amol

<p>Good information from the previous posts. If traveling to Europe you should consider the Canon 10-18mm, it would match up nicely with what you already have. If you are happy with the quality of the 18-55 and 55-250, then I would just stick with them, and add the 10-18. That way you have a whole range (10mm-250mm) covered by 3 lenses. This wide angle option might come in handy for European Architecture and landscape type photography...perhaps a "selfie" here or there :)</p>

<p>One point... for most bus tours, you are not going to want to waste time fiddling with lenses...you might not have time. They usually stop at a location, for a set amount of time, then you are off again. This is when the convenience of a zoom lens comes in handy. This is also true even if you were not on a bus tour... </p>

<p>I took a 50mm f/1.8 on a 3wk backpacking trip to Europe....I used it twice...(but I had my Tamron 17-50 f/2.8) Your style might be different than mine, but I probably wouldn't take the 50mm f/1.8 again. </p>

<p>So, to clarify you received the $650, but did not get a signed contract? Big mistake on your part... but especially on the clients part. </p>

<p>Also, how is it that you already spent the $650? You should never, spend the deposit until after the photo shoot; unless, you already have money reserved to cover the deposit. Plus, do you not have $650 in your business or personal account? If you can't cover $650, you need re-think your business plan. Actually, with everything in this post, you need to re-think your business plan, in general. Also, 1-3months is completely unacceptable to return her deposit, 1 week, maybe 2weeks tops, she should have her money back. If you are that tight on finances, and don't have the money, then you should have kept the $650 deposit. She is clearly tight on money (apparently you too, so you should be able to empathize, but are not), what makes you think she could/should wait 1-3 months for a refund?</p>

<p>Sorry, if the above sounds harsh, but you totally need to re-think how you are running your photography business. You need to do more research on how this business works. I only do photography as a side-business, (have a regular full-time job) and even then, I spent multiple hours researching contracts, money handling, and equipment issues before I started charging people. These type of businesses practices (going back on your initial agreement, and not refunding people for 1-3months) give photographers a bad reputation in general. </p>

<p>I have both, the Canon 15-85, and Tamron 17-50. They both have their place. I use the 17-50 for professional work portraits, and weddings(especially in low-light churches, but also use primes). But, at a wedding reception I use the 15-85, since it gives more range for the dance floor and fast group shots, or close-up shots. In general, when with my family or when traveling I have the 15-85 mounted on the camera, most of the time; I just love the range. It has Image-Stabilization, so that helps in low-light too.</p>

<p>Since you really want it for "Travel/kids/landscape" purposes, I would get the 15-85 (I haven't done too much macro with this lens...so not sure about that). You already have a nice set of primes, if low-light or portrait situation arose. If you were doing more portrait work, I'd recommend the 17-50.</p>

<p>I do have flash mounted most of the time when shooting indoors (regardless of lens). You can get a used 430EX (Model I) for cheap, or 430EXII for around $280. </p>

<p>Also you need to be clear on how many 8x10s you will give her, you didn't specify on your post. But, you should have with her. You maybe thinking 2-3 8x10s, she might be thinking 6-10.</p>

<p>Another thought about not getting paid. Technically, your scenario #1, you could have taken the client to small claims court, depending on the amount they owed; it may or may not be "worth it". If you brought the contract and completed photos, you (in theory) would have a strong case. Other "iffy" option is an online gallery (or a CD) with photos in low-resolution and large watermark across every photo, showing the client the product. Hopefully, enticing them to pay for what they ordered. </p>

<p>I would just be <strong>consistent</strong>. Stick with the 2 day before payment. Don't back-pedal too much, then you will get taken advantage of. </p>

<p>In regards to your question about payment. If people order prints/books, other products. Then I would ask for complete payment on the day of the photoshoot. In fact, I usually give a DVD/CD with images (usually don't do print packages or other products), and even then I ask for full payment after the photoshoot is over (it is in my contract: 50% deposit to hold the date, and remainder on the day of the photoshoot). Worst case scenario, they don't have the money on the day of the shoot, I would explain they need to mail me the payment before they get photos. You could even specify that you won't start to process/work-on the photos until after the payment is received. (basically, won't devote time to the project until full payment...I wouldn't word it that to the client). They don't pay you the remainder, then yes you did waste some time, but at least you haven't wasted more time or money on the project, any further. I would not order prints or products unless I have full payment. But, like I said above, I ask for full payment after I do the shoot, not before... but everyone works differently. I'm sure other people's methods may work for them. I like my method, seems to create less problems.</p>

<p>I agree that you seem to be in the wrong... Her being late with email responses is not a reason to ask for early payment. You had already agreed (either verbally or via email) to take payment 2days prior, NOW you are are going back on you initial agreement, thus creating problems/"drama".</p>

<p>Also I agree with Steve, that asking for full payment before doing the shoot is not how I run my photography business, but thats up to you. I would personally not hire a photographer that asks for full payment 2weeks (or 2days prior to the shoot)... maybe for a wedding...but even then. Photographers usually get full payment when they actually show up to the photo shoot, and usually after it is over, or when they deliver the final product (prints or CD). But, if that works for you, then continue. But, I think you are going to have future problems with that business practice.</p>

<p>Sidenote:<br>

Bob,</p>

<p>Thanks for the great review. I've been looking at the Tamron for a travel zoom; especially for those times a 70-200mm bright white lens isn't practical, or I need more reach. I think, the L for professional work, and Tamron for travel/more reach.</p>

<p>I found a couple reviews for the Tamron, but definitely appreciate and value your opinion.</p>

<p>I read your title, my first thought was $25... I see Bob actually researched it...</p>

<p>The time to sell film equipment (unless it's rare vintage stuff), was like 7yrs ago... and even then... I would just keep it now.</p>

<p>I have the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 (non-VC), I love the lens. I use it professionally (weddings and portraits). It works fine, and is sharp. Only advantage the Canon has is the Auto focus speed (USM motor). But honestly I also have the Canon 15-85mm USM, yes the autofocus is smoother and quieter, but I'm not sure it's that much faster. The Tamron can keep up at a wedding... I have no regrets saving the extra $500-600, and putting that towards another lens ... and/or even a flash</p>

<p>Honestly, I wouldn't use any of those lenses. Maybe the 28-80, but it's not really wide enough on the 40D crop sensor. Plus, if I remember correctly it doesn't have the best image quality,or AF speed. Its field-of-view really works better for 35mm or full-frame.</p>

<p>If you have some money, the best travel lens I would recommend is the Canon 15-85mm IS USM. In fact I would sell options 1-3, to buy the 15-85. Otherwise, I recommend a 18-55 IS USM. This equals the 28-90mm range on the 40D.</p>

<p>Of course, maybe your shooting style is in the telephoto range, so the 75-300 might work, but still too limiting in range.</p>

<p>Good suggestions above. To add:<br>

Be sure to take <strong>plenty </strong>of memory cards, and a few (2-3) spare batteries. You also may want to consider bring a small point&shoot as a back-up, or for times you don't want to carry the DSLR... I usually carried my DSLR. But a couple times, going out to a quick casual dinner at night, it really was cumbersome. Plus, the new P&Ss have some decent video modes for the quick causal impromptu video... not a major thing. But occasionally with moving things, it captured fun moments (train/bus rides, people performing etc.)</p>

<p>Take care, and safe travels!</p>

 

<p>Hey,</p>

<p>In case anyone was wondering/waiting. The Canon S100 (successor to Canon S95) has been announced and previewed. Looks nice.<br>

Apparently comes in black, and new metallic look.</p>

<p>http://www.dpreview.com/previews/canons100/</p>

<p>Take care,<br /> Amol</p>

<p>I agree with Eric. The Lowepro Fastpack 250 or 200 might be the way to go. I used my Fastpack 250 while traveling in several countries/cities in Europe. It worked great.</p>

<p>Does this happen when you are outdoors and in good light? Or if you are not using flash?</p>

<p>What you describe sounds typical if you are shooting in really dark room, or outdoors at night. Especially if you are shooting in "Full Auto or Portrait". The camera will flicker the flash, in order to achieve focus, if it is unable to "lock" onto an object it will blink the AF indicator (meaning unable to lock).</p>

<p>If this is happening in the sunny day-outdoors, then you have a problem with the camera. If it is happening indoors in low-light. Then it is normal, you need to work on using other settings and possibly an external flash.</p>

<p>Jenni,<br>

I think the best way to start is to do some free practice sessions for your friends. Ask for some feedback (honest feedback, friends can be too nice). Perhaps post some samples here and ask for feedback.</p>

<p>Honestly, I don't think a small camera will work... you won't have the image quality or <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bokeh">bokeh</a>, but perhaps your friends won't care for the practice sessions. If you are going to get paid for a photography job, then you will a need a DSLR/SLR... in fact if you are really getting paid you should have back-up equipment.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have a 15-85mm great travel/candid lens, because of the zoom range.</p>

<p>But, instead of selling a kidney, I also have a Tamron 17-50 f/2.8. (*Not VC). In fact, I owned the Tamron 17-50 first, but then like most, I needed a little more range. I know it "duplicates" the zoom range. But, I also shoot paid jobs, and I'm fine having a duplicated range.</p>

<p>Anyway, so I have the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 for low light situations and "professional" work. And then the Canon 15-85 as a back-up, and for family/travel/candid stuff. Just a thought.</p>

<p>The Tamron runs about $450.</p>

<p>I agree with Bill. The LX5 is probably a good bet. Most people compare the LX5 against the Canon S95, and/or Canon G11. If size is a concern, I would go with the S95. If not, then I would stick with the LX5. The LX5 allows for focusing and zooming with in video mode (if that is important to you), has a 24mm wide-angle lens (Canon is 28mm), and the aperture is a little wider.</p>

<p>You might also want to check out the the newer Olympus XZ-1, it has a 28-122mm equiv., F1.8-2.5 lens. But, it is newer, not sure if all the bugs have been worked out yet.</p>

<p>I'm currently trying to choose P&S, for the days that I don't want to carry my Digital SLR. It is between the Canon S95 or the LX5. LX5 is not very pocketable... but I love the specs. I love the wider 24mm perspective when I shoot... your style might be different. Also, I kind of want a decent video feature (I have a toddler), it would be nice for a casual video clip of the kid. The fact that the LX5 zooms while recording is a big thing, especially when you have a baby/kids that are always moving around.</p>

<p>Also, I did take my telephoto lens (Canon 55-250), when I went, but I found I rarely used it. Of course, your shooting style might be different. Plus, now with the 15-85, I would <em>probably </em>NOT take my Canon 55-250. <br>

From what you describe: "mainly landscape, architectural, street, candid shots, and some shots on the ship during the shows and dinner." I would say that you don't need the 70-200, the 15-85 should be fine for most shots.</p>

<p>I agree. The 15-85mm is a great travel lens (meaning the range it covers); add a 30mm f/1.4 or 28/24mm F/2.8.</p>

<p>Having said that, last time I went to Europe (Rome, Paris, London etc). I took my Tamron 17-50 f/2.8. But I didn't have the Canon 15-85. Now, that I own both the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 and the Canon 15-85 USM I am not sure which one I would take. I would probably take both... the Tamron 17-50 is not too big. The 15-85 would probably be on the camera most of the time, and I would pull out the 17-50 f/2.8 for low-light (church/museum) shots, where flash is not allowed.</p>

<p>Of course, with the newer T2i, you could just boost the ISO... I would try not to, but in a pinch; coupled with the Image Stabilization of the 15-85, it would work.</p>

<p>If the charger already has US style plugs (two flat pins), you should be fine without an adapter. Most Genuine Canon Chargers are rated for both US and Europe. 110-240V ...this should cover you, for Voltage.</p>

<p>From the sounds of it, your Canon chargers should be fine. Just make sure anything else (laptop, MP3 players, have the correct voltage (110V), then you just need a adapter to change the pins for USA.</p>

<p>Besides, if you get here, and find you need something; you can stop by a local "Radio Shack" and buy a voltage/adapter set for like $30-50.</p>

<p>Amit,</p>

<p>Your 580EX and lenses (17-40, and 70-200) should all work with the 7D.</p>

<p>If you had third-party lenses or Flashes (Sigma or Tamron) then you might worry, but even then... the newer lenses seem to have less compatibility problems.</p>

<p>1) Tamron (or Canon) 17-50 <strong>F/2.8</strong>- this is a must for museums/churches or other places that do not allow flashes.<br>

2) Canon 55-250 IS USM or a Canon 70-200<br>

Then, depending on your shooting style:<br>

3) Canon 15-85 USM IS for the outdoors and decent lighting conditions, general walk around lens, plus it gives you an extra 2mm on the wide end.</p>

<p>William,<br>

I was following this post. Mostly because I'm considering a 70-200 f2.8 (IS or non... not sure yet).</p>

<p>One thing I noticed the OP mentions: "Canon EF 55-200mm f/4.5-5.6 II USM Lens" this lens does not have IS on it. It is an older lens. The current 55-<strong>250</strong> has IS. (this new lens adds 50mm and IS.) Both are still lower end lenses. However, I thought I would point this out. Because, you mentioned the IS feature being the reason the OP pulled off the 1/40th. However, it seems they have steady hands and no IS. <strong>If</strong> they are reporting the correct lens ("Canon EF 55-200mm f/4.5-5.6 II USM Lens") it is not the one with IS.</p>

<p>Anyway, I still agree that the IS feature would be nice. But it did not contribute to the reason the OP got the 1/40. I'm sure it would help... but with a 40D/50D/7D and 2.8, I'm thinking you can crank the ISO, and skip the IS... maybe... Basically buy the f/2.8 non-IS, and put the extra $500-600 you save, towards a higher end camera... or the 85mm f1.8.<br>

William, I always learn a great deal from your posts. Keep up the good work.</p>

<p>Take care,<br>

Amol</p>

<p>If you don't want primes, but want more reach. The only other lens that comes to mind is a Canon 70-200 F/2.8. It is over your budget, about $1300. You might find a used one for slightly cheaper, but they hold their value well. So, I doubt you'll find one for less then $1000.<br>

There is a Sigma 50-150 f/2.8, I think it is about $800.</p>

<p>There are backpacks that will hold all your things (clothes, laptop, camera, lenses); they are larger than typical backpacks. I have not seen a dedicate camera bag that will do all this. But you can buy a hiking pack, or an oversized laptop-backpack, then add a padded insert for the camera equipment<br /> <br /> There are problems with a <strong>one bag</strong> approach, in my experience/opinion:<br /> 1)Let's say, you have everything packed into large backpack, and you see a photo opportunity. Now you have to take that back-pack off, and get to your camera. If you packed it well, (padded camera insert on top, near a zipper) you might be able to get access to the camera fast enough. You might not.<br /> 2) Let say you get into a town. You check in at a hotel/hostel. Are you going to carry you larger than usual bag with you? Leave the clothes in the hotel, and bring the camera and lenses. You are now, carrying a large pack, that is no longer packed properly (camera insert is at the bottom of the pack), with only a camera/lenses in it. After a while, it will start to get in the way. Especially in cramped shops, churches, museums. (Oh and some museums will not let you carry a large bag inside, you have to check it). Weight may not be an issue, but the general size.</p>

<p>I've been to Europe twice, 3weeks each time. I find that a 2 bag approach works better for me. I take a dedicated camera backpack (Lowepro Orion Trekker or the Lowepro Fastpack 250), which I wear in the front. Then I take hiking pack (internal frame, Gregory). That was all my travel stuff (clothes, shower-stuff, etc). Now, when on the move. I can still easily get to my camera (especially with the Lowepro Fastpack wearing it in the front). Of course, I might look a little silly... but, I can move fast with this setup. Once I get to the hotel. I leave my hiking pack/clothes there. And I take the Lowepro Fastpack 250 out with me, it holds the camera equipment, easily accessible, and has room for laptop, jacket, snacks.</p>

<p>Another route, I recently thought about. Bring a messenger bag that can fold/roll away. It folds up for storage. You could take a large back-pack/hiking pack, with the camera in a padded insert. Then, when you get to a city/town, put the padded insert into the messenger bag. Only problem with that, depending on the style of messenger bag. It's hard to carry anything else, unless you put things on top the camera.</p>

<p>Here is the padded insert I have. There are plenty of other brands too:<br /> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/509016-REG/Tenba_638_251_Pro_Digital_2_0_Photo.html</p>

<p>You can check out some of my photos from Europe in my gallery:<br /> http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=924726<br /> http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=501312</p>