jon_goodman1

<p>Yes, the Canonet kit fits the Canonet 28 and the later model of the QL19 as I recall...that is to say any of the smaller (second generation) Canonets. I'm also looking for a first generation Canonet for which to make a seal kit. Like a dumbo I sold the two bottom-cocking models I had a few years ago and didn't keep the measurements.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Thanks very much guys! One other thing I'll mention...in the new instructions with the pre-cut seal kits, I've included about 12 images and a narrative on how to clean the viewfinder & showing where the adjustments are for the rangefinder. <br>

Nice cameras, these were, but the viewfinder/rangefinder is often hazy...<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Chris Sherlock (on Rick Oleson's page is a link to him) is the best person to do this work I know of. Extremely capable and very friendly. <br>

Jon</p>

<p>Hello, Kevin.<br>

It isn't usually too difficult, and actually I have started explaining how to do this (with several images) in some of the re-sealing instructions I write. Canonet, Hi-Matic, Petri etc. One thing to keep in mind, however: in a few of the cases, the front lens is actually a double lens held in place with strong glue. The design of this lens leaves an arc of open air, and the inner surfaces of those lenses can become quite hazy (Konica C35 was bad about this). Removing those lenses and separating them can be very tough as it is easy to crack them. The glue often does not respond to any common solvents. If you need more information, please feel free to contact me...<br>

Jon</p>

<p>A couple of weeks ago, I attended the Texas State Fair...one of the country's largest and most popular State fairs. I have done so each year for longer than I care to admit. The surprising thing to me this year was that I was <strong>not</strong> the only person carrying a film camera. I saw a Nikon (FM, possibly FE--was black and had been used very hard), a Canonet GIII, one of the last of the Canons (some model of Rebel)...and one Olympus Stylus a woman was using. Last year, I didn't see a single film camera.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>It may not help on this one, but in some of the new re-sealing instructions I've been writing (and some modified older instructions), I have been incorporating images and narrative of how to clean the viewfinder/rangefinder. A couple of examples: Canonet GIII, Minolta Hi-Matic full size). I have tried to show how this can be done with tools handy to anybody, also. Anyone needing to re-seal their rangefinder might keep it in mind. I'm happy to write more of these. They're not being posted to KYPhoto forum right now due to an ongoing investigation of copyright fraud and piracy being committed by another eBay seller, however. <br /><br />Jon </p>

<p>Good luck with it, Oliver. In case you need some repair pages, I heartily suggest Tom Tiger's site. Tom Piel has done a super job of explaining most of what the Zenit owner needs to know there. Please let me know if you can't find a link (Google should take you there). Another nice Zenit is the 3M. Limited in lenses, but a neat one nonetheless. The lack of instant return mirror makes the camera much quieter and smoother than most. Actually it is a very smooth SLR.<br>

I'll tell a story on myself now...about 10 years ago, I converted a 3M to instant return status. Took a bit of work, but not too bad. Then...and only after this had been done...did I realize there were no 39mm automatic aperture lenses. I should have spent my time adding a light meter instead, eh?<br>

Jon</p>

<p>You did a great job, Louis, and thanks very much for the compliment! Before I go any further, please let me direct some praise to 2 friends in the UK...one for creating this website years ago and leaving it up: <a href="http://www.ukcamera.com/collect/ricoh_reseal.html">http://www.ukcamera.com/collect/ricoh_reseal.html</a> And another for loaning me his 500g from which I made the kit. Super camera and super pictures. Thanks for sharing. (Lot of fun cleaning that camera up, wasn't it?)<br>

Jon</p>

<p>The Zenit E (and all Zenit models with the meter window to the right of the rewind knob) suffer a strange light leak issue. The side of the pentaprism was sealed with a foam which by now is probably gone. This allows light to wash in and into the lens chamber. You can wind up with some weird overexposed pictures and if you don't understand what is happening, those can be hard to find. Here is a sequence of images I made several years ago showing what I mean:<br>

<img src="<a href="http://usera.ImageCave.com/JonGoodman/Zenitleak.jpg">http://usera.ImageCave.com/JonGoodman/Zenitleak.jpg</a>"><br>

First image is me shining a light into the lens opening. You will see a faint line in the side of the meter window. Second image is the top removed and the same light coming through the lens opening...to let you see how bad this leak might be. Third image--I've removed old foam and sealed the entire opening. Doing this will improve the Zenit greatly in most cases.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Thanks so very much for the nice and complimentary thoughts, folks! This worldwide fraternity of people never ceases to amaze and impress me...both from the intelligence level, the considerate nature and sense of humor. I wonder if the collectors of Beanie Babies could hold a candle to us. Probably not. <br>

On an interesting note (at least interesting to me), I have always considered the light seal kits a windsock indicator of interest in film cameras, and this year interest is up. I have to admit I am now hearing from more people in places where interest had once been light (Africa for one example). I thought demand had peaked around 2005-2006, but maybe it hasn't. The nature of interest has changed, however. In 2000, there was notably more interest in slr models. Today there is increasing interest in rangefinders, and also in medium format models.<br>

Have a good weekend. <br>

Jon</p>

<p>Did any of you folks in the UK see the article about me in the 125th Anniversary edition of Amateur Photographer?<br /><br />Not to brag in any way...please perish the thought. Actually and honestly I consider this quite an honor and I'm grateful for it. I'm extremely pleased to see the Interslice Light Seal Kits were given 5 stars out of a possible 5 stars, and I really can't tell you how happy I was to have been featured in this very special edition. 125 years of publishing a magazine dedicated to photography is certainly an amazing accomplishment. Please see page 27 if you have a copy and are curious. <br /><br />While I'm at it, I'd like to extend a large and heartfelt thank you to everybody here who has supported "the light seal project" for the past 10+ years. The primary mission was to put professional grade re-sealing materials in the hands of folks either already comfortable with DIY work or wanting to learn a bit and give it a go. The secondary mission was to introduce innovation to re-sealing. I've always hoped to make the process easier and hopefully pleasant in some ways. <br>

Without the support of folks like you, the project would be a different story entirely, and I never forget that.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Hi, Kristinn. Please try the oil solution I have posted images about. It may not solve your problem, but again...it might. This gear is prone to stick in all the SRT series, and it can create havoc when it does. Good luck.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>I wasn't kidding about having one of these...it is a black one, and a nice camera, too. Probably you can work around the data thing. I had one of the databacks for the OM-2 a few years ago which you could not set past 12/31/99, but it wasn't really a big problem. You could still set it to say things like 00/01/01 if you just took the time to set it manually for the date you wanted each day...as I recall, it simply could not advance from there because it didn't understand the sequence.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>The databack model? I have one of those! Anybody want to buy it?<br />Jon</p>

<p>Thanks very much for the endorsements Marc and Tom! In the latest edition of the re-sealing instructions, I show how to remove the top plate and clean the rangefinder/viewfinder (even show the adjustment screws I think...has been a month or two since I wrote them). At any rate, I think I used 12 image files and a paragraph to help de-mystify this procedure using only common tools and some masking tape. If anyone here needs those, all you have to do is email me. Oh, and I also created templates to reproduce the ends for the seals...just like original.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Those are great shots and that is a great camera, Andy. In case you ever need to replace the mirror damper pad, the latest re-sealing instructions I've written for that model include instructions on the process (with about 12 or so images as I recall). Please send an email if you need more info. Thanks for sharing the pics.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Neat shots all. I have finally prepared a pre-cut light seal kit for the 500g. I had it listed on eBay for a while (ID...interslice), but it wasn't selling too robustly, so I didn't re-list. If anyone wants one, please send me an email and put ricoh 500g in the subject line.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>I'm surprised nobody mentioned the Revere Eye-Matic. It is a really good example of what happens when designers can't step away from the bong long enough. But it was a medium format camera and you got about $50 worth of scrap metal in it.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>If you need an adapter that turns the #675 hearing aid (zinc-air) battery into a perfect clone of the old PX-13 or PX-625, please send me an email. I make these, they're guaranteed for life and they're $14 which includes free shipping to anywhere.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Go to any fabric store and ask for microfiber cloth. I believe you will be surprised to find how little you'll pay for a yard of this. <br>

Jon</p>

<p>Thanks, Peter. Actually the foam I sell has been proven not to deteriorate nor change for over 40 years (and this span of time is approaching 50 years as I type this note). I wouldn't sell it otherwise. Part of the problem with the original foam (besides being a cheap ester product) was formaldehyde-based adhesive, but I insist on 100% rubber-based adhesive (the same product NASA, Daimler, Boeing and others use). I don't think this is a light leak, however. I think Rick nailed the problem, especially if the negative shows dark only in the negative area...good luck!<br>

Jon </p>

<p>Yours is working as it should, <em>but </em>moving the camera in and out of light should change the EV value. In my observation, the camera is happy to select an aperture value if you have the shutter speed ring set to a specific number and the aperture ring set to A but it is not happy to select a shutter speed if you have the aperture ring set to a specific number and the shutter speed ring set to A. Very nice rangefinder, even if the EV system is a little quirky. If you have both rings set to A, the meter will recognize light changes, adjust the aperture as needed, but it seems to fire at one speed...maybe 1/60?<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Opinions will differ, but I have found double-sided pressure sensitive adhesive (the same rubber-based product I use on the foams I sell) works best for me. I remove the leather or leatherette, clean both camera and the old leatherette very well and then apply the the pressure sensitive adhesive to the leather, cutting to match the shape. Then, I lick (or wet) the psa after I remove the backing paper and apply to the camera. Licking the adhesive retards stickiness until I position it exactly as I wish. Some people tell me they add a drop of dish soap to a glass of water and use this, but for me saliva is fine. Once all is dry (could take 30 min to an hour, depending on humidity, etc), press down for good. If you need to remove it (which most people don't), simply pick up a corner of the leather and peel it gently and slowly back. If you need a bit of this to fix yours, please e:mail me.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>I agree with John Robinson...The edges are very sharp, and that makes me think of a shutter problem, but I can not rule out a light leak at the hinge end. You can see the instructions I've written for the ST605 here if you want to re-seal it: <a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html">http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html</a> <br>

Jon</p>

<p>It is an exceptional camera. Should you need to re-seal it, this can be a bit tricky because of the odd-shaped foam piece on the film door, however I've written instructions for it (including the odd-shaped foam piece) which you can see here: <a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html">http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html</a> And if you need a battery adapter to turn the #675 hearing aid (zinc-air) battery into a perfect clone of the old PX-13 / PX-625, please send me an e:mail. I'll point you to my E-Bay auctions. <br /><br />Jon</p>