tim_kimbler

The bright spot is on the edge opposite the notched edge on all the

negatives with the problem. I guess that would be the end of the

negative. That edge is in line with the rotation.

 

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Tim..........

Thanks for the info on water spots to all. I have made a number of contact prints. Many are lighter on the right edge of the print, about 1/2 inch wide top to bottom. I don't see any thing on most of the negatives, all though a couple are darker on the edge. Is this due to some development problem. I use a JOBO tank and a Besler motor drive with constant 180 reversing motion. My tank is much like a 35mm tank. I do 8 negatives at a time with 10 oz of chemical at room temperature for 6.75 minutes in Extoll. I guess the negative is streaked on the edge.

 

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Tim..........

I have had good luck developing TMAX 100 with my Jobo tank and an old rotary drive base. My question is how do you remove water spots left after development? I hang the negatives from a string and let them air dry, yet water spots are often left on the negatives.

I am new to this, but I have been using the method you described for developing for the past six months. I have a JOBO 2551 tank that holds 12 sheets of film. It is great compaired to 35mm loading. I use a Beseler color motor drive. Both were bought for less than 100 dollars used. If the new tank is even better it must be great.

 

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Tim.........

I shoot TMAX 100. I use TMAX or XTOL developer with what I consider to be good results. I have been told that Diafine two part will give much better results. Any thoughts? Any thoughts on a different film that may give better results? I've been using a 4X5 for only six months, but things are going well. I'm planning a trip to Big Bend and would like to get some good negatives.

 

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Thanks

Tim...............

I have done a lot of astrophotography, and masking. There is a good section on masking in Brad Wallis's book, (A Manual of Advanced Celestial Photography). You could probably find a copy at the library.

 

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Tim...............

I have the same JOBO tank. I bought it used at a camera show. I use a Beseler rotary motor drive, also bought used. All though I am new to 4X5 I have had perfect results. Total cost was 100 dollars. I use 16oz of developer for 12 sheets of film.

 

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Tim..........

John,

 

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I can't answer the questions about your camera, but I see you found the home-page I told you about.

 

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Tim............

I have an older Tachihara camera. It looks to be in good condition. It has a lot of movement when locked in place due to the mechanical parts that let you make your adjustment. Dose any one have ideas on how to rebuild these parts to tighten up the play. There is a lot of play in the rear section. When you put your negative in, the camera tilts back and forth about 1/8 inch due to slop in the brackets that alow rear swing. Again the front has a lot of slop and when you are focusing will tilt back and forth. Every thing seems to snap back in place when you are ready to take your picture and don't touch the camera. I would like to reduce the potential problem of a picture beeing out of focus by eliminateing the play, and make the movements smother. Any ideas on rebuilding would be great. I like the camera and to replace it with something better would most likley be a 1,000 dollars or more. I would also like to refinish the wood. Any thoughts on what product to use or where to buy replacement parts would be great.

 

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Tim............

 

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Tim.........

My camera is a Tachihara 4X5 and Nikon 210W. Both are in excellent

condition. I may not understand the process of focusing and

movement. I do use a Toyo loop. When I focus the entire image is not

sharp. Usley most of the foreground and middle of the image are

sharp. The background is out of focus. When I stop down to F32 or F64

the image is to dim to tell if it is in focus. Should the entire image

be in focus when viewed through the camera if all movements are

correct? Would it be better to point the camera down and tilt the back

to get the entire image in focus?

I made my first contact prints. All prints are out of focus in the top half of the picture. They are landscape black and white. I have been using front tilt only. I focus 1/3 the distance from the foreground to the background. I'm trying to get the look of the entire picture in focus front to back. They seem to be in focus when looking through the camera. Any ideas.

 

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Tim..................

I have not printed any of them yet. I don't have an enlarger. I do have 5X7 paper. I have been reading (The Print). I'm goint to try some contact printing. Any help will be appreciated.

 

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Tim.........

How do I tell if my negatives are exposed and developed correctly? I am using a JOBO drum turning it by hand. I follow the developing process recomended in the Kodak darkroom book. My negatives have a lot of detail, but look dark. How dose a good negative look?

 

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Tim..........

Where are you at in South Florida? I may be moving to Clearwater on the West coast soon.

 

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Tim........

Thanks, but what wood tripod would be the best to purchase for a 4X5 or 5X7 wood camera? I have a book that recomends the zone6, I don't know much about this equipment.

 

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Tim.....

I have a Tachhara 4X5 but may go to a Deardorf 4X5, or something made a little better. I want to keep a camera that is light so I can carry it around in a bag or pack with all the other equipment. My question is what tripod is best for me, wood or aluminum? I want to be sure it is strong and can support the camera but not so heavy I can't carry it for the day.

 

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Tim.......

What is a dip and dunk tank? Where can I get directions to build one? A number of folks have made reference to this beeing a good method for development. There is a large camera show in Houston near my home next weekend. If I purchase an enlarger or cold light head, are they all interchangeable? Do you use filters with cold light heads for VC paper, or do you need a special cold light head? Do you replace the condensor with the cold light head?

 

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Thanks for the help............

Looking for information on the best books for three different subjects.

 

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1. I have Using the View Camera, Ansel Adams 1,2,3, and have ordered View Camera Technique. Are there any others that cover the use of the camera better?

 

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2. I have no books on setting up a dark room. What are the best selections on designing and selecting equipment? Need to understand the various types of equipment, there good and bad characteristics, especially enlargers, light source, jobo, the type of paper and chemicals the equipment is design to work with.

 

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3. I have no books on dark room technique. What are the best books on printing? I need to understand the methods and equipment needed for different papers and chemicals. I had planned on using VC paper and filters, Kodak.

 

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Thanks for the help...........

Thanks for the help and information on my selection of first camera and lens. I have a couple more questions. Can I get good results developing in trays till I can purchase a JOBO? Can the JOBO or an equivelent be bought used? Is the 45 MXT a condenser? Most of my reading leads me to believe that most darkroom techs are using a color enlarger. Can you get good results with out the added expense? If so, I have seen D2's available for very good prices. Are these good tools? They are not cold light heads. Is it best to have a cold light head in a condenser? Again thanks for your help in making these decisions.

 

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Tim.................

My interest is black&white landscape photography. I recently purchased a Tachara field camera. It is an older camera in good condition. After much research I purchased a Nikon 150W in like new condition. As well I purchased three film holders and a 3X loop. My intention is to keep the lens and purchase a better camera once I have enough knowledge to make a good decision. I will be developing in trays and making contact prints till I have enough knowledge to make a good decision as to the type of tank or system for development and enlarger to purchase. My questions are:

 

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Is this a good camera for B&W landscape, what would you recomend?

Is the 150W a good lens, what other lens would you recomend?

What B&W film would you use?

What developer?

What paper?

What method would you use to develop?

What enlarger would you recomend?

 

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Thanks for the advise.