daniel_jolicoeur
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Posts posted by daniel_jolicoeur
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"darcy... try this site:
http://www.cicada.com/pub/photo/zs/
should go a long way to geting you started!"
I'll secound that that site also!
Regards,
Dan
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You can by some small brushes and other vacumn cleaner attatchments that are for shop Vacs. They will also fit with the right adapter on a home style canister vacumn; sorry the name of them slips my mind at the moment it may not be a canister style, but not the upright ones, the kind with the hose, and attatchments. I picked mine up at Sears. The vacumn I have you can adjust the suction on the end anyhow. They also sell some very small shop vacs That would be ideal for things like bellows, camera bags, Changing tents, film holders, ect.
Regards,
Dan
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A Densitometer may be handy, and and understanding of the Zone system or some form of sensitometry. Suggest a visit to your local library to start. The Negative, by Ansel Adams; Beyound The Zone System; The Simplified Zone System, The Ansel Adams Guide to Photograhic Techniqes, by John ???. Stoufer also makes comparison strips if you don't have use of a densitometer. Here is there link http://www.stouffer.net/
Just don't get too caught up in all the testing. Excuse my spelling please.
Regards,
Dan
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Mike, Thank you so very much. Well Appreciate your hard work, I normaly do not use a pre wash either. I always had good results with Delta 100 with out it. Thanks again!
Dan
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Don't laugh! I spent the better part of a couple days plus testing
some Fuji acros 100 in a Jobo tank with 300 ml D76 1:1 68 Deg. I
Started at 8:30 min rated at 100. If i liked this film I am convinced
to spend the extra money to eliminate dust, and loading holders in my
camper. Anyhow I bought a stoufers 21 step wedge. Well 1st it took me
a while to find a holder that would accept the film and step wedge.
Then put the gaffer tape to it, because it was in rough shape, but
the only one that accepted film and wedge. I also loaded 2 more
holders, thats 4 more sheets to test by the method described in
the "NEGATIVE". So thats 6 sheets 1 for film base+fog. Well to make
this story shorter my wife had moved the center core of my 2500
series tank into the laundry room were I was storing some house paint
rollers. Well it took me two loads of acros and a load of delta 100.
to figure out that I had a light leak, and part of my tank was
missing. I have always adjusted about 15% for rotary processing, then
Fuji told me that they recommended a 1 min. pre wash and regular
times as a starting point for acros. At the same time I decided to
down rate my last test to 50 ISO instead of 100. Well it came out
that if I would have left it at 100 ISO at about 10:00 min. with a
1min pre wash I would have been right on. NOW Can some one help me
with what little film I have left to do another test if these times
and speeds sound correct for acros 100 and D-76 in a rotary
processor? Does Acros usualy come out around 100 speed? Does 10:00-
10:30 min. sound about right for D76 1:1 @ 68 deg. with a 1 min. pre
wash? Help me please! It has been a long winter and I am loosing it.
Oh ya I forgot about the one holder were I forgot to compensate for
my luna-pro f attatchment, that was 3 stops off. I guess it is worth
a good laugh now that I can look back on it.
Regards,
Dan
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This is why I like the Luna-Pro F analog meter. Yes it only goes down to 7 1/2 deg. with attachment. I like the null needle with +/-3 stops also. The only problem is the darn thing calculates in every concievable way; also alowing you to mess up in every concievable way.
Regards,
Dan
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Sprint!I switched all my products to sprint. Alot less time mixing. Mix what you want when you want. Best replacement for D-76.
Although When you find the local discount store bought out a photo shop, and D-76, HC-110, and all papers are $.50 on a dollar it is hard to beat.
Dan
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My appologies it was your article in PHOTO Techniques, sorry for the miss quote. I noticed the name looked fimialar because i wrote it down on a reciept i had in my wallet. I was going to quote what you had written.
Nice Job, sorry for the confusion,
Dan
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Stephen, I just read an article a couple of weeks ago while browsing at Borders, Perhaps you wrote it? It was very well written, I can not remember the name of the magazine; maybe it was View camera techniques, but it was saying the same thing about the zone system error and flare. From what i understood in a quick read was that the zone system was inherently developed off by 2/3 of a stop. It made sense that most people would come out with just about that or a stop lower in there personal film speed. I didn't understand why flare would have anything to do with this, but i just accepted the fact that personal film speeds where off by 2/3 of a stop, so why not take everbody's advice and half the stated ISO rating; being 1/3 of a stop conservative. Am I making sense? I am almost positive you wrote this but my memory is failing?
Regards,
Dan
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A little off topic but, Can anyone tell me if the shorter ones are better than a regular cable? Do many of you use them? I can not imagine an air release being any better than a cable if you have a solid setup? Are there any advantages? Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan
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Try United States Plastic Crop. WWW.usplastic.com
If they don't have it they can sell you what you need to make it yourself, or maybe special order them. They also have a food grade stainless steel section in thier catalog.
Good luck,
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Take Chris's advice and stick with one lense to start with. You will get many oppinions on which one is best. I started with a 162 optar, and then went to a 210. I prefer the longer lens. I recently had the money to upgrade my older lenses and found a nice 180mm Nikon I couldn't pass up on a secound chance bid offer, at the same time I also found a nice 150mm at a price I could not pass up, both are in prestine condition and I can't part with either. Anyhow I would keep your eye out for one lens to start and get use to that. I have never found myself changing lenses often, I think alot of people have their favorite and pretty much stick with that one even though they have 5 or 6 lenses.
Good luck,
Dan
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"I saw 6 mergansers. That was the first time I had ever seen any in the wild. For those who don't know, a merganser is a duck that always has a very bad hair day."
Around here there are too many, For those of you that hunt for food, and sport they are the worst tasting duck there is. Pointed bill=fish eating duck= fishey taste. Yes they do have a bad hair day. Now a wood duck with a 4x5 would be a treat.
Congratulations!!!!
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Wow! I can not believe some of you are having such a hard time with these reels. Sit down in your easychair while watching TV and practice in the light. Then close your eyes and practice. I load mine in a bedroom closet with a blanket over the door just for insurance. I still catch myself loading it in the dark with my eyes closed,,,LOL. It is realy not that hard. I will try to take some pics also. To be honest with you when I saw those black clips I was very nervous about putting them on in the dark. I now find the black clips the easiest part. They snap right in nice and easy once you get a technique down. I find holding the reel horizontaly with both hands with the index fingers in the spool and snap down each side with your thumbs. A pic. is worth a thousand words. It is not so difficult to give up if you practice 15 min in the light you will have it down.
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Have you tried Bob Wheeler's program;"VadeMecum"? It has very extensive calculations, maybe this is more than what you want?
If you haven't checked it out here is the link to his web site.
http://www.bobwheeler.com/photo/
Have Fun
Dan
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Jim, have you ever used the spotone or such on the negative,or just the print? I never had the old nose grease trick work for me.
Also have you ever used the spotpens? Just curious, I used them a few years ago in a class, and I found them much easier than the spotone and a brush. Although it seemed every time I spotted something it looked worst than before i worked on it. I use RC paper and my teacher did a pretty descent job. However I found it hard to master. We were taught to SOMETIMES take an exacto knife and carefully remove the top of the spot so the tone could penatrate. It seems like this is an art in itself but is part of the process of large format sometimes?
I know a little off the topic sorry!
Dan
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If my spelling is going to be corrected every time i write a thread i'll either have to suck it up and ignore it; or go elsewhere.
This is a Photo Forum not an English lesson on essay writing.
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Kelly Are you Blamming the lack of film processors on President Bush?
Or am i just Too wound up over this election :-(
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Your 1st change may be to get rid of the loader system. When I bought the reel and tank a couple years ago the jobo tech. didn't recomend the loader either. I think that is why you see them on ebay often. As the others have said practice in the light. I found it took no time to load them in the dark. IMOHI it's easier than 35mm reels.
Dan
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I have a few extra peices of 50/50 mirror left from fixing mine. I can't remember but it was expensive for a small peice. I will send you a peice if i can still find it if you pay the shipping.
email me and let me know
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Dean, I had to read that one several times. Was getting a little worried thinking they wanted to pass the baby tru, not the bib!,,,what a laugh!
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Check out this inexpensive bag. It can be carried as a duffle bag or on the shoulders like a back pack. Here is the description and a picture. You can also buy a used military surplus one in green. Both are $25. inside pocket is 30"x11"x14"
Israeli Defense Force Assault Bag in BLACK, Military style IDF bag constructed of heavy black cotton canvas, three zippered outside pockets, side-end pockets, inside patch pocket, waterproof bottom, reinforced carry handle, and ID holder. Military design with cleaver dual adjustable shoulder straps and padded top so you can carry this bag on your back like a pack. Great situation bag when your actions require a hands free assault. Brand new condition about 30x11x14", end pocket 14x11x1.5", and 11x6x2" and 11x4x1" with vinyl bottom, ID holder and shoulder strap.<div></div>
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http://www.bobwheeler.com/photo/
Includes VadeMecum software and in depth Technical notes. Downloadable for windows or palm pilot.
Comparison of Ebony 45SU and RW45E
in Large Format
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