Two23

I think after getting a new lens (e.g. Sigma 17-50mm f2.8,) your next step is to buy a couple of flash and learn how to use them. The use of Light is everything in a portrait. Kent in SD

I too recommend the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 lens. It's outstanding and affordable. I own one myself. Really, it's the lens that is the most important thing. You need lens upgrades more than a camera. Your camera is decent for what you are doing. I shot a couple of dozen weddings with a pair of D7100 along with family portraits. The quality was always more than good enough for my customers. It's easy to start dumping huge amounts of $$ into camera gear, especially "full frame" stuff. I suggest starting with the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8, and next maybe either the Sigma 50-150mm f2.8 OS (used, from ebay) or a NIkon 70-200mm f4 VR. Eventually, a logical camera upgrade is the Nikon D7200 or even a D7100. For portraits, a good two flash lighting system will make the single biggest difference in you shots--more than lenses & cameras combined. When you control the light, you have real power! Most of what I have I've bought used. I've saved thousands. Kent in SD

My strategy has been to wait 18-24 months when the prices of used ones dip below $2,000. (Ideally between $1,500--1,800.) Buying a used one after 1.5 to 2 years after introduction seems to be the sweet spot. I really can't justify spending $3,000 for a digital camera; they lose value so fast. I would not hesitate to spend that much or more on a historic camera, such as a wet plate camera from the Civil War (1860s). Those are not only cool but historically hold their value well. Meanwhile, my plan is to completely skip the D810 and wait awhile until D850 can be snagged at "my" price. Until then I'll keep using the D800E. I really hate spending $$ on cameras--they just don't seem to improve my type of photography much. I'd rather spend the money on travel. Kent in SD

Looks like my 50mm f1.2 AiS stays coupled on my F3T. Kent in SD

Sharpest lenses are the Sigma ART, if that's what you're looking for. Kent in SD

Usually you are better off putting money into lenses than a camera. Kent in SD

I'm hoping most for another jaw dropping lens from Sigma! Kent in SD

Most of you are concentrating on "image quality," but there are other reasons people like cameras. I like the historical aspects of using a camera, and the actual process of using them. So, what was my very first photo related purchase for 2018? I just ordered a box of 4x5 dry plates and two plate holders. These were popular from 1880 to 1930. I'm fascinated by plate photography and want to try it myself. To me it's sort of a craft. All my pioneer photographer heroes shot dry plate--WH Jackson in Omaha, Stanley Morrow in Yankton, Dakota, Solomon Butcher in western Nebraska, and FJ Haynes in Fargo. Using a phone to take photos just isn't the same for me. Kent in SD

Yes, but there is a growing number of people who are just tired of hauling around FX camera gear and want something smaller. Image quality is good enough in the current DX sensors--better than what I was getting with Hassleblads 15 years ago. These are the people who are buying Fuji X and M43. Nikon is shrinking because they don't have the right lens mix for their small DX cameras, and don't seem to be taking these customers seriously. Kent in SD

I've quit using my D800E on trips (especially airline trips to big cities) because of the weight and bulk. Really, the image quality of the Nikon DX sensors is great! Right now I'm using a D5300 with Sigma 17-50mm f2.8. What I'd really like is a small 12mm f2 to add to the 17-50mm. OR, a very small 16mm, the 35mm f1.8 DX, and a small 60 or 70mm DX f2 or f2.8. My lens kit for my F3T is AiS 28/50/105mm, and for my Leica IIIc 28/50/90mm Elmars. I really like three lens kits where the focal length doubles. I didn't even consider taking my D800E on my Seattle trip last month. I took a Rolleiflex to use in the day, and the D5300 to shoot at night. There were a lot of bums/winos all over and I was afraid of getting robbed, so I took less expensive and less conspicuous camera gear. Kent in SD

I love winter. It's absolutely my favorite time of year for photography! It's like I'm living in a whole new place. I have the clothing to deal with anything down to around 50 below. Kent in SD

In the end, the camera will make the least difference in your photography. I selected Nikon because there were more lenses and accessories available. Here's a graph showing the sensor performance of Canon 5 D4, Nikon D500, Nikon D850, D800E. Note how virtually nonexistent the difference is between the $3,200 D850 and the $1,000 D800E. This is why I refuse to pay big money for camera bodies--the difference to justify it just isn't there. Read Noise in DNs versus ISO Setting Read Noise in DNs versus ISO Setting For some reason the link won't save the D500/D800E/D850/Canon 5D4 comparison. You can add them yourself by clicking on the camera from the list. What you're going to see is there is virtually no difference at all that shows up on a graph. Kent in SD

There is NO WAY I'd buy a new D810. They run $2,800! I see nice used ones on ebay that sold for $1,550. Buying a new one is flushing $1,300 down the toilet--you get nothing for that money. You could buy a pair of used Sigma ART lenses for that! A much better use of the money. I buy used gear --all- --the-- --time-- and have never had a problem. I don't go by shutter count on cameras, I go by how they look. Condition is everything as it shows it was taken care of. Theoretically a camera could have a very low shutter count, but that was because it's a lemon and spent most of its time in the repair shop! In the past two years I"ve owned six Nikon DSLR, all purchased at relative bargain prices on ebay. I have no idea what the shutter count is on any of them. It's not like I'm out taking thousands of shots with them every week, so it doesn't matter. If a camera had half a million clicks on it, it would look like it did. Kent in SD

I still shoot weddings some and use a pair of D800E. I would not even consider using a D4. The reasons? Number one it's a much heavier camera. Weddings are generally an all day ordeal and a heavy camera will just kill you, especially coupled with even heavier pro lenses. Second reason is the resolution of the D800E has helped me pull a rabbit out of the hat on at least a few occasions. Third, a used D800E is less money tied up than a used D4. --->and remember, for weddings, you need TWO of them. It's best to have two of the same cameras: same menu, same buttons, same handling, same look to the images, same same same. No missing shots because you're menu diving or had the camera set wrong by accident. You need TWO! Kent in SD

I've been using a Sigma 35mm f1.4A on my D800E for a couple of years now. It's the sharpest lens I've ever owned (with possible exception of the Sigma 50mm f1.4A.) I'm constantly looking at new lenses as they come out and evaluating them. There is still nothing sharper out there than the Sigma 35mm f1.4A. I use a tripod for almost every shot to maximize the sharpness. That said, my standard day pack is now Nikon 24mm PC-E, Sigma 50mm f1.4A, Nikon 105mm f2.8 Micro. If Nikon did not make the 24mm PC-E, I'd have the Sigma 24mm f1.4A. That lens is actually sharper than the Nikon PC-E, but I find the lens movements indispensable for landscape and architecture. Kent in SD

With your current gear you have no chance. (1) your flash will reach out about 20 feet, max, and the setting will swallow up light very quickly (2) The 18-200mm lens would be my last pick for this job as it's very slow (3) Camera is limited to around ISO 1200 for any kind of quality. My advice: (1) Forget flash, the distance will be too great unless you position large flash around the rink and fire with radio controlled iTTL triggers. (2) Rent a Nikon D750 for the event (3) Rent a Nikon or Tamron/Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 for the event. Kent in SD

I've been using an Epson v700. The Epson software does not work with the newer Windows I have, so I tried Silverfast. I couldn't get it to work for me very well. I now use Vuescan without problem. I've been reasonably happy with it. Kent in SD

I would put as little money into a camera as possible. A used D7200 will do what you want. A decent two-flash lighting system is going to cost at least $500 and probably more than the camera. My camera is worth ~$1,000; my lighting system is worth ~$4,500. You are also a bit weak on lenses for what you are doing. Don't even consider buying a new D500. Kent in SD

I was thinking of wedding/portrait use. I've tried the SB600/Sb700, and they just didn't have enough power to use with umbrellas/softboxes, at least not any at reasonable ISO. I used to have a pair of SB-800. What I liked about them was the small size. What I didn't like was they are indeed complicated, i.e. number of menu steps etc. They were the only flash I've owned that I felt it necessary to bring the manual along so I could figure them out. The SB-900 are larger, but the menu is much simpler. Something like an SB-700 would make a nice smaller flash for travel, but I wouldn't want it for paid work. Kent in SD

The SB-800 should work on both types of cameras, but the menu on that model is very complicated. I own about ten Nikon SB-25 but only use them with "dumb" manual radio triggers. It's a solid flash and can be had for $30 on ebay. For a DSLR, I'd go with a used Nikon SB-900. The smaller flash such as SB-600 really don't have enough power to do much. Kent in SD

The most recent ultrawide of note is the Sigma 14mm f1.8. That's the one I'm after. I don't want the bulk of the f2.8 ultrawide zooms, and have been getting into astro work. Will probably end up selling my Nikon 20mm f1.8G, even though it's a great lens. I just don't think I need anything between 14mm and the 24mm PC-E I already have. I can make perfect pano stitches with the 24mm PC-E that act give similar results to a zoom in that range without the extra bulk. I find the movements of the 24mm T/S much more versatile than having an ultrawide zoom. I use them a lot! Kent in SD

The one lens not mentioned so far that is highly regarded is the Tamron 15-30mm f2.8. I shot with one at an air show last year. It gave great results, however it is a beast! Kent in SD

Currently over 12 SB-25 for sale ebay Buy It Now $19 to $35. The sheer number of them for sale testifies to their reliability, I think. Kent in SD

The best one available is the Sigma 14mm f1.8. It's on my shopping list. Sharpness Tests of the Sigma 14mm f/1.8 DG HSM Art Sigma 14mm f/1.8 DG HSM Art Review | PhotographyBLOG Kent in SD Kent in SD

The Cowboy stuff and the other kits are mostly designed for portraits. You want the white translucent shoot-through style umbrellas. This is what will work for you: Smith-Victor RS2 Raven 2-Section Light Stand (6.5') 401228 B&H Impact Swivel Umbrella Adapter CA-108 B&H Photo Video Phottix Photo Studio Shoot Through Umbrella PH85350 B&H Photo One of these: Yongnuo RF-602N Wireless Flash Trigger Set for Select RF-602N Two of these: Yongnuo RF-602RX Wireless Flash Receiver RF-602RX B&H Photo and go to Walmart and buy x2 8-packs of Ray-o-vac rechargeable hybrid batteries, plus a charger. Recharge AA 8-Pack Batteries | Rayovac ® You can use regular alkaline AAA in the flash triggers--they don't use much power. And, you're all set. For this kind of photography, you are generally matching flash output to ambient light. The golden rule is: aperture controls flash, shutter controls ambient. I suggest the standard text book on lighting: "Light: Science & Magic." Read that and you'll have 90% of all you need to know. Or, maybe watch some Youtube videos on real estate lighting. Kent in SD