Jump to content

dennis_george_miller

Members
  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by dennis_george_miller

  1. <p>I have been trying to develope Tech Pan (35mm in small plastic tank) with TD-3, and so far my four attempts have left me with no images on the film. The film (after fixing) comes out completely clear, as it seems the TD-3 developer is not mixed right. (the diluted TD-3 pours out dark) I tried it first with the double dilution (125 + 875distilledwater, then 50cc of this working stock into 500cc for developement, a+b) and then single dilution 50cc of a and b to make 500, no image with this either. Called Photographer Formulary twice, and I am still confused....any ideas? Thanks lots. (the tech pan is ok in rodinal) dennis </p>
  2. <p>Ilkka, what do you look for to tell what kind of lens took the photo? I am new to this, so any info will help. What are the telltale signs? Do you consider these differences to be significant, like does a landscape improve in accuracy of detail and contrast. I use film, mostly b&w. Thanks!</p>
  3. <p>I was looking for my FE2 last night, kinda miss it. I usually use the F, but thinking of the nice feel the FE2 has, and I agree that it is better than most cameras. When I travel I take it with the 28-45 and 50-135, both these zooms can beat many primes I have on tripod. And although I can see in the microscope (at 40x) that expensive lenses are better, I can't see it in the print unless I go to 16x20, then it is mostly my technique that gets in the way. For me the workmanship and variety of the old nikors are unbeatable. The 35mm 2.0 is fine. Think very few lenses can out resolve that 55 you have! But I have no experience with zeiss 35mm.</p>
  4. <p>I got a d40 several years ago because the camera would work with the older lenses. It is then manual focus and manual setting can be adjusted using the histograms. This turns out to be very easy to do, and I really enjoy using this camera with the older 300 ed if, and 400 ed if with 2x. Amazing results for bird photograph. You may try a search to help you with this, d40 and histograms, as several good easy articles are out there. good luck ! </p>
  5. <p>I also had this problem with a used (but very clean) sample. I decided to put a very small dent (think I used a sharp chisel) at the innermost sliding area, so that it would rub more and not slide so easily. It worked for me, but I can not suggest you try it as it could injure your lens badly.</p>
  6. <p>Earlier this year I did my own experiment with these lenses and tech pan. (I had a photo taken with a rollie 35s (40mm sonnar lens) that turned out really nice, and I was curious how this would compare with the nikkors.) At a distance of about 30 feet the little rollei could not compare with the 35mm K 2.8 when examined at 40x with microscope. I also used a 35mm 2.0 which was better yet, (all tripod at f8) but surprised that the 28-45 (at 35mm) zoom even did better! (the 28mm 2.0 was best, and I do not have the 35mm 1.4) Then I enlarged several to 11x14 (about 10x) and found out that I could not see a notable difference between any of them ! (I like to carry the 2.8, or the zoom the best.)</p>
  7. <p>Having come back to film photography, mostly for B&W enlargements at 11x14, I have aquired some very nice older nikon lenses. Really liking your 'Favorite' opinions uses for these, I have learned that many lenses were created with sweet spots, where the effects really shined. Just wondering what lenses you enjoy the most and how you used it for that impressive effect you like, perhaps even mention the film/filters you used. Thanks, really enjoy this site! Dennis </p>
  8. <p>think I am seeing best nowdays with the waist level finder and the wide angles. the sky has been amazing toward evening, & I like the little flip up lens to see even better. small tripod and a little hike helps, with old tech pan film. </p>
  9. <p>I am puzzled too, after testing primes (and zooms) with differnet fine films. (with tripod f/8) In an 11x14 print I can not see any difference between cheaper and high end nikon primes! Under the microscope at 40x I can see the differnce, and it is very apparent, but it is not apparent in prints at 11x14, about 10x. Also I was surprised to see some zooms (28-45, 50-135, AI) out perform (in the microscope) cheaper primes. Best is the 55 micro. Planning to go to 16x20 now, but dust is creating another obsticle. I used to shoot 4x5, landscapes, but lately while hiking I have used a small rollie 35s, (not as sharp as 35mm non ai nikon primes or zooms on film at 40x) but just as sharp on 11x14 on paper, if done right. Amazing. My conclusion is that I am not able to resolve fully the 35mm negative on paper at 11x14.</p>
  10. <p>Abdul, I just went through a series of tests on an old well worn 400mm f3.5, done with a digital d40. I used a big old tripod, and at a distance of only 20 feet. I was surprised how much the image improved by removing the filters, in the limited testing I did. I tested different f stops and shutter speeds and found that I preferred the lens stopped down, and that slower shutter speeds (even to 1/30) were still sharp, if I did not touch it. More than anything I learned not to be afraid of thing, experiment. I like to carry the thing in a backpack, set up and wait. These faster larger lenses are really nice in dim light when the animals start coming out, with the tripod. I am still having difficulty getting sharp pics with hand holding. Have fun.</p>
×
×
  • Create New...