 60mm f2.8 micro for portraits and have found the 60mm to be to sharp or even to contrasty. It especally showed up using with my D200 were I used to shoot with the D100. The 50mm 1.4 is great for low light and group portraits but I really like my 80-200 f2.8 AFD for indvidual portraits and close-ups. Good luck.

Can anyone else who owns any Profoto Compact 600 lights tell me if they've

noticed this.

 

I have two and when I push the power cord into one of them the bottom half of

the rear control panel deflects inward as much as 1/8 of an incch within the

plastic housing. It pulls back into its normal position when you pull to remove

the cord but this does not seem normal. However, since it looks as if the panel

is only held on with two screws, one in the three oclock and one in the nine

oclock position I don't want to assume the expense of shipping them back if

this is normal. My second light does it slightly but not nearly as bad as the

other. They work fine but over time seems like the panel could crack possibly.

 

Thanks for any help suggestions.

 

Darrell Irwin

I've been shooting with a new D200 for about two months now with no problems

but today I was shooting my daughters soccer game and later while viewing the

images on the camera LCD noticed one image from a sequence of five shots taken

in continous mode was corrupt. I've included the image. I was shooting at f5,

1/1250 of a second, ISO 250, AF-C, Preset WB, RAW, center weighted metering,

etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. I had no other images corrupt like this

before or during the rest of the game. The corrupt shot was image #29 out of

#123. I thought maybe I turned the camera off while it was writing from the

buffer since I do this by habit sometimes and since I was shooting RAW it would

have been writing for a much longer time. However, on page 27 from the D200

manual it say's that if the power is turned off while writing it will finish

writing to the card before powering down. Again, I don't remember turning it

off but may have. Also was using a Lexar 4GB 133x WA card. I have three I

purchased since I got my D200 and have never had a problem with any of them as

of yet. I also have six Lexar 1GB WA cards used with my D100 and never had a

problem with them either.

 

Has anyone else seen or had a corrupt image that looked this and if so do you

know what happened. I'm hoping it's a one time thing but of course am concerned.

 

Thanks.<div></div>

Can anyone explain the reason and use of the added color space setting on the

D200 custom menu? My D100 only had the color mode (I, II, III) selections

available. I understand the difference between the color modes but am not sure

why the addition of the color space custom setting. If color mode I and II are

sRGB then do I set my D200 color space option on the custom menu to sRGB? Do I

set the option to Adobe RGB if I'm using color mode II? Whey the separate color

space setting and how does it interact with the color mode settings?

 

I've read other posts but all they explain is the differecne in gamut,

contrast, etc. and usually only explain the difference between the color mode

settings. I'm still confused why I need to select the color space in addition

now with my D200 vs. my D100.

Does anyone know if it's safe to use sensor swips and eclipse fluid to help

remove dust specs off the underside of the LCD overlay (glass plate that has

the grid lines and focus point indicators) that the focusing screen lays up

against on the D200. I've tried to clean out some dust between the focus screen

and this surface by removing it and have a couple that won't blow off with a

rocket blower. You can still see them with the screen removed.

 

Thanks.

I'm probably not the first to do this but while attempting to clean the dust

out on my D200 from between the focusing screen and si plate I accidently

dropped the screen and scratched it. Not a big deal since I was able to get a

replacement from Nikon parts for about $12; another $0.50 for the shim as well.

However, I looked through the viewfinder without the focus screen and noticed a

couple specs that are in focus with the si plate which has the LED focus

position indicators and grid lines on it. I tried to remove them with a rocket

blower but could not. I also tried using a sensor brush but that did not work

either.

 

Does anyone know if it's safe to use a wet swip method to clean the si plate

similar to cleaning a sensor to remove dust that will not come of with a

blower. It looks as if it may be some sort of glass but I'm not sure. I have a

home made tool for cleaning my sensor that is a flat piece of plastic (shaped

from an office cubical name plate) that I wrap pec pads over. I have an extra

and could heat and put a 45 degree bend in the tip to make access easier.

 

I know that any dust between the focus screen/viewfinder and on the mirror

doesn't effect the image but since I'm putting a new screen in I was going to

try and get all the dust off I could. Seems from what I've read online and in

various forums once you pull the focus screen out it's very difficult to put

back in without some amount of dust.

 

I appreciate any constructive feedback. Thanks.

Thanks guys for the feedback. I just got back from trying a couple of my lenses on another D200 at my local camera shop and no differnce than the new body Nikon sent. I must have noticed it more since I was going over the new body with a fine toothed comb this time. Everything seems normal and I'm ready to stop fussing and start shooting again.

 

Thanks.

Good day everyone.

 

I recently purchased a D200 and had issues with the auto focus selector switch

(CSM)being a little loose. I sent it back to Nikon twice and it was not fixed

properly. The third time I sent it back they sent me a new replacement. The CSM

switch is much stiffer and does not move very easily off the S positon now on

the new one. However, with the new replacement it seems that there is more

vibration from the mirror returning after the shutter than the one replace. I

may just be imagining it but I didn't notice it as much with the first sample I

had. I tried using mirror lock-up and there is very little if any vibratiion

from the mirror going up but after the shutter fires I can feel it. It's also

different on different lenses. I notice very little on my 60mm micro and 50mm

but notice much more with my 80-200 attached. With my 24-85 I notice it more

zoomed in to 80mm and less zoomed out to 24mm focal length. I also notice that

after releasing the aperture preview button it's quite noisy as well.Does this

seem normal to any other D200 owners/users out there? I compaired by D100 with

all my lenses attached and noticed that the mirror return was quiter and more

consistant from lens to lens but the mirror up noise before the shutter fires

is much more noiser and with more vibration that my D200. I understand that

there is varibility from camera to camera but does this sound normal to anyone?

What are your experiences with you D200's relative to mirror slap and

vibrations?

 

Thanks.

Dan,

 

I've used both Lexar 1GB 40x and 80x WA cards with my D100 with no problem when the only one listed by Nikon at the time was the 40x. I now have a D200 and have been using the Lexar 4GB 133x WA cards also with no problem. In fact, all my Lexar cards work on either my D100 or D200. Keep in mind if you format a card in one camera and then use it in another you should format again for that camera. I also notice a slight decrease in download time from my lexar firewire reader to my computer but I just attested that to the larger file sizes. It still works faster then what I need.