dale_dickerson2

I would not have gone to CPO with the lens, but direct to Rollei-USA. I think you paid a prime rate to both companies. For 1,400 it better be like new.

 

So you are the person who got the 500mm lens. How do you like it? My longest lens is the 250mm Sonnar.

A small pocket digital made to look like Rolleiflex f is a fun toy, but not a MF Rollei

I would say based on your comments

 

A Contax MF with AF is light as you will find, in 645.

 

The best 6x6 is a bit heavier, a Rolleiflex 6008AF.

 

Both have high grade optics.

If you look at the photograph you will see that the Rolleiflex FX does have a Planar. Planar is made by Rollei and is a Zeiss.

 

 

http://www.rollei-usa.com/images/Rolleiflex_28FX.jpg

 

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As for the question would I buy a FX and recommend the camera? Sure I recommend buying one. I love my 2.8C Xenotar, which has a lens that is sharp, the large number of blades on the iris do improve some photographs. I think it is a great lens. However I also know from using my 6008's Planar, that the HFT coating is worth having for the color and contrast improvements. A FX is worth the price just to add the HFT on the lens. The TTL flash metering, and a good light meter are just extra plus.

 

As for the camera build issues, I have never (and I mean never) seen a poorly built Rollei MF camera. The FX may not have the robust body of the F, but the FX is a professional grade camera, better built than most any modern camera.

 

By the way you can use the Mutar on the FX, the HFT would only improve the contrast and color as compared to using the Mutar on a single coated TLR.

I did not look at the upper edge of the leak. I was looking at the lower part which moved more into the frame each time plus it was getting longer.

 

please let us know what you find out.

It looks to me that the light band is growing longer as the frames go closer to the end of the roll of film.

 

My first source would be the film not being tightly on the spool. Try firming up the roll and appling the tape before removing the spool with the film from the film back's interchangeable holder. I would also suggest doing it in a shaded area.

 

Second source if this continues to be a problem is handle changing one roll in a changing bag or dark room. If the problem is still there the back has a light leak and not in a location I would expected given the design of the 600x film backs.

Renting and in NYC, I would recommend the Rolleiflex 6008AF with the 645 back. The back can be turned vertical or horizonal. You do not have to turn the camera. The current production 6008AF has had some fine tuning and works better in low light and low contrast then the first release of this camera.

 

You get flash sync at any speed. (Maybe a plus: You can used a 2.8/180mm lens in manual focus only, but get focus confirmation from the camers. With 800 Portra pushed a stop or 2, this combination will give wonderful low light images of a concert.)

 

My second choice is the Contax.

 

I always recommend Zeiss or Schneider lenses. In AF 645, these are my two choices.

Pavel,

 

The light meter in most all tlr are useable at best. The only really modern light metering system is in the GX and FX Rolleiflex. Not cheap cameras. I can understand people use to built in meters driving some higher prices. However $250USD price on the 124G leaves me speechless.

 

I am not knocking the camera. The Yashinon is a fine lens. The camera looks nice in all black. They are far better built then the current made heavy plastic 35mm cameras.

What is driving the high price for the 124G? The meter? Does some intro to MF push this model? It is a bit surprising to see how high ebay prices go for this camera. In one case it sold for more then I paid two years ago for a Rolleiflex 3.5e (Xenotar) that needed a cla!

Marc is more interesting on Zeiss optics. However he is a big fan of the tlr. He is not known for sharing poor information.

What is driving the high price for the 124G? The meter? Does some intro to MF push this model? It is a bit surprising to see how high ebay prices go for this camera. In one case it sold for more then I paid two years ago for a Rolleiflex 3.5e (Xenotar) that needed a cla!

Rolleicord were sold with either a CZJ Triotar lens or Schneider Xenar lens. Tessar was on Rolleiflex model. A Tessar on a Rolleicord is someone doing a retrofit. Given the quality of the Xenar, I am not sure why someone whould pay to have that done.

My only use of a Ricoh Diacord was in the 1970s and the example had an improper adjust lens. So I am not able to comment directly on use.

 

Personally, I would get a tlr with the Yashinon lens.

The 3-element Yashikor is a copy of the classic Cooke's Triple design. Rolleicord used a Carl Zeiss version call the Triotar. The lens design is a very nice portrait lens. Edge to edge sharpness is from f11-f22. In a poor example it is f16-f22. I like the design for portraits and like using f5.6 or f8. The image is sharp but creamy looking skin. It is not a lens for critical sharpness at the edges. By critical sharpness I mean you need it sharp for a use such as group photographs or buildings.

 

The 4 element Yashinon is a copy of the Carl Zeiss Tessar design. It has better correction and sharpness then the triplet design and 100 years ago earned the nick name of "eagle eye". You can get edge to edge sharpness at f8-f22 for critical sharpness at edges.

It has nice creamy skin at f5.6 in portraits. When compared to a Rolleicord with a Xenar (the Schneider copy of the Tessar design), you will find similar results at f3.5. At f4 through f5.6 Yashinon will have a sharper center, but much softer edges then the Xenar. The Xenar is not as sharp in the center f4-f5.6 but has more uniform sharpness across the image, center to edge. F8-f22 the Yashinon is very close to the Xenar with a good sharp image center and edge. In this range the differences are the lens coating and glass used in making the lens. This has an impact on the color and contrast. (This difference is matter of personal taste and some people do not care.) F32 has some loss of image quality do to refraction.

 

The Yashikor lens is able to produce some lovely images. The Yashinon is sharper and used at f11 or f16 truely lives up to the nick name of the lens design for it is an "eagle eye".

You want to send a 6008i to Rollei for the repairs. A 600x series camera needs to be sent to NJ. Private repair people do not work on these cameras. It has to do with equipment and parts.

The economy has not helped the prices. Mostly digital use up and MF interest down. However the cameras people are buying in place of the MF will not give the detail level of MF. Enjoy the good buys, I know I am...

I agree the 600x series Rolleiflex is prefered. However the second generation SLX does not have the troubles of the earlier version. It is nice user.

 

As for the battery, check the old postings for information on a charger that reconditions the battery.

 

If it were me, I would buy the SLX.

There are old expressions, "They grow them big in Texas." and "The best is from Texas"

 

A MF rangefinder is big compared to a 35mm Leica rf. If you believe that old Texas expressions, that big MF rf must be from Texas. If you believe Texas only produces the very best and that the very best rf is a Leica the camera must be a "Texas Leica".

 

However everyone know the very best rf is a Contax II and New York is where you find the biggest and best. So really it should be called a "New York Contax".

 

What do you expect? I live in NY. I am not going to say Texas! :-)

I agree about Reala. Since Peter was looking for 400 speed. I did not bring it up.

I find the Kodak Portra NC handles 60 sec exposures very well. I recommend this print film for 15-90 sec exposures. I have no problems at 5 sec with any of the 400 speed Kodak or Fuji films. After 10 sec you can get some color shiftswith some of the films.

I have looked at the coating on my 50mm, 80mm and 150mm Rollei lenses and those on a friends Hassy. Some have the same coloring some do not. Why the colors of the coating is a tech question outside my area of knowledge. I can say that tones and colors of my lenses and my freinds will produce on film are basicly the same. A high end mc Zeiss lens is very fine. That is true if made in the Zeiss factory or by Rollei to Zeiss standards.

With out a 18% gray card, I have done the following:

 

 

I use a clean large white matt surface.

 

I meter using a properly calibrated lightmeter that suface.

 

I note the reading.

 

Next I read the same surface using the meter I want to calibrate.

 

I adjust the meter to match the first meter's reading.

 

I take new readings with both meters to check for any problems.

 

If your first lightmeter is currect the second meter will now be reading the same.

Welcome to the wonderful Rolleiflex 600x series!

 

The 50mm f/2.8 Schneider Super-Angulon PQS is not AF, but will give full use of all other features on the camera. The AF will act as a focus confirmation with the lens.

 

I use the 4/50mm Distagon. However, the 2.8 Super Angulon is one great lens. If it gives the angle of coverage you need, you will find no better lens made for any MF.

 

I am a wedding and events photographer. Most times the 50mm is as wide as I need.

 

For a list of all lenses and which are AF, visit www.Rollei-usa.com

 

A SCA 356 Adapter with a Metz flash will cover your fill flash needs in daylight. This give you full ttl.

 

If you do not mind using the flash in only automatic or manual settings. The new T4 Qflash will offer a wider set of lighting options.

I use the HFT 50mm, 150mm and 250mm lenses on my 6008 SRC 1000. I can not use all the features of the 6008, but the lenses still work. The results from the optics look as good as what I see with the new lenses. The first lens I rebuy in the newer series is the 50mm. The HFT 50mm does not a have FLE.

 

Your 120mm should work well, but not in all automatic setting.

The new Kiev TTL Spot meter is better than the older models. I have used the older models and the new one. The new one is accurate and should work for slides. It is not as accurate the meter in my Rolleiflex 6008, but the new Kiev meter will do the job.

 

I think you will need to get the meter adjusted for your camera. The meter is calibrated for the screen in the Kiev 88CM. The calibrating instructions on found at http://www.kievaholic.com/meters.html

 

If you need the name of a good repairman to do the calibration, I would be happen to send you his email address.