pauli.peura

<p>Thank you for your quick responce.</p>

<p>The self timer works only partly. When I engage the self timer and try shooting, the self timer only goes up to about half way and stops there. If I help the lever just a little bit with my hand the timer runs happily and fires the shutter OK.</p>

<p>Argh,</p>

<p>of course it's the other way around. So the lens fires correctly only in the X-sync mode and NOT in the M-sync mode. Sorry for the hassle :).</p>

<p>-- Pauli</p>

<p>Hello all,</p>

<p>I was developing some film today when I noticed that one of the films had many frames that were not gotten light at all. I noticed that all the frames were the frames I had shot with my 80mm C T* Planar lens.<br /> After this I took my Hasselblad and tested it with the 80mm lens. I noticed that the the shutter didn't respond at all to the time-aperture-settings on the lens. But this was only until I happened to switch the lens's flash sync mode from X-sync to M-sync. With the M-sync mode selected, the shutter speeds seem to work. My 50mm C Distagon lens on the other hand works OK whatever the flash mode is, which is the way it should be I guess.<br /> The lens was CLA'd three years ago and it has been working well from the exposure result point-of-view. I don't own and haven't used any flashes with my camera so I actually can't say whether this "works-only-in-M-mode" thing has been going on all the time.</p>

<p>My question simply is that, would someone be able to say what might be going on inside the lens that would cause this behavior?</p>

<p>I guess the lens would be in need of service again, but on the other hand if I don't use flash I might just continue using the lens with the M-mode always selected?</p>

<p>-- Pauli</p>

<p>Thank you everyone so far for the insightful responses! :)</p>

<p>-- Pauli Peura</p>

<p>Without seeing these kind of things before I was too thinking about these air bubbles.<br>

But I wonder then why weren't these bubbles visible on all flat colored negatives or most of them, now I have about 3-4 / 12. And clearly the dots appear on frames number 12,11,10-9ish. These frames are closest to the center of the rolls so maybe there was not enough water moving (or tapping)...... Weird thing.<br>

Anyway I think that this calls for few test rolls of Plus-X 125 and developing those in ID-11 1+1.</p>

<p>Ronald wrote:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Frost free refrigerators and freezers go thru a heating & cooling cycle to evaporate the frost and a plastic bag is insufficient protection as there can be moisture present inside. If the film was inside the original foil wrapper, you would not have that problem.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This suggestion sounds very convinsing to me because of the long storage time of the films.<br>

Maybe Ilford FP4+ and HP5+ just react differently to the moisture present inside the fridge. I might just in case look through those negs with very careful eye too...</p>

<p>I wonder wheter presoaking the film would have helped in this case?</p>

<p>-- Pauli</p>

<p>Hello everybody.</p>

<p>I developed yesterday and today some 120 rolls of Kodak Plus-X 125 film.<br /> What I noticed after first batch was some random somewhat faint dots on<br /> even colored areas on the negatives. I have provided an example<br /> of the situation below. The image has been taken against my monitor screen<br /> with my small digital camera, so that is the reason why you can see stripes<br /> from the LCD screen on the picture. Anyway, when increasing the contrast<br /> in the picture, the dots can be clearly seen.<br /> For the developing I used:<br /> 1) Normal tap water<br /> 2) No presoaking of the film<br /> 3) Ilford ID-11 at 1:1 dilution for 8.5 minutes, T = 20 C.<br /> Two proper turns every minute.<br /> 4) Stop bath Classic STP 1+20 ~1 min, T = 20 C.<br /> 5) Fixer ADOFIX 1+9 ~4 min, T = 20 C<br /> 6) My normal wash at T = 20 C tap water.<br /> 7) Agepon water bath at the end.</p>

<p>A) ID-11 was mixed yesterday, according to Ilford's instructions<br /> at T = 40 C first part A, then part B. I bought the ID-11 power about<br /> two years ago and it has been stored at room temp after that.<br /> B) The films have been shot last autumn and have been kept in<br /> plastic bags in our fridge.</p>

<p>The negatives look otherwise good, but the dots are the problem. What I thought for the<br /> first time was that I hadn't turned the JOBO dev. tank properly for the first 30 sec when I started<br /> to develop the first batch. Also I suspected that I hadn't banged the dev. tank properly after<br /> every turning I made, so I made extra sure next time that I turned the tank every minute<br /> and that I did tap the tank properly always after turning to get rid of the possible bubbles on film.<br /> And after the second batch I noticed that I had again similar dots.<br /> <strong>I did use the same batch of ID-11 developer every time (3 different developments)</strong> , so that might<br /> also be the reason for this (= developer had something wrong )?<br /> After third batch now I did throw the ID-11 away and I might try to mix a new solution for the next try.</p>

<p>I can also say is that I have dots mainly only on frames 12,11,10 and maybe 9 on these<br /> negatives (6x6 frames). The last frames go first into the reel, so they are located closest to the<br /> middle of the reel. My JOBO tank takes 3 rolls at once, but I did not notice difference between<br /> rolls that had been on top or on the bottom of the tank.</p>

<p>I did also try searching for this problem for the old posts (and google generally), but I found<br /> only more obvious problems with dots (or let's say that dots were completely white / black).<br /> For example there surely has not been chemicals splashing on these negatives.<br /> I have mainly used Ilford's FP4+ and HP5+ films with the same developing techniques,<br /> and I have never seen anything similar from those films. For example The day before<br /> I developed about six rolls of FP4+ films with no problems (developer Microphen 1+1).</p>

<p>Any suggestions? Hopefully somebody would have experienced similar things.</p>

<p>-- Pauli Peura</p><div></div>

In eBay.de there is an auction of 80 rolls of Orwo's Pan100 film. I

haven't found too much information about this film, so if someone of

you has been using this film, I would be happy to hear your experiences.

I've read from somewhere that some Orwo's films are nearly identical

to Ilford's films. But I haven't found that kind of information

considering these particular films.

Here's the picture of the films:

http://netti.nic.fi/~mokle/28/Pan100.JPG

The films are dated 03/2005 so atleast they would be in good condition

is suppose...

Well, it seems that those films haven't lost their speed at all... Last morning it was really foggy here and I was shooting second roll of this NP15. I kept in mind that the film may have lost some speed and how I also should compensate the readings of my light meter. All that caused nearly all of my frames in that 2nd roll to be overexposed :(. I can clearly see now why do you learn from your mistakes...

Anyway few decent frames in the first roll, and if the frame is properly exposed the grain seems to be nearly non-exsistent. Attached picture is a crop from 2000dpi scan of 35mm neg done with Nikon Coolscan 8000ed.

The whole picture is here:

http://www.photo.net/photo/2472356&size=md

-- Pauli Peura<div></div>

I now developed this first roll of Orwopan NP15 - 10min@20C, using 1+50 Rodinal. It seems that there is a little bit loss of speed, because some frames seem to be a bit dark. Otherwise the the film seems to have developed just fine, I don't think there's any (at least not major) fogging, but I'll see that one after I've scanned the negs. Maybe I will put samples here too, in case someone is interested to see the results.

Thank-you again and happy shooting!

Good night (it seems) from Finland!

I got my hands on few rolls of old Orwopan NP15 (asa25) film in 35mm

format. It seems that the best before day in these was already in

1991, but that's not a problem =). I've been doing some searching

about developing this film in Rodinal, but I only came up with one

table where it says:

ORWO NP15 8,5min in R09 (1:40) and 25min in R09 (1:100).

If someone has own experiences with this film and Rodinal, I'd be more

than happy to hear about them. Or atleast if someone could say that

those times are about right.

Thanks and I'm off shooting the sunrise with Orwopan and Minolta!

-- Pauli Peura

Excuse me, but after reading this weeks SMP, I just have to fantasize

a little... =)

I sold my A-1 and my 50mm f1.8, 28mm f2.8, 135mm f2.8 lenses few

months ago because I had the opportunity to buy EOS D30 for under

$500. I quickly calculated in my head that I would save a lot of money

shooting digitally and not needing to pay for the development of

films. The D30 body is in itself really good one in my opinion, not

the kind of brick A-1 was, but clearly sturdy enough for my use. But

now I've entered the arena of plastic lenses. I'm only dreaming of

L-series lenses (like I'm dreaming now as I write this) or even little

better USM / IS ones. First I had EF 50mm f1.8 mkII, but I soon sold

that plastic thing. Now I'm shooting with Sigma 28-70mm f2.8 lens,

which is an improvement considering the construction. Manual focusing

with both of these lenses is still only a possibility not an option.

My point is that, having started with manual focus lenses, I would

more than gladly accept digital body which would use FD-series lenses

and would offer proper focusing screens. For me all-manual digital

body would be enough, AF is of course nice but one can shoot just as

happily with MF too. And the prices of FD lenses: 10 euros for FDn

50mm f1.8 in execellent condition isn't bad (well the prices surely

would rise like firecrackers at new years eve, but if I secretly knew

that the body is coming I would get them now =)).

Well, maybe there is changeable focusing screens for D30 (?), and

there already are FD -> EOS adapters, but I believe that they have

their limitations. Also the price for that "dream body" could well be

something really not for my budget, but still it's always fun to

imagine a little every now and then....

------

Pauli Peura

Thanks for responses!

Now I'll just have to think if I really need that lens...

Maybe 200mm f2.8 would be something to consider too, there seems to be quite a lot of them at the market.

I've seen few of these lenses sold at quite decent price (~EUR250). If

anyone has experience on this lens I would be happy to read about it.

I've found only couple short comments about that lens. It seems that

it's optical quality is a bit low ? I'm not looking for pro-quality

lens, but it would be nice to know something before deciding to buy

one.