nazir200_200

adi

i did'nt tried any of them up to now.

one thing i am sure ,the diametre of 5T close up filter is not 67 mm,but it is 62 mm.as there are many expert macro photographers are there in this forum i also expecting their replies.regards.nazir.

which lense you are using with your camera?

if it is a D type af nikkor ,the camera settings should be in ttl mode,the flash settings should be in ttl (matrix balenced ttl,or in normal ttl )mode ,the zoom head will automatically change according to the focal length of the zoom lens.

dear friends...

these are two options in front.if u were in my place ,which one you will choose?i am living in a middle east country where the availability of used lenses very rare...here the price difference between sigma and nikkor is approximately 400$.but i like the versatility of 70-180 micro zoom nikkor...i would like to know the comparison of optical qualities of both lenses.

mainly i am planning to use these lenses for the macro of flowers,insects,etc...thanx and regards.

kevin..

i got the same mistake as yours for my brother"s wedding party and got

more than enough scoulding from my relatives for the ugly photos which i had made.

the second time for my cuosins marriage party i had used the print film 200 iso and 400 iso (konica centuria) and setting the aperture

between 4 to 6.7 most of the time,and f8 for the portraits at the close distance around 2 to 3 meters.i didnt used the bounce flash

or matrix metring any where instead the centre weighted metering and

aperture priority or manual mode ...the results were more pleasing

and attractive.if you have more flash power and providing a reflctive

white cieling at 2.5 to 4 meters only u could try those techniqs u tried effectively.remember one thing the matrix metering is suitable for out door photography were the lighting levels on the subject and the surroundings are more or less uniformly distributed.then it will give a nice fill flash effect.

happy shooting

thanks friends....

the N'version of mine is only i bought 1 month before.(it was mint)

the first roll of negative film came out...realy very very sharp..

with pleasing contrast.without any exageration the N version is better than the D TYPE which i have already.the flash pictures with my sb 28

were came out perfectly well balenced.(realy i could'nt find out any edge for D version for its D METERING!).

please tell me the letter" N" stands for what?

(this lens is apparently a new version).

how's the optical quality...just same as the D or non D version?

any input is highly appreciated.

thanx and regards.

my camera is f80.film was fuji provia 100 iso.the same day i took some snaps of a waterfall (approximately 100 meter away from the camera)

with my 70-300 af.D-ED NIKKOR.with the same filter came out some what

ok...without any under exposure or vigneting.i understand that the

angle of view of the lense have an effect with this polariser filter.s i am right?

friends ......

last time my landscapes shot with 20 mm.nikkor af.2.8 D.with hoya

circular polariser filter ..all of them came out either underexposed

or ,with severe vigneting.fortunately i took some of the shots without

the filter were appeared nice and fine.the sky was little cloudy but

plenty of evenly distributed scattered sun light.as i have no scaner

yet i could not post any snaps here.what happened with my pictures?

is there any exposure compensation needed when using this filter?

mainly i use matrix metering and aperture priority.

some shots were manualy focused and some of them AF.

I expect your valuable tips,...thanx and regards.

thanx.friends.

after all its a great forum enriched with so many great photographers who are willing to help the new comers like me at any doubts.

thanx again

my friend bought this non D .version of this af lense for $75.from a

used camera shop in japan.can i use this lense on my f 80.?

is there any incompatibility matters other than matrix metering?

thanx.

<P>

<I>Apparently we are talking about an early 50mm/f1.8 AF lens before 1992 when the AF-D version was introduced. -- Shun Cheung</I>

i am a film camera user .now i want to buy a good digital camera which will be suitable for candid ,people,landscape,and closeup photography.

my budget around 500 to 600 dollars

i am almost ignorant about the digital world ...so

kindly suggest ?

mr.shaman...

ha.ha.ha...well done..you just ignited the thread of fire works.

i am sure that now you are really confused.

i have f80 now.(i am in photography since last 5 years).i started with

minolta autofocus..by the time i felt i need some creativity..then turned to pentax mz ..then to fm2..(it was a gem ..which will force u to learn and unfortunately it was lost during travel.for 1 year i didnt had a camera...finally now with f80.

i have only 2 words for you.

autofocus slr are like battery driven or spring driven toy cars..most of the time the child who plays with that have no controls......while

manual focus slrs are tools which will stimulates your ideas and will learn you the aspects of photography snap by snap.

when you are become more familiar with the basics by experience

then you could think about these completely automated bodies.(i have no complaints about my f80's features.but...that doesn"t mean everything about auto focus cameras are acceptable)

decide indipendly...enjoy shooting..nazir

bryan ..

sorry ..for my misunderstanding about f stops.

thanx for correcting me.

steve ...i think ...bryans advice is more usefull for you.

have good photography..nazir

steve..

if your cameras exposure meter shows 1/125 at f8 as the proper exposure

for a scene..you have choices to bracket the shot like these:

keeping aperture unchanged at f8 you can take one snap at 1/90speed(over exposed by 1 f stop),and another snap at 1/180(under exposed by 1 f stop).keeping the shutter speed unchanged at 1/125 you can take one snap at f5.6(over exposed by 1 f stop)and another snap at f 11(under exposure by 1 stop)..this method is called the exposure bracketing.

in your n80 there is a function -auto exposure bracketing-(go through the manual)..you could even bracket the exposure by 1/2 f stop also.

now you may have another doubt ..why exposure bracketing?

the fact is that..in many cases the proper exposure may not be the best one..the one with little under or over exposed may be more attractive and mind catching..

i expect this would help you little..nazir

chuck ..thank u again..

i know close up lense..but not diopters.(i can see your laugh now )i got a clear idea now.

since i had;nt pay much attention to this part ..sorry for my ignorance.

regards..nazir

thanks all of you..dear freinds............david...

chuck,richard,and jemini.yes i have a 300 mm..but when i use 5T, OR 6T

diopter with this slow lense..will it become again slow?any how i shall try that option.

jemini ..there are no outlets selling tokina lense ..here in dubai.

since i own an f80..there is limitation in use with AI,AIS.lenses.

from all of your;s usefull and inspiring advice,and comparing my pocket ,now my mind towards 5T,OR 6T DIOPTERS,

tamron 90mm,or micro nikkor 105 mm.thanx a lot..nazir

i wish to buy a lense which can be used both for macro and portrait

snaps.whether its a zoom or prime ..no matter.

i know there are

24-85 g afs,24-85 2.8-4 d,28-105d.af,105mm 2.8 micro nikkor,

sigma 105mm.2.8d,tamron 90mm.2.8d af,and so on...

my budget is maximum 600$.i am expecting the great and

valuable advice from this forum.thanx in advance.nazir

up to now i am not familiar with online purchasing of anything..especially camera and lenses.because i am too much obsessive on the quality of the product i buy.

i have 4 lenses now.20 mm.af nikkor 2.8 d,sigma 28-70 2.8d ex,

nikkor 70-300 d ed.4-5.6 af.,nikkor 50mm 1.8 d af.

all of them are apprx. 3 year old.

before 7 months ,i travelled to kerala(southern state of india with tropical climate and lush greenery) and stayed 3 months.

i had to use many times my lenses in rain and thunder showers in the

forest and mountains.after each nature trial i used to dry my equipments in the zero watt bulb heat in a chamber.(i dont know its the right way,but no other option)

after coming U.A.E.one day i found that the sigma 28-70 mm af found affected fungus.it was some where in one of the inner element.

but still the picture qlty.before and after fungus does not seems any defference.

then i used to expose this lense in morning sun rays by opening the aperture wide with hands inorder to prevent the spreading of fungus.

one of my friend told that the exposure to direct sunlight will kill the fungus but the dead strains become more opaque than before.so this could affect the transperancy of the affected glass element.

so now same like u i allso need someother,s valuable advise in this regard.thanx..nazir

dear one

i have one sigma 28-70 2.8 ex-d lense.

for the last 3 years i am using this extensively.

the build quality is very poor..and the focusing ring is not smooth in manual mode.about color rendition and tone..sencere to the fact ..its average only when compared to 20 mm. nikkor af.2.8(which is also in my kit).try some used nikkor or the new 24-85g or afs version .

i think this will help you.thx