nick_w.

Check out Keeble & Shuchat in Palo Alto. They have new and used Leica gear. I don't know

where you'll find CV stuff.

Jen,

I have to agree with Steve Levine; lose the diffuser. The only time those pocket diffusers

work is indoors with a low, preferably white ceiling since they are designed to bounce light

around a room to soften shadows. If the light has nothing to bounce off - i.e. a high

ceiling or dark-colored walls - it won't be helping.

Here's a possible solution to that photo of yours:

1) Meter for background (let's say the meter reads 1/8 f/4 @ ISO 400)

2) In manual mode set camera to those settings

3) Increase shutter speed one or two stops depending on desired look (shutter speed

affects background, aperture affects foreground/subject). This way your subject will pop a

little bit from the background. The more stops you increase your shutter the more

distinction between subject and background (more cave-like).

4) So now your camera is set to 1/15 f/4 @ ISO 400

5) Set your flash to manual mode

6) Estimate the distance from the flash to your subject

7) Dial in the proper flash exposure according to the distance (modern flashes usually

have a scale in feet and meters that appears on the flashes display as you dial in exposure

compensation.)

8) Fire away.

9) If you're using film, it would be wise to bracket your shots. If digital, preview your shot

and work from there.

This is just how I typically light a portrait with one strobe. There are plenty of other ways

to do it. I find using the TTL modes on strobes to jump all over the place. It's better to

learn the old fashioned way. The more you understand lighting technique, the better your

portraits will become.

Also check out Dave Black's and Robert Seale's websites. They do sports portraits and use

portable lights VERY well.

Kathy,

Check out www.kinesisgear.com <p>

Their modular belt system will allow you to select a variety of pouches and packs to suit

your needs. I use the regular belt, a pouch to hold my 80-200 f/2.8 or 300 f/4, and the

"doctor's bag" to hold spare lenses, batteries, 2 Nikon strobes, and misc. items. Although

I'm a newspaper photog, I think this system would work well for weddings too. <p>

It also seems like sound advice to bring a large bag full of all of your gear and use the belt

system to carry just what you need at the time.

I'm interested in finding the cheapest fisheye lens for Nikon mount. I don't care about the

quality of the lens. I just want the fisheye look and I want to pay very little for it. Are there

some Russian lenses out there? Has anybody had any success with those fisheye adapters

that you screw onto the end of your regular lens? I would prefer lenses that approximate

the look of about 8-12mm. I really want to pay less than $100. Thanks.

Possible solutions:<p>

Reduce the contrast level in your camera.<p>Set your camera to underexpose about -0.7

or -1 stops.<p>On a bright sunny day you won't be able to use f/2.8 or faster unless your

subject is in the shade because the D70 shutter isn't fast enough.<p>Preset your

exposure in the auto modes and then switch to manual. Unless the clouds are continually

changing the light or you're shooting in and out of the sun rapidly, manual mode is the

way to go.<p>Learn to use your flash better. You can also set your flash to manual mode

and make quick adjustments. Since you have the benefit of reviewing your shots

immediately, flash photography is incredibly easier.<p>Use the blown highlights to your

advantage. How? Be creative:)

One way to slow dust build-up on your sensor is to turn the camera off before switching

lenses. When the camera is on the sensor is charged, creating static-electricity, which

attracts dust. Although I still get dust on my camera sensors, it doesn't happen as quickly

as it used to.

John,

I have a D100. If you want to preserve highlight detail, consider reducing the

camera's contrast setting to its lowest point. Also, try underexposing your shots .3, .7

or 1 stops. These cameras retain a good amount of shadow detail, which can be

recovered in PhotoShop, whereas the blown-out highlights are lost forever. These are

the settings I use for the newspapers. Good luck.

They're all fine lenses. Do you already have other lenses for the D100? If so, buy one

of the three that complements the others you own. It also depends on how wide you

want to go. A 35mm lens is cropped into a 52mm lens on the D100. Many people will

argue that the 50mm "standard" field of view is the best to start off with. The 35mm

lens is also the best compromise between the three that you're considering. Or, just

pick the cheapest of the three and go out shooting. It's more fun doing that than

worrying about gear anyways.

I don't understand why people believe the Leica M is better for documentary work.

The documentary work I most admire is when the photographer has become intimate

with his/her subjects. When your subjects already know they're being photographed it

doesn't matter if you have a stealthy Leica M or a hefty Nikon F5.

What kind of photography will you be doing with this "pro"? If it's primarily sports,

then the D2H or the 1D is your best bet. If not, the D100 is an excellent choice. I

freelance for a newspaper and use a D100 for everything, including sports. It's not

the best camera out there but I'm happy with its performance. Also, it doesn't seem

logical that this pro would be using Nikon and Canon digital cameras simultaneously.

Find out what he shoots with most of the time and stick to that brand. If he shoots

Nikon, get the D100, if Canon, get the 10D. Or just borrow some of his gear!

I just received an SB-80dx without the instruction manual in the mail from an

ebay transaction. What combination of buttons should I press to use the flash

off camera (d100)? Are there any websites you can refer me to with helpful

tips on using the flash's features? Thanks.

I will second Josh's nomination and add my own from the Magnum line-up:

Trent Parke. He makes street photography interesting again. Also, Lauren

Greenfield of the VII photo agency did a great job with Girl Culture. She has

other intriguing essays on the VII website.

The instruction manual included with the lens states that regular filters can be

used with no vignetting problems. I personally use a slim filter because it was

a gift. Just know that slim filters will not hold the standard lens cap. Of course,

with a hood and filter, you don't need the lens cap anyway.

Mike,

I don't think the 12-24 DX will be out until spring 2004. If you can wait that long

and need an ultra wide zoom, then there's no problem. However, if you're

looking to take photos sooner, the 18-35 is supposed to be good, as long as

lens speed isn't a big issue for you. Or there's also the 17-35 f2.8, which is

what I use with the D100. It would be nice to go a little wider sometimes, but

this focal length range is fine for most subject matter. Are you concerned with

price at all? The 12-24 or 17-35 fixed aperture lenses cost a lot more than the

18-35 vario aperture lens. I don't know enough about the longer lenses you

mentioned.

Justin,

You'll be able to fit your camera gear in the F3x just fine. If you don't use

8.5x11 notebooks, then I don't see why the F3x couldn't double as a school

bag too. When on assignment, I stick a 6x9 notebook in the rear pocket of the

bag against my body. Inside the bag the two canvas silos can fold back

against the sides leaving ample room for some books and school supplies. I

think your idea is great. If it turns out, however, that your books and things

don't fit too well, at least you have a nice camera bag!

Chris,

Yes, I even tried to download the photos from my CF card before I had the

Nikon View 6 software installed. I've tried using the Nikon View software,

iPhoto and just double-clicking the disk icon from the desktop. Every method

produces the same results: the stupid rainbow pinwheel appears and stays

until I manually turn off the computer. Has anyone else had difficulty

downloading photos from their D100 to their Mac using OS 10.2.8?

I just bought a D100 along with a Sandisk Ultra II CF card and a Sandisk

ImageMate USB 2 CF card reader. I use an Emac with OS 10.2.8. The

problem is when I insert the CF card into the reader the desktop icon appears

but if I double-click on it the rainbow pinwheel starts going and doesn't stop.

I've also tried directly connecting the camera to the computer through Nikon

View 6 but I can't transfer the files. Maybe some of you out there know what

I'm doing wrong...Thanks.

Is it a photo or an illustration? It looks as if it's been worked to death in

Photoshop. I prefer photos.

My brother is currently an assistant for Avedon. For all of his portraiture he

uses a large format (8x10) camera, tri-x ASA 320 film, developed in D76 and

then developed again in some other Kodak developer that gives the pictures

that punchy contrast.

It's really true that all he does is press the button. The assistants set up the

lighting in his studio or on location and load the film plates as he talks with his

subject and snaps away.

I haven't asked my brother how they deliver his work to the New Yorker, ie

prints or a CD. I know the studio has a good film scanner, though.

Dennis,

I think your photo could have been better if you stopped down to f/2 or f/2.8 to

blur the distracting background. The real interest in the photo lies entirely in

the foreground. Also, the shinee's head would have been better off placed in

between the doorways. That might lock the viewer's eye to the man's jovial

expression. A photo essay/story on shoeshiners or even that particular

shoeshiner has good potential.

So let's say you're prowling the streets snapping away when you get to the

end of a roll. Without a neck strap, how do you quickly change film? Now you

have to prowl the streets for a bench or a table. Or do you just squat down

right there in the street, rest the Leica on the ground and proceed changing

film without anyone noticing? :>)

I bought a bargain condition FE2 from them for a great price. It performs as it

should and doesn't have any dings or dents. I'm impressed. I also bought

some prime lenses in EX condition that were nearly flawless to my eye. I think

you can trust them. They also have a return policy if the lens doesn't meet

your standards.

Matt,

I also agree that Brooks might not be the best place to go. My brother went

there and learned the craft and business of photography very well. But Brooks

mainly focuses on commercial photography. Although they do have a

"documentary" path to take, you'd probably get more for your money at UW or

another CHEAPER state school. Plus, as you'll find out when applying for

internships, newspaper editors love the youngsters with experience shooting

at their school papers. You get practical experience in the newsroom, which

might even be more important than receiving interesting assignments. Good

luck.

Doug,

If you're concerned with definition, I'd take a look at the file sizes and format

Walmart uses to make your CDs. Maybe it would be better to invest in a good

film scanner? That way if you want to make a large print of a photo, you can

scan it in at a high resolution as a TIFF file. And if you just want some 4x6s,

you can scan the photos as jpegs with lower resolution. A good film scanner

should cost much less than a new D100 in the short term. Of course if you're

willing to shell out $2000 for the D100 + accesories, I'm sure you won't be

disappointed. It's a tough decision.