bjarke_schulin

It looks great,

It's a very nice image with good contrast, but it isn't the best subjekt to evaluate the work you have done, allthough a very nice camera I have a 124 G myself

nicholas,

I would like the article too...

Thanks in forward bjarke_2@hotmail.com

I have searched for anyone who has expirence with delta 100 (120)

and 135mm in rodional, I have tried it in Id-11 stock and DD-x.

I look for result like agfapan 100 in rodional 1:25, but with finer

grain, I wonder if this is posibel??

Thanks in forward bjarke,

If you like your results, don't change anything!

But If you would like more contrast as anyone else wants, you should properbly develod your film a few mins more.

Good luck bjarke,

Spray silicone.. the rubber wil look like new.

bjarke,

I have had great results with the epson 3200 scanner and silverfast se supplied software.

i have never used a real mediumformat negative scanner so I can't compare the differens..

I'm fifteen,

shoot a rolleiflex 3.5 planar and a yashica mat 124 G.

I do my own b/w processing, i still think medium format is the only way to achive "wall hangers" with out the bulk of large format, and expense of the mega $$$$$$$$ digital backs.

Bjarke,

Ohh, sorry Marco wrong spelling thanks again..

bjarke,

Thanks Marcus!

bjarke,

this tape is proberbly not to protect the lens, but to hide any uggly nikon/canon symbols.

I use normal black tape on both my camera and lenses/lenscaps.

This tap reduce, this prevent you getting your gear stolen..

regards bjarke

may I try to crop it in photoshop Max?

bjarke,

If you want a nikon you can "grow" with and don't want a manual body as I prefer get the f80/n80, it's light good AF. and has all the features you will need.

I would recommnd you got a real nikkor standard zoom like a 28 80 G, or the better the 24 85 G. Instead of a 28 200/300 because these zooms have porer image quality.

Then you can save for a tele zoom later like the nikkor 75 300

And remember it saves you a lot of money to buy used..

happy shooting bjarke,

I have the same problem with getting diafine in europe I live in Denmark, if I import from US the danish costmers demands 30% toll and tax..

I'm to is very interested i'n finding a dealer in europe.

thanks in forward bjarke,

Think it is tri-x rodional 1:25 @ 200iso and developed in 8-9mins

Look very much like this: www.ralphgibson.com

regards bjarke,

I have used both at te recommended developing time @ 400iso

Hp5: looks much flatter to me than 400tx, and have less kontrast.

400tx also seems to have tihgter grain nd deeper blacks but weeker highlights.

If you like fp4+ i'll think you'll like hp5+ better.

Try both bjarke,

First warm the water to 50 C dedress, and make sure the part A is fully dissolves, then add part B slowly while stirring, continue stirring until the crystals are dissolved, the you add 250 ml. of cold water.

This way works for me..

regards bjarke,

Your scans look perfect to me...

for the reels... this seems to be a problem for every newbie...

go get some very outdated film on ebay, when your wathching the tv just sit and load without looking at the reel. a good idea is to get a changing bag so you can load the reels in daylight, i find i takes of the strees, and the film become easyer to load.

hope this will help you bjarke,

try to print your negs, or if you acces to a film scanner try to make a straight scan and post. Don't think your lab is right. you night have better negs yourself. just don't conclude anything before you have worked wth yur negs.

best luck bjarke,

thanks d.p.

very usefull critick....

regars bjarke,

Thanks!

I think i will pick a nice Canon Ql-17.. in germany..

And see if i like it..

And by the way i would like some critics on this image(you leica guys post images on your forum cool..<div></div>