fulvio_n.

Thanks Dean, I should have tried that... But it's too late, I used a drill to drill two tiny holes in the black rim edge and then a spanner wrench to unscrew the cell. It worked and I did no damage to the glass. I painted the two tiny holes with black enamel.

There were no notches. I done it by the hard way. Drilled two holes in the rim to allow clearance for a spanner. It came out easily. With some black enamel the holes will almost disappear. Thanks for the help-

My lens is like this one pictured here:

 

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost-classifieds/data/10/rodenstock-ysarex127mm_1.jpg

 

the front cell is black edged, nested in that silver ring with "Polaroid Pathfinder" inscriptions...

 

Should press on the black edge and turn the shutter body? I have tried something similar, without a car tire... Unfortunately my fingers slip and the whole thing turns on itself...

I have a Rodenstock Ysarex 127mm f4.7 in a Prontor SVS shutter. I want to remove

the lens rear and front cells (glasses) from the shutter. I was able to unscrew

the rear cell, but I have no clue how to unscrew the front cell. No threads

visible, no notches, no screws... I tried unscrewing it using pressure with my

fingers but it doesn't move.

 

Any idea?

 

thanks

I have too a lens in such conditions (a 127mm ysarex in its original prontor shutter). I was able to unscrew the rear element, but I have no clue on how to unscrew the front element, it's too stiff and there are no notches or screws. How do I remove it from the shutter? thanks

Hi! I'm really interested in the manual... But how much specific is about the Vue-Focus rangefinder system? I own a Buch Pressman generic camera manual and doesn't tell very much about it. I'm from Italy - have you got the scans of the manual? It would be cheaper and faster than mailing it. Thank you very much!

Hi!

 

I'm the proud owner of a Rolleiflex 2.8 D. It is a great camera for

portrait and street photography. The only things I've found a little

frustrating are the lack of an internal meter and the fixed "standard"

angle of view.

 

There are situations where I would really benefit of a wider angle and

situations where a short tele could be helpful.

 

As far as I know there are adapters made by Rollei - the wide mutar

and the tele mutar - which transform the 80mm in a ~55mm or a ~135mm.

Although I have never seen a picture made with such adapters, they

seem to have a good reputation. Bottom line: they're not easy to find

and each cost as much as another Rollei TLR in excellent conditions...

Speaking of, I know there are also Wide-Rollei and Tele-Rollei

cameras, but they sell for over 1000-1500?/$ when you find one...

 

Is there some solution to get a wider or shorter angle on a Rolleilfex

TLR without too much loss of definition and image quality? I realize

that often "quality" doens't mean "cheap", but I wouldn't really spend

too much money just for some "collector's item"...

 

Regards

I need to do some selective coating with liquid light but i'm finding

it near impossible without being able to see where the emulsion is.

Has anyone ever tried adding a small amount of water soluble food

coloring to liquid emulsion? Cyanotypes are easy because the liquid is

blue and therefore easy to see when coating, even under a dim

safelight. Any other ideas on how to make liquid light coating as easy

as cyanotype? Thanks!

You're right, but the Minolta A1 is compatible with cables of any polarity, as written in the instruction manual.

 

I solved the problem by buying this adaptor

http://www.pbase.com/digital_initiatives/image/25169818

which costed me much less than the original FS1100 (plus it has a PC sync socket embedded, which Minolta FS1100 hasn't).

 

Thank you for your help,

Fulvio

In fact I just need to trigger a flash connected to the camera. I work in full manual mode, so camera exposure and flash output are set separately. In other words: I'd use only the central contact (the biggest of the three), I don't care for the TTL pins. I cannot do this with the actual shoe, because is a 4pin Minolta own standard with a weird design.

Hi

 

I had a problem described in this thread

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00AOgF

 

I need to know it the FS 1100 adapter can work with a Minolta Dimage

A1 camera without problems. I will use this converter to have a

regular hotshoe in order to place an hot shoe/pc sync adapter on it to

connect the Minolta to a studio strobe. Of course, there camera has a

built-in PC socket, but it appears to be broken :-(

 

thanks

 

Fulvio

Hi

 

I was experimenting with some flash strobes and my Minolta A1. I

generally use the digital camera as a "polaroid machine" to check

light and composition, then I take the final pictures with a large

format camera. I connect the A1 with a PC sync cord to a flash and the

others with a remote light sensor. I've done this several times, since

I own the camera (a couple of months). Today I was using the camera as

usual, but suddenly the flash didn't fire anymore. Initially I thought

it was a sync cord failure, so I tried with two more different cords

of different brands. Still didn't work. I checked the flash units:

they're all perfectly working. In fact, the synchronization works fine

with other cameras. It is just with the Minolta that doesn't. It seems

that there some play or loose contact within the pc sync socket of the

camera. The camera alone works well and takes pictures normally. If I

connect it to a flash through the pc sync it won't make the flash

fire. I'm really upset... Is there anything I can try? I don't really

want to send the camera to customer service just for a PC sync

probably broken... I'm in Italy and this could take some time. I was

thinking as alternative to buy a FS 1100 hot shoe adapter and then

convert the hot shoe to a pc sync socket. This is indeed a ugly

solution, but I cannot see alternatives since Minolta cameras haven't

ordinary hot shoes... Is the FS 1100 adapter compatible with Digital

cameras? I know there's also a PCT-100 adapter which turns the hotshoe

directly into a Pc socket, but is more expensive than a FS 1100 +

ordinary hot shoe/pc sync adapter.

 

Fulvio

Hi

 

I've found a guy on ebay selling a Minolta RC 1000 remote control. It

is named just "RC 1000", not "RC 1000-L" or "RC 1000-S". Could be this

remote compatible with Minolta Dimage A1/A2 cameras?

 

thanks

Thank you all for the answers. But, in one word, there is a way to use the 240-420mm Symmar at 420mm on my Graflex camera? (maximum bellows extensione about 32cm)

I did it! I purchased a fisheye adapter ("Bower Titanium 0.42x") with some addictional stepping rings. On my Mamiya RB67 covers full frame (on a 90mm lens). It worked also on 4x5". Distorsion is quite evident, but that's all the fun about. As for quality, I still have to test it. But for 36 euros I would have nothing to complain anyway!

I'm planning to get a Schneider convertible lens. I own a field camera

with ~32cm maximum extension bellows. I'd like to have a Symmar 240mm

that can convert to 420mm... Question is: by removing the rear element

instead of the front element as suggest by Schneider, will I be able

to use the "converted" 420mm on my camera?

 

Are there other manufacturers that make convertible lenses other than

Schneider?

 

thanks

<p>

what do you think about these ones?</p>

<p>

Soligor:

http://i15.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/94/59/bc_1_b.JPG

</p>

<p>

Kenko:

http://medfmt.8k.com/bronauxfe3.jpg

</p>

<p>

Spiratone:

http://members.aol.com/mdolginova/myhomepage/images/fish1.jpg

http://images.auctionworks.com/fullView.asp?img=http://images.auctionworks.com/hi/48/48259/2_1872_1c.jpg

</p>

<p>

I think they're all old generation fisheye adapters, designed to be used on a normal lens... But I believe they were designed for 35mm and don't know if they're good on MF/LF too. And what if I use one of these on a wide angle lens instead a normal one?</p>

<p>

Do all of them have series VII mounting ring?</p>

<p>

for Harvey: which kind of fisheye have you used with your Bronica? I don't know if to get one of those old fisheye adapters or a newer one like the "titanium" (you'll find many of them on ebay).

</p>

bye

Hi,

 

I see there are many cheap fisheye adapters on ebay for 35mm and

digital compact cameras... I'm aware that most of them are crap. But

I'm thinking to buy one for my digital camera (Minolta Dimage A1) just

for fun. However, I own also a Mamiya 6x7 and a 4x5" camera. I'm

wondering if there's any of those adapter lenses can work in

conjunction with these system. I know that quality sucks, but I'm just

looking for some "holga" style shot with a very wide angle effect.

Usually these lenses have series VII mounting and are sold with an

adapter ring ranging from Series VII-37mm to Series VII-77mm... My MF

and LF lenses filter diameters consist mainly in 67mm and 77mm. So I

thnk I can attach the adapter to any lens I own. Question is: will

they work on lenses producing an image circle larger than 35mm?

 

thank you

<p>

Hi

</p>

<p>

I have the following problem with a Mamiya RB Sekor C 50mm 4.5 lens.

The lens works fine except for the floater. It is locked up in an out

of focus position. It may seem like it is working but it's not. </p>

<p>The lens was opened and there were 3 loose screws just allowing the

ring to turn, the lens floating inside didn't move correctly.

Tightening the screws properly, the ring doesn't turn anymore or it

releases for a few good turns but then is frozen solid. I guess the

floater helix is slightly damaged inside.</p>

<p>

Mamiya sells the replacement part for over 600$ but with that sum I

could get another 50mm used. Since this 50mm is very fine (the glass

is very clean), I'm not going to buy another or have the replacement.

I guess I could have the lens fixed if I could find another damaged

50mm but with a good floater. </p>

<p>

Otherwise, I could lock definitively the floater to a fixed position

and leave it there. Now, I'd use this lens to shoot mainly indoors

(architecture, indoor group portraits) plus some landscapes. Since I

won't focus it always to infinite I don't think leaving the floater

permanently to infinite position would be a good idea. What about

leaving it stuck below infinite? When I'll need to focus to infinite

is most probably because I'm shooting landscapes. In those cases I

will use a tripod and could close the diaphgram to f22-32 to achieve

enough DOF to overcome aberrations and correct the image sharpness.

Which could be a good position to lock the floater permanently for an

all-around use of the lens? </p>

<p>

Suggestions are welcome!</p>

I'm in.

 

Enrico tu dovresti essere di Genova, vero?

Thank you both for advises. I was referring to Mamiya RB lenses. However I'm not afraid having low contrast pictures, which I do like, but I always demand good definition from my lenses.

 

bye

Hi

 

I'm wondering if there is a way to determine the age of a Mamiya Sekor

C lens according to its serial number... I've heard there could be

some quality issues on the oldest Mamiya lenses, even on some of the

very early "C" ones... Is there any table I can look to know in which

year a lens has been manufactured? Does a similar rule applies to the

bodies and other components?

 

thank you

John, you're right! It is a copal 0 shutter. I got confused too :-)

 

thank you both

Hi!

 

I've recently bought a Grandagon 6.8 MC 4x5" lens (it is not the "N"

version, but still MC). I have a blank graflex lens board for it. But

I'm not sure it has a "copal 0" shutter. On the lens it is written

"copal 0.0"... Someone could help?

 

thanks in advance

Hi,

 

I do not understand which differencies, if any, are between the "N"

version of the Grandangon 90/6.8 and the non-"N" version. I see

they're both multicoated. How much is valuable a used Grandagon 90/6.8

MC "non N" lens? I'd intend to use such lens with a Graflex Super

Graphic camera. I'm also considering a 90/8 super angulon. Which would

you suggest?