timothy_nolan

I have a late 80s Metz 45 CT-4. I can power it on, as evidenced by the LEDs for

Auto, TTL, Man, and Wind lighting and changing per the current setting, however

it won't charge or fire.

 

Anyone have any idea on where to send for repair?

Hey Nuno,

 

My only advice is to read *everything* here in the forums. Yeah, you'll find conflicting opinions, but this place is my gold-standard for great info on B&W processing. No classes required if you're an astute reader and willing to experiement. I re-learned B&W processing here after a 25 year layoff and am getting great results...and even have my own opinions now. :-P

I've never managed to tame HP5+ grain with rodinal, though its not as horrific as say, APX400 in rodinal (salt and pepper everywhere!). I think all your hardware and film is fine, I just might suggest my go-to developer for creamy skin tones: Xtol.

 

Very nice results on skin. Along with Rodinal its one of my two main soups.

I won't get into times necessarily, but yeah, as above, APX100 and FP4+ love Rodinal. Plus-X too, for that matter.

 

Do try 'em.

I have an N65 too - same issue with DX encoded film. You can still tweak the ISO rating by using using exposure compensation for the whole roll though if you're shooting in an auto mode...

Here's the link to my thread with the same problem:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00ALd3

Having just gotten this with weak rodinal, I think your answer is the same one I got - Bromide drag - Might wanna see the post I had answered a few weeks back...

 

I'm told this is due to weak, nearly exhausted developer - how old is this batch of XTol?

Thanks for the hints here - indeed the outside is keep spotless, but the inside *is* building up quite a haze of some sort.

 

Assuming I need to crack it open. Any advice on the pitfalls of doing so?

I have an Epson Perfection 1660 Photo scanner which also has an EU-33

120/4x5 auxilliary head for scanning larger format film. I use the

standard 1660 head for scanning 35mm.

 

When scanning 120 negs with the EU-33 I've always had a single dark

line across every scan, which I've just used photoshop's healing

brush to repair. I now have up to three lines (oddly of varying

widths) on scans on the EU-33. Also, the line has begun to appear on

the standard head across all my 35mm strips. Seems to be the scanner,

since this is occuring on two computers I've tested it on.

 

Anyone have a clue what this is and whether a fix can be had, or is

this something like buffer memory in the scanner fritzing on me?

...strictly speaking, reaction mechanisms and such are the province of physical chemistry, the hardest college class you can take...

 

...so be careful what you wish for...

 

:D

Not certain this belongs here, didn't quite seem to merit a new thread, but I'll let Lex sort that out...

 

I've used neither acros or ss - can someone highlight the differences briefly and/or compare and constrat with my beloved fp4+ and apx100?

...might wanna try TXP @ 1200 in diafine...

 

...has worked well for me in the past...

 

...i agree that neopan 400 pushed to 1600 well though...

...i doubt you'd see a difference and to those that think the EM is mediocre, well, it's my 'car' camera and lives in my console on my explorer, fitted with a 43-86mm nikkor lens...

 

...for 27 bucks of ebay, i hardly consider it mediocre, as it offers me the opportunity to shoot whenever, wherever without worry of being stolen...

i agree with dan, the 85 f/2 and 105 f2.5 are *must* lenses...

...i use my old nikon AI and AIS lenses in manual mode on my D70 with great results...

 

...you have preview and histogram, so it's easy to dial in the right exposure...

 

...and they're silly-cheap on ebay...

...i have exactly the same lenses as Lex, and i agree on all points...

 

...but my 50mm f/1.8 merits equal status...

 

...i've only recently rediscovered my 50, but perhaps you should too...

Really impressive, Dennis, thanks for the directions...

 

*Way* beyond my current photoshop abilities, but no time like the present to learn.

 

Thanks!

Example attached...<div></div>

Not sure if I implied oxygenation in the tank, but my thoughts on the developer being exhausted, I believe, occured in the almost-empty Rodinal bottle, not the tank itself...Thanks for chiming in though, Patrick

I have two rolls of B&W negatives from a recent shoot that suffered

from "bromide drag" - regularly spaced light/dark banding across the

negative between the sprocket holes. This was apparently caused by

weak/exhausted developer and my agitation method.

 

Is there a way in photoshop to create a new layer, isolate this

banding, invert it and apply over the original? Alternatively I'm

left to a whole *lot* of dodging/burning.

 

Thanks for any help in advance.

Yes, that helped, Alexis, I'll try that.

 

The tank was an Omega two-reel, Jim...probably should've just loaded all four reels (2x35 and 2x120) into my Paterson eight-reel, but being 400TX shot at 320 and TXP at 320, I didn't know till I was done with the 35mm that I'd arrive at the smae time (17 min) for both at 1+100.

 

The real lesson for me here is to accept all the savings I've had previously with Rodinal 1+100 and not let economy dictate what I use when its already silly its so cheap.

 

Thanks to all of the above for the advice.

Well, comet tail, yes...

 

On the neg it is a dark 'comet' *between* sprockets or a light 'comet' *on* the line of the sprockets...

 

Strikes me that this could have been pooped out rodinal, since I was killing off a bottle from early summer. (yeah, I know it usually lasts forever, but perhaps not when there's about 10ml left in the 125ml bottle - lesson learned. Also my TXP 120 was done with the *new* bottle and came out fine. Not that I'd see sprocket streaks but its even and snappy as I'd expect.

 

Strikes me as likely that this was it, given that I've done 1+100 a squillion times before. Thanks for the clue.

I just developed a couple rolls of new Tri-X 35mm tonight, exposed at

320, 17 min. in Rodinal 1+100, nothing unusual for me...I've done

this or similar combinations a hundred times.

 

I have sprocket streaks like crazy on both reels, every frame...can

someone tell me A> what agitiation method is *least* suceptible to

sprocket marks and B> if higher dilutions make it more likely to

occur because of local developer exhaustion?

I do quite a bit of classic looking 'pinup' sort of work and use Forte 200 quite a bit for it...I generally use hard lighting and overdevelop about 10% to get something of a 40s look...just love the stuff for this purpose.

 

I think I'm settling on HC-110B for it...Rodinal is just too overwhelming, grain-wise.

 

Keep playing with it...you'll find uses, though I disagree that it could/should replace ilford films...nothing in the least about it is FP4+ ish.

...i might even call it the 'universal' developer, even though at the lunatic fringe where i live, it has seen less usage...

 

...would others consider hc-110 more universal? i doubt it...

 

...you're highly unlikely to get bad results, regardless...