scott_ferris

October 1, 2012

That is not an example of changing perspective to alter the relative sizes of foreground and background subjects, that is a

simple example of using a longer focal length from the same place to crop your image! If you crop the 62mm image you

can get the 300 mm image from it, the perspective has not changed.

To get the bridge and the skyline in shot and bigger in relation to the boats, note the boats and buildings are the same

size in relation to each other, use a longer focal length from further away!

This

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/dof2.shtml

is an example of using different focal lengths to alter the relative size of near and far objects , the gremlin and tower do

not change in size but their sizes in relation to each other do, you have to change position to change perspective.

October 1, 2012

Get a Flat File cabinet, a used one off eBay will be much better than a new one too, the old good ones last for years,

most are made of metal but the really nice ones are made of wood, they are a great piece of furniture to put a big printer

on as well.

Yes digital prints need to dry, it isn't so much the ink is wet, though initially it is, but the inks let off small amounts of gas

and if stacked this can warp the sandwiched prints. I forget Epsons recommendation but seem to recall about an hour or

two. After this prints can be stacked but most people will put a sheet of tissue paper or better yet, glassine paper,

between each print.

October 1, 2012

A couple of years ago Canon were suggesting they would be able to vary the iso across the image, higher for darker

areas and lower for lighter ones, to effectively make them have a far higher dr, but as they are so secretive and you never

really know what is happening to all that processing power in your camera we might already be getting it, or something

similar, or it might have been a Chinese whisper put out for some other reason.

One thing is for sure, despite the fact we have the most capable cameras ever, and a greater choice of models and

systems than ever, progress will not stop.

To any who say it isn't the equipment but the photographer I would suggest to add it depends on your field of expertise,

very often it is both, I just saw some 10,000 iso images shot at 12fps with the latest super accurate focusing telephotos

that were not possible until now.

On the other hand I am plodding away quite happily with my five year old body and ten year old lens. Though I know I am

now missing shots due to comparatively limited high iso capabilities.

October 1, 2012

So go the other side of the freeway. The longer the lens the bigger the distant object will look in relation to the closer

object. This is basic perspective 101, using a wider lens and going closer to the dorms will make the market even smaller.

This kind of misrepresentation is not new either, the Hyatt in DC got in trouble for using this image

http://www.deceptology.com/2010/08/this-congressional-deception-is-not.html

It was shot with a long telephoto, don't forget just because you are the other side of the freeway doesn't mean you need

to include it in the image.

September 27, 2012

Yougnuo RF-603, very reliable, very cheap, big improvement over RF-602 that I have used without issue for several

years.

September 20, 2012

Remote 600ex-rt's can be fired by multiple cameras so shooters can share remotes.

Ettl works very well and consistently if you understand how the metering is working and where your flashes are

illuminating the subject and this light is being metered.

The Bolt CBP-C1 is $75 and halves recycle times using AA's.

September 19, 2012

There is no comparison, you get what you pay for and the Manfrotto is one third the price of the RRS, having said that for

the same money as he RRS I found the Acratech GP a much better deal and head.

September 19, 2012

As cheap wireless remotes I see this camera selling by the ton to pros and creative types, let alone the crop camera

upgrade market it is more probably aimed at.

I have used remotes at weddings and live music venues but haven't been fully happy with them, however with full control

over shooting functionality and live feedback I can see putting one in a soundproof box (old pelican case) and shooting

where I have never been allowed before. I recently really wanted to put a remote in a foliage archway where a couple

were getting married but I knew I needed exposure control, this new camera would have been perfect for that application.

I have wanted to put controllable remotes on stages for live music too but the cost of the complete setup was prohibitive,

not now, the three song rule is going to be blown out of he water where I shoot!

I have used a setup similar to Dave, but I used an Eye-Fi card in my 1Ds MkIII to send small jpegs to an iPad for

interested people to view the output in "real time", it works very well but gives no camera control.

I think the 6D functionality is perfect and short of abysmal sensor or AF performance I will be getting at least one.

September 17, 2012

They have exactly the same power output at the same zoom settings, the 600 just gets a bigger number because it

zooms further.

September 9, 2012

That lens and that camera are both capable of accurate stopped down metering.

What you have to do is push in the stop down lever/dof preview lever, and put you aperture to where you want it, you then

adjust your shutter speed (and or iso) until the small red square lines up with the 5.6 number, the midpoint, on the

aperture range in the viewfinder, this gives you an accurate midtone reading. The key to understanding this is that the

aperture numbers in the viewfinder become irrelevant, they are no longer aperture readings as the meter scale is now

different, all it is is a needle that needs to point horizontally for a correct midtone exposure.

There is no advantage to using the camera like this though, however the meter is just as accurate, all it allows you to do

is use older lenses that didn't have the same level of automation, it also helps with dof preview but it makes accurate

focusing more difficult and the viewfinder brightness is much lower.

August 30, 2012

You don't need to be a wildlife expert to know Richard White and Timothy Treadwell both broke the rules that were put in place to protect them. They paid a very high price for intentionally breaking those rules, so did the bears.

August 25, 2012

Dan South,

Your response to my input is greatly appreciated and was the type of discussion based reply I was hoping for.

G Dan Mitchell,

Post it, report me, I don't care, but if you do post it, and I really don't care or consider it harassment, please post it in full. Several times I have been told that I should have PM'ed people instead of posting in public, when I do people overreact like this. If you do then why not also post section 2 of the guidelines in full? Oh, and explain how it, and this nonsense, is adding to the thread.

As I said, I am done with forums, I am sure I won't be missed.

August 24, 2012

No I didn't have a bad day, in fact I had a very productive day so this is my good side.

There are exactly zero links to my blog or anywhere else in my post.

</blockquote>

Whatever......

David wrote:

"Dan, thanks for investing all that time in a rather complete and balanced response. It's too far down in this thread to be a "sticky", but it'd be nice somewhere in the forum."

Thanks for your comment, David. I posted a slightly modified and updated version of this commentary at my blog today: <a href="http://www.gdanmitchell.com/2012/08/21/photographic-myths-and-platitudes-primes-make-you-a-better-photographer" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Photographic Myths and Platitudes: Primes Make You a Better Photographer</a>

Dan

</blockquote>

Dan, you should know from my posting history I have a huge respect for your comments generally, however I felt Richards original post deserved at least a counterpoint to the tidal wave of negativity that the thread has garnered.

I'd like to take this further, but the truth is my inclination for posting has very much waned, I am sure I won't be missed.

August 24, 2012

You don't think that is helpful because you are so used to seeing a similar question, phrased in a variety of ways, that you virtually switch off and give your automatic reply, with accompanying links to your blog.

I had to laugh at some of your suggestions, this one really struck a cord "Will getting a new camera strap make me a better photographer?" I know more than one person who has shot much more (and "better") since getting a Black Rapid type strap. Why would changing from a 30D to a 1D MkII make you a better photographer, why would getting a lens coat make you a better photographer, why would getting a different strap make you a better photographer? I don't know, none of them worked for me but I have seen each of them work for other people.

I am sorry but in my opinion for any keen photographer to thoughtfully change their system, format, and lenses, is so dramatic that that choice couldn't fail to change their photography, that change could easily result in an improvement, or not. A touch more relevant than diet and dress sense I am sure you would agree.

My point was Richards question was not the normal zoom vs prime argument, it was much more than that, and even if you take the intangibles out and just start discussing the tangibles the change in his gear is so dramatic I believe he couldn't avoid changing his photography to some degree. Whether that is for the better or not is the interesting intangible.

August 24, 2012

Good to see the selective quoting continues.....

Keith: "Different" is not "better"."

Scott: "now if that difference changes your output then it might have made you a "better" photographer."

Kieth:"the correct answer remains as no."

No, the true "correct" answer, without knowing Richard and the way he shoots personally, has to be it might.

August 24, 2012

Every answer that says no has totally ignored the answer I gave days and pages ago! How can a lens cover help you take more compelling images? It can I have seen it happen.

It has got nothing to do with the IQ of the lenses, or indeed any aspect of the lens in and of itself, it has everything to do with the intangible factors that make each individual tick. Liken it to using a tripod, if you always shot at fast enough shutter speeds to get sharp images would using a tripod change what you do? For the vast majority of users a tripod does so much more than hold the camera off the ground, you work "differently", now if that difference changes your output then it might have made you a "better" photographer. And lets be clear, that term "better photographer" can only mean do I like my pictures better now than I did before.

In reply to Richard's initial question, the answer has to be yes, how could such a change not affect the way you shoot and your subsequent output? And who are we to say it might not be for the better? Of course it could be for the worse too.

Richard did not ask the all too common version of this question where the direct comparison between IQ of the different lenses is the key aspect of his inquiry, he is more interested in the way different gear would encourage him to work differently. I would challenge anybody who uses both regularly to say they don't have different considerations when working with primes and zooms. I work completely differently when I have a 100mm prime on my camera than I do when I have a 70-200 of the same aperture on there.

August 22, 2012

Dilip,

The lens design is different to make a larger, or smaller, image circle, but the projection of the center portion is identical whatever size your capture medium.

A 50 is a 50 is a 50.

August 22, 2012

"At least that is how I worked with basic bellows cameras with limited movements."

"It does depend on what sort of camera you are using"

"So it does depend on if you know the potential of your gear."

"Thanks Tom but I am aware of the potential movements."

"If you were aware of how older cameras worked you would appreciate what I am talking about instead of nit picking."

Those are all statements not questions, and they are all wrong, and that leaves out all the personal stuff.

So I take it from your reply you can't explain how your Thornton Pickard worked differently after all and it is safe for future readers to refer to Tom's Wikipedia link as authoritative.

August 22, 2012

JC,

Why not take a picture of your camera, or link to one off the internet if you no longer have it, that illustrates how your camera is different, how the rules of terminology are altered for the use of a Thornton Pickard. I can assure you I am very familiar with how many older cameras work, I do fully appreciate what you are saying and that is why I am saying you are wrong.

Either the lens board is parallel to the film plane, in which case any movement is a shift, rise or fall (or a combination), or the lens is not parallel with the film plane, in which case the movement is tilt or swing (or a combination). Rotating the camera does not change the angle of the lens board to the film/sensor plane, so rotating a camera does not mean "Shift becomes tilt and tilt becomes shift".

Please understand, I am not following this up to be pedantic, nit pick, nor indulge in foolish sniping, I am doing this in the public forum because it is searchable and I would hate future readers to be confused or misguided by your comments. You know full well I am happy to point out the factual errors in your statements in private.

August 21, 2012

No JC, as my answer explained, and Tom's link adequately visually demonstrates,Tilt and Shift are not the same thing and one never turns into the other.

As I explained, and you are confirming, tilt becomes SWING, but not SHIFT.

Scott: "Tilt is a change in vertical angle and becomes swing when it is a horizontal movement"

JC: "a limited degree of swing effect which could be used with the camera in the 'normal' mode or if the tripod was suitable tilting the camera 90 degrees sideways"

It doesn't matter what gear you are using the naming convention stays the same, even for you. Your Thornton Pickards were not special, when you set them up if you didn't fully extent the front standard you had a degree of upward tilt, if you put the camera sideways that turned into swing, if you mounted it to the left you had left swing, if you mounted it to the right you had right swing, if you mounted the camera upside down you could have got the most useful for a plate camera, downward tilt. But that lack of fully extending the front standard never gave you shift, or rise and fall.

"Thanks Tom but I am aware of the potential movements."

Clearly not, that is why I stepped in.

August 21, 2012

Any competent camera repair shop will charge around $20-$40 to stick the mirror back in. Canon are a big corporation and the 5D is at least four years old and could be eight years old, they have liability constraints that are made at a corporate level. You don't have a paperweight, you have an ancient, by current tech replacement standards, camera that needs a cheap repair to bring it back to its former capabilities.

August 21, 2012

There is nothing wrong with the last three images, other than to illustrate that a T3i is pretty noisy at 1600iso. Are you using a tripod for the test chart?

August 20, 2012

Don't get me wrong, we have no intention of doing something not permitted, it was a genuine question because I had not seen the section of the EULA that Patrick quoted.

If its not doable then that is fine.

The line of thought started with the Lens Align II, it was suggested in a review that whilst it might not be a good investment for an individual photographer it would make sense for a club to own as it was a good piece of kit and worked as advertised, at a planning meeting for the club I thought a calibration system might be a good idea too as many members have the ubiquitous problem of not being happy with the prints they get from on-line printers.

Like I said, I have a ColorMunki and am happy with my printing, it was just a totally innocent inquiry for the benefit of other club members, none of whom are pros or could justify a $170 calibrator.

Thanks for your help, Scott.

August 20, 2012

JC,

That is so wrong I don't know where to start!

Shift and tilt are entirely unconnected and completely different movements. Shift has become a ubiquitous term meaning any parallel movement, including shifting, rising and falling. Tilt has come to describe the non parallel movement swing as well as tilt.

Tilt is a change in vertical angle and becomes swing when it is a horizontal movement. It never becomes shift.

Shift is a horizontal movement that becomes rise and fall when it is vertical.

August 20, 2012

Harry,

If the question was "what should I (Scott) take?" then yes, but that wasn't the question, the question was "what would you (Harry) take from it and what glaring omissions are there that you would take/won't travel without?"

As a little background, I have been to India before, I have traveled with all the listed gear and two film bodies and tripods and P&S's etc, weight is not a concern, neither is value, I'm not too worried about presence either, not because I am special, but I am comfortable in travel situations. But I was much more interested in talking about where other peoples ideas/shooting preferences are.

For instance, I was not surprised to see Nathan thinking of getting focal length, but for the way I shoot a 400mm is about 300mm longer than I would expect to use on this trip, but it did make me think what would I do if I took it and left something else. I know, as a very broad generalisation, India is much more restrictive with regards tripod use than my more normal SE Asia shooting environment, because of that the 17mm TS-E will be less useful to me than normal. Looking at my EXIF I have less than 20 70-200 with 2x TC images in over 40,000, and none of them are good!

It is also interesting to see people list a bag choice, it just reiterates how different we all are, I have bought as many camera bags as many of you and I really like the Retrospective 10, for me the size, functionality, etc, are the perfect balance but others have equally strong views about other bags. Bags definitely fall under the "won't travel without" part of the question.

Let me ask another question in the spirit of the thread.

If you could go to an interesting place (to you) for a month, what one body and one lens would you take?

My choice would be a 5D MkIII and a 24-70 f2.8.

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Posts posted by scott_ferris