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jon_goodman1

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Posts posted by jon_goodman1

    Miranda Sensorex II

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hi, Holly. I've always enjoyed the Mirandas I have, and lenses are not too difficult to find (although you'll probably pay more than $10 for them). As for replacing the mirror damper and other light seal, they're pretty straightforward. You can see many of the instructions I've written here: <a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html">http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html</a> I have not included the Miranda, but that isn't for any reason other than (a) I don't get too many requests and (b) they aren't difficult. If you need the materials to re-seal it, please send me an e:mail with "light seal supplies" in the reference line.<br>

    Jon</p>

    Minolta SRT 101: Shutter Problem?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hi, M. Iqbal. That is a very nice camera and a very good lens. You can see the image files I have written here: (remove the bottom plate to access the gear you will need to oil)...<br>

    <img src="http://usera.ImageCave.com/JonGoodman/SRT%20Shutter%20Fix(1).jpg" alt="" /><br>

    <img src="http://usera.ImageCave.com/JonGoodman/SRT_Shutter_Fix2.jpg" alt="" /><br>

    I hope this is helpful. After you place a small drop of light oil, cycle the shutter a few times. If you need instructions on replacing the light seals, I have written those also: <a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html">http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html</a><br>

    Good luck,<br>

    Jon</p>

    Petri 7 shutter problems

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>As I recall, you will see a large ring around the rear lens glass (outermost ring), and if you remove this with a spanner, the lens/shutter assembly will easily separate from the body. There will be some wires you'll have to cut. After that, I want to say you'll find three or four screws holding on the cover of the aperture mechanism. The shutter cocking lever may be in the way, but I also want to say the cover will slip over it and let you remove it. When you get inside, you may find the pins have come loose from the two aperture leaves, and this means you'll have to find a donor camera. Sometimes you can re-attach the pins, but it isn't easy nor very practical really. Good luck. <br>

    Jon</p>

    What temperature is "too cold" for classic cameras?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hi, Andy.<br>

    The SRT series suffered from secondary curtain lag which in most cases was caused by one gear sticking. Cold weather exacerbates the problem. Years ago, I prepared 2 annotated image files showing how to solve this. They are below. Hope this is helpful. Please let me know.</p>

    <p><img src="http://usera.ImageCave.com/JonGoodman/SRT%20Shutter%20Fix(1).jpg" alt="" /><br>

    <img src="http://usera.ImageCave.com/JonGoodman/SRT_Shutter_Fix2.jpg" alt="" /> Good luck,<br>

    Jon</p>

    Konica C35

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hello, Angelique. That is a decision you alone could make, but the C35 is a very nice fixed-lens camera, and you won't be disappointed in the quality of pictures. The black ones are less common, and so the value of it will be a bit more than the chrome (silver) ones. Personally, I would not sell it until I had at least tried some pictures with it. Good luck, and I hope you enjoy photography.<br>

    Jon</p>

    SRT 101 - Light Seals, Meter problem or else?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>The SRT cameras had a tendency for the second curtain to lag when one gear became sticky. This may not be the problem in your camera, however it can cause exposure problems and also on slower speeds it will cause the mirror to hang in the up position (until the camera is re-cocked). This is so common that years ago I prepared 2 annotated image files. You can see how to solve the difficulty with only 1 tiny drop of oil in the right place. The gear in question is underneath the bottom plate of the camera:</p>

    <p><img src="http://usera.ImageCave.com/JonGoodman/SRT%20Shutter%20Fix(1).jpg" alt="" /><br>

    <img src="http://usera.ImageCave.com/JonGoodman/SRT_Shutter_Fix2.jpg" alt="" /><br>

    Good luck. Please e:mail if you have more questions about this.<br>

    Jon</p>

    HOW TO REPLACE LIGHT SEALS WITHOUT USING FOAM STRIPS, MOVIE CAMERA STYLE

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Thanks!...that is why the kits I sell include self-adhesive fabric seal material in two thicknesses--1mm and 1.6mm. Plus, of course foam, which is a must for mirror damper use (overlooked in the discussion above) or professional re-sealing of 35mm cameras which were engineered to use foam. One other thing I'll mention (and this might be helpful for your press back): You can laminate the self-adhesive fabric over the foam remarkably well. This will provide the sliding seal needed with the sponginess of a foam seal...something impossible to do with fabric alone. The foam has been carefully designed to have both instant rebound ability as well as ease of compression, almost unlimited life expectancy and a very high ppi (pores per linear inch) measure. This is very difficult to accomplish in the world of foam production. And, since the foam is skived in thicknesses of 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm and 3.0mm, you can create virtually any imaginable foam shape or seal type. Example: The Vivitar 35ES (cousin to the Minolta 7sII) and the Olympus 35RC used an odd-shaped foam piece near the latch end which served to hold the film canister in place. It needs to be crafted just so. Please go over to the instruction site and see how I restore these seal pieces in both of these cameras. The 35ES was done over 2 years ago, and that piece is still like it was the day I created it. <br>

    Good luck, and please let me know if you have any questions,<br>

    Jon</p>

    Refoaming Light Trap of Plaubel Makina

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Denatured alcohol also is very good, and it does not have the health warnings that other solvents do. That and naphtha are my two personal favorites. I've not written re-sealing instructions for this camera...because I don't have one to use as the "model" for the images, but hopefully I'll find one in 2009.<br>

    Jon</p>

    Minolta Hi-Matic 11 and Konica Auto S2

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hi, August.<br>

    I have not had the battery/meter trouble you mentioned in your Konica. Actually, I use a Minolta Hi-Matic 9, and my Minolta and Konica's meter are very similar in readings (using the zinc-air cell). Another I use the za cell in is an Olympus 35RC, and the meter in it is also in line with the other two...sometimes a slight bit overexposed (maybe 1/4 to 1/2 stop or so). Could be an adjustment?<br />Best regards,<br>

    Jon</p>

    Minolta Hi-Matic 11 and Konica Auto S2

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hi, August.<br>

    Nice photos! I've always liked both cameras...probably the Konica more so. I make / sell a battery adapter that turns a 675 zinc-air into a PX-13 clone. You can see it here: <strong>http://tinyurl.com/9g2dea</strong><br />To my knowledge there is no leakage hazard from the zinc-air cells. You can preserve the life by keeping the foil you removed to activate the cell and putting it back over the holes, or you can use a piece of common tape. Also...years ago...I actually re-activated some dying ones by forcing water back into them (although if you get them on sale, they're less than $1 each). Thanks again for the pictures...nice to see part of NY City.<br>

    Jon</p>

    Focusing/General Use Tips for Konica Auto S2

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>If you need instructions on re-sealing either of them (also other popular rangefinders), you could use the ones I've written: <a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html">http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html</a> (not on the site yet: Olympus 35SP, 35EC, 35RC...plus some others for SLR and medium format)...please send an e:mail if you want pdf files for them.<br>

    Jon</p>

    RB67 light sealing instructions updated...

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Hello and Merry Christmas!<br>

    While re-sealing a couple of RB67 film backs for a fellow the other day, it dawned on me I forgot to include instructions for restoring the dark slide lip seal. So, I've corrected the instructions to include that. If anybody wants a pdf file of the back and camera body instructions, please e:mail me and put something like "RB67 instructions" in the subject line.<br>

    Best regards,<br>

    Jon</p>

    Johnson Smith & Co. (the x-ray glasses guys)

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Around 1960-61, I bought a jet engine from Johnson Smith. It was a cylinder into which you poured gasoline with a screw-on top. Then there was a tray which sat under that into which you also poured gasoline--about 1/2 inch deep. When you lit the gas in the tray, it caused the gas in the cylinder to heat and expand causing it to be forced out of a tiny venturi in the top and catch on fire. Was it a jet engine? Yes it was. Could it be controlled? Not at all. Anything you attached it to went in random directions and eventually caught something else on fire. Could it be sold through the mail today? Ha, ha, I don't think so. But it was fun in a dangerous way.<br>

    I still have a pair of the X-ray glasses. Really. And I still can not see through women's clothing, but the glasses will always get a smile.<br>

    Jon</p>

    For the Minolta-ites

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Don't know too much about the Minoltina-P, but I got an AL-F in a box lot purchase and it has one of the brightest and neatest rangefinder patches I've seen. Camera looks good, has the original case, shutter seems fine at all speeds (1/30 through 1/500) and meter seems accurate. We'll see how it does.<br>

    Jon</p>

    Contax 137 MA re-sealing instructions completed

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    I've had some requests for a set of re-sealing instructions for this camera, and I've finally had time to make some

    images and write them. If you need a pdf file, please send me an e:mail (Jon_Goodman@yahoo.com) and request

    one. If you need a leather covering kit for it, please look at my E-Bay offerings (ID is still interslice), and you'll see

    the kits out of Germany I'm now selling. Really nice stuff they are, too. Happy Thanksgiving to all.

     

    Jon

    Mamiya 645J (also M645 and 1000S) re-sealing instructions available...

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    Thanks, guys! Many of the instructions I've written are posted for all here: http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html However, there are some I've written more recently, and they have not been posted yet. I'll list those in this message. If anybody needs them, I'm happy to e:mail pdf files. Those include: Olympus 35SP, 35EC, 35RC, Canon FT-QL, Yashica TL-Super, and seems like one or two more. More to follow as time (and available cameras) allow.

     

    Jon

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