oq

i heard from one guy that the apple and dell used the same screens for a while.. i don't know about that, but i know neither of them are great for prepress/photo work.

I have heard though that the photon together with, say, a macbeth is a good solution for the money. Personally I've used the 319 for a while and am quite happy with it. When I use the analogue connection I get some uneven shiftings in the screen, but on digital it works great.

Buying an Eizo would be wise if you jumped up their line a notch or two as IMHO the cg19 is pretty much the same standard as the 319.. mu opinnion is as it's their low-end solution, what you pay for there is their brand name more than the screen.

A tip though you might want to look up are the german Quato screens. Haven't had any first-hand experience with them but Ive heard that they're ok, and they seem to fit the price-range you're aiming at.

I've ran in to the same problem several times, last time was last week. That was a b&w photo with about 9 curve adjustment layers. It usually happens when I work with photos that need a lot of work and use many adjustment layers all doing major changes in themselves.

my best guess is that it's some averaging error in photoshop, but I really have no idea as I'm not by any means a coder..

What I do is quite simply to try to keep the amount of layers down. As I only use curve layers and maybe an occasional hue/saturation layer and I see it changes after mergin I simply add another curve layer to correct the change, as it often is quite uniform or within a 'hard-worked' area.

Hey,

Just replaced my stationary PC with a powerbook and just ran into a

problem. I have a screen attached to the PB wich I'm calibrating using

lacie's blue eye colorimeter.

What I'm wondering is, is it possible to also calibrate the PB screen

with the same blue eye? How? The software doesn't give me any answers

and I'm quite new to the macintosh environment (I got the pb four

hours ago) so I can't find any answers there either.

I've seen people running two calibrated screens side by side, but is

it possible with a PB monitor and a 319, using the blue eye 2

colorimeter?

Thanks /Fred

Hey!

I've been looking for a new monitor for a while and just found this

little thing on sale at a local store.

The other monitors I've been checking out are the lacie 321 and the

eizo cg19k, but I've never heard anything about this samsung before.

Now, just by checking the figures this samsung screen seems quite

sweet with a 4ms respone rate and 700:1 contrast ratio, 300cd/m2,

dvi, 1280x1024. And most of all, it costs about less than a third

the price of the other two. So what's the deal?

Does anyone have any experience with this screen? How well does it

calibrate? I mean, with tech specs that outperforms the other two

screens by the double, at a price level one third of the other

screens, where's the glitch? Does it catch fire after a week of

usage?

Please, if you guys have some experience with this screen, please

post it!

thanks /fredrik

Hey!

Just shot an efke kb25(135mm roll) and thought I'd develop it in

HC-110(H), thinking I had the times for it. Problem being, I forgot

the development time. I'm positive I've done it before, but can't

remember what time i used..

I tried searching around for info on this combination, but can't find

squat. Anyone here tried it? Anyone got times for it? Anyone got an

educated guess on a time for it?

Thanks!

/Fredrik

Hey!

I'm in the process of building a pinhole camera and am about to design

the actual pinhole/shutter.

A year or so ago I ran into a sort of pre-fabricated set of pinholes,

a slit with a couple of ready-to-use holes with different sizes.

Does anyone know where I can buy these? Who makes them?

thanks! Fredrik

thanks a bunch for all the answers!

..decided not to buy the polaroid back though. Seems like a useless thing to have as the polaroids each cost as much as an entire roll of film and i barely ever use 135mm in a studio. and as it seems the size of the polaroids make them pretty much useless to use for polaroid work.

anybody else found a use for this kind of thing?

Hey!

I just came over a guy via an ad selling a polaroid back for the F-1n

system. As I've never heard of one before, i'm just wondering if

anyone else has?

What's it worth and how does it work? are there polaroids still on

the market for it or have they been discontinued?

thanks! / Fredrik

Hey!

I spent yesterday shooting some enduro/cross racing for an assignment

due this thursday when something quite awful happened - the winder

screwed up.

I have a canon f1 new with a power winder, and as it seems the film

has been wound around the wrong spool - the middle one, in front of

the actual take up spool. As it is winded double, over itself, and I

can't figure out a way to unlock the spool in order to wind it

backwards, the only solution I can find is to actually cut up the

film and rip it out..

I've had the problem before, some six months ago, and back then I had

to cut up the film. I tried searching these forums as I recall

reading something about the problem earlier, but was unable to find

any information on the subject.

I've heard the problem arise when the film's to slack, but that

doesn't really solve my issue with the stuck film. Is it possible to

unwind the middle spool on the f1n, and if so, how??

Please help me on this one, I need the camera to be operational asap

and really don't have time to shoot the lost roll again. Surely this

problem must have happened to someone else before, and if anyone has

a solution for it, please help!

thanks!

/Fredrik Härenstam

Hey and thanks for the replys!

I just bought an olympus XA4 for 90 bucks (with flash unit). The condition is great, works and no visible flaws except that the battery chamber lock looks a bit worn.

My first impressions are that i'll most likely forget to set the focus more than once, and that one'll get kinda irritated at not knowing the shutter speed? Who else owns this kind of camera? any comments? :)

again, thanks!

Hey!

I hope you guys could help me out with the purchase of another

camera - a smaller and hopefully lighter one than the one i have

now. To give you an idea of what I'm looking for, i'm currently the

owner of a canon f-1 new system, which i really like, eventhough

it's quite a cumbersome burdon to carry around. Especially since i'm

doing army service atm. As having a 8kg camera around your neck

ain't an option, I'd hope that someone here had any ideas as to what

rangefinder-type, preferably second hand, camera one could buy, one

which can easily be chucked down a pocket if need be?

I'm saying rangefinder-type as i'd rather have a viewfinder than a

rangefinder, but for ~100-200 bucks there's not much choice, i

guess?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated! And thanks for the reply!

/Fredrik

odd, i've always done it clockwise ;)

anyway, i bought a new battery just yesterday and it all works great.. again sorry for not checking ;)

and about the film slack - thanks for the advice, i'll try to pay more attention the next time i load the thing!

hehe, thanks, yup, i ran into that site earlier, and i'm quite impressed! the site on mir.com had most of the info, but rollinger's site is a bit sharper ;)

and, uhm, sorry about not checking the camera battery.. almost forgot the camera had one ;)

still have the problem with the slack film though - don't if that's caused by the dead body battery, as i've never had the problem with the motor?

Hey,

i bought this canon AE Power WInder FN a while ago and i'm having

troubles with it. I bought of a lad who hadn't been using it, so i

actually got it in a as-new condition, in the box with warranty card

and all. My problem is that it locks up from time to time, ie, the

buttons doesn't respond, not even the shutter release on the camera

body, regardless if it's turned on or off. Now, the camera works

fine w/o the winder, and works fine with a motor drive, it's just

the power winder that's acting strange. To be honest, i have no clue

what's wrong. And, yes, i have tried new batteries ;)

Could it be that it's been unused for so long? Or that's it's too

cold outside (ie, below freezing)?

I can take one, perhaps two shots before it locks up. Then no

shutter releases work (the two on the winder nor the one on the

body). I'd greatly appreciate it if anyone had any thoughts on the

subject and is willing to share the same!

I'm experiencing another problem as well with the winder, which is

again nothing that's troubled me with the motor drive. I don't know

if it's caused by the film slacking, but the film has wound up and

got stuck on the roll in front of the actual film roll.. little bit

hard to explain, but the f1-new has three rolls inside, one with the

film canister, and one where the film winds onto, and one inbetween

which i presume the winder uses to transport the film. this is the

one that the film has a tendency to get stuck on. Any thoughts?

thanks!

hello.

I've searched round the web and a whole bunch of forums for months

now for some useful information on seperating the emulsion on RC

prints from the paper base. Probably i'm searching in all the wrong

places (which, if I am, would prove this post useless, as i've

searched these forums as well), but I can't say i've found anything

worthwile. yet.

I've heard some guys mention some funky acid-thingy which is

supposed to do the trick, but ironically as it seems, they always

seem to forget what it is, where one can get hold of it, and how one

is to use it.

The other method i've heard of is soaking the print in hot water for

3-4 minutes and then simply peel the emulsion off. Problem being,

I've had prints in boiling water for 30 minutes without the emulsion

being willing to peel off, and if it is, it's always keen on

bringing along a whole load of paper stuck on the back of it. Maybe

my water is the wrong kind of water? Or should i keep the print in

water, boiling it continuosly until the emulsion seperates from the

paper base? Does anyone have any suggestions? Has anyone been able

to lift the emulsion from an RC paper at all? If so, which paper,

and how? - I really want to know!

I'm not interested in polaroid transfers or liquid emulsion, i'm

simply wondering if one can seperate the emulsion from a RC paper

(or fiber if that's easier) from its paper base. Can it be done?

On another note, though not a completely different one, does anyone

know how Michal Macku does his 'gellage' work? What's the gelating

he's using? is it simply emulsion lifted from a polaroid or

whatever, or are there transperent, exposable, gelatin one can buy?

Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for the reply - i'd really

apreciate it if anyone knew anything on the topic and was willing to

share a piece or two of their wisdom!

/Fredrik Härenstam

hey!<br>

<br>

Just found a tilt-shift 35mm/2,8 in a local store. I've always wanted

to have the capabillity to tilt/shift, but I'm wondering if the lens

is worth the money?<br>

<br>

The price was around $800 and it was a B+, but what i'm basically

wondering is if one should buy it, rather then just save the money

for other equipment (as in a larger format.. as my bag presently

consists of a f1new, a 50, 135, and a 28.. although i have access to

medium format)?<br>

<br>

<br>

Now 800 might not sound a lot to you guys, but as i'm a student and

only charge film&coffee for the things I do.... it means i won't buy

anything else equipment-wise for a year :/<br>

<br>

<br>

So my question is, should I spend my savings on this lens, or bring

the day I move over to the large-format-tilt-shift-wonderland 6

months closer? :)<br>

<br>

<br>

would need some advice... ! :)

thanks!