capocheny

Rainer,

You're going to buy a digital LF camera system and you've no practical experience with a

view camera before????

Must be nice to have more money than you know what to do with!!!

:) Just kidding... I'm just bloody jealous! :)

You've gotten a LOT of good advice above I can't contribute anymore to what has already

been said in response to your questions. But, I will contribute advice regarding buying the

digital back, which costs a LOT of money these days!

The most prudent thing you can do is to follow Anupam's advice and buy a monorail to

learn with. Second thing you should do is to do some reading! There's lots of great books

out there such as Jim Stone's book; Steve Simmon's book, or Jack Dykinga's. These are all

really, really good books to start out with. When you get through these... then go for the

Stroebel book.

When you've become reasonably profficient with using a LF camera... then, at that point,

I'd consider buying a digital back. It's like buying a Ferrari when you first start learning to

drive!

Good luck.

Cheers

Luciano,

Interesting news... I've not heard any rumblings though.

Michael,

Man, what are you doing to your light meters? 3 of them and they've all had problems?

That's amazing!

But, I'm sorry to hear of your problems with these meters. They're normally quite reliable.

I use a Minolta III and V and have never had any problems with them. The III is a work

horse and has been in constant use for years and years. No problems whatsoever!

Perhaps, the Minolta Gods up there have it in for you!

Just kidding! :)

But, just as a back-up (after the Minolta announcement that they were not making meters

any longer,) I picked up a Sekonic 608 and will be buying the newest version (778?) when

it's readily available.

Cheers

Charles,

I agree with Sheldon... you should take the camera back to the rental place and have them

shoot a few test shots with some Polaroid Type 55.

If, and when, it's agreed that it is, indeed, the ground glass being out of registration, they

should he happy to let you take the camera out again (after the gg has been shimmed) free

of charge. They should also reimburse you for the cost of your film and processing.

Good luck

Cheers

Jim,

I've also used both types of backs and would recommend the one where you remove the

groundglass and replace it with the back. The one I use is a Linhof Super Rollex in 6x9 and

6x7 format (lever rather than knob versions). They're built extremely well and if you look

after them... you'll have no problems with film flatness or the mechanics of their

operation.

Btw, they sell for next to nothing on that auction site! :)

I also used the other variety for a very short while... one was made by Calumet and the

other was made by Cambo. However, I'm sure they came out of the same factory. Although

I had no issues with film flatness, I did have issues with film overlap. It's very frustrating to

do a shoot and have the films come back unusable.

Thankfully, this problem of film overlap has never been an issue with the Linhof backs!

Cheers

Thor,

I think you need to do some research before you embark on this venture.

Do a search for which books are good to read.

Decide on how much money you have to spend on a camera and lenses and go from there.

All the major manufacturers of both cameras (Sinar, Linhof, Arca Swiss, Horseman, Toyo,

etc) and lenses (Schneider, Rodenstock, Fujinon) are going to have great products.

Also, you need to decide on whether you want a monorail or field camera. The Tachihara is

a field camera.

Lots of options out there but you need to educate yourself a bit more than you've

indicated!

Good luck... LF is definitely a journey and it's a lot of fun as well! :)

Cheers

Daniel,

I had considered one of the Sekonics, in fact... the 608, but decided in favor of the Pentax

Digital Spotmeter instead.

Great meter!

Try increasing the film speed and see what happens. If it starts to read the shadow areas

after you do that, you'll know for sure that it's a sensitivity issue.

Good luck.

Cheers

Bohdan,

With all due respects to Michael and Vic...

Or, better yet... just send the back to Marflex and have them repair it. I wouldn't think

there's too many more unpleasant surprises than to carry the back with you on a long trip,

set up the camera, take the shot and discover that the $&&%^#* back hadn't worked

properly! :)

Cheers

Hi Suzanne,

You might want to post this question on either The Large Format Forum:

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/

or:

http://www.apug.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=44

One of the lens gurus such as Jim Galli, or Ole, or Kerry Thalmann will most likely know

about the lens and give you ample information. :)

Cheers

Howard,

I use a 5x7 Dorff with a 4x5 reducing back and it gives me the best of both worlds. I also

use an 8x10 Dorff.

So, my obvious answer is a Dorff 5x7!

"...but film for 5x7 is almost as limited as 8x10, so why not go for 8x10?"

As for a shortage of 5x7 films... I use Provia, Velvia, FP4+, HP5+, and Kodak EPR. So, film

IS available but it'll depend on what you're looking for. Just be a bit adaptive and you'll be

fine using this format.

Take a look at the following article from View Camera Magazine on films available for this

format:

http://www.viewcamera.com/archives.html

I believe Ted Harris has also written another article in the most recent copy of View

Camera.

Alternatively, 8x10 film can be cut down to 5x7 so you also have access to all the

8x10 films in the marketplace.

Shortage of 5x7 films?

NO! :)

Cheers

John,

Quality Light Metrics in LA is the name of the place I was thinking of...

Cheers

John,

There's a place in LA that specializes in the repair of meters... sorry, I can't recall the name

at the moment. Perhaps, one of the other forum members will be able to come up with it.

Unless you got the meter for a very, very, very good meter... if I were in your shoes "I"

would send it back to the seller. Remember, Minolta is no longer making camera

equipment and, therefore, it'll only be a matter of time before they cease repairs to their

gear.

I use a Flashmeter III and V and can say, "yes, Minolta made good meters." But, I'm starting

to think about switching to Sekonic rather than staying with the Minolta line. Again, this is

just my opinion.

I already have a Pentax digital spotmeter for my Zone System work. It's a GREAT meter. :)

"The ad said it had been tested..."

This leaves a lot to be left to the imagination. Tested for what? He really didn't tell you

anything substantive!

Anyway, this is simply "my" opinion and states what "I" would do if I were in your shoes. :)

Good luck

Cheers

Bill,

Obviously, something about the subject matter is speaking to you and that's why you've

recorded it over and over again.

It's a nice image.

Doug,

It looks like part of the curb and shadow to me... I'd be surprised if he caught the bed with

a 150mm lens.

But, I could be wrong! :>)

Cheers

Gerald,

I would think that the controls on dust during the manufacturing of readyloads and

quickloads would be pretty stringent. So, it would surprise me if the dust were deposited

onto the film during the manufacturing process.

I would recommend that you vacuum out the inside of your camera, take a couple of shots

with the readyload, and have it processed. Also, vacuum out the readyload holder too.

There's nothing worse than getting a great shot and then having to touch up dust/lint

spots on the negs!

Good luck... hope you get this resolved. :)

Cheers

Ron,

Why don't you just email Clyde and ask him directly?

He's a very down-to-earth kind of fellow.

Cheers

Jeff at Badger Graphics is a great guy to deal with too.

http://www.badgergraphic.com

Cheers

Nee,

That lens is usable up to 5x7 so it'll have plenty of room for movements on a 4x5.

Cheers

Ted,

Thanks for the assistance earlier... it was getting to be a frustrating thing.

But, it's back up and accessible again.

Thanks to you, Ralph, Tom, and the Techie! :)

Cheers

No, don't innundate Tom with your email messages... I've been in constant communication

with Tom and he's currently checking with his people to ensure that it isn't something on

their end of things.

As soon as he gets back to me... I'll post something here and on APUG.

Cheers

Khoa,

Correction!

The ebay listing hasn't ended yet... it's still active! So, follow the auction and see what it

sells for. Then, you can gauge the value of your camera in comparison to the one on the

block.

Sorry... my mistake. :)

Cheers

Khoa,

One place to look for "valuations" of your gear might be the following:

1. Jim at Midwest Photo http://www.mpex.com

2. Jeff at Badger Graphics http://www.Badgergraphic.com

3. Ebay - Here's an example (Item number: 290059969193) - It sold for $299 but it came

with a 4x5 reducing back and is described as being in "very good condition."

For what you're going to get for it... you might just as well keep it and go shoot some pics

with it! Or, at least, that's what I'd do! :)

Cheers

Erin,

Brian is correct on the 410 geared head... it's too light for the Dorff 8x10. I'd suggest the

405, which is a much sturdier piece of equipment.

Btw, the heads that we're talking about are geared heads. I prefer them because they allow

you to make fine adjustments on one plane without disturbing another plane during the

adjustment.

Lastly, the 405 will run you about US$300 at the moment but they seldom come up on the

auction block!

Cheers

Hi Erin,

I use the same pod that you used in school... the 475 Manfrotto. For a head, I'm using a

Manfrotto 405 head.

As an alternative to the 475 (because it's a heavy beast, isn't it? :)) I'm considering either a

Gitzo 1325 or a Berlebach 3022. Both of these pods are strong and light.

Cost wise... the Gitzo runs about US$500 on the bay. The Berlebach 3022 can be had for

under CDN$300.00 from Rob Skeoch. His company website is at:

http://www.bigcameraworkshops.com/default2.asp

I shoot with a Dorff 8x10 (with 360 Symmar f6.8) and a Dorff 5x7. The F1 will be fine with

either of the above tripods. :)

If I were in your shoes (and I was a student)... I wouldn't hesitate going with the Berelebach

3022. Contact Rob at:

skeoch@sympatico.ca

Here's the Berlebach website:

http://www.berlebach.de/e_index.phpPHPSESSID=a15400f300866a88c61d7d806d49aa67

Good luck in making the decision! :)

Cheers

Chris,

I also had a Tachihara for a very short while. It was certainly a gorgeous looking camera

and, at times, I thought it was too beautiful to use. That said, IMHO, I thought it was

functional but not as well built and solid as some other cameras in the marketplace.

I ended up going with a Dorff 5x7 but, if I were to be looking for a back-up, personally

speaking, I would probably go with the 5x7 Shen-Hao instead.

Good luck in the decision! :)

Cheers

First time in a long time that I've given any thoughts to shooting out in the winter weather.

But, over the course of the last 3 or 4 days, we've gotten over 50 cm of the white stuff on

the ground and it's a nasty -15 degrees. However, with the humidity levels we get, it feels

even colder!

Winter boots are a definite must... as with heavy coat, hat, and gloves. Another accessory

that might come in handy are hand warmers.

Lastly, I wouldn't think it would be a good idea to let the film freeze either. And, if it's dry

but cold, static electricity might be something you'll have to deal with.

Cheers

Hi JD,

Aside from height considerations, you should also be asking yourself how far you'll be

hiking with your gear. Secondly, you should also consider the head you'll be mounting on

the pod.

I use a Manfrotto 475 pod with a 405 geared head and find it quite the heavy beast to lug

for very far. It's solid enough to support my Dorff 8x10 with a 360 Symmar f6.8 on it. But,

lugging it for any great distance isn't a pleasant thing to do.

My suggestion would be to look at either a wooden Berlebach (3022 or 4002) or a carbon

fiber Gitzo 1325. I'd not hesitate in suggesting the 405 geared head either.

The Berlebach will cost you just a couple of hundred dollars, if that. The 1325 will run you

about $500 on the bay.

Cheers