klfi

I am after a wide prime lens for my 10D to use for street/people

photgraphy. I have the wonderful Tamron 17-35Di which I use most

often at 17mm 24mm and 35mm.

 

I find it a bit slow at the longer lengths, especially indoors.

 

Thus I am looking at getting 24 and 35mm primes. Most of my people

shots end up as 6x4 prints or on the web so with the 10D and I have

pixels to spare.

 

My thought was to get just a 24mm prime and crop to 35mm FOV when

needed(a digital zoom I suppose). This would save having to buy and

change lens. The image should be the same as shot with a 35mm lens -

but only about 4megapixels. This method would be better with a 8-

10MP camera of course.

 

Anyone doing this currently... any thoughts?

 

Thanks, Kev

Just wondering how the field of view of a defished 15mm fisheye

compares with that of a wide rectiliner lens, in particular, the new

10-22EF-S or sigma 12-24mm.

 

What is the effective FOV of the defished 15mm fisheye on a 1.6x

DSLR?

 

 

Thanks

Kev

I hear the Tokina prime is great. I went with the Tamron 17-35/2.8-4. It has great reviews and I am more than pleased with its performace.

I think the high iso performance may bring about the development of some slower midrange zooms. Maybe a relatively small, quality 24-100/4 or 20-80/4. These would make a great walkabout lenses. They are fast enough with good high iso performance DSLRSs.. just lack the ability to narrow the DOF. I would love such a lens to complement my fast primes.

Thanks Yakim,

 

I remember you heard a rumour about this lens from an asian site a while ago. Your previous post made me hesitate about getting the sigma 12-24 and now i have 3 choices (4 if you include upgrading to 20D and getting the EF-S lens)thanks to you. Just have to wait for some reviews about the new lenses.

 

Cheers,

Kev

I have just picked up a roll of film taken with my EOS 50 film camera and 50/1.4

 

I am now quite convinced that my lens is causing the problem. The focus error was almost identical to that shown on the 10D. All shots with appeture wider than f/4 were obviously out of focus. This included tripod mounted shots and manually focused shots.

 

I just can't figure out what the lens is actually doing wrong. Oh well, I guess I will leave that to the techies at Canon.

 

Thanks again for your replies.

Scott, I'm glad to hear I am not the only one with this problem.

 

I have suspected the same thing with my 10D. When using the 50/1.4 there is a definite discrepancy between what is focused at the viewfinder and what is focused at the sensor plane. This suggests that the paths travelled by light to the viewfinder and sensor must be different distances and thus a problem with the calibration or mirror/prism setup.

 

However, if there is a calibration problem, then i would expect to see the focus error with all my lenses. For example, when I use my 105mm macro at 1:1 the DOF is much shallower than the 50/1.4, yet I can get the focus spot on if i manually focus carefully. Thus we go back to blaming the lens!

 

If the problem is in the lens as others have suggested, then something is happening within the lens to change the optical path during the shutter actuation. The fault in the lens somehow produces an out of focus image at the sensor, even though there is no focus error evident at the viewfinder during focusing.

 

I will drop in my film today with shots from my 50/1.4 and be able to post my results shortly.

 

Then I suppose I will have to travel the 5 hours to my nearest canon service department where I don't even get to speak to the technical staff about the problem. I would really love to be able to test another 50/1.4 that is not possible in the small town where I have just moved to. Thanks for all the replies... I hope I get to the bottom of this.

Hi everyone,

 

Canon's 50/1.4 is widely regarded as an excellent sharp lens. After

using this lens for a few months I was disappointed with it's

performance. My images were not sharp when compared with my other

lenses (Tamron 17-35, 85/1.8, 200/2.8L, Sigma 105).

 

A friend borrowed the lens and found similar problems with the lens

on his 10D.

 

On closer inspection, it seemed that the softness i was seeing was

due to a focus error with the 50mm on my 10D.

 

I did some tests with the camera on tripod in good light. (ISO 100

with shutter approx 1/500). I drew on cardboard and placed the card

on a 45 degree angle. I used the centre focus point to focus on the

black dot which is about 1cm in size.

 

The 50mm consistently FRONT FOCUSED at f1.4 through to f4.0.(only

about 10% of many shots were correctly focussed). Even with manual

focus on tripod,the results were the same.

 

The problem does not occur with my other lenses. In particular, if

you look at the image from my 85/1.8 you can see the focus if spot

on. (see link below). I moved the tripod back for this shot so that

test image was about the same size as with the 50mm.

 

Can someone explain how the image recorded can be so different to

what i am seeing in the viewfinder. The image in my viewfinder looks

in perfect focus for both the 50 and 85mm lenses, yet the 50mm is

badly out of focus... what is going on? Lens or camera problem?

 

I am reluctant to send the camera for adjusting because i don't want

all of my other lenses to stop focusing properly. I have also tested

the 50mm on my film camera - the film has not been processed yet. I

figure that if the lens is sharp on my film camera then it may be

time to upgrade my 10D.....

 

Any thoughts...please!?<div></div>

Steve,

 

You may not blind your child with the flash... but I really prefer available light photos for babies.

 

The focal length you choose will depend on if you are using full frame or digital with crop. Your zoom covers both the focal lengths you are interested in so you could set the zoom at 50mm for a day, then 85mm and see which is a more useful length...shouldn't take long to figure out which you prefer. Keep in mind that this will change as your baby gets older and starts moving around quickly.

 

I have both lenses and shoot with a 10D. They are both very useful lengths for me and great for portraits.

 

I find the 85mm significantly sharper at f/1.8 and it also isolates the subject better. It is often too long, but the best focal length is different for each photographer and depends on how close you like to be to your subject.

 

Both are great..

Congrats on the baby!

Hi Dan,

 

Do you have lenses to cover the 50-100mm range if you go with the prime?

 

I had a similar dilemma when i wanted to replace my 70-300USM lens for 10D. It took me 6 months to decide between the 70-200/4L and the 200/2.8L. I also considered the Sigma 70-200/2.8.

 

I ended up with a used 200/2.8L mkI and 85/1.8 and am extremely pleased with my choice. The deciding factors were

1. Black and less conspicuous.

2. f/2.8, which allows easier focusing, more DOF control and use with 1.4x and 2.0x converters. Adding a tc to the 70-200/4 is too slow.

3. I tend to use either 70mm or 300mm on my zoom and I enjoy using primes.

 

Slightly better image quality with the 200 prime is a bonus. I think I would have been happy with the excellent quality of the 70-200/4L and this wasn't really a consideration with my purchase.

 

In response to your first question. The zoom for me is a luxury and the sacrifices were not worth it for me. I have nothing against zooms. In fact I would be willing to pay a very high price for a small, black 70-200/2.8L with equal image quality of the 70-200/4L.

 

Get the 200mm prime and enjoy!

Hi Denny,

 

Try this link to an article which was posted a few months ago. I found it quite useful. I think most of the ideas have already been mentioned but it's good to have summarised in one article.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007iOR

 

Kev

From what I've read, both are great lenses. The 28mm has a 52mm filter thread while the 24mm has a 58mm.

 

I have the 50/1.4 and hope to get the 85/1.8 so I'd prefer the lens to share my 58mm filters.

 

The 24mm is about $120 more, but if you get the 28mm with a good polarizer, then the difference is only about $30-50.

 

As others have said, it really comes down to what focal length you prefer.

 

Something to think about anyway...

 

KEv

Hi,

 

Just wondering if the novoflex reverse adapter has a front filter

thread so that it can be used with screw in filters or a ring-flash.

 

Thanks

Kev

Hi,

 

Quick question for those using the sigma 100-300/4 with 10D. Does

the camera have the same problem recognising the focal length as

with the sigma 70-200/2.8? What about with a 1.4xTC?

 

Thanks

Kev

Thanks Mike. How do i get to use those large jpegs embedded with the RAW without actually RAW processing?

 

Kev

Hi,

When I tried a sigma 70-200/2.8 with the sigma 1.4TC on my 10D, the

camera would not record the correct focal length used. I have read

that other people have also had this problem.

 

Has anyone used the lens with other 3rd party TCs, particularly the

Tamron/kenko 1.4 and 2.0xTCs. I wonder if they have the same

problem with recording focal length. Please share any experiences

you have had.

 

Thanks

Kevin

Hi just a couple of quick questions about some of the funtions on my

10D which I don't quite understand.

 

1. CF-8. Choosing jpeg size to be embedded with RAW file. I embed

small jpgegs when i shoot and convert RAW files with capture 1.

What benefit would i get from shooting with large embedded jpegs? I

can't see where they would be useful in a digital workflow. Anyone

using large jpegs with their RAW files out there who can let me know

thier reasons?

 

2. CF-14. Auto reduction of fill flash. What is the camera

actually doing to my flash exposure? I use 420EX. The manual say

enable this function to "obtain natural-looking, daylight flash

shots automatically". How many stops is the flash being reduced?

Has the algorithm been released by Canon?

 

3. ISO expansion on/off. I was wondering why there is the option

to turn ISO 3200 off. Is there an advantage to having this option

off? I use ISO 3200 occasionally and find it handy to have ready to

use when I press the ISO set button.

 

Thanks

Kev

Hi,

 

This question is quite specific, but i hope someone will be able to

help out.

 

Has anyone used 10D + Sigma 100-300/4 + 77mm circular polariser?

The lens has an 82mm filter thread but I'm hoping i can get a 77mm

filter for it to use with other lenses.

 

Thanks

Kev

I use a sigma 105 macro on my 10D. Most of my shots are handheld but I need to use a flash at about 1/200s and stop down for DOF. I think 1/100s is too slow at 1:1 magnification for sharp pics.

 

Sometimes it is hard to get a natural look with a flash. Natural light is better but trying to use a tripod and slower shutter for butterflies etc requires a lot of patience - I have tried it myself but miss a lot of shots. It is also hard to focus without a macro rail. If you use a flash bracket and can balance ambient light with the flash, then more natural look can be achieved. Chasing butterflies in full sun is your other option.

 

HAve fun,

Kev

Thanks Winfried,

I understand the concepts you explained. I was after more specific information about this particular lens.

 

I am considering buying the EF 24/2.8 lens because I feel the relatively large f2.8 appeture will be useful. If the 17-35 can open up to f2.8 when zoomed at 24mm then I can avoid getting the prime lens unless the zoom turns out to be too soft.

 

Is anyone who has this lens able to tell me what the maximum appeture is whem zoomed to 24mm

 

Thanks again

Kevin

Can anyone using the Tamron 17-35 let me know at which focal length

the max appeture starts to move from f2.8 towards f4.0.

 

Will I be able to zoom to 24mm and still maintain f2.8?

 

Also, what do you think of the lens? Recommend it?

 

Thanks

Kevin

I am thinking about upgrading my 28-105/3.5-4.5. It is very sharp

stopped down but very soft wide open.

 

I already have a 10D with 50/1.4 and sigma 105/2.8 macro in that

range. Considering adding the EF24/2.8.

 

I use the 28-105 when I go on outings where it is inconvenient to

keep changing lenses. I was thinking of upgrading to a 3rd party

fixed appeture (f2.8) zoom.

 

How does the 28-105 compare with some of the 3rd party zooms such as

tamron 28-75/2.8? The extra speed is attractive, especially if the

good things I have read about the 3rd party zooms are true. Would

it really be an "upgrade" for me.

 

Thanks

Kev

Does anyone know if it is possible to use the sigma 105mm macro lens

with teleconverters for telephoto work?

 

Thanks,

Kevin

Thanks everyone for your answers,

 

I think I was a being a bit ambitious trying to cover the 200-400mm range with just one lens + TCs, and maintain quality at the same time. I was trying to cut down on cost and weight by just getting one lens.

 

Well back to the old drawing board i suppose. I fear I am bound to get one of the big white lenses. Decision now is between 200 +400 primes or 100-400IS zoom.

 

thanks again,

Kev

I agree Andrew. A small, prime WA lens with front filter thread would be fantastic for 10d/DRebel. A fast lens is not necessary in this focal range. 15/4 would be great for me and I would complement it with a EF24/2.8.

 

The Tokina 17/3.5 and EF 17-40L both accept filters, but I feel are not quite wide enough. Then there are the Sigma wide zooms 12-24 and 15-30 which I was seriously considering - as you mentioned, no filter thread, and a bit bulky.

 

Yakim, what have you heard about the new tokina lens?

 

Kev