albert_h.

Are Carl Zeiss lenses sharper, do they produce more distinct pictures

then Bronica lenses? This is a comparison between the Hasselblad

501CM in kit and the Bronica SQ-B in kit.

I'm very embarrassed to post this. I don't want to say it but, for dozens of my negatives which were not agitated as well as they could be, I made some mistakes. I realize them now and I'm asking if I can have any hope. Some of the pictures have already gone onto to some acclaim, so this is doubly important.

I'm embarressed because my problem is that for dozens of them, I didn't use a hypo clearing agent, no wetting agent, no 30 minutes in changing water. Nothing, just the final wash which was a minute under a tap, or less, and then hanging to dry.

I'm aware that I should have done is use a hypo clearing agent, use a wetting agent, to prevent brownishness coming, and to ensure archival permanence and prevent degradation by leftover fixer/hypo. Am I right there on that one? ANYWAYS, I just need to know, NEED TO KNOW, is there hope of leaving it in a tray with a hypo clearing agent, or whatever, can it be cleaned out months later?

I have in mind to fill a tray with a hypo clearing agent, leave it in there for a while, and then go through the process like it had been made just now.

Sorry I've been so long. I can't help it, my concern is mountain wide.

BTW:Agitaion is improved since then, this is TMAX100 and delta100, and I've improved other areas. I use ID11 1-1, IN-1 stop Ilford, and Rapid fixer Kodak. Tap water.

Will PMK Pyro on TMAX100 and DELTA100 produce any noticable differences compared to ID-11 1-1 or Perceptol 1-1 when using 35mm and 5x7, 8x10 or somewheres around 31/2 by 5?

Also, some negatives have been coming out darker on some areas then some other areas. Someone please explain that. Am I not agitating enough? Its AgfaAPX100 with Perceptol 1-1. I agitate throughly, every minute or two for thirty seconds.

OH - Does PMK Pyro have any seperate versions? PMK Pyro I, II, III?

Tmax100 Pro film that I bought in Manhatten in one roll came out into pink negaties when tmax 100 pro film I've rolled myself bought in Toronto came out black. Both negatives are fine, but I'm curious.

Next thing, is how can I get rid of these spots that keep coming out on my negatives? They're terrible sometimes and other times not there. Is the film shield chemical that Edwal sells worth consideration? Or just a spotting kit?

Well, thats it, the only thing left is curling of tmax 100 pro film. Delta 100 Pro has never curled for me, but tmax 100 pro is bad. Is that why people use wetting agents?