dave_beekman

I've been very pleased with T400 cn, processed by my local minilab &

printed by myself. The film is extremely sharp & fine grained when

shot @ 400; shot at 100 or 200 actually makes the grain even finer. I

haven't tried it, but I'm told it can be shot at 800, 1600, even 3200

with no change in developing, and the results are still very good.

Grain does increase though. Having it printed on color paper at the

minilab is usually kind of disappointing- the prints invariably have a

brown or bluish tone. But that's ok, I enjoy printing but processing

is boring. One thing to remember- this is really a color emulsion,

and as such, is not archival like true B&W.

I just picked up a used Minolta Auto Meter IIIf (for $90- not bad, huh?) and I'm wondering if Minolta ever made a spot attachment for it, like the one for the IVf. Or will the IV's attachment fit the III?

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TIA,

Dave

Thanks for your responses. 14 year old son is rethinking the whole

thing.

My son wants to buy the Canon waterproof P&S. B&H lists the Shure Shot A1 at $135; Ritx has the Sure Shot WP1 for $70. The two cameras look identical, and the specs seem identical. Is there a difference between these two cameras? Is the WP1 just a renamed A1? If so, why the disparity in price? I've checked Canon's website, but they only list the A1.

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TIA,

Dave

I really don't think your chances of screwing up are "really large",

or even moderately large. B&W processing is easy; just follow all the

steps, and make sure your chemicals are fresh. But why not shoot a

couple of rolls now that you're back home and practice with those? You

don't even have to wait till school starts- all the equipment you

need to develop 35mm film (not counting chemicals, which you'd have to

buy anyway) can be bought for around $75. You can load the tank in a

changing bag, then the rest of the work is done in the light.

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I say go for it! If you're still not feeling confident, then you can

send your important stuff out.

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"Think you can, or think you can't. Either way, you'll be right"-

Henry Ford

Custom function C05 controls this. Set it to 1, use the self-timer,

and the mirror will flip up and 2 seconds later the shutter will fire.

Hello Joseph-

In the PIC modes (that is, all the settings below the "L" on the

dial)focus point is selected by the camera; eye control and manual

selection is overridden. In fact, the metering type, film advance, and

focus modes are also selected by the camera. So you have an expensive

P&S when you use those modes.

Hope this helps. Don't forget to RTFB.

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Dave

Maybe it's NOT an acronym- Eos was the goddess of the dawn in Greek

mythology; Canon may have used all upper case letters so as to be able

to trademark it. I'm just guessing, you understand. But I don't

pronounce it Ee Oh Es, do you?

John-

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Last year I bought an Elan IIe & 28-105, and I think it's a terrific

camera- the lens is as sharp as any zoom has a right to be, and a very

handy range & size; I don't think you can go wrong with it as a first

lens. I do wish I had spent the extra $70 for an A2, however. The

Elan is fine, but a real spotmeter is a powerful tool which can teach

you a lot about exposure if you care to learn how to use it. The

Elan's "fat spotmeter" is a rather poor substitute. Also, I wound up

shooting lots of skiing & snowboarding this winter, and a faster

advance would have been nice at times. As for the Eye Control, well,

yes, it works, but I find I leave it turned off most of the time- for

fast moving subjects, it's not quick enough, and for static subjects,

it's unnecessary. I thought it would be a lot more useful than it

turned out to be, for me anyway. YMMV.

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If I were doing it again, I'd buy the A2 (not A2e), but again, the

Elan is a great body, so if you do buy it, you won't be sorry.

Kevin-

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I switched from manual focus to AF gear last year, and I went through

the same thing you are; the more I read the Photo.net content, the

more confused I got. My budget was the N70- Elan II price range. In

the end, I chose the Canon, because of the DOF preview (which I use

all the time, and which I had on my old Pentax gear) and the multiple

exposure capabilities, which I don't use often but it's so basic that

I don't think any SLR should not have it. The Canon focusing is also

quite incredible (fast) but the Nikon isn't bad either. I wear

glasses, and while the Nikon does have a much better viewfinder, I

don't find the Canon's a problem. It's much better than my Pentax MX

was.

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Although I bought the Canon, and have never regretted it, I'm sure I

would have been just as happy with Nikon. The camera you pick is just

a tool, after all- don't get too wrapped up in features and

specifications. Buy quality lenses, burn lots of film, and make use of

the wealth of knowledge on Photo.net and other forums (like this one).

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Good luck