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micah_henry

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Posts posted by micah_henry

  1. I know it’s been years, but I’m wondering what your solution was for a tripod, Jim Gardner and Tony Lovell? And did you have any difficulty estimating aperture size, since the camera is not being used at its large magnifications, as intended?

     

    I was given a process camera a few years back, but it will need a lot of things to make it usable for pictorial use: a tripod/wheeled base/cart, for starters, and also a film changing tent specifically made for its vacuum back to allow film loading in the field (I think I could make this by repurposing a couple big film changing dark bags). It has an electronic shutter meant for controlling four big halogen floodlights with a blue filtered sensor mounted on the front standard. It used light unit increments instead of being a seconds/minutes timer. The camera has a ground glass focusing screen which became detached from the unit many years ago, but is otherwise intact.

     

    I’m thinking of using this camera with either the Anitec “line” film which was given to me with the camera (which I will develop so as to tame its high contrast) or with x-ray film. I had cut down a big sheet of the Anitec film to 4x5” under a red safe light, and tested it in an old Speed Graphic, about EI 3-6. Turned out decently for a first try.

     

    Jim & Tony: any thoughts?

     

    Thanks,

    Micah in NC

  2. <p>Thanks, all who contributed to this thread. I saw that seller on eBay still has a Minox holder, as well as holders for Kodak disc, 110, 126, 127, and other formats. I just bought the one for 110 film for my Epson V550 scanner. I have not yet received it but hope to be scanning with it soon!</p>
  3. <p>Julian,<br>

    Thanks!<br>

    Thanks for sharing these images with us.<br>

    This reminds me that I need to pop a Minopan 100 cartridge into my "new" Minox B. It will be test roll for the "new-to-me" B that I intend as a present for my mother, to start her in Minoxing!<br>

    --Micah in NC</p>

  4. SG,

     

    I have never obtained results this stunning from my Graphics (yet). But now I'm definitely inspired! I love my Graphics--they slow you down and make you really think before you pull that dark slide and flick the shutter.

     

    Did you have trouble finding a working Graphic RF light (Kalart Focuspot) attachment? I have a couple with the side RF but they are missing the bulb attachment.

     

    Also, what scanner do you favor? (I suppose that's how you obtain the prints from tranparencies since you said, "The last image I have in 16x24 from a color transperency and the forground just glows.")

     

    --Micah in NC

  5. Ben,

     

    Have you used the ECX before? Is the shutter firing OK? Sometimes the ECX (or EC, too) have problems with their

    shutters.

     

    If shutter is firing, is the camera battery OK? Use battery check switch. The manual says, "To check whether the

    batteries have been correctly inserted and are in operating order, hold the camera at both ends and pull fully apart.

    Slide the function mode switch to the left, to the battery symbol. Hold the function mode switch in this position and

    look through the viewfinder. The batteries are correctly inserted and in operating order when a red LED lights up in

    the top of the viewfinder. The illumination of the red LED can sometimes fail due to soiled battery contacts. In this

    case, clean the contacts with a clean, dry and non-fluff cloth."

     

    If your shutter and battery are OK...perhaps it's a case of dodgy flash contacts. Not all corrosion is visible and just a

    little can keep a flash from firing. I would dismount the flash, rub the three metal contacts on a dry, rough cloth (a

    thick shirt fabric or similar, NOT sandpaper or anything abrasive).

     

    Put the flash back on the camera, making sure to fit the 3 metal contacts in FIRST, then rotate the flash back so the

    plastic tabs travel toward the rear of the camera and click to firmly seat the unit on the camera body.

    Now, "trombone" the camera (push/pull), and try to press the shutter. I hope that works.

     

    --Micah in NC

  6. Marshall,

     

    That's wonderful news! I have shot a few rolls of 8x11 E-6 chromes (mount myself in NOS slip-in cardboard mounts I

    bought online). I sent those off to Colorado Camera for E-6 processing. Now, I'll have to slit down a roll of K-64 for

    Minox! (I have shot K-64 regularly in my old stereo camera and sent to Dwayne's, specifying not to cut or mount the

    film. They do excellent work, in my opinion.)

     

    Thanks,

    Micah in NC

  7. Andy,

     

    Nice camera and photos! That's not a model I'm familiar with, until now. My first Yashica was a Minister-D 35mm

    with a jittery meter when it was already 30 years old and I was in college. Nice sharp f/2.8 lens, though. Yielded

    wonderful images on Plus-X. I need to use mine again--glad you reminded me of it!

     

    And I went on a mini-Yashica RF spree and bought a GSN and a GTN, though my GTN has a foggy VF/RF. And

    they're heavier than the Minister-D, if memory serves me correctly.

     

    Gee, wish I was out shooting and not stuck behind a computer!

     

    --Micah in NC

  8. Chris,

     

    Looks like Brian S. will be putting you in touch with a replacement. Hurray! This is a great community.

     

    I use an Argus every now and then and love my C-44, so much so that I recommended it to my mother, who is 58, and she snapped up one at a local camera swap meet.

     

    Long live Argus! Long live film!

     

    --Micah in NC

  9. Harry,

     

    With the Minox A and B, YOU are the exposure control. I mean both cameras have manual exposure only. The

    exposure is controlled the user manually selecting a shutter speed. (As you probably know, the aperture is a

    constant f/3.5.)

     

    The A (a.k.a. III and IIIS) does not have a built-in meter. The Minox B has a built-in, batteryless selenium meter.

     

    With the B, you simply take a light reading with the meter (press meter button, point camera at subject, release

    button to lock meter reading), then set the shutter speed. The shutter dial turns a pointer at the exposure meter,

    which you turn to meet or match the light meter needle (a.k.a “match-needle” exposure system). It's that easy. Gee,

    I sound like a Minox advertisement, don't I?

     

    The C does make picturetaking faster because you don't have to fuss with exposure, but you can't take pictures

    when the battery fails due to the electronically-powered shutter. That's why Mike S. prefers the mechanical shutters

    of the A and B series.

     

    --Micah in NC

  10. Harry,

     

    Um, if I understand you correctly, you mean the shutter button doesn't light up? The button itself doesn't light up ever, the little white (or red) light next to it does when you rotate the lever between the shutter speed dial and film speed dial ONLY when the shutter dial is set to "A" and your shutter speed would be less than 1/30 second.

     

    Does that help?

     

    --Micah in NC

  11. Folks,

     

    Count me in! I have a Minox B in my pocket nearly daily (loaded with Minopan 100 currently). However, I also have a

    IIIS, a C, an ECX, and Minox Historical Society edition EC kit.

     

    I added an Atoron (original model) to my lineup, too, along with larger-than Minox subminis, which I won't go into here.

     

    Like Julian, I need to get busy processing film. I have over a dozen cartridges yet to develop!

     

    Keep 'em shooting!

     

    --Micah in NC

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