evan_parker

I've recently become an employee of a camera chain, and thus am

eligible for Canon's employee discount program. I can get a brand

new 10D for $1020, but I need a lens for it! Does anyone else here

know about these discounts (can I get them even on lenses that are

not specifically listed in the price sheets, considering only about

ten lenses or so are on there)? Also: are there any other companies

besides Nikon and Canon that offer discounts to camera store

employees that are authorized dealers of their equpiment?

 

Thanks for any replies!

Dan:

 

I've found that VR lenses can produce excellent results with panning providing that they are set in the NORMAL, not the ACTIVE VR mode. Of course, YMMV.

I know that HC-110 is supposed to last a long time, and I've

searched the forms to know that when it turns pink, it's gone.

However, I have a bottle that is about 1/3 full and has probably

been sitting for about 5 months. The soup in the bottom seems pretty

normal colored, but the walls of the bottle have turned a brownish

color, presumably due to oxidized developer that stuck to the walls

of the bottle. I shook the bottle vigorously and it removed some of

the discoloration or "crap" clinging to the walls, but not all of it.

 

My question is: Is it still worth running an important roll through?

I know I should just test it, and that's probably what I'll do, but

does anyone know if this should or shouldn't be a viable developer?

 

Thanks!

All I want it to have is AT LEAST the same image quality as the Rebel, although I doubt it will have that, and it'll cost $1000 just for the body. I guarantee it. I've come not to expect too much from Nikon in the digital arena, they always run behind schedule and their digicams are rarely worth the wait. Give me a Canon D series over a Nikon D series any day.

 

Believe me, I love my Nikon, in fact all of my film cameras and lenses are Nikon, but digitally they are way behind the times.

Considering the Contax TVS Digital is a Kyocera in a nice case, I'd skip it. Kyocera is the bitch of the electronics world, right up there with Daewoo.

S2 ?

Shut UP! Nikon digicams rU1ez0r j00 a55!

 

Sorry. :)

One word: Diafine.

I've heard the 828 has very high noise levels in comparison the prosumer level dSLRs. Also, when using non-Sony flashes, you can only shoot in manual (or aperture priority? I forget) but you don't get any fancy 3D Matrix TTL OMG BBQ WTF metering.

I'm considering getting a Digital Rebel, but being a Nikon person I'm

a little bit scared about the lens quality from Canon (although

admittedly, this is probably paranoia induced by fellow Nikonians and

not anything based on fact). Basically, I'm going to be getting

either the Digital Rebel (300D) or the Nikon D100, and I want to know

what a good starter lens is (besides the kit, and yes I know about

the crop factor).

 

When comparing the two lenses mentioned in the subject line, they

seem very, very similar, although I've hard that Canon's IS is less

effective than Nikon's VR. Is the absence of ED glass going to make a

noticeable difference with pictures taken through the Canon lens? On

Canon's side, their lens is considerably less expensive, at least at

KEH.

 

Any opinions would be super ultra greatly appreciated.

I do have a Nikon fetish, unfortunately for me with the awesome new Rebel. Does anyone have any more information on the much-rumored Nikon dSLR that is supposed to compete with it?

I'm eighteen years old and on the brink of having around $1000 to

spend, and I can save up more if need be. I have a Nikon N80 and love

it to death, but more often than not I find myself going into my

school's lab and using the film scanner... making me think that

having a digital file from the start may be the best way to go.

 

I work at Cord Camera in Westerville, Ohio, which is an authorized

dealer for just about everyone BUT Sony. I get to play with the Rebel

quite a bit, in fact, I have sold two of them. However, they just

don't seem quite up to the same build quality that I expect in a

Camera. Despite people's complaints about N80 vs F100 build quality,

I think that the N80 is still a pretty well built camera, but I'm not

sure if I could put up with anything lower. The Rebel is also a

pretty darn big camera. The picture quality is absolutely phenomenal,

though.

 

I have heard a lot about the Sony 717 on PhotoSig, where many rabid

lovers of this camera reside. Apparently, Sony is making a new

camera, the 828, with a four color sensor, 8MP resolution, and a Carl

Zeiss T* lens. As it is not a dSLR, it also has LCD preview

capability. Lenses are not interchangable of course, but the Zeiss is

a damn nice lens.

 

So help me decide, photo.netters. The 717 is going for pretty cheap

now, but it doesn't have much of a wide end and its going to be

replaced soon. The 828 is sweet, but its probably going to be more

than a Digital Rebel and since my store doesn't carry it, I won't get

a discount. I can get a discount on the Rebel (from $999 to around

$870 with lens probably), but it's not my ideal camera. Or of course,

I could just stick with film and get a new lens.

 

As I'm not going to explain my entire life story here, I just want

everyone to give their opinions on what THEY would do in my

situation. I know everyone's opinion is different, but I'd like to

hear them anyways.

 

Thanks for your time!

It's easy to use the healing or clone brush of Photoshop or Photoshop Elements to "paint out" pet eyes. If you don't have this software, it is worth every penny.

 

To the Kodak user: Yeah, the Schneider lens attracted me to, but everyone I work with seems to play it down because Kodak makes it. From what I've heard from you, this doesn't seem fair at all! Could you let me know, either here or off-board (abstraxion@razor.ws), if I could see any full-resolution images? Thanks so much! I really appreciate it.

 

Any Fuji users out there?

I have developed a number of Tri-X rolls, shot at 1250, both new and

old emulsion, and they seem kinda flat and low contrast. Is there a

way to remedy this?

 

Also: There's very little shadow detail in the negatives. I realize

this is a result of pushing film greatly, but I thought that Diafine

was supposed to salvage most of the shadow areas?

I don't have a lot of money, so I want to purchase a good quality non

dSLR digital camera. It seems like, finally, these compact cameras

are offering sufficient quality to please all but the most demanding

photo buffs (and even that group at smaller picture sizes).

 

In particular, I am looking at Fuji cameras because my employee

discount discounts these cameras the most (as I work at a Fuji

affiliated photo lab). The S5000, at around $390, looks like a great

deal.

 

However, the selection we have on hand at this time isn't that great,

and I'd like to hear everyone's opinions on this matter. What about

the Fuji F700 (kinda expensive at 600, but it's got the Super CCD SR

sensor for extra dynamic range), or the equivalent Canons, Nikons,

and the darkhorse of the race, the Olympus cameras?

 

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Ilford's site doesn't seem to have as much information, but it does have most everything that one may need much more readily accessible.

I always like to keep a roll of Tri-X and XP2 Super in my bag wherever I go (ok, more like a dozen rolls!). The Tri-X (pushed to 1250 in Diafine) and XP2 are just the weaponry one needs to take care of extremely difficult lighting situations, in my experience.

I'm relatively new to Diafine, and developed a roll of 400TX just the other day. The negs seemed pretty thing, shot at EI 1250 BTW, compared to normally developed Tri-X negs in D-76 or Rodinal. Is this normal?

I believe it's a DX code. All 35mm C-41 films have them, so that when the uncut and developed roll of film is to be printed, it is loaded into a negative carrier which has a small barcode-type reader that detects the type of film being loaded so it does not have to be done manually. Because every film has different color balancing characteristics, this allows the machine to adjust to the type of film being printed, and can also inform the machine of the frame number.

Feli, the United States also has a higher GNP than Europe, so even though the US consumes more, it also has LESS PEOPLE THAN EUROPE, and thus the energy is used much more efficiently in the United States.

 

Have a great day.

I've found that, besides the darkroom equipment itself, high quality paper expenses get pretty high. I'm not as miserly with paper as I might like, and this coupled with my tendency towards perfectionism but not-quite-perfect-skills leads to more waste than I'd like.

I agree with Beau. Rodinal is quite grainy, but the grain, to me at least, is attractive enough to not be offensive even at large enlargements. The tonality that Rodinal lends also helps make up for its graininess.

Hey, I don't mean to be a jerk, but you really need to read the text ABOVE the new thread text box.

Mr. Haykin,

 

I'm thinking of doing primarily walk-in (if you can call it that, perhaps just picking up film from a local shop and having it developed in my bathroom) and perhaps some mail-in from photo.netters needing some extra rolls developed.

 

Seeing as how you have so much experience in the business, and judging by the knowledge you've dipslayed on the forums that I've seen, I don't even want to compare my services to yours, as I'm sure I will be put to shame :). But if I do decide to start up a low-volume, personal service, are there any comments that you'd like to make? Thank you so much for your time.

I'm thinking of starting a film-processing and perhaps

contact-printing and proof-printing service for amateur black and

white photographers. I know that many people don't like to develop

their film, but for some reason I just really enjoy processing black

and white film to perfection, and making Adams' "score" come to life.

 

My question to you is: What would you pay to get your film (35mm and

120) developed in a choice of developers (Rodinal, HC-110, DD-X,

Ilfosol-S, Microdol-X, Photo Formularu BW-2, and possible PMK and

Pyrocat-HD)? Is there any service that you would like a

hobbyist/entreprenuer like me to provide that professional services do

not? My aim is to be an inexpensive and less time consuming

alternative to at-home processing, mainly for those who don't have

enough time to caress their own negatives the way they wish they could.

 

Any suggestions/comments/questions?