pixseal

The 380EX is still listed as current on Canon's web site: <A

HREF="http://www.usa.canon.com/camcambin/cameras/speedlite/index.html"

>http://www.usa.canon.com/camcambin/cameras/speedlite/index.html</A>

There's <A HREF="http://www.wildlifesafari.org">Wildlife Safari</A> in Winston, Oregon (south of Roseburg). It's been quite a few years since visited, and I wasn't interested in wildlife photography at that time. If I recall, with the abundance of foliage as a backdrop, you should be able to get some good shots.

Its a "TS-E" lens and fits on "EOS" camera bodies (which have "EF"

mounts). How did you come to own such a lens?

Try asking on the Canon EOS board: <A

HREF="http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a.tcl?topic=Camera%20Equip

ment">http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a.tcl?topic=Camera%20Equip

ment</A>.

Jeff, a 1.5X extender on a 2.8 lens would give you a maximum aperture

of 4.2

<UL>

<LI>200mm/f2.8 = 71.43mm aperture</LI>

<LI>300mm/71.43 = f4.2</LI>

</UL>

Ideally, a 1.4x extender would actually be a 1.4142135623731x

Canon never made a vertical grip for the EOS 6xx bodies. The GR-10L is

a "taller" grip, made for larger hands or a larger gripping surface,

however it's not what I'd consider a vertical grip (no shutter release

button in vertical position).<P>

Canon did make (primarily for CPS members) a "<B>Vertical Release

Button T3</B>" which screws into the GR-20 T3 socket. The VRB is a

rare find and often fetches high prices at auction ($100+).

I favor the second-hand option (I buy most of my EOS gear

second-hand). However, a used 1N and the mentioned "L" lenses will

cost <I>much more</I> than a new IV and 28-105 USM lens.

You might have more luck asking this question on the Canon <B>EOS</B>

list: <A

HREF="http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a.tcl?topic=Canon%20EOS%20

FAQ%20forum">http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a.tcl?topic=Canon%2

0EOS%20FAQ%20forum</A>

If you use a <B>Canon Off Camera Shoe Cord 2</B>, then E-TTL is

preserved. However, if you use any other cord, all bets are off!

<I>what are the other features that I miss out if I use 420EX in EOS3

instead of 550EX?</I>

see my web page for a comparison:

http://www.kjsl.com/~dave/speedlites.html

You can use a linear polarizer with any camera - the film doesn't care

if its a circular polarizer or linear. As long as you can

assure that the subject is in focus and the scene is metered

correctly, you'll be ok. (with most cameras, only the spot meter and

AF sensor are affected by the wrong type of polarizer)

Over 200mm, the only way to correct chromatic aberration (color

speading) is to use exotic glass or fluorite - and that puts you into

"L" lens territory. All non-L lenses longer than 200mm will be

noticeable softer than their "L" counterparts.

<I> I will hike to the Mirror Lake and to the Vernal Fall (the Mist Trail). I'm a good hiker but not used to winter icy paths... are there any major difficulties with those paths? </I><P>

The Mist Trail will be difficult to impossible if temps drop below freezing while you're there (a probability in winter). However, you should be able to walk to the Vernal Fall Bridge without too much trouble.

<I>3. Since I wouldn't be able to afford to replace my Nikon lenses

exactly with Canon ones (and I would like to make a smaller kit for

all the traveling I do). Can anyone suggest a selection of primes that

might fit my usage? In 35mm equivalents I like 16 fisheye, 20, 35, 50

(sort of), 85, & 120-200 or so. Remember that the 1D has a 1.3x

focal length multiplier. </I><P>

Buy a Nikon/EOS lens adapter (about $30 on ebay). You can keep some

of your Nikon lenses as you gradually sell them off and acquire Canon

EF lenses.

A2E ECF will work with all Ed-"X" focus screens. However, with the

accessory screens, the focus point is not distictly illuminated in the

viewfinder.

There are other differences between the "XS" and "G": The Rebel G has

a manual mode metering scale in the viewfinder, the "XS" only has a

+/- indicator. The Rebel G allows the user to choose which of 3 AF

sensors (in some modes); the Rebel XS always chooses which focus

point.

No, you're stuck with memory sticks.... and you'll pay twice the $/MB.

Canon's ringlites can use adapters to mount on 52mm, 58mm or 72mm

filter threads.

Yes, you will have full-auto TTL with the 1N/550EX. In program mode,

the camera will expose for ambient light, but should the shutter speed

calculate to slower than 1/60, it will choose 1/60 and expose for

flash as the main light source. It will over-expose if the calculated

shutter speed is faster than 1/250 (and never allow faster than 1/250

without the special custom function). BTW, A-TTL adds very little

capability to "normal" TTL.

See <A

HREF="http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/cf_eos1n.htm">http://www.a1.

nl/phomepag/markerink/cf_eos1n.htm</A>, "SPECIAL CUSTOM FUNCTION 16".

Its my understanding that although the EOS-1N is incapable of E-TTL,

it can be reprogrammed with a special function that allows it to drive

an "EX" speedlite in FP/manual flash mode, that is the camera can use

the flash at a shutter speed higher than x-sync (1/250), but without

automatic metering.

The Olympus OM lens mount/film plane distance is 46mm, while the Canon

EOS distance is 44mm (see: <A

HREF="http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm">http://www.a1.nl

/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm</A>). There exist Nikon/EOS adapters

(Nikon F mount distance is 46.5mm), but they are very thin (2.5mm).

I've never seen an OM/EOS adapter, but I suppose they could exist

(would be only 2.0mm thick).

I had my sons awake me at 1 am (PST) and we drove to a remote site. We observed about 3 - 5 meteors per minute. I took 100 digital images of 8 seconds each - I only captured 5 meteor trails.

 

The best image can be seen at <A HREF="http://www.kjsl.com/~dave/misc/CRW_0632.jpg">http://www.kjsl.com/~dave/misc/CRW_0632.jpg</A>, although not that impressive. (The meteor trail was very dim and is noticeable only when cranking the brightness way up.)

see <A

HREF="http://www.kjsl.com/~dave/gr10.html">http://www.kjsl.com/~dave/g

r10.html</A>

<blockquote>"Somehow at pretty dim conditions, the camera select the

max aperture (f 2.8)"

<P>I don't know about the EOS 630, but the EOS 3 has a custom function

called 'program shift' that automatically shifts your exposure (even

the aperture in Av mode) to accomplish correct exposure. Could you be

using this function? Just a thought. </blockquote>

This would put the shutter speed out of the "hand-held" range....