vivid light photography

<p>Anyone have a install key/serial number for NIK Color Efex Pro 3.0 Complete Edition for Capture NX2 you are not using and willing to sell. I would like to update to 64bit version of Capture NX2 but only have NIK CE Pro 2.0 and it will not work with 64bit NX2 version. I need either a number that is not registered or are willing to transfer to my NIK account. Nik will approve as they sent me a form to have the seller complete. I tried everywhere (online, local camera shops, etc) but I cannot find it anywhere.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>I cleaned both sensors with exclipse and sensor swabs for first time since I purchased the cameras just prior to checking. I had suspected something was not wright because sometimes my images seemed warmer then expected and until now I just grabbed one of the camera's and didn't pay much attention to which one. I don't think it's from cleaning the sensors but you never know and the mirror wouldn't affect the image. I'm going to have to do a test again and try it outside without using flash. Maybe the TTL metering affected the flash output and WB somehow.</p>

<p>Same firmware, both shot in RAW. I adjusted both images in Nikon Capture NX2 so the exposure was as close as possible by eye and histogram. Did three different test shoots and same results. Camera #1 is slightly cooler in WB than Camera #2. When I get home I'm going to do the test again outdoors without a flash with a grey card again. Maybe I'm getting a variation with the flash output based on TTL metering from one camera to the other. We'll see.</p>

<p>Michael,<br>

I am using the same lens and shooting one camera after the other. The only thing I can think of is maybe I'm getting a variation in the flash output. But I've done the test over several times and I get the same results. Camera 1 has slightly cooler tint to Camera 2 which has a slightly warmer tint. I've double checked all the settings, picture controls, everything, and they are set up exactly the same.</p>

<p>I have two different D300's that I use semi-professionally with around 27k and 17k shutter releases on them. Both have been cared for very well, are in excellent condition, and never had an issue with either. Recently I noticed that if I shoot the exact same scene, with exact settings, and same lens the results have a very slight difference in WB. I've tested this using a WB card and one is slightly more blue than the other. It may have been like this since I've purchased them but just noticed recently. It's very very slight by I do notice. It's consistent weather I shoot with a flash, no flash, etc. The only difference between the two camera's that I can think of is the CF Card. WB is set to 5540k on both as well as all custom settings. Same shutter speed and f-stop as well. Again, it's very very slight differenct. Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions for other things to consider that may be causing this?<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>I have a Nikon 80-200 f2.8 AFD Zoom lens that I've owned for about six and a half years. I've had it serviced once under warranty with Nikon just before the five year warranty expired for a cracked manual/autofocus ring. They replaced the ring and adjusted the lens. It seems to work fine however this weekend the rubber on the zoom ring started to spin independently of the zoom ring it's self. I rolled the rubber back and underneath was a very thin black plastic band that was tapped together at the ends with with tape and a short gap between the ends were the tape was allowed to adhire to the zoom ring. It had become loose and the tape wasn't holding it still anymore. I removed it and rolled back the rubber in place and it seems fine for now. The rubber holds in place pretty well unless you force it and it then lifts up slightly but does not slip. However, there are two racetrack shaped slots on the ring opposite of each other with what looks like adjustment screws below that are not covered by the thin black plastic strip anymore. Does anyone know if this plastic strip removed poses any issues. I was also thinking of using some good quality double sided tape as well to keep the rubber from lifting but not sure it's necessary. Any suggestions for a proper repair without sending it back to Nikon. It's not a hard repair worth the time and money they'll probably want.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Has anyone else run into this issue with their D300. I was shooting an event this evening with my D300 and SB800 on a RRS flash bracket with Nikon TTL flash cord. Every once in a while after shooting a couple shots and then trying to zoom in to check them the + zoom button would not respond even after pressing several times and the image would not zoom. This only happened several times out of about a 6 hour period. When it did happen all I needed to do to get it to respond again was turn the LCD display off and then select the image view button again and then zooming in on the same image was no problem.<br>

Doesn't seem like a big issue but is just a little disconcerning since the camera is relatively new with not a lot of clicks on it. If anyone has experienced the same issue I would love to hear from you and what your solution if any.<br>

Thanks, Darrell.</p>

<p>Brad,<br>

I've backpacked many times while carrying SLR and DSLR cameras and this is what I've settled on. I use a LowePro chestpack with either a separate chest harness or attached to the backpack chest traps. Having it attached to a separate light weight chest harness makes it a little easier for me to take my backpack off or put on. I then have a safe place for my camera when moving to the ideal spot to shoot and while setting up a tripod if needed. Otherwise all my gear is attached to the backpack which I'm usally ready to set down and leave for a while. I prefer not to have a chest pack hanging on me all day but thats the price of carrying a DSLR and extra lens while backpacking in the backcountry. This also allows me to take quick shots without removing my backpack. My current setup for backpacking is my D300 with 24-85 f2.8-4.0 lens attached and sometimes and extra 18-35 f3.5-4.5 wide lens. I carry a polarizer and several ND filters, some cleaning solution and pec pads. Also carry a slik mini carbon tripod (1 pound I think and RRS BH5 ball head). Total weight around 10 pounds.<br>

I have tried to attach my chestpack to my backpack belt but I've found that it bounces around more on my hip while walking/climbing then when on my chest.<br>

Good luck.</p>

<p>Has anyone else seen this issue with the latest Nikon NX2 update. I can no longer print more than one 5x7 image on an 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper. The print layout window no longer orientates images one above the other between the long side but rather side by side between the short side. I didn't change any settings but only installed the 2.2.4 upgrade. I've tried everything I can think of but can not seem to get it changed. I called Nikon Technical help twice and they are unbelievabably useless. Seems every time Nikon fixes something they mess something else up. I'm running Windows XP Pro SP3. This should also not be a problem.</p>

<p>Kentucky Horse Park, Lexington KY (Nikon D300, 24-85 f2.8-4.0 AFD)</p>

 

<p>Thanks for the responses so far but both my D300's have the same additional picture controls (Portrait/Landscape/DX2I/DX2II) installed. Both camera's have all shooting and custom settings identical. What I did was save the settings using Save/Load function from one camera on a freshly formatted CF card. I changed some settings on both camera's. I loaded the CF card in each camera and used the load function. On both camera's when I check to see if my settings have been changed back to what I saved on the card all settings are except for one bank on each camera that I had saved the Portrait Picture Control to. The picture control is now set to Standard on the banks that had Portrait set. All other picture control settings are correct. The only thing I can figuire is that the Save/Load option will only save one of the four preloaded picture controls (Standard/Neutral/Vivid/Monocrome) and any added picture controls used are reverted back to Standard. This makes the Save/Load option less useful for me since I like to use the added Portrait picture control on my B bank.<br>

Any suggestions.</p>

<p>I just recently purchased a second Nikon D300 and started using the Save/Load function to revert my settings back on both cameras after use so they are set up the same each time I do a shoot. The issue I have is it works except for when I assign the Portrait picure control that was downloaded from the Nikon site. If I have the portrait picture control assigned to one of my banks and I do a save settings then load those settings in either the same D300 or my other D300 the portrait picture control doesn't transfer and that bank reverts back to the standard picture control. Seems like it only allows you to save or reload one of the three picture controls (Standard, Neutral, or Vivid). I formated an old 1GB card before saving a settings file on it if anyone was going to suggest that. Since I like to use the Portrait picture control I would like to be able to save a settings file with it and use it to load back on both my D300's after a day of making changes.<br>

Anyone else notice this or am I doing something wrong.</p>

<p>You might want to check the standby time out on the flash settings. I've had issues using pocket wizards and my SB800 in manual mode were if it goes into standby the first camera fire doesn't fire the flash but does take it out of standby and the rest fire fine unless left long enough for it to go into standby again. I have two SB800's and have turned the standby mode completly off.<br>

Hope this helps.</p>

<p>I've noticed lately that the rubber on the zoom ring of my Nikon 24-85 f2.8-4.0 AFD zoom lens moves around a little over the zoom ring its self. Especially if it's warm from my hand after prolong use such as during a wedding. It it was like this on one side more so than the other. I did slide the whole thing off the zoom ring and cleaned under it and it seems to stay better. Looks as if there was some adhesive in a couple areas but not everywhere.<br>

Does anyone know any tricks to softly glueing it back on with out a huge mesh. It stays in place pretty much now but does buckle or slide around slightly if I give a little extra pressure at the end of the zoom ranges. Are these rubber covers over the zoom rings supposed to just be stretch over or are they glued on with adhesive? Or should I just send it in?<br>

Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.</p>

<p>I do have both system clocks on the camera bodies set to within a second. Probably around a half second or less. Was a little tricky but did with two hands. Sounds like I'll have to poke around with View NX and Capture NX2. I would probably download each card to separate folders then rename the images different from each then move images from one to the other. Once there I'll need to sort by Date/Time and then select all and rename once again. Hope it works.<br>

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.</p>

<p>Hello everyone,<br>

I just purchased a second D300 before they were unavailable and have a question. I would like to know if it is possible to download images from each body shot during the same session and then sort by Time/Date so that everything is in one folder in cronological order. If anyone has done this I would like to know how. I use Nikon Transfer, View NX, and Capture NX2.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Zoid,<br>

My first experience with digital camera's was with a Nikon D100 also over five years ago. I struggled with exposure, color, sharpness, etc. at first as well. The one thing that I've learned is that with film you did not have the color options; it was depedent on the film used so you new what to expect. Once you get used to the camera settings (they're all different even from one model to the next) you learn how to set the camera for what you want and you'll soon get expected results. Also, keep in mind that with film some exposure and color errors were corrected at the lab and you never saw the corrections or had to deal with it. With digital you are the lab for every image printed unless you hire that out. Stick to it and you'll soon enjoy the increased capibilities of the digital camera. There is nothing wrong with the D100. I've taken and printed plenty of great images from it. I currently use a D300 and do like it better but it still comes down to how well you know your camera. Also keep in mind that you have other things to consider as well now such as a decent computer, monitor, calibrating that monitor, etc. You are now responsible for the intire workflow. Good luck.</p>

<p>I've been experimenting with saving a NEF file as a tiff file with different bit sizes and compression and noticed something that does not make sense. If I save it as an 8bit uncompressed the file size is almost double as as a compressed save image. This I expected, but if I save a 16bit uncompressed the file size is just a little less than a compressed file save; the opposite of the 8bit save. Does anyone know why this would be. I would expect both an 8bit compressed or 16 bit compressed file to be less than an uncompressed file. I tried several times just to make sure I didn't miss lable them either.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>I wanted to know that same thing so I just took an 8x10 print taped it on the wall and with my D300 on a tripod framed it to the sides and I found that same thing that Jonas suggested above. The outside curves around the focus points is approximatly an 8x10 cropping. That's what I use for portraits and never have a problem cutting of unwanted features on 8x10's. It would be nice though to have straight lines as a reference but hey it works.</p>

I've been using Nikon View NX 1.1.1 for a while and was looking forward to an update. After I updated to View NX

1.2.0 I noticed right away that the rendering of either a tiff or jpeg image in the image viewer would not complete

unless I toggled to 50% or 100%, etc then back. I tried uninstalling/installing twice and spent a half an hour on the

phone with Nikon. We couldn't figuire out why it wouldn't completly render. NEF images were fine, only tiffs and jpegs

were affected. My solution was to uninstall 1.2.0 and reinstall 1.1.1. Once I did that everything was fine and all image

formats (jpeg, tiff, NEF) would render completly. Not sure what the problem was but I'm staying with version 1.1.1

until Nikon fixes 1.2.0. or updates again. Would be curious to know if anyone else has seen this phenomium with the

latest upate.

I've been using Nikon View NX 1.1.1 for a while and was looking forward to an update. After I updated to View NX 1.2.0 I noticed right away that the rendering of either a tiff or jpeg image in the image viewer would not complete unless I toggled to 50% or 100%, etc then back. I tried uninstalling/installing twice and spent a half an hour on the phone with Nikon. We couldn't figuire out why it wouldn't completly render. NEF images were fine, only tiffs and jpegs were affected. My solution was to uninstall 1.2.0 and reinstall 1.1.1. Once I did that everything was fine and all image formats (jpeg, tiff, NEF) would render completly. Not sure what the problem was but I'm staying with version 1.1.1 until Nikon fixes 1.2.0. or updates again. Would be curious to know if anyone else has seen this phenomium with the latest upate.

I've been doing mostly portraiture work for several years but have been asked to do several Mitzvahs and a Wedding

this fall. I've done both in the past but recently I've been asked if they can purchase the digital images on CD. I've

informed my potential clients that I have not done that in the past but they are insistent. What have others done

when you've come upon this issue during your business? I've heard some do, some don't, some even are giving their

customer the CF Card after the event and they are then on their own to process and print their own images. I take

more pride in that and am concerned that the images would not be processed and optimized to they're fullest

potiential but they would be presented to friends and family as images I've taken. Basically I custom process and

print every portrait image I sell and do not want to give that up.

 

What are your thoughts? Do you offer the proofs for sale after a minimum purchase? Do you only offer finished

images on CD for sale after a minimum purchase. Do you say no and let them find another photographer? Any

thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Basically I'm trying to find out what other professional

photographers do in regards to selling their digital images vs. only selling prints.

 

Thank you,

I have three Lexar Professional 4GB 133x Wa compact flash cards that I've used with a Nikon D200 and now my

D300. I went to purchase two more and it seems that the Wa (Write Acceleration) is either no longer used or not

advertised on the label of the card. The graphics is slightly different but other wise the specs are the same except for

the Wa. Does anyone know if these are basically identical performing cards or not?

I have two SB800's and one SB80-DX that I used with my D100 that won't work with my D300 in iTT mode. I have not

tried using the CLS system yet with my D300 and SB800's since I usally use my Pocket Wizards and Light Meter in

manual mode for outdoor shoots and my Profoto Compact 600's for indoor studio shoots.

 

I'm wondering if I use either the pop-up flash as commander or one of my SB800's if my SB80-DX will work along side

of my SB800's. Otherwise, my SB80-DX is destened to be used only with my D100 or in manual mode.

 

Thanks.

I have a newly purchased Nikon 18-35mm AFD lens and notice that my view through the viewfinder slightly shifts

when changing focusing direction (ex. close-up to infinity & vis versa). It's more noticable when on a tripod. I believe

this in one of the interal lense elements moving but would like an opinion on whether I should make a deal about it.

The lenses focus great and is quite sharp but this is starting to anoy me a little. I had a 24-85 AFS G lense once that

did the same thing and I exchanged it for the 24-85mm AFD and like it much better. Both my current 24-85mm and

recently purchased 18-35 display a slight viewfinder shift if I fully extend the barrel and move it up and down (They

both have a little play) but only the 18-35 displays this when changing focusing direction.

 

Thanks.