stu_rosenbaum1

I can get 72 exposures. I pull the film out, re-saw it on my bandsaw (in pitch dark, no less), then, re-insert it into two canisters.

Works like a charm.

Seeing that you're not happy with Canon lenses (one of your 7 threads today), why not buy more?

Makes the most sense to me.

Martian,

Have you ever tried to use your camera (or any camera for that matter)?

I may be wrong, but I believe 1/128 power is basically 7 stops less exposure than full power (the other stops being, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, and 1/64). Full power is the "correct" exposure amount for the conditions you're shooting in. If you shoot at 1/128, you'll be 7 stops lower - for the affect you're trying to accomplish.

Like I said, I may be wrong on this.

Anthony Peterson,

Sorry. Wasn't trying to imply that you were telling Gideon to be dishonest.

Just wanted to make sure all the facts get stated in a potential ad. I've seen too many deceptive ads on eBay, that's all.

Didn't mean for my comment to come across that you were one of the guilty ones.

It's probably too late to suggest this, but I give all my lenses swimming lessons before I put them to regular use, to avoid a mishap like yours. Sorry, couldn't resist.

On a serious note, I would try and bring it to a reputable repair shop and see what they can do with it. As far as selling it on eBay in a "NY minute" as another poster suggested, be fair, and at least let the bidders know of its condition.

C.G.,

You said:

"Probably overkill from a flash photography perspective but, I have two 550EX's and an ST-2."

Why is that overkill? Canon specifically sells it this way as a "kit". Just curioius. I realize that could just be marketing hype (in big companies? Nahhhh. LOL.) Just wondering why you think it's overkill. I would think it would help in creating interesting effects.

Stu.

Sorry - didn't mean to change Bob's name for him.

Should have been "Bob Atkins' site" (not, "Bob Atkin's site").

Just getting this correction in here before the grammar police ticket me!

Yes, it is true, that the best way to blur the background is to shoot as wide open as possible. However, if you're too close to the subject, part of the subject will also be blurred.

If you play around with the Depth of Field calculator on Bob Atkin's site (http://bobatkins.com/photography/technical/dofcalc.html#calc), you'll get a clearer picture (no pun intended) of how far you may want to stand from your subject, depending on the aperture, and the focal length of your lens.

Hope that helps.

Stu.

Mark U said, "Chuck - I've lived in 3 different Latin American countries, and visited 3 others. Have you?"

Well, I've lived in 4 states (NY, NH, CA and FL), but I wouldn't generalize to say that New Yorkers have more fashion sense than Floridians. All depends on the exact area. Compare Utica, NY with Boca Raton, FL for instance. Now, compare Ocala, FL with Manhattan, NY.

Basically, what I'm saying is, you get in trouble when you generalize. Perhaps we should ask Anthony exactly where in South America he is moving. It's a pretty big island.

Not trying to start a fight - this is a serious inquiry:

Isn't this the same thing as USA film costing more than "grey market" film, and it's the same exact stuff?

I too am baffled/amused/confused etc. at how seriously some people get over the ratings.

The thing I think is interesting is why there are two categories with which to rate. Why not just one category? How often does one see a set of ratings that differed by more than one? In most ratings listings, you'd be hard pressed to find 1 in 20. Usually, the nubers are identical. So, I wonder, why not just offer up one category? I understand the intent of the forum developers for the two categories. But, let's face it. It's not working.

I could take a picture of a woman giving birth to a flaming porcupine on the floor of an igloo during a hemerhoid attack (using infrared film, a neutral density filter, and cross processed no less). Who wouldn't give that a 7 for originality, right? But, suppose the exposure was horrible. I would deserve a 1. So, of course, most scores would end up being 1/2, 2/1, 2/3, 2/2, and throw in a 6/7 for S's and G's.

OK, I'm done, LOL.

Regarding Maureen's suggestion to shoot slides...

Can you still just shoot negatives and request that the processor not do any adjusting, or is it the machine that is automatically adjusting it anyway?

Not to hijack the thread, but is the same true for Fuji NHP, Kodak Supra, Kodak Portra, Ilford Pan, Agfa Vista, and other pro grade negative films that have been refrigerated and about 6-12 months past expiration? They've been refrigerated since purchased around 2 years ago.

Thanks!

Stu.

I have the 550-EX Speedlite as well, and use it with Energizer rechargeable Ni-mh's. Before I was to use it at a party this weekend, I tried to drain the batteries. Over 300 flashes (full power), and I finally gave up. Well, actually, my wife threatened bodily injury, and that was reason enough to quit.

I see some members have suggested getting the Energizer rechargeables (charger plus 4 AA batteries) at Target or Wal-Mart for $20. If you're a mamber of Sam's Club, they have the same charger plus 8 batteries for the same price. This way, you'l always have a spare set in your bag ready to go at any time.

I know, I know, how many times must we answer this? But, alas, I

have some specifics, which may or may not change your answer.

A friend of my wife's is having a birthday party. This is going to

be a small gathering (maybe 15-20 guests), in a hotel room (a suite I

should say). I have a Canon EOS 3 and Speedlite 550EX. Most, if not

all, of the shots will be candid. I'm sure my wife, who loves firing

squad pictures, will request the usual "get one of me and ______"

or "Stu, take one of me and ______". I will have all lenses with me,

but figure to take most shots with the 50/1.4 and 100/2.0. I'd like

to take most of my shots with a photojournalistic approach. I also

have a 28/1.8 lens, but don't plan on taking many group shots.

Now, onto the question....

1) Since it's a hotel room at night, it will probably be very dimly

lit. My tastes are to shoot in Av mode (as wide open as possible

without blurring out the person the subject is speaking with) and as

little flash as possible. If I'm shooting in E-TTL flash mode, I

know the flash will be set at enough to just light the subject.

That�s fine. I am curious as to what speed film is recommended in

these situations. I have not been hired to take these pictures.

It�s just for my own practice, but I don't want to waste my time

either and find out that all the pictures turned out awful because I

had the wrong speed film. I don't plan on getting the prints

developed at a pro lab - again, this is just practice, and I can't

afford to spend over $10/roll if the pictures turn out lousy. Can I

get away with shooting 100-speed film with the above conditions? I

am not a fan of Max 400 or 800 and don't want to shoot Portra 400 and

have it developed at Sam's Club either. Am I SOL or is Gold 100

possible here? Sorry for the long post, but wanted to make sure I

got my question explained.

Thanks!

P.S. I had a very bad woodworking accident 8 weeks ago (nearly lost

some fingers on my left hand), and the bills are mounting. Therapy

is $$$$, and the last thing I need to do is spend more on

processing. If I do, I think my wife will kill me. (Just kidding'

about the last part). Thanks again.

With regard to bodies, this is from Canon's website:

http://www.usa.canon.com/html/support/slrfaq.html#1

Thanks for the tips everyone.

I was looking at the Bogen site, and all the tripods are now Manfrotto or Gitzo. Seems Bogen is the holding company. I will definitely check out the pirces at Adorama.

Thanks again!

Stu.

My old setup (read: 10 year "beginner") was a Rebel II-S and some

basic zoom lenses (35-80mm f4.0/5.6 and 75-300mm f4.0/5.6).

I finally upgraded to an EOS 3, with the power booster PB-E2, and

some prime lenses (28/1.8, 50/1.4 & 100/2.0).

In the past, I was able to get by with a cheap (around $40-50) tripod

I picked up at Ritz. I believe it was Quantaray, though since I'm at

work and don't have it with me, I'm not sure of the model. Anyway,

this tripod always sufficed to hold my camera and lense (even the

bigger 75-300) steady. With my new gear, I'm not so sure how much I

trust this tripod. The lenses aren't any heavier, in fact, they're

probably much lighter. However, with the PB-E2 powering the new

camera, it's quite heavy. I'd hate to find out the hard way that the

tripod shouldn't have been used to support this heavy setup.

Have any of you converted from a similar setup and did you need to

upgrade your tripod? If so, can you recommend an affordable tripod?

Affordable to me (relative to tripods) means less than $200.

Thanks in advance for all your help!

Stu.