walter_a._muller

I've used Tmax-100 for years. The new Tmax has changed things a little. Develop in TMax RS, diluted 1:9, at 75 degrees for 8 minutes. Agitate at first for 30 seconds, then ten seconds each minute. Tmax100 is unforgiving on time and temperature, but is worth the extra attention. I live in the desert, and the 75 degrees works well here (near Phoenix, AZ).

Richard, Your exposures and the tonalities are very consistant. Well done. I wonder what film/exposure? and did you use a tripod? I'm just starting out on this sort of thing and would appreciate your comments. Walt

Trevor, Very nice. This is what I try to do in large format for 11x14 wall-hangings! The tonality is especially nice.

I'm a dedicated trophy hunter (since shooting my first 35mm in 1939!), photographically, with both large and medium format, and with an M7 and M6 (with a 75mm!). Since I'm short on trophies to post, I guess that makes me more of a lurker here in Fountain Hills, near Phoenix, Arizona, USA. Walt

Did it! Used an M7 w/ 75mm @ 1.4 on "Sue."

This from a long-time lurker, who is "outing" on this thread: I'll be watching, and now participating, in this forum as long as Marc, Al, Travis, Mike, Sandy & Ralph are here. I hated to see Dennis go! (Now I have to figure out how to post my picture!) Walt<div></div>

I much prefer Grant's.

If I were to frame the picture and wall mount it, I would prefer B&W. Color on the wall usually conflicts with the rest of the decor, or intrudes if it doesn't fit into the color scheme. I would prefer color if I were to put it in a book of photos to remember the occasion. Since I usually shoot in large format for wall mounting, I use only B & W. With color, I would have to rethink the whole shoot.

I recently bought a 532/16 but have only run one roll through it so far. (It came out fine.) It is in really good shape, produced after WWII with a Tessar 2.8, but uncoated. I bought it for nostalgic purposes: I used one for a few weeks in 1946. I was just out of the Marine Corp, and was hired to take a picture of everyone who deplaned (down a ladder) at San Francisco airport. And I had a lot of time between planes. The pictures all came out great, even though I hardly knew how to use it. Gee, how time flys! Walt

Last year, in response to Sandy's request for subscribers on the

Leice forum, I sent in my $20. An icon promptly appeared after my

name on my input. This year my icon disappeared. How long does a

contribution's effect last? Is it calendar year to calendar year? Or

is it from the time the money is sent in? Or what? Is it for a year?

Walt Muller (tlminvn@aol.com)

It is easy to focus critical areas under low light if you hold up an LED light at the focal point. This, of course, assumes that this isn't a candid shot! Sometimes just a barcode strip will work

I just sent my check. I couldn't in good conscience keep lurking here after such an appeal. I enjoy the site very much and almost feel as though I know a lot of you now. I've been following this site for weeks now, and have just obtained an M6 and an M7, new 35/f:2 and a 75. Stand by to see if I can produce anything worth posting. Walt

A great thread!Ilive in Fountain Hills, Arizona - near Phoenix. I'm long retired (78) and have been taking photography seriously only in the past three years, mostly 4x5 in association with a very popular large-format class at a local college. The instructor is also a Leica enthusiast! But I have on order an M6 and a new M7, a 75 lux and an f:2 35 cron. I enjoy using my darkroom, though I do dabble in digital. I've met numerous photography people here through the class (I've been attending it for over three years, but some have been attending it for over six years. Something new every class!)I am a retired nuclear development administrator, single, but with six great children and their families(from former marriage!), very healthy except for my dang knees, which should be replaced! I look forward to sharing my shots when I get my Leicas.

Tim, Good morning from near Phoenix. While I was sleeping, this thread has really grown! I don't know how critical the ASA is; I just use the 80 number and go on from there. I get pretty good consistency with my exposures. I usually meter for zone 3 and check what is included in the zones above to see if a normal development will work. I have been using Tmax 100 for several years, and have even used TMY 400 at 320 and it was spot on for a night shot. But, I must admit, I have a package of TriX 400 on order to see if I can take advantage of the greater latitude it is rumored to offer! Until I can get the film checked with a desitometer, I'll go with 320, 80% of 400. I'm attaching (I hope) my night shot. Walt<div></div>

At our large-format class at Scottsdale Community College, the instructor(Rod Klukas)starts his students out with TMax 100. He also checks individual camera, lens and exposure meter combinations for each student's personal EI by a desitometer reading (film base plus fog)of their exposed and developed film. In his years of teaching, he has yet to read an EI of 100. Usually the EI is 50, though mine is 80. He also reads the necessary development time. This procedure is very common, and is adviseable for the optimum results with any film.

And I know that the picture isn't level!

Walt

Here is a shot of the bridges across Lake Tempe in Arizona. This was my first attempt at a night shot.<div></div>

Hi John, I like to explore certain subjects, then, after tiring of that, move on to something else. Right now I'm intriqued by night shots! It's amazing how much detail can be recorded at dusk/night by the light of street lamps, bridge lights, and even moonlight. I also love to take tight head shots of my grandchildren and see how much extraordinary detail I can get, especially in the eyes. (I can't do this with their mothers!) I also look for interesting patterns on weathered walls. If there isn't much contrast, then I would develop it for an extraordinary long time to maximize any contrast. I've heard of going for two hours to maximize an otherwize two-stop pic. But I'm not into abstracts, and I don't think I'll ever go there. Just thoughts. I could use help from the forum too for those days when my vizualization is at a low ebb, but my energy level high!

 

Walt

I should have expanded on my suggestion to install a replacement mm scale. The scale I'm talking about is just placed on using the sticky back. It is good for any lens. This allows you to focus far, note the index on the scale;then focus near, note the index number. If using 4x5, multiply the total mm's by 5. That is the f stop that wil provide the necessary DOF, after you set the front standard to half way between the two noted index numbers. The scale is less than $6.

I installed a separate mm index scale. These scales are available at Photomark in Phoenix, and probably everywhere else. It is much more useable than the one supplied as original on the Wista.

Walt Muller