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gregg_johnson

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Posts posted by gregg_johnson

  1. I would agree with this statement, because photography is all about the way we as photographers manipulate light. In order to manipulate or control something you need to get an understanding of it.

     

    What is light? The visible light spectrum is scientifically described in terms of color temperature, and is measured in degrees of Kelvin.

     

    How do we control it? Through the use of aperatures, shutters, shades, reflectors, etc.

     

    Are there different types of light? Yes, there's ambient light, omni light, spot light, xray, ultraviolet, electromagnetic.

     

    What makes this statement great is that our process is based upon the light. Not enough light and it's underexposed, too much light and it's overexposed and both cases are the results of misunderstanding light. We need just enough light to bring out the detail in shadowed areas, but not too much as to burn or blow out highlights.

     

    Good subject.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Gregg

  2. I'd suggest buying either a few 512 or 1 gig cards as opposed to buying 1 card that can hold all the images, so that you don't have all of your eggs in one basket (all of your images on one card). If you have all your images on one card and something goes wrong with that card, you'll feel really sick. Of course, if you do want to have all your images on one card, you can always do a periodic download of the images to your laptop or wherever, but IMO, it would be wiser to have many cards, and when one is full, replace it and keep shooting as oppossed to having one big card and taking a chance that you may incur a mishap. Does what I'm saying make sense?
  3. Here's how I calculate the cost of a print using 220ml Epson 4000 inks. This is based on Epson's price per inks on their website. <p>

     

    At $112.00 per 220ml cartridge - 112/220= .51.<br />

    8x10= 80*.51= $41.00<br />

    16x20= 320*.51= $163.00<br />

    18x24= 432*.51= $220.00<p>

     

    Add in your labor/editing cost and you'll have the price for an unframed image. If the cost of inks go down, past the savings on to your customers.<p>

     

    Or you can go to the following link and figure out <a href= "http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/4000-cost.shtml" target= "new">Tracking the Cost of Printing with an Epson 4000

    </a><p>

     

    Hope this helps,<p>

     

    Gregg

  4. Thanks Jared. That's the kind of info I need! I will go without natural light, hard floor, and neutral gray walls for sure. It's all so very logical since you've pointed it out. I need to discuss the ceiling height with the designer. I'm sure I'll have at least 10 feet but just to be sure, I won't have any overhead light fixtures installed, since my strobes will do all the work. If I need additional lighting I'll purchase free standing lamps.

     

    Thanks again,

     

    Gregg

  5. I'd like to here from those of you that have designed your own

    studio, or work in a studio. How much space would be adequate? What

    colors should the walls be? What kind of flooring is best? What are

    the advantages of using natural light vs. studio lights

    (windowless)? What are your experiencing working in a studio

    environment? Any comments you have are greatly appreciated!

     

    Thanks

  6. I buy Tru Vue glass in 16 x 20 and 18 x 24 bulk, and specifically use these 2 sizes for my prints, which allows me to interchange for exhibits as needed. I also buy all my materials; mat board, foam core, hardware, etc., in bulk and do my own framing. So far, I've only used matte black frames, but eventually that will probably change, but the point is to find a standard size that you can live with and stick with it
  7. Tony - I think I will have to agree with Stuart K. in regards to trying a new format. I was stuck in a rut with my old gear. I needed new equipment because my old gear was breaking down (Canon A1 and AE1 Program w/lenses). I switched to Nikon and bought an N80. The manufacturer doesn't make a differnce, the point is that it renewed my interest in photography. Afterwards, I switched to digital photography which opened up a whole new avenue, providing me with a whole new range of possibilities, and the experimentation has yet to cease and it's been about 4 years.

    The point I'm trying to make is that maybe you need to free yourself from old habits and explore new possiblities. Jump into the unknown. Take a chance. Think outside the box...

  8. I bought the Nikon 60mm Macro lens a few weeks ago and love it! It's great for portraiture IMO. If it's too sharp, add a little soft focus with some software. The portraits that I did on my website were shot using the 60mm. The 60mm for my purposes are absolutely perfect, as the 50mm was too short, and the 85mm is too long. Both are excellent lenses, but the 60mm is the baby bear... Just right.
  9. Tristan -

    I have a 50mm lens but it's just a little too wide in my studio, and for MY purposes 75mm is not enough. It may suit you well but the 60mm going to 90mm on the DSLR is absolutely perfect. Plus, I don't use extension tubes.

     

    Gary -

    Absolutely! The close up function of the lens is an added bonus for me.

     

    KLIX - You are right about the 85mm's Bokeh, it can't be beat. I use it for outdoor portraiture - Head shots, and it's awesome, but as you have experienced, for me it's just a little too long in my studio. The 60mm Bokeh is, however, very good. I'm telling you, the 60mm is the Baby Bear, not too long, not too short, it's just right. I don't find it to be slow either. Going from Micro to normal it takes a while to hunt but after that it's ok.

  10. I bought a new Nikon 60mm Micro lens 2 days ago and I can't believe

    how sweet it is! On my D70, it's a 90mm which makes it PERFECT for

    portraits. I love primes. I also own the 85mm and 24mm Nikon lens,

    but this 60mm Micro is by far my favorite, especially for portraits,

    but I'm going to get out tomorrow and shoot some sceneries with it.

    Has anyone else used this lens, or if you use another brand of camera,

    have you tried the 60mm on a DSLR or 90mm on a full frame body? I'd

    like to know your opinions...

  11. Please help me. I am a poor middle aged American that wants to be a photographer. However, I need equipment. Please send me a Hasselblad H1D because my Nikon D70 just don't cut it. Here is a picture of the camera I request to make me a better photographer... <a href= "http://www.hasselbladusa.com/" target= "new"> Hasselblad</a>. If you can't send me the H1D, this <a href= "http://www.lotusviewcamera.at/" target= "new"> Lotus View Camera</a> will do. <p>

    My email is: gjohnson441496@comcast.net<p>

    Thank you

  12. The images can be converted to black and white via software like Photoshop, Nikon Capture 4.2.1, nik color Efex, just to name the few that I am familiar with. There are many ways to convert as well. For example, using PS (Photoshop), you can convert to b/w using Desaturation, Channel Mixer, Multichannel, or Grayscale. Some software, like the nik color Efex, does all the work for you simply by you choosing a filter.

     

    Have fun with your new camera.

  13. I've given my response in my original answers above. Body langauge is expressed in far more ways than in your conversation example, which is the textbook example describing body langauge while engaging in conversation. I think John's excercise is an attempt to get us to break free of the "textbook" and delve deeper into the more subtle actions people display in everyday life.
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