gilbert_c1

I am not a canon user but you can mount all nikkor AIS lens on all Canon DSLR via an adaptor and it can do stop-down metering. By the way there's also CY-Mount Zeiss lens adaptor available for Canon EOS cameras, same price as AIS adaptor.

Guys, the webmaster of the website you are referring to he's a Canon fan and I think he's trying not to piss off Nikon users so he's always very "kind" when writting about Nikon's.

I'll say at f1.4 the 35/1.4 isnt saturate but it's pretty sharp in the center. At f1.4 you might not be happy with the color saturation on slide film, but if using print film with a nice lab the color is not too bad. Focus accurancy is very very critical if shooting at f1.4, so I do not usually get such sharpness at f1.4 like this one. Got excellent focus luckily sometimes, LOL.<div></div>

AF and manual versions are different in that AF is Internal-Focus while Manual is not. People say that AF/AFD is a little bit sharper at f2.8 but Manual version has better Out-Of-Focus look.

I once heard from a photo journalist about how he reduces contrast

when shooting near noon under strong sunlight. He cover his lens with

a white acrylic plate, set exposure to 1/125 f8 and shoot the whole

roll, then he wind the film back to the first frame to start real

shooting.

 

 

For me the problem of this procedure is how to ensure perfect

alignment between the first white-plate exposure and the second real

exposure. If you finish exposing a whole roll and then wind the film

back to the first frame, can you ensure perfect frame alighment? Any

tricks?

I ever used a hand-held LEE ND filter on my 24/2.8. It doesnt have a holder and it's not a screw-in filter so i gotta hold it in front of the lens with my hand. To prevent shaking the camera I hold the filter about 1 to 2 centi-meter away from the lens, and when I saw the developed film I saw lights reflected from the camera body onto the film.

 

 

Just to tell you it's not a good idea to use a hand-held filter. LOL

This is how you will use your 100mm nikon series E lens on a D100 body:

 

 

Mount it on D100 in exactly the same way you mount the lens on any other nikon film body.

 

 

Set aperture by rotating the aperture ring of the lens, and set shutter speed by rotating the dedicated-shutter-wheel of D100.

 

 

It wont provide any kind of metering reading but it will take pictures just like any manual film cameras without metering capability.

You are very right! Jamie!

 

I think the best way to design the D70 is to make it having two color-profile, one "pleasing-color" and the other "accurate-color", and make "pleasing-color" factory default and "accurate-color" menu-selectable. Most users use cameras in its default setting so a "pleasing-color" default will make people happy and praise for it. Revewers and advenced-users take color-accurancy into account so "accurate-color" can be made a selectable-option in menu. If any reviewer doesnt know to select "accurate-color" from menu to evaluate its color accurancy then this reviewer should hang himself. I think this arrangement can make people happy and also good for camera review.

 

It's an art to decide what to be default-setting. If D70 has both "pleasing-color" and "accurate-color" it's smarter to make "pleasing-color" default, isnt it?

"You hinted that you'd really rather have the 35 f/1.4 if it wasn't so expensive."

 

 

Nikkor 35/1.4 is the cheapest 35/1.4 among all brands and that makes it a real bargain. My sole reason to keep this lens over the 35/2D is for easier focus and better background look, though it has noticeable barrel distortion. The nikkor 35/1.4 is really an interesting lens. It has very stong spherical-over-correction at f1.4, which makes it much easier for fast-focus but also severely sacrifice the background look. What's interesting is that when stoping down to close to f2.8 the background look doesnt seem to suffer from the ugly spherical-over-correction. So it makes a good snap lens @ around f2.8.

(Note that 28/2 has superior background look than 35/1.4)

 

 

If ambient light allows me to shoot f4 1/60 I'll like to use 50mm f1.8 for its superb fine quality (though ghosting easily). Why f4 it's because people usually talk and laugh and nod so I cant cover that movement within 50mm f2.8 DOF and by the way this lens isnt easy to focus. My 50mm snap shot at f2.8 are usually blurry (out of DOF), LOL. But when f4 is useable no lens can beat the 50/1.8.

 

 

My 3rd most used lens is 105/2.5. It's so famous so there's no need to talk about this lens.

 

 

I'll put it this way: for best photo quality I'll choose 50/1.8, for family-life snaps I opt for 35/1.4, and the best "gear-fun" is no doubt the 105/2.5.

"Does anyone else consider a $500 markup from a N75 grade to (slightly better) N80 grade camera a little steep?"

 

Not really.

Maybe Nikon will make D70 lacking single-AF-area mode, super long shutter-lag, turtle memory writting speed, and with battery-life of about 200 shots per recharging. In this case D100 will hold its value well and the $500 difference wont be considered steep.

 

Just kidding, lol.

IMO if the D70 has the same imaging core as D100 then nikon is very stupid market-wise. D100's imaging goes the color-accurancy route and I think D70's imaging should choose "pleasing-color" approach. Most digital camera users will not make any adjustment to image and just print it without any PS works, for example image-editing software is only a tool to rotate photos for my bro, lol. If nikon can forget about color-accurancy and just make D70 a camera that produces pleasing color for out-of-camera photo-printing, it will have better market response. If I were the D70 designer I wont make it anything like the D100, I'd make its imaging more colorful, dense color, slightly warm color, and heavier noise-reduction. In short, make it a camera suitable for people like my bro, who's too lazy to adjust photos in photoshop.

Hello Amanda,

I'll suggest you to get some lens that does the wonder which your kodak digital P&S can not do. Get the AF85mm f1.8D. It's good for your baby/family shots and will give you photos that's a lot different than your kodak.

For travelling I think your little kodak digital can serve you better than a bigger heavier SLR so you can use the kodak for traveling. It's not fun lugging heavy gears around when traveling.

If you snap your family life photo often I'll recommend the AIS 35/1.4. If you compare its price with nikkor 28/2 or other brand's 35/1.4 you will find nikkor 35/1.4 a real bargain. It's my most used family lens. If it's now out of your budget range maybe you can sell your sb28 to help you buy the 35/1.4. FM2N doesnt has TTL so leave your flash shots to your canon af camera.

Hello Walter,

 

Maybe you can start learning about Taiwan here in the forum bellow:

 

http://forumosa.com/3/viewforum.php?f=55

 

You can also join Taiwan Yahoo chat room as below if you are a Yahoo user:

 

http://tw.ezchat.yahoo.com/search/ezchat?p=english

 

Most English-Speaking Taiwan girls are very willing to make friend with foreigners so I am sure you will have a good time either talking on-line or in a Taipei Pub.

 

You can forget about buying any camera gears in Taiwan. Camera and lens are a lot more expensive in Taiwan than in USA, expecially digital cameras. If you buy couples of Canon G5 in USA and bring to Taiwan to sale in Taiwan maybe you can earn your airline tickets back, LOL.

 

Cheers Gilbert

There's one thing called photoshop. :p

By the way an optically better viewfinder wont do any help for the resulting image captured. But evertime I see through my F801 Beattie screen I am very pleased and say to myself "It's so clear oh I have a damn good lens" and that keeps me happy while shooting. LOL

F801s has spot meter while F801 doesnt. In my eyes the main difference between F801(s) and F75 are flash sync speed and viewfinder optical quality. F801(s) has 1/250 flash sync speed and clearer sharper viewfinder whose focus screen is exchangeable. Maybe you can play his F801(s) for a while and look through the vewfinder to see it for yourself. I still keep a F801 bought in 1988, which I use a Beattie split-image focus screen in. The sole reason I keep this body is for its nice viewfinder optical quality.

 

I cant say which one is better but I suggest you to see through F75 and F801(s) viewfinder with a same lens mounted on, then maybe you know what I mean.

I assume you shoot color negtive films. If so, the lab you use to develop the film making prints is more important than the lens you use. Even 1-hour labs give pretty different results from lab to lab. You may want to find one or two good labs before you jump into the lens-collector club. Good luck.

OK I took the documentary approach using T400CN no flash since we can not take our little baby out the main nursery and there's an air-sealed two-layed glass blocking me out. Guess what, when I firstly saw the glass room the movie Jurassic Park flashed into my mind. The hospital made the main nursery like a showcase laboratory, LOL. Here's one of my snapshots. Thanks for all the inputs.<div></div>

Hi Anis. My suggestion will be setting the camera to "Single Area AF" and use only the center AF sensor if using a slow lens. The other 4 sensors are not very responsive while the center one is pretty good even in dim light if you have a contrasty subject to focus. By the way it's not a suprise to get a soft image when handheld shooting with a shutter speed slower than 1/125sec. AF is the way to go.

I sometimes use a F80, sometimes a F801(N8008) with a Beattie split-screen, sometimes a FM2 with standard K2 screen. I think if mounting the camera on a solid tripod and manual focusing with the help of DG-2 viewfinder magnifier fine tunning for maybe 1 to 2 minutes, manual focus has an edge, otherwise if handheld shooting AF body can usually do a significantly better job in focusing than manual.

Thank you guys for your precious opinions! I just made a call and confirmed that flash is not allowed in the hospital and even worse, the baby is seperated in a protected glass-room. And family is only allowed to watch the baby outside the glass, so I will be watching my nephew with a glass in between. So things are not going like what I used to see in a movie, happy mother holding her newly-born baby, instead baby has to be in the isolated glass room. :p

 

I'll shoot ISO800 film tomorrow and bring my bro his old digital camera, which has good image quality only at ISO100. I believe my bro will greatly improve his low-light handheld shooting technique in the upcoming week, LOL.

Hi there. My bro just had a baby today and I am about to go to the

hospital tomorrow to take some shots of the little baby who made me

an uncle. :) I am thinking about shooting Reala 100 negtive for

better large prints, of course with a flash, or maybe I'll shoot ISO

800 without flash. Do you guys think flash is harmful for a newly-

born baby's eyes or not?

Thanks for your input.

I dont have N75 but I recommend you to try this: set AF area mode to single-area and use only the center AF spot. I believe in this way it will AF a lot better then your manual focus. Try it, Alan. ;)

Talking about perspective, the relationship between near scene and distance scene in a photo, it is still a 105mm lens not a 155mm lens. But talking about angle of view, the coverage, it's like a 155mm. So I'll say it's a 105mm with smaller coverarage.