maureen_m

I'm pretty sure the Kenko "Pro" line does.

<i>If I bring in a file that is a square format, does anyone know if they will stretch it or just print it at 8x8?

</i><p>When I want an odd format print such as 8x8, I give my local lab a file for an 8x10 that has the 8x8 image in the middle of it. Keep it simple for the monkeys.

Precisely why I only sell to "lower 48" U.S. buyers (I won't even ship to Alaska and Hawaii anymore, due to many outlying areas that have outrageous UPS rates that are several times my quoted flat rates). Canadians and Europeans often email me, trying to convince me that shipping to them is no more effort or expense, followed up with requests that I lie about "gift" status for them.

I like PN just the way it is.<p>PN's look can be compared to the understated elegance of the timeless little black dress, but unfortunately some people prefer Carmen Miranda and her tacky bowl-of-fuit hat.

John, the point of all this is simply that you need to do actual research (not just browsing) before buying equipment. And yes, you should read the manuals from cover to cover if you are not already thoroughly familiar with any particular system.<p>Many questions on these forums are answered in literature the questioners already possess, or can be answered by searching the archives here. A huge benefit of taking the time to research is all of the other knowledge you pick up along the way to the answer you are looking for.<p>Make no assumptions about compatibility - technology is constantly changing, and mistakes can be expensive in photography.

<i> HP was going to "fight back" against folks having prints done by Costco, Walmart or an online service by offering better priced paper.</i><p>Since HP consumables are said to be the most expensive per print, lowering the price of paper will just be smoke and mirrors if their ink cartridges don't come down in price or get filled with more ink. I would avoid HP.<p>For 4x6, I use a little Epson PictureMate printer for "29 cent" prints. It uses pigment inks, so the prints won't fade. Plus, if the ink in the $29 paper/ink bundle doesn't last for all 100 pieces of paper, <a href="http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/PictureMate/pmguarantee.jsp">Epson will reimburse you for the leftovers at the rate of 29 cents each, plus $1.10 for postage</a>. So far I've gone through 3 packs and only had 4 sheets left from one. Not enough to bother taking advantage of the guarantee.<p>For larger prints, take your pick of any of the excellent Epson printers. As for the marketing gimmick of printing without a computer, why would you want to do that? Any digital photo benefits from some editing before printing.

<i>"I just switched from Minolta to Canon about a year ago, and I'm new to this forum, so it was news to me."</i><p>Well, have you actually read your 300D's User Guide? On page 23 it clearly states:<br> <i>"The EF-S lens is dedicated to this camera. It cannot be attached to other EOS cameras."</i><p>Of course, that was written before the 20D was introduced.<p>Welcome to photo.net. John! You'll like it here, but this thread <i>is</i> going to get you some good-natured ribbing! ;-)

I just picked up a 512MB CF card at Sam's Club for about $43. But then, that's not online, it was a plain Lexar, and I don't know if you are in the U.S.

No adapter has the contacts.<p>Since that is the error code for "Clean the lens contacts, (p.9)", the adapter may be shorting out some contacts on the body, because the body should work fine with a contactless manual lens. Try another adapter.<p><a href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-manual-lenses/">photonotes.org has a good article on using manual lenses with EOS bodies.</a>

I thought I was looking at the opening credits to "Becker"...

Are you sure it is not transferring them, or is it just taking longer? RAW files are much larger than jpegs.<p>Are you using the camera or a card reader? Unless the 20D moves files a LOT quicker than previous Canon DLSRs, you'll save lots of time using a cheap card reader.<p>Also, what program are you using to see which files have been moved? Photoshop Elements doesn't support Canon RAW (.crw) files, and its browser won't show the presence of RAW files even if they are in the folder being browsed.

<i>"since it is only $70 BEFORE rebate, buy a 50/1.8"</i><p>Jim, I don't know where you are, but here in the US it's $70 before <i>and</i> after rebate (there is none). :-P<p>Shane, the best start is the 50/1.8 for $70 USD like Jim suggests. This will be an inexpensive way to see how bad the 28-90 is, and the fast 1.8 will give you a nice low-light option. Combined with the 10D, the 50mm will also be a very nice portrait lens at an effective 80mm.<p>If you want the best glass for the most reasonable price, go with Jim's "basic kit" suggestion. You could easily find that you never need to upgrade to anything else.

<i>If I could get $400 for each body (including the VG-10's on both)I think I'd be in the ball park.</i><P>And I would like to get $1200-1500 for my 1-1/2 year old 10D. ;-P<p>The Completed Auctions search at eBay shows A2s with VG-10s going for $125-$200, with a few going for a little more.

Until someone can give you the PP review (but their reviews are hardly objective - they are mostly interested in keeping their advertisers happy), <a href="http://www.google.com/search?as_q=review&num=10&hl=en&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=eos+3&as_oq=&as_eq=&lr=&as_ft=i&as_filetype=&as_qdr=all&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&as_occt=any&as_dt=i&as_sitesearch=&safe=images">Here are the Google results for "EOS 3" "review".</a>

Don't you mean the <b>75</b>-300 f4-5.6? The <b>70</b>-300 f4-5.6 is an $1150 "DO IS" lens.<p>I never liked the 75-300mm when I had it, for the same reason you mention. But now that I have seen <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=352882">Barry Walthall's photos,</a> I can no longer poo-poo that lens. Good technique can overcome the shortcomings.<p>Sure, a tripod is not the most convenient thing to use, but the results justify the burden.<p>The 75-300 and the 100-300 both get comments about being soft at the long end, so you may want to keep the 75-300 unless you go for a true upgrade to the 70-200/4L and the 1.4x extender. That's what I did, and -wow!- it was worth the money!

<br>If I remember correctly,<p>You need to extract the files from the .rar file with a program like <a href="http://www.winace.com/">WinAce</a>.<p>Then take extracted .fir file, put it on a CF card, put the card in the camera, power up the camera, and follow the instructions on the LCD, using the Cross keys and Set button on the 300D.<p>Also see <a href="http://www.bahneman.com/liem/photos/tricks/digital-rebel-tricks.html">http://www.bahneman.com/liem/photos/tricks/digital-rebel-tricks.html</a>

The text on the hood, other than the "Canon" logo, is different from genuine Canon hoods, and another auction for the same type hood states: "lens hood <i>as</i> (EW-60C) for Canon EOS EF 18-55mm... ...This is in <i>equivalence</i> with Canon EW-60C".<p>There you have it, another (likely) Chinese bootleg item.<P>If it is really made to the same specs as Canon's, there may not be any problem initially. But, will it break easier than the real thing, or will the mounting flanges wear loose? Canon often changes/improves the black paint/flocking in their hoods; is the interior black finish of this other hood adequate?<p>I would fork over the extra $10 for the real thing. Let us know the results if you buy the Chinese one.

The vendors who support photo.net are listed on the homepage, under "Support photo.net". In order for PN to get a kickback from those vendors, you <i>must</i> click on one of those links. Going to their website on your own cuts out any donation to photo.net.<p>The other listings you see from page to page are Google ads. Many of them have nothing to do with photography, as Google is just matching words from each webpage to keywords their advertisers want to target. That is where you get the seedier retailers, and photo.net has no control over what Google puts there.

Royal Scamera?<p><a href="http://www.resellerratings.com/seller1895.html">http://www.resellerratings.com/seller1895.html</a>

I don't trust businesses who hide their address! I can't find it anywhere on their website.<p>After a little digging on the net, I see that their website was registered on 8-30-2002, so at least they aren't brand new.<p>A web domain registry lists their address as<br>1010 10st<br>New York, NY<br>11111<br>Why couldn't they put that on their website?<p>On <a href="http://www.resellerratings.com/seller3900.html">www.resellerratings.com,</a> they have a rating of 0.50 on a scale of 0 - 10. <p>They are not listed on eBay under MyDigitalGear, but their customer service phone number (1-866-469-4327) shows up on eBay as <a href="http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=digitalgear">"digitalgear"</a>, with over 2000 feedbacks, 98.9% positive,<p>And that phone number is also listed on eBay as <a href="http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=digitalnetgear">"digitalnetgear"</a> with 421 feedbacks, 98.8% positive.<p>The eBay feedback looks pretty good, so <i>if </i>I were to do business with them, I would do it through eBay and PayPal for that (little bit of) extra protection.

Yup. See page 56 of your User's Guide.

<i>I'm shooting with multiple autofocus points but not dummy modes.</i><p>Oops! My mistake. I never let the camera pick an AF point, so I forgot that you can set auto AF point selection in the creative modes. Nonetheless, remember the bit about the Sigma and center-only AF assist.

There are a few <a href="http://search.ebay.com/eos-contax-adapter_W0QQbsZSearchQQcatrefZC6QQcoactionZcompareQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfromZR2QQsacategoryZQ2d1QQsbrftogZ1QQsofocusZbsQQsosortorderZ2QQsosortpropertyZ2QQsotrZ2">on eBay</a>. Of course, no adapter will ever let you use auto focus on a non-EOS lens.

Are you shooting weddings using the idiot modes? (The giveaway is that you mention the selection of multiple AF points.) That's a recipe for disaster.<p>Use the creative modes (M, Tv, Av, or even P), and <b>select the center AF point manually. The Sigma flash only provides AF assist for the center AF point.</b> As Hyun points out, if you must focus and then recompose, you'll need to use FEL first or the flash exposure will be off.

Since the 17-85 IS is an EF-S lens, it is not enough to say it is only to be used on 1.6x bodies; the lens can only be used on EF-S compatible bodies (currently the 300D/Digital Rebel and 20D). The 10D is 1.6x, and the lens cannot be used on it.<p>To me, $600 is a lot to spend on a non-"L" lens that is limited to 2 bodies; I would stick with the $700 17-40/4L.<p>But, if the 17-85 cost $400...