bill_g2

<p>I went EOS, then came back to FD as a second system. In my case, it was an A-1 body that was given to me, but needed to be repaired. I probably paid as much, maybe more, to get it repaired than it was worth.

 

<p>I do disagree with the note above about AE-1s being disposable. If I have a body that is working, but just needs a CLA, I'd rather do that than get another used camera. At least after the CLA I know that it is working 100% and that the shutter speeds are accurate. With a secondhand body, you never know and it might need a CLA anyway.

 

<p>My A-1 needed to have some electronics replaced. That's what drove the cost over the top. Just the CLA isn't so bad.

 

<p>One thing that FD has going for it above the Contax system you mention is the large market for secondhand equipment out there. There seem like hundreds of FD bodies and lenses on ebay at any given moment. So it is a lot easier to put togethe exactly the kit you want.

 

<p>Good luck!

<p>As far as I know, the only FD body with MLU is the Canon EF. It has everything else you are looking for, except spot metering.

 

<p>I guess you could use a handheld spot meter if you really need one.

 

<p>But if MLU isn't absolutely critical... get the T90.

<p>I think an A-1 would make a great addition. If you get into shooting B&W film and color, having two bodies makes things go a whole lot easier.

 

<p>BTW, where are you in Switzerland? I'm in Geneva. If it's close enough, I'd be happy to take a look at it. I shoot an A-1 as well.

Since we're posting kid pics....

 

<p>Here's one of my son. Taken a month ago.<div></div>

<p>I went with the 24mm. The main reason is that I fell in love with 35mm focal length when using rangefinders. That is my choice for the "if I can only have one lens" question.

 

<p>My rationale is that 35mm is so useful, that I'd eventually want one for my FD body. So, going for the 24mm at the wide end made a little more sense.

 

<p>Honestly.... I still haven't purchased that FD 35mm. I guess the reason is that when I need to travel so light that one lens is the rule... I usually pick up a rangefinder. I've started using my A-1 more with the 85mm and 135mm lenses.

 

<p>I'll get that 35mm eventually.

Trying again.<div></div>

Leica M6 TTL, 50 cron, Ilford HP5+<div></div>

<p>Going back to the original message regarding the injured photographer...

 

<p>I live in Geneva. The G8 meeting itself was in France, but Geneva is the nearest big city, so Geneva seemed to take the brunt of the protest violence. It was really a shame to see the video footage of protestors breaking out store windows and firebombing them with Molotov cocktails. Switzerland isn't even in the G8.

 

<p>I am truly sorry to learn that this photographer was injuried.

 

<p>I really wanted to go down to the protests and take some photos, but concern over this kind of incident was exactly the reason I didn't. If I were a professional photojournalist and it was my job, then of course I would have been there. But as an amateur photographer, I didn't want to risk getting swept up into a violent mob just for the sake of snapping a few shots.

 

<p>Learning about this incident convinces me that I did the right thing.

<p>Scott,

 

<p>If trying to fit the lens is you biggest objection, I think you could work it out. It should fit into the center padded divider without a hood attached. You could also move the divider over towards the body and carry the flash in the center, leaving a bit more room for the lens.

 

<p>As I said, I think it would work... but shooting out of it would be tough.

 

<p>Bill

<p>I have the bag so I did a quick test for you. Photo attached.

 

<p>I was able to fit an EOS 3 w/ BP-E1, 28-135 IS w/ hood attached, and the 550EX w/ Omnibounce attached. Film and filters would have fit into the outside two outside pockets. But then the bag is pretty much at capacity. Adding anything else would really require overstuffing the bag.

 

<p> The 28-135 IS was a little tight in that center divider with the lens hood attached, but the 28-80/2.8L should be smaller without the hood. Taking the BP-E1 off the body would have helped.

 

<p>Now having said that it <i>would</i> work, it certainly wouldn't be an easy setup to shoot out of because you obviously couldn't leave the lens attached. Since the top flap is not really sealed, I'd want to keep a body cover and rear lens covers on the lenses. This would make for a slow process to put the camera out and shoot.

 

<p>The beauty of the bag for rangefinder use is that you can leave the lenses attached. I have even carried a rangefinder plus a Canon A-1 with a lens or two in this thing, but it really got too heavy for comfort.

 

<p>If your only interest is transporting the stuff, then it would be okay. However, I'd have to guess that there would be many ways to transport gear if keeping it disassembled were an option. Even a regular soft briefcase would work.

 

<p>Good luck.<div></div>

<P>First time I've posted a photo to photo.net.

 

<p>When I think of glow, there are a couple of photos that come to mind. This is one of them.

 

<P>This was taken in a cafe in Germany, on the trip where we told her parents that they were going by grandparents by Christmas. She is about 10 weeks pregnant with our first child. It was taken one year ago this month.

 

<P>I don't know whether it meets the photography definition of glowing... but I can assure you that she was glowing in person!<div></div>

Great shot.

 

Did you do anything special for lighting?

One thing to add... it is absolutely amazing to me how many like new M6/M6 TTL cameras trade hands. I've hardly ever see one described as a user camera and, even then, there was little discount at all. So might as well look for a nearly new one.

<P>I shoot both EOS and FD. One thing that you'll be giving up is E-TTL flash. Maybe that's important to you, maybe not. Since I do have EOS, I never shoot flash photos with my FD gear. E-TTL is just too good.

 

<P>The only recommendation I'd make on your lenses is to get the 85/1.8 rather than the 100/2.8. Other than that, your list is exactly the list of primes that I have. I don't care for FD zooms. Compared to EOS, they are monsterously heavy.

 

<P>Do keep one of the digital P&S cameras. You may need it for a school project.

 

<P>The EOS->FD path does make some sense. However, I would point out that you would be starting over in a few years with digital. Another option would be to consider simply downsizing your EOS gear. Keeping the Elan 7 body and a couple of lenses might be almost as cost effective and you would still be forward compatible with the current crop of DSLRs.

<p>Everything that you see in the viewfinder should definitely be <i>on the negative</i>. In fact, there should be slightly more on the negative than what you saw.</p><p>

 

Now everything that shows up on the negative may not show up <i>on the print</i>. Labs typically crop a little off the edges and the print may not be exactly the same height to width ratio as the negative. 4x6 inch prints are the same ratio, but 5x7 and 8x10 are not.</p>

 

<p>Take a look at your negatives. It should all be there. If something is really critical, then you could have it reprinted.</p>

 

<p>Good luck,</p>

Bill

One thing I'm not crazy about with the Crumpler bag... all the velcro.

 

Seems like every time you open the bag, you annouce the fact with something that sounds like ripping a newspaper in half.

I've been using my Domke F2 for this purpose. Obviously it works and gives plenty of room.

 

It is not nearly as easy to use or discrete as the F803.

 

I'm definitely open to other suggestions as well.

 

The one option I think might be better is the F-6.

 

Good luck.