arkady ten

<p>Hello. In the survey, the majority of people seems prefer buying software rather then paying per calibration. Could you elaborate why you make particular choice?</p>

<p>Thanks, Arkady</p>

<p><br />There was several inquiries regarding different questions in the survey.<br>

Some of the survey questions target advanced users and if you are not sure what they mean don't worry it just mark N/A or leave it unanswered. For example "non-ICC viewing conditions" is one of them.<br>

Several people suggested separating the survey on "advanced" and "regular" version and we were contemplating about that but for number of reasons we decided to keep one version.<br>

Thank you for your help, Arkady<br /> </p>

<p>Fellow Photographers, <br /><br />We are in process of creating a monitor calibration/profiling software for those who are a bit more demanding. And we want to hear your opinion on features you'd like to have and problems you would like to be resolved. We will be extremely thankful if you participate in the survey. The survey takes only 3-7minutes. We don't share any personal information. No spam or sales. Only those who sign up for beta-test program will receive an e-mail notification once the program is in place.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.colorkeeper.com/?page_id=100" target="_blank">Survey</a><br /><br />If you have any questions or suggestion please feel free to pm me or post here.<br /><br />Hopefully it won't be considered as an ad. We don't have specification or name of the product on the site and don't sell or advertise anything there. <br /><br />Thanks, Arkady.</p>

<p>Matthew,<br>

PS and LR is different!? Hm? You may try a verification step. Take an image (tiff or jpg) that is known to be in sRGB with sRGB profile attached. Bring them in PS (I assume that preserve embedded profile policy is set) and LR, compare. If they are still different and you can't find anything suspicious in PS color settings try run profiling/calibration again. Remember the name of the profile. After profiling verify in screen properties that the profiled installed in the system is actually correct one. See the sRGB image again.</p>

<p>Did you check color settings in PS?</p>

<p>It might be also<br>

a. double colormanagement<br>

b. gamut mapping <br>

issues. </p>

<p>Make sure that you use only printer driver CM or only PS CM (preferrable) and not both. <br>

Check in PS if your pink is an in-gamut color. </p>

<p>Too dark prints commonly can be attributed to the wrong viewing condition. Per ICC spec the prints should be viewed under 500 lux while in typical situation photographers view prints under much lower illumination. Prints look much darker and contrastier under dimmer light. </p>

Ilkka,

Thank you. Using pliers I was able to unscrew the plate.

 

Arkady

Hello,

 

I have a Linhof ballhead. I believe the plate is dual thread meaining that one

side is 1/4 and another 3/8. Does anybody know how I to unscrew the plate.

 

I tried to lock the ball and unscrew the plate but the ball just rotated.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks, Arkady

Density for slides and for film somewhat different.

 

DMax for a scanner is probably measured as taking no film as a reference, which is probably close to what you see in slide film. Slides have pretty transparent base.

 

For negatives you have a darker base plus orange mask. Thus, unexposed negative film sits in the middle of the scanner dynamic range. For example, unexposed film density might be equal 1. Thus leaving you only 2.4 in usable range. I don't know the actual numbers and use arbitrary to demonstrate idea.

The manual states that you have to have 3 frames (according to countere) before and three frames after. While I found it is never exact and depend on your camera and you style of loading the camera. I usually use 2 frames before and two after and rewide the film once I shoot 35 frames (number of frames I need).

 

Arkady

Unfortunatly I've never owned Oly. So I could not give a side by side comparison. But I owned total 5 QL 17s and two of them still in my bag.

 

It is an excellent and quite sophisticated camera. I would put several points why I like this camera:

1. very FAST lens and quite sharp lens (I don't thing you can get anything better for the same amount of money)

2. paralax correction

3. Devoted coupled flash (you don't need to adjust anything while shootig with devoted flash(Canolite D). Exposure is set automatically according to distance you set. Flash set high so no red eye).

 

FYI, this camera also has shutter priority mode and quite accurate CdS exposure metering (with LR44 batteries).

 

I had a couple of Yashica range finders also but I prefer QL17.

 

I guess hype around QL17 has reasons:) and I wouldn't agree that the QL17 is overpriced instead I would say that other RF cameras a bit underpriced :).

 

Regards