v._b.

Jurgen Kuschnik in Germany.

 

http://www.photo.net/neighbor/view-one.tcl?neighbor_to_neighbor_id=187385

 

He did the shutter repair of my Rolleiflex 3.5F a month ago.

I have two Rolleiflex 3.5F - for one of them I purchased new Maxwell screen, another camera is with the old screen. It's day and night. I'm very satisfied with Maxwell.

Ken,

 

you are right, probably I was too emotional after getting better than expected item from KEH. I had mixed experiences on ebay, but always good with KEH (limited number of purchases though). I bought >40 items on ebay for myself and my friends, I had some good experiences (but not unexpected, because I do a lot of "homework" before the decision), on the other hand there were many situations when I thought - "well, almost as described..." 180mm lens I sent back was "excellent with accurate shutter at all speeds", but 1 sec was between 2 and 2,5 sec and glass quite dirty. Seller sent a refund and I still left the positive feedback, but did not have much pleasure in all this. So I may say that my statement reflects the average of my experiences - over/under or as expected. I'm not saying - don't buy on ebay, go to KEH or anything like this. What I'm saying is that after all these experiences I have different level of confidence doing business on ebay and KEH

bargain grade 180mm lens purchased from KEH at a bargain price just arrived. on ebay they rate them "mint minus"... and the "excellent" one bought on ebay had to be sent back...

bargain grade at a bargain price... I have just took the risk and ordered 180mm lens from KEH for my Mamiya TLR based on your bad experience... we'll see...

One of the main things to check is the lens - especially if it's accurate at slow speeds. I have just sent back one Mamiya lens purchased on *bay - 1 sec was rather 2 sec (advertised as all speeds accurate)...

That really helps, thanks! By the way - any personal experience with any of them?

The shutter of my 3.5F is sticky at slow speeds, so I'm looking for a reliable

repairman to CLA my camera. There's nothing available where I live, so I would

send anywhere in EU, any recommendations?

 

Thanks

Well, that's what I'm afraid of... But luckily, I can still shoot ok in autofocus mode.

I've purchased Contax AX recently (used to shoot with 167MT) because I was

tempted to try autofocus with manual lenses. Overall I'm very pleased with the

camera, but I noticed one issue which I'm not sure is a problem or my lack of

knowledge how to use the camera (I'm still looking for a user manual).

Shooting in single autofocus mode is ok, but when I tried to shoot in manual

focus mode after shutter fires mirror remains lifted and does not go back. I

need to switch between various focusing modes and switch camera on/off before

mirror returns back. Any ideas what's wrong?

 

P.S. I know it's not medium format topic - I really could not find where could

I post non leica, non canon, non nikon, non sony question...

Rafael,

 

I called CRR Luton and the person also suggested to do a slight fine tuning at home first before spending money on shipping. He explained in details what should I do. So I'll try it carefully...

I just look at my excel summary - on the average the deviation with 35mm Summicron is a bit larger - 0.5 cm or so. Infinity looks ok.

I was suspecting this for some time already. I noticed that my close up shots

are not as sharp as I expect, especially when the lens is wide open. Shooting

only 35 mm lens in good light I did not notice this before, but when I

purchased Elmarit 90mm it became quite obvious - something is wrong. So I did

a "yardstick" test. I was shocked - it's 2-3cm off. I shot both 35 and 90mm

lenses, at three various distances (3 shots at each distance) and results are

consistent - real focus point is some 2-3 cm (around one inch) behind what I

saw when I focused.

So here are my questions:

1) will simple alignment at reputable repair shop will fix it for reasonable

price or could there be something serious and very expensive;

2) any reputable repair shop in Europe recommendations (English speaking)?

Unfortunately it's not available where I live.

 

Thanks

Nope, 3.5F takes bay II, that?s for sure, I have two of those cameras.

 

http://www.rolleiclub.com/cameras/tlr/info/all_TLR.shtml

I have recently purchased two filters for my Rolleiflex 3.5F. They were supposed to

be Bay II size, but when I returned home and checked it on my camera they were

too small (some 5mm smaller than my other bay II filters). I cannot return it to the

shop because I purchased it during a foreign trip, so I will sell them on ebay but I

need to know which bayonete is this. It does not say on the filter itself (just

letter "R", my Bay II says RII) and it?s about 30mm in size (inside diameter). I

assume this is Bay I, can someone confirm this assumption, I could not find sizes

in mm in any of Rollei info pages.

The time came to replace my old PC and of course monitor. I've been using CRT

for many years, but now this type of monitors is not available any more in the

market I live. So I have to go for LCD. I only had experience previously with

a simple laptop monitor which I found inferior to my old CRT.

I was offered LG model L1953 TR Flatron. Any experience with this?

 

P.S. I'm not professional and don't need it for "high end" work, but I do a

lot of traditional BW scanning and BW tones do matter.

It seems that 7dayshop.com only ships within UK. I used to purchase from silverprint in London (www.silverprint.co.uk), prices are similar (at least for higher quantities) and they ship to other countries.

And yes, one more thing - you don't want to blow out the sky, why not to use some filters?

I had the same question before going there in August. I used Ilford HP5 and FP4. I'd say HP5 was better suited, but there was a lot of sun those days, so FP4 was also fine in many situations.<div></div>

Thanks for this advice. It looks I fixed it as advised, but I'll see with the next film...

I have noticed this problem already on the second roll of the film in the row

(but never happened before) - in the mid of the roll (at frame #15 or so)

suddenly film is stuck and advance lever does not move. With the first film I

probably applied a bit too much force and I damaged film perforation so I had

to rewind half empty film because lever was moving, but without winding the

film. With the second film was the same story - at frame # 15 film is stuck.

Then I did a small trick - I did rewind film back a frame or so and then

everything was normal again, advance lever moving fine. Any ideas what's wrong?

 

Valdas

That's what I was thinking - maybe just loose screws somewhere (I did not know it's just under the leather). I will check this before sending for repair.

It's rather movement to the sides, not forward-backward. I have two cameras, so I can compare. One of them does not have any movement at all and the one in question has some movements to the sides when I gently try to move it with a very little of force.

Well, none of the problems that you described - lens board seems to move just fine, focusing at infinity is also ok (could not see any problems on pictures as well), but the board itself has a very small (I'm not sure how to describe the degree) movement to sides (when I grip it, it's just not dead fixed, it moves maybe a fraction of millimeter, but it's enough to feel the movement).

I've just recently noticed that the front part of my camera (the one that

moves when focusing) became a little bit loose. Is it serious? Can it be fixed

easily or I need a qualified repairman to loot at it?

 

Valdas