tim_kimbler

Try the JOBO home page. I use the same set up your using. I follow

their recomendations. TMAX dose good for me, but I get better results

with TRIX. I use XTOL 1to1 developer.

I have the Kodak VC filters for my enlarger, 1-4 I think. Which one

would you recomend using? I have read that without a filter I get

grade 3 using my cold light, Aristo tube number 45 I think. The blue

filter, what number is it? Or will any blue filter work? As you can

tell I am new at this and have a lot to learn. I will be going to

Fort Davis, TX again in May and hope to get better photos than my last

trip.

The photographs were taken through out the day. Between 10:00 and

4:00. I use a Pentax 1-deg spot meter, and zone system. The film was

TMAX 100. I use XTOL developer in a 3010 drum, following the Kodak

development time. The paper is Kodak VC mat, printed with a cold

light. I think the photos show a true representation of the area.

In the prints the desert is a light gray, the trees are various shades

of black, the mountains are light gray and dark gray, the sky is light

not white. There just isn't any snap. I use a photo taken by John

Sekton in Yosemite as a reference to judge my photos against. It

is mat paper and has a wonderful glow on the rocks. Any way I've

learned alot in 1 year and I keep trying.

I took about 50 photos in the high desert country in southwest Texas. The area is mountainous desert country, and is beautiful. My pictures are somewhat flat of drab in apperance. What I'm trying to say, is the vista is mostly tan in color, and the photos don't show the beauty. Would toning the prints bring out the color seperation? Would a particular color filter have helped when photographing this type of terrain?

How much difference is there in an older Rodenstock Rodegon 150mm enlarger lens, compaired to a newer Rodenstock, Schnider, or Nikor?

I wanted to buy a Nikkor 150, but could not find one for the price I

wanted to pay. I bought a Rodenstock 150 in excellent condition. I

think it's about 20 years old. I believe the older Nikkor's are multi

coated, but perhaps not. I don't know if the Nikkor would have

printed better that the Rodenstock. I do know it cost half as much.

It is T-MAX film. I process for 6.5 minutes, (68) with XTOL using a

JOBO 3010 drum and a Beseler motor base. I use 100ml per sheet of

film, normaly 5 or 10 sheets at a time. I stop for 1 minute. I fix

for 5 minutes. I wash for 5 minutes. My reading makes me believe I

should be diluting the developer and processing for a longer time

frame.

My last two batches of negatives have a purple tone, not clear. Normaly they turn out clear. Any thoughts?

I want to buy a lens for my enlarger. Is it worth the extra cost to have a 150, or will a good quality 135 do? I have a Nikon lens for my camera, so I'm thinking about a Nikon enlarger lens. Is an older Nikon lens, the type you find used in the camera store, as good as the current model as long as it is in excellent condition?

I developed five sheets of film in my 3010 drum for the first time this weekend. I used the recomended amount of chemical. The result was that three of the sheets of film had a purple spot on one of the long sides close to the edge near the center. I find it curious that all three of the sheets of film had the spot near the same general area. I put the film in the drum per JOBO instructions. Any thoughts?

I bought an enlarger lens used. It has a small scratch on the edge of the rear glass. The scratch is so light, I did not even notice it when buying the lens. It is only noticeable when checked under strong light with close inspection. Will this scratch show up on the prints?

After much research I Bought a baby Deardorf in good condition. It needs cleaning up. Any thoughts on refinisning the camera? I have a 90mm and 210mm lens. Any problem using those lens's? Is the lack of front swing a big problem? I mostly do landscape photos.

I'm thinking about buying a used Wista at a local store. How dose this camer compaire to others?

I just bought a 90mm F4.5 Nikkor. It came today by mail. I bought it

for the brighter image. It looks like a great lens, can't wait to

try it out. Now I wonder if I got the best lens. I want sharp

images. How much difference is there in the image produced by the

F4.5/F8?

Thanks, I don't think I can get the newer camera, Special, in my price

range. Do the older models have the movements needed for what I want

to do? Most likely I will buy a camera from Shutterbug and won't be

able to see it in advance.

I'm trying to make a decision as to what camera to purchase. My reading has lead me to believe that a used Wisner Technical or Deardorf would be the best camera in my price range, around 1500.00 dollars. I have a 210mm and 90mm lens, and plan on purchasing a 360mm. I spend most of my time out doors shooting landscapes, but want to be able to do some still life and portriates. My first camera was a Tachihara and I now want something built better with in my price range. Any thoughts on which camera will be best for me, and will last many years?

I have a Tachihara 4X5 I am selling. I'm still reading, but have

allmost settled on a Wisner Technical or Deardorff. I will be using

4X5 film.

My reading suggests that most field cameras don't work well with a wide angle lens due to bellows or lens, distance to film. If this is so, is there any reason to purchase a Nikon 90mm-SW lens over a 105mm-W lens? The 90mm-SW image circle is 235mm the coverage is 105, the 105mm-W image circle is 155mm the coverage is 73. If you can't use movement why buy the 90mm-SW?

I use a JOBO 2500 tank on a Besler motor base for rotary developement of my film. It works good and I seldom have any problems. I am thinking about buying a 3010 drum. Every thing I read says it is better development. Jobo says you must use a processor with this drum. My questions are ,can I use the 3010 drum with my Besler motor base for rotary development? Will I truly get a better negative? What is the foot pump for? I don't see a lid on the drum in the picture I have. What keeps the chemicals in when its on its side? Is it worth the expense of 200+ dollars to change?

 

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Tim.......

Is there a web site where people post used large format equipment for sale?

What is the difference between a 135mm and 150mm lense? I have found a Nikon 135 for $180.00. I have not been able to find a 150mm Nikon for less than $300.00. I have found a lot of Raptar 162mm for around$50.00, are they any good? What other 150mm enlarger lense would be a good one in the $200/$300 range? When printing only a part of the negative would a 50mm or an 80mm be best? Dose raising the cold light do the same thing to print only a section of the negative?

 

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Tim............

I have a D2 with a variable condenser light source and a 4.5 inch condenser. I bought an Aristo Cold Light Head today. It looks new in the original box. It says it is a D2, W45. It is two parts, a top section with the light and an end cap with a cream plastic part. It looks like a hat. I have removed the light house and can not figure out how to install the cold light. There are no brackets on it. It looks as though it sets somewhere in side the original light house. All so what takes the place of the condenser housing to hold the negative in place? I don't believe I have the wrong cold light. It is clearly marked D2. Any one with directions on how to install?

Are replacement bulbs available for the Aristo and Omega coldlight heads? Can you use VC filters with these units, or must you use different paper grades? Is there any thing other than the bulb that may break on one of these heads?

Can you buy replacement bulbs for the Omega and Aristo cold light

heads? I would think that is the only thing that might be an issue or

defective. Can you use VC filters or do you use graded paper with

both?

 

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Tim.............

I just purchased a complete B&W darkroom setup at a garage-sell. The D-2 is set up for 35mm. It came with a 4 inch condencer and Nikon 50mm lense. What used coldlight head and 150mm lense would be good quality in the lower price range? The current lense board is flat. Do you need the 4.5 inch lense board with a cold light head? I got a drymount press that is about36X20. Any comments on the use of that item?