terry_carraway

Of the two, the speed finder is much nicer overall. But it tends to

be much more expensive.

David is right with his advice. It is not perfect, but it will work.

<p>

If you want to do lots of multiple exposures, get an A-1 or T90. The

A-1 has a multiple exposure lever under the film wind lever. Push

that and the film wind only cocks the shutter. The T90 allows you

tell it how many exposures you want to make, then it cocks the

shutter, but does not advance the film for that many shots.

<p>

I am not sure how the F-1 models handle multi exposure.

I would put a piece of tape over either the contacts or the hot show

where the contacts touch. Other than that, it should work similar to a

Vivitar 283/285.

<p>

BTW putting a 199A on a Canonet is going to look VERY strange.

Strange, since there are three threads that had new answers posted on

March 29.

Just for some info, the motor drive for the A-1 doesn't rewind, only

advances. You have to rewind manually.

Just looked at this thread again.

<p>

The Waist Level Finder was made for both the older F-1 and the New

F-1. They are different models, but both are out there.

<p>

We have an F-1n (second model) and the proper Waist Level Finder for

it. I had mistakenly picked up a Waist Level Finder for a New F-1,

and while it fits, it doesn't work real well. The built in magnifier

is out of focus.

<p>

And that is one big difference between the two. The WLF for the New

F-1 has a flip up magnifier like many TLRs.

Canon didn't make one.

<p>

There is also the Duo Sync cord that is made for A series cameras to

remote the with all functions operating.

<p>

You can find them occasionally on eBay or sometimes at camera stores

in some dusty corner.

DO NOT EVER PUT FILM IN CHECKED BAGGAGE. Many airports are using CTX

5xxx series xray machines for checked baggage. These machines DO

increase power until they can ID everything in the bag. Since they

run totally unattended, they use MUCH higher xray levels than any

carry on scanner. They can fog slow film in a single pass through the

machine.

<p>

The scanners used for carry on baggage are fairly low power and do not

offer increasing the power until they see what is in there. If they

can't see it with xray, they look in your bag with their eyes. Also

since people work close to the units, with the open ends, there is a

limit to the xray levels that can be used. They CAN stop the item in

the xray field to take more time to look at something, but this is

still not damaging to film.

<p>

I have not heard of anyone having film fogged by even multiple passes

through a carry on baggage scanner except one case in a third world

country.

I had the same problem with a 135 f2 I picked up in Canada. It would

not focus to infinity. I did not try it with any other body, but the

dealer had it repaired. The technician said there was no evidence of

damage or previsou adjustment, so it was like that from the beginning.

<p>

May be something that is right on the edge that has a problem with

T90s.

<p>

Have it adjusted and enjoy it.

For reference, the shops in my area charge about $80 (2 hours labor)

for most lens repairs/CLAs.

<p>

The advantage of having your lens fixed, is you know it is right, and

it is also clean.

One disadvantage of using the teleconvertor versus a longer lens is

that you can't go as wide open for depth of field control. Many

portraits use a wide aperture for very shallow depth of field to blur

the background.

<p>

With a convertor on a 50mm f1.8, you end up with a 100mm f4

(approximately), versus buying a 85mm f1.8 or 100mm f2.0 or even

f2.8.

Ask if you can shoot both lenses. Shoot the same shot with each lens

from wide open to moderately stopped down. Then compare the results,

pick the lens that does the best job.

<p>

I suggest slide film for the test, and a tripod.

<p>

There could be more differences than just the overall design. The

"better" lens, could be a lemon of that model.

6 volts is the normal advice for maximum voltage. I would not use a

flash that puts 12 volts across the contacts on any A or T series

camera without some protection.

Search the forum for answers about using FD lenses on any EOS camera.

<p>

The short answer, not really.

I use stop bath diluted about double what is normal.

<p>

Xtol is still alkaline, it does use ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) as a

development agent. But ascorbic acid is a very weak organic acid.

There are the same mechanically.

<p>

But I think the CPP uses a digital thermostat, not just a digital

thermometer. This will allow you set different temps easier, just set

and wait to stabilize. The CPA and CPE use an analog setup that does

require tweaking to get the temp right.

Actually the supplier also has to supply an MSDS sheet upon demand.

And it won't have information on staining.

<p>

In general, do not get any developer on your hands. Do not drink any

developer. And do not work with any developer in a closed room

without ventilation. Virtually all developers use one of about 5

actual chemicals that will do development. Some are worse than

others, but none of them are good for you.

<p>

Xtol uses a Phenidone dericative which is much less likely to cause

sesnitivity than Metol that is the more classic development agent.

But it is still skin absorbable, and somewhat toxic.

I basically agree with the other posters. We have an F-1 with both

Waist Level and Sports Finders. And an Angle Finder for both F and A

series. A TLR blows them all away.

<p>

BUT, it might work for what you want. If you can find an F-1 to play

with, you can try it out. You just push the two buttons on the prism

an slide it off.

<p>

And you do need the Waist Level Finder because without some form of

finder/prism, there is nothing to hold the focusing screen in place.

I would also think that the metering would be effected somewhat.

The old Vivitar 70-210 Series 1 had a very good reputation. Later

versions of this lens, not as great.

<p>

I would stay away from any of the odder named ones (Phoenix, Albinar,

etc.) Most that I have seen have very big problems with flare. Not

dots of light, but a VERY serious loss of contrast.

They did change the optics from the 24 f2.8 S.S.C. and the New FD

version. They went from 9 elements in 8 groups to 10 elements in 9

groups.

<p>

Most times (as has been said) any change in the optical formula is

done to make the lens better.

<p>

But either one will be fine, they are both very nice lenses.

<p>

The 24 f2.0 is only in the New FD version. The f1.4 version is

available in both old and New mounts, with the same number of elements

and groups. But that doesn't mean that the design didn't change. Bit

looking at the sizes, wieghts and that both have a minimum aperture of

f16, it looks like they didn't change much.

If you want a hard copy manual either check eBay or contact John Craig

at www.craigcamera.com

<p>

His manuals are about $15 each.

Just to expand, the viewfinders and screens ARE interchangeable

between the first and second versions (F-1 and F-1n).

<p>

The earlier versions use mercury cells or substitutes for the meter

(see other posts on this board about batteries and mercury cells).

But, if you use a handheld meter, the battery is not needed. It only

runs the meter.

<p>

If you do use the meter, the F-1n does also ASA (ISO) settings up to

3200 versus 1600 for the F-1. The two earlier versions do have mirror

lockup. With various viewfinders you can do shutter speed priority,

waist leve viewing, or extremely low light metering. The New F-1

(also known as the F-1N) does offer the ability to do Aperture

Priority automation.

<p>

My personal favorite of the F-1 series is the F-1n.

The other designation for the battery for the A series is PX28.

<p>

There are three version available nowdays. Alkaline, Silver Oxide and

Lithium. I use the Silver Oxide or Lithium in my A-1. The nice

thing about the lithium is long shelf life. For a spare in your

bag,the PX28L makes a lot of sense.

The problem with the Wein cells is the fairly short life (normally 6

months or so) and that once put into use, the life span is calendar

time, not based on usage.

<p>

You can increase the life by taking them out of the camera when not in

use, and putting a piece of tape over the holes.

You are going to have to test it. Shoot some test rolls and mix some

up with 5 grams, and see what happens. If the negs are thin, try

more. If that does help, toss it.