nathanchristopher

Concerning the original question for the forum, I will just say this. We could back and forth on the old megapixil this vs that. However, when it really comes down to the point of pressing the shutter button, the question that we all have to ask is, "Can I get the shot". Will your shot be successful, sharp (if need be) and of good enough quality that whomever we show the image, will marvel @ our ability to capture that moment in time. No one who has owned a D70 is going to question the camera's ability to give a quality result, but I will say this. The moment that I picked up the 70-200 vr, and attached it to my d70, my confidence in my ability to get the shot( if needed for that focal range) has never been that same. Everything from countless weddings to WPT (poker tournaments) that lens has shown me just what means to have the confidence of a professional. Get the lens if you need it, you will not regret it.<div></div>

Hey guy's. I just picked a new external Monitor (a Gateway FPD2185W

TFT LCD) primarily for Photo editing. My laptop LCD was giving me

bad color casts. I don't now how to set up a color profile so that

what I see on the screen is what my lab will see as well. I don't

have the means to purchase a spyder color system. Is there any

program that I can use to ensure color consistency? I know this is a

broad Q, but any insight into this issue would be greatly

appreciated. Thanks! Nate.<div></div>

Thanks for the answear Paul, but I'm asking about the R2400 cartridges, that printer can only print 13in wide. Your panorama @ 19in is too large. Are you talking about the 4800, or the 2400? Thanks again!

Hello shooters. I have recently been researching Epson wide format

printers, and considering the price and the print sizes I need I

have settled on the Epson R2400. My major issue is the size of the

ink cartridge (only 12ml), compared to the much larger 4800, 7600

ink cartridges (110, 220ml). I want to know if anyone here uses the

R2400, and what they feel about their cartridge longevity. Are you

able to get a substantial amount of prints out before having to

replace cartridges? Any info regarding this would be great! Thanks!

Thanks for the answear and example lex! BUT...what I really need to know is how you made that sequence..you gave me an example of the type of shoot that I'm doing..I just don't know how to make the sequence presentable. Could you let me know how you just did that? What program did you use to make that line of images to show that kick-flip? I have PS CS just so you know.

Hello shooters. I am relatively new to the sports shooting

scene...so my question may have a super simple answear. I am

shooting with a D2x in HC mode (8fps) and a 70-200vr. The subject is

soccer players doing specific motions/actions (kicks, passes, traps)

all shot @ 8fps to be used for a specific medium. The question

is....what program should I use so that I can properly present the

photos in sequence to my client so that they can really get a good

idea of what it would be like to see the motion in real life. IE:

one photo after the other in quick succession. I have already done

the shoot, I just need to present it properly. An answers to this

post would be greatly appreciated, I need a solution to my dilemma

very shortly.

Hey People. I'm soon going to be entering into a shoot involving

alot of relative uknowns, ie, kids doing extreem sports well, but

not professionally. The work however may be used in a marketing

aspect. I do not have any model release forms of any kind. I, in

fact have never even laid eye's on one before. It may be a shot in

the dark but would any of you have a model release form that I could

use? I know it's a big question to ask, but I just had to. It would

be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

With regards to your last post, rich (the one above mine)...I completly agree, I'd even help in the beating if I saw it happening to another photographer. I'm sure that the bride and groom wouldn't have too much issue either...considering it is in fact THEIR memories that the thief could be stealing.

Hello,quick question to all the shooters out there shooting with 77

mm lens sizes, or rb/rz 67 lenses(also 77mm). I am considering

purchasing some grad filters for my lenses, largest being 77mm, I

don't want this posting to turn ito a debate on which filter system

is better. Due to pricing and quality, I have chose to go with Hi-

tech for the time being. My question is, has anybody had experiance

using the hitech 85 series or 100 series filters. Did you find the

85 system to be too small or was this never an issue? I'm having

second thoughts about the 100 system because I think the grad in

those filters would be too broad and not be suitable for the

landscape, horizons that I would be shooting. I have never seen

these filters myself so I may be wrong, hence I need some advise

from those of you who use them. Thanks alot.

Well, the day of my first pro shoot is done, and some of the results

are posted in my portfolio, under the folder "The Day". Thank you

again to all those that responded to my post, "a call to all pros",

your advise was, and will continue to be a great help in future

shoots. My question...How should I approch the album. Any tips on

putting it together?? I would like to do it myself. I have the

photoshop know-how; or should I use a second party??

Yikes man....I tried for a little while to think of an answear to your question, but I can't really deciede if its appropriate to respond or not. Try asking the question again, what do you want an answear to?? I don't think that the magnification factor of your dslr will make much difference.......uh....change the lens. It might give you a different perspective.

Well, I won't say that this is the first wedding that I will be

shooting, But I will say that it is the first "Public" wedding that I

am doing. It's on Mon Dec the 27th. I will be shooting with a Nikon

D70, and F80, for candids, and ceremony. And including my Mamiya RB67

system for some of the formals(family, group stuff), later on. Lenses

for the Nikons will be a Nikon 50\1.4, 17-35\2.8, and a 80-200\2.8. I

will have an assistant for the day, with another F80 50\1.8 in hand.

I guess I have the majority of everything clear in my head, but

before I make some final decisions for the day, I wanted to hear what

all of you pro's would suggest. This is a very open and broad

question. You are open to respond with any bit of advice that you may

have. Things you've learned over the years, things to watch for, and

any tips you don't mind giving. I know, there are tones of questions

that you may have for me, eg, film and such, but all of those details

I have already decieded on from experience. So there you go, fire

away>>>>anything you feel like saying, say it, it may be the advice

that saves the day! Thanks alot!

Thanks so much for you help James. As it stands I'm currently manufacturing a bracket that will provide me with a slider. All I'll need in the field to adjust it will be a alan key, (basicly converting a quick release plate into a quick release bracket with a slider for the qiuck release on my RB. Monday-Tues I'll be putting it to use near Whistler B.C. Can. I'll post the images. Thanks again, I love the endless learning potential of this medium. Always something new to discover. Cheers. Nathan.

Thanks again James. It finally clicked. Final question. I would assume that once you find the nodal point of the lens, the problem with the bellows focusing can be solved by having a bracket that can move the camera back and forth on the tripod to position the nodal point directly over the rotation on the tripod, no matter what focus, correct? Awkward in the field but worth it. Hmmm...I think I'm going to run to home depot for a bit. One more thing. With your Mamaiya lenses, have you ever found that you had to move the camera sideways?

Hey, guys I'm back again with another question. I (with my limited knowlage) would assume that the reason you run into problems concerning the nodal point of the lens is because as you rotate across, the lens now moves onto another level of focus in relation to the subject. Eg. A rock in the forground has the distance between itself and the front element of the lens, lengthened on either right or left extreams of the panarama if it is in the center of the shot. Am I getting the problem? If this is the case, then how can I run into the problem if the closest subject in the shot is 40-50 feet away and I'm shooting @ an app of f/22. Surely the DOF would cover the problem. I could see it being an issue with a subject that's right in front of you, But would it still be an issue for something like a mountainscape? The bellows in a shot of this kind would be focused on infinity anyway, (totally closed-for those of you reading that don't know.) Thanks again for your time guys. I just want to try and get the shot right the first time without wasting two 7$ rolls of film and learning the hard way.

Thanks so much for your replies James and Doug, I really apreciate it. As far as the tripod level, your right, trying to figure out levels only using the viewfinder sounds trying. My tripod set up is a monfrotto 055c legs with a bogen 3055 ballhead. A spirit level would be ideal. Home Depot is down the street. Doug, when you metioned finding a proper exposure that works for the whole shot what did you find was your best method for this. I would have thought that the best coarse of action would be to find the proper exposure of the part of the panoramic that you want to be most properly exposed and then keep that same shutter and appature for the rest of the shot. Any suggestions? Thanks again guys!

Hey Guys and Gals. Just thought I'd throw this question out there.

Has any one attempted a panaorama image useing a RB or RZ? I know

that the best method in doing this is to shoot in portrait format

and then allow 10-20% of overlaping of the frame form shoot to

shoot, but I wanted to hear other peoples thoughts before I

attempted it. What focal length lens did you use, (I have 50,90, and

180.) Also what did you find was the best method of combining the

negatives. Was a good print possable? Let me know, Thanks.

Hello fellow medium format shooters! I have a question concerning

filters. I have a mamiya rb67 system and am having a difficult time

finding filters that will be large enouph to provide proper coverage

and be moved around yet still cover the lens. My lenses are 77mm. I

want to use rectangular filters. Any suggestions as to what I should

look into? What are you guy's using? I want to use nd grads and I'm

not really into creating false colors on my photos.

Thanks for your time. Nathan.

Thanks for the quick answears, Andreas and Enrico, they help clear my mind. In regards to the issue of digital for my weddings. Yes I would love the flexability, but right now that's all I can do as I don't have an iffinite supply of dineros. This is the reason why I want to do the weddings...so I can get more equipment..funny circle it is. And in concern to the 6x9 for landscape, I have to focus right now on my fundamentals. I'm still young (23) and learning @ a ferocious pace. I need a camera that covers all the bases, learning to do what I need to do and yet capable of amazing results in what I love to do (landscape). The reason for my concern was sparked when I learned of the different shutter options and then checked to see what I had been doing with my nikon f80. Sure enough, I had been using 1/2 stop increments already so I suddenly became concerned that I wouldn't have the same shutter control. Any more input from anyone is greatly appreciated. I am here to learn.

Hey, guy's I'm about to make the plunge into Mamiya 6x7 shooting.

I've already made the decision to go for the RZ system as oppossed

to the RB. My concern however remains in which of the RZ to get. I

understand the differences between the two (RZ pro, RZ proII) and

therein lies my concern. I like the idea of the 1/3 shutter speeds

available on the proII, yet I don't like the price increase just for

the new features. It's hard to justify. Therefore I have two

questions. Firstly, is the increase in shutter flexability worth the

headache. And secondly, if I do get the RZ pro can I use the ae

prism proII finder. Will using the newer finder on the older RZ give

me the 1/3 shutter flexablity?. Thanks for your time.

By the way. I will be using the cam for weddings, portraits, and my

favorite....landscape. Thus proper precise exposure is really

important to me.

Wow! Brian, looks like you've hit a nerve with alot of people. I am a user who is new to the system. Already I see your point and agree with your propositions. However, I would like to propose that the rating system have a larger span. @ times I have truble decieding between the #'s because...well there's so much to consider. A picture is worth a thousand words isn't it?(sorry if someones already used that...:0). I would propose that we use a 1-10 or 1-12 system. Then when you get a 10 or a 12, it's for a reason...not simply because some rookie(like me) thought that it really caught his undeveloped eye. Thanks for listening Email:nathansawatzky@email.com (check out my folder..I coud use your opinion.) It's not that bad..I have got some 7's...:).