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dale_dickerson2

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Posts posted by dale_dickerson2

  1. With the limit of file size to print size being 5-7 meg for a good 8x10 print, MF advange disappears. In optic prints the rich detail of MF or LF negatives is present clearly in a 8x10 print. Hold the optical print closer then 12 inch and see more detail. In digital, the dpi limits on the 8x10 print mean most all the detail is lost. At 12 inch the digital print looks great. At 8 inch, the optic print is revealing more detail, but the digital print has long since given up all its information. So why use a 22 meg back with more detail, if the print will not show it? If you are not getting the advantage of MF or LF detail in the print why use it? The 22 meg over kill for a 5-7 meg print is justified for heavy croping, but not for a straight print and here is the MF problem. I see no move to increase the dpi of the prints and without that digital MF is overkill for many uses.

     

    For the record, personally, the digital saves on retouching in portraits, but is not detail rich like an optic print. I prefer an optical prints.

  2. If you shoot mostly at f3.5 through f5.6, the Rolleiflex Xenotar or Planar is clearly worth it. If you shoot mostly f8-f16 and do not make large prints nor do heavy croping, the difference for most uses would not be a large improvement. You are comparing a Tessar design lens with a Planar design lens. Planar design is sharp edge to edge at any f stop and has a high resolution. Qualitys that may be a plus or minus depending on your tastes and useage.

     

    The Rolleiflex 3.5 Xenotar or Planar is a very sharp lens with very high resolution. I use a 3.5E with Xenotar lens and compares well with the newer 80mm on the 6008 Rolleiflex. You can find a 3.5E for under $450 depending on condition. A Rollei tlr is a very fine tool. I alway recommend them.

  3. My only problem with eletronics in my 6008 was the 16 year old 80mm lens's iris motor failed. Given the age and the use level, it is more a normal repair and not a design issue.

     

    I am find the camera very reliable, easy to use, well designed. What is the eletronics issue on the Rollei camera that keeps coming up but not body will give the details on? I never hear the details of a problem from users/owners of the Rolleiflex 600x cameras. I do not experience it. The Rolleiflex is a wonderful tool and well worth the investment.

  4. The 180mm is 4 elements in three grouping which is the means it is a design based on the Tessar. The lens design is a classic, but the edges will very sharp until f8 or f11. For a portrait the lens is great, at f5.6 you have a nice sharp center with the edges softening.

     

    If you want sharp edges at wide open, you need a lens with a bit more correction. A copy of the Sonnar design would be more what you are wanting.

  5. In mf you want a 150mm lens for portraits that will be close to the look of the 85mm in 35mm.

     

    The bokeh of the 124G is close to that of the Tessar lens on the Rollei tlr. It is very lovely. The problem with using a close up filter on the 80 or 75mm lens in MF is you will distort the face's features. You want to be five to eight feet from the subject for a natural looking face.

     

    TLR options for a portrait lens are the Tele Rolleiflex with a Rolleinar, a Rollei tlr with Mutar or a Mamiya with the telephoto lens. Best Quality is the first, the mutar is ok but not that practical, plus both are expensive, the Mamiya is the cheaper choice.

     

    I purchased a Rolleiflex 6008 (SLR)and a 150mm HFT version Sonnar. I could not justify the high cost of the Tele Rollei.

  6. >I got the 50/4 Flektogon Zeiss seems to be one of the best around >based on my research. However it's single coated so I don't know how >that's going to affect performance.

     

    A shade or a hood is recommended for the lens. I have the MC version. It compares well with the 50mm/4 HFT Distagon (version without fle)for my Rolleiflex. The main difference is the Distagon is softer as 5 feet and the Flektogon edges are softer at f4-f8. The Flektogon is a nice wide angle and should work very well for landscape. The main difference between the MC and the single coat will be in the color. The MC verion will give color that a bit more vivid. That is not really a plus or minus. It depends on what you are looking for.

     

    Enjoy the Flektogon, it is a fine lens.

     

     

    > Here's the film I'm interested in: >http://www.adorama.com/FJRVP120PPU.html?searchinfo=velvia%20120&item_no=1

     

     

    that film will work very well in your camera.

     

    enjoy!

  7. You can use 120 or 220 film in your Pentacon 6tl. The 6x6 size will permit 12 images on 120 film and 24 images on 220 film. It is easier to learn the camera first using 120 film.

     

    Slide film is sometimes call Reversal film. Color Reversal film is color slide film.

     

    If you want color slides, yes you can order the Velvia in 120. Fuji also has color print films that are fine grain and work well for landscape: Reala for natural color, Superia for a more vivid color. Kodak Portra 160 is good for fine grain prints, NC is natural color, VC is vivid color.

  8. >Questions:

     

    >I've seen the 75 & 80mm's online...did they make a wide angle?...if >so, (for ease of search) what size is it/are they?

     

    They made a 50mm with Zeiss optic. It is high priced due to collectors. They currently make a 50mm with Schneider optic. It is high priced because it is new, it is Rollei and Schneider. Great lenses and cameras.

     

    >Is there a model of this camera or was there a period of production >to stay away from?

     

    I recommend any post WWII camera. The optic will be coated. It is not a question of stay away from a Rollei tlr, the question is which model do you prefer?

     

    >Also...I've seen on ebay that there were also Rollie 35mm's...with >zeiss lenses?...how do these lenses fair?

     

    I have never seen a Rollei optic that was not a high end performer, in MF or 35mm. (Yes, Even the none Zeiss 35mm lenses are, but I prefer the Zeiss or Scheider lenses.)

  9. Your camera need repair before the wedding. These are the best in the USA. I have used all three over the years. Call them, id yourself as a professional photographer and need fast turn around. They will help you out. Please let me know how you make out.

     

    Marflex Service

    P.O.Box 633

    16 Chapin Rd. Unit 906

    Pine Brook, NJ, 07058

    (973) 808-9626 voice

    (973) 808-1706 fax

    email marflex@aol.com

     

     

    Koh's Camera

    Phone: 516/826-9566

    Fax: 516/826-6257

     

     

    Harry Fleenor, Oceanside Camera Repair

    909 Aviation Blvd. # 4

    Manhattan Beach, CA 90266, Tel. 310-374-6505 harry@rolleirepairs.com www.rolleirepairs.com

  10. I assume you are comparing a 503CM with 3.5/60mm to a Rolleiflex 600x series camera with 2.8/80mm Planar. The 3.5/60mm is going to be darker on any screen. The new Rollei gridded screen on the 600x is going to brighter then the Acute-matte screen.

     

    I know you want Zeiss, but why not use Zeiss and Schneider lenses? The Rolleiflex is my first choice in MF for slr, tlr, 6x6 or 645.

  11. Reposted to get the titles on new lines and not bunched up.

     

    There are a number of helpful books. Here are four wedding book and three portrait titles:

     

    Wedding Photography: Getting perfect results every time by Ian Gee (UK photographer different in technique from how Box or Ferro or Seefer work.)

     

    Wedding Photography: Creative Techniques for lighting and Posing 2nd edition by Rick Ferro (All MF examples and directed in comments)

     

    Professional Secrets of Wedding Photography by Douglas Allen Box (His set up drawings list the focal length of the lens used on his Hassy for the image.)

     

    The Art of Bridal Portrait Photography by Marty Seefer (As much about portraits as weddings, walks you through the process.)

     

     

    Professional Secrets of Natural Light Portrait Photography by Douglas Allen Box (All MF examples and directed in comments)

     

    Portrait Photographer's Handbook by Bill Hurter (NOT just MF, but most of the examples are MF and list focal length etc used.)

     

    Master Posing Guide for Portait Photographers: A Complete Guide to Posing Singles Couples and Groups By J.D. Wacker (NOT MF, but covers the posting.)

  12. There are a number of helpful books. Here are four wedding book and three portrait titles:

     

    Wedding Photography: Getting perfect results every time by Ian Gee (UK photographer different in technique from how Box or Ferro or Seefer work.)

    Wedding Photography: Creative Techniques for lighting and Posing 2nd edition by Rick Ferro (All MF examples and directed in comments)

    Professional Secrets of Wedding Photography by Douglas Allen Box (His set up drawings list the focal length of the lens used on his Hassy for the image.)

    The Art of Bridal Portrait Photography by Marty Seefer (As much about portraits as weddings, walks you through the process.)

     

     

    Professional Secrets of Natural Light Portrait Photography by Douglas Allen Box (All MF examples and directed in comments)

    Portrait Photographer's Handbook by Bill Hurter (NOT just MF, but most of the examples are MF and list focal length etc used.)

    Master Posing Guide for Portait Photographers: A Complete Guide to Posing Singles Couples and Groups By J.D. Wacker (NOT MF, but covers the posting.)

  13. I vote Rollei, but I am a mf Rollei user. My only advice is get a battery charger that recondition the battery. (You can find information in the archives.)

     

    As for digital weddings or 35mm weddings, ya can do it. However if you want to sell larger wall prints or do 14x14 coffee table albums, MF is still the way to go. A 14x28 two page spead viewed at 12 to 15 inchs needs more than waht a 35mm or a 8 meg digital can give to look good and have nice detail.

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